We met Chef Julien Royer at the 2020 City Meals on Wheels, an organization supporting homebound, elderly New Yorkers through hot-meal deliveries and companionship, at the annual fundraising gala at Restaurant Daniel hosted by Chef Daniel Boulud.  Joyer was a guest chef-- serving up verdant king crab and nashi pear and Botan ebi taco amongst other delicacies. 

Chef Julien Royer is the Chef and Owner of Odette in Singapore and Louise in Hong Kong. In 2019, Odette was awarded the highest distinction of 3 Michelin stars by the Michelin Guide, and is one of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants by S.Pellegrino as well as a member of Les Grande Tables du Monde. Today, we sit down with the Michelin-Star Chef and he gives us his guide to Singapore.

Where are you from and where do you live now? How did you find yourself in Singapore?                                                             I was born in Cantal, France, a small town in the Auvergne region, which is very rich in agriculture. My family had a small farm where we grew most of our own produce and livestock. We lived humbly, but we always ate very well.

Throughout my career as a chef, I’ve been blessed with many opportunities to travel the world--working in the French West Indies, Polynesia, and London before settling in Singapore, which has been home for over a decade now. Initially, I didn’t plan on settling down here, but over time I came to realize what an inspiring place Singapore is – a gateway to the diverse cultures and cuisines in Asia with access to quality produce from all over the world.

How often do you visit France? What do you miss most? I make it a point to visit home at least once a year. I miss my family and the countryside – the simplicity and living closely with nature, and my mom’s cooking.

Who were your mentors? One of my early mentors was Chef Michel Bras. He instilled in me a deep respect for the integrity and purity of each ingredient in every dish. He also taught me the importance of building a strong team – he created a culture of mutual respect within the team, valuing everyone from top to bottom.

Maître Cuisinier de France Bernard Andrieux is someone else I regard as a mentor, he really helped me strengthen my foundation in French cuisine. 

How did you meet Chef Daniel Boulud and become involved with City Meals? I met him when he was in Singapore, visiting his restaurant in Marina Bay Sands, and have since kept in touch.

Your grandmother influenced your cuisine as well as the name of the restaurant. Did she have a signature dish or is there a dish on the menu inspired by her cooking? My grandmother, Odette, was a fantastic cook. I loved spending time with her in the kitchen, helping out as she prepared meals for our family each day. The restaurant is a tribute to her and her philosophy; she taught me how the most remarkable dishes can come from the simplest, purest ingredients and instilled in me the utmost respect for seasonality and produce. Our menu evolves in cadence with the seasons, working with produce at the peak of its quality, which provides tempo to the dining experience.  

Art and design are an integral part of the ethos of Odette, especially as it is located in the National Gallery. Were you always interested in this intersection? We envisioned Odette as a timeless destination in the heart of the city. At the time, the National Gallery of Singapore was in two majestic heritage buildings and had just been restored. It’s simply such an enchanting space, and I knew at once that this is where I wanted Odette to be. We built everything at Odette around my grandmother – the design, artwork, and uniforms were all carefully considered to embody simplicity and soft femininity.

We worked with Sacha Leong from Universal Design Studio, who designed a space that was the antithesis of traditional fine dining-- one that was feminine, modern, warm, inviting, and embodied the hospitality values that she instilled in the family, and local artist Dawn Ng who created a body of work called “THE THEORY OF EVERYTHING,” exploring my approach to produce and the visual beauty of raw ingredients from our kitchen, which informed many touchpoints in the experience.

Odette is located in the National Gallery of Singapore. Do you ever find inspiration in the halls of the museum or have favorite rooms/works of art? I wish I had the time! The National Gallery of Singapore is an incredible intersection of art, culture, and history in the pulse of the city; a reflection of Singapore’s rich diversity and heritage. We draw inspiration from all around; from produce, flavors, our travels, and the people we meet.  

SINGAPORE CITY GUIDE

Favorite hotels? I really like the Raffles Hotel and the Warehouse Hotel in the heart of the city. Both hotels are unique in their own ways and have a rich history behind them. I’d pick Capella for a get-away and a bit of a holiday feel while still being on the island. The lush greenery and sounds of the sea make for the perfect spot for some R&R. 

Favorite restaurants or locals-only spots? For authentic French fare and rustic classics, Brasserie Gavroche, Esora for kappo-style cuisine, Candlenut for Peranakan and Naked Finn for impeccable seafood. I also really enjoy local food, especially chicken rice from Maxwell Food Centre and char kway teow at Zion Road. 

My favorite local spot is Tanjong Rhu Pau in Geylang. I believe they make the best “paus” in Singapore – a traditional soft steamed bun filled with different ingredients from roasted meat to salted egg yolk – handmade the traditional way to this day for generations. It’s one of the few things I would gladly queue for, and I will always recommend it to friends when they visit Singapore.

Favorite shops? When I have the time, I like to visit Haji Lane and Arab Street areas. I’ve noticed that if you have the time to really explore, you can find some unusual and eclectic pieces.

Favorite sights to see in Singapore? Cultural or otherwise? Singapore is a very vibrant city. Even though it is a small country, it has plenty to offer. I love the Civil District where Odette is located, as well as the easy access to get lost in nature along the trails of Bukit Timah Nature Reserve, and the likes of Mount Faber and Green Corridor.

Typical weekend activity? Breakfast with my wife, Agnes. We especially love places with alfresco seating where we can relax and soak in the morning sun. In the afternoon, maybe a game of tennis. If there’s a Paris Saint-Germain (PSG) match at night, I usually get together with some friends to watch the match and support our team.

Best day or weekend trip from Singapore? Pulau Ubin, a small island about a 30-minute boat ride away from the mainland where you can find affordable freshly caught seafood, take a hike, or cycle around the island. It's a perfect day trip for a nice getaway in nature. 

Text: Veronica H. Speck Photo: © Odette