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San Antonio

“Prize Trotter” by Slim Aarons, 1960

San Antonio has a rich colonial heritage. The Alamo, an 18th-century Spanish mission preserved as a museum, marks an infamous 1836 battle for Texan independence from Mexico. Following the San Antonio River, the miles-long River Walk is a landmark pedestrian promenade lined with cafes and shops. Here is our guide to San Antonio, Texas.

STAY

HOTEL EMMA In San Antonio, design studio Roman and Williams has applied its signature rugged yet refined aesthetic to a former 19th-century brewery reborn as the inviting Hotel Emma. Thick concrete beams, exposed pipes, and leftover machinery give the space an industrial cool that’s softened by vintage leather sofas, lively tilework floors, and loads of antique carpets. The magic is in the mix, according to the firm’s principals, Robin Standefer and Stephen Alesch: “This was a place where luxury met the primitive and untamable on the edge of the prairie, and we think it still holds that energy.” 136 E Grayson St, San Antonio, TX 78215; thehotelemma.com

DRINK | DINE

LA GLORIA La Gloria serves Mexican street food is found at this vibrant cantina with outdoor seating and scenic views. 100 E Grayson St, San Antonio, TX 78215; chefjohnnyhernandez.com/la-gloria-pearl

OCHO Pan-Latin fare, mojitos, and old-world charm are found in this chic riverside restaurant and lounge in the Hotel Havana. 1015 Navarro St, San Antonio, TX 78205; bunkhousehotels.com/hotel-havana

SUPPER A contemporary all-day restaurant offering elevated farm-to-table American plates in bright surrounds in the Hotel Emma. Try the raspberry-ricotta pancakes, chorizo Scotch eggs, and millionaire's bacon (smoked bacon covered in brown sugar sauce). 136 E Grayson St, San Antonio, TX 78215; supperatemma.com

TAQUERIA CHAPALA JALISCO The best breakfast tacos with red sauce in San Antonio! 1902 McCullough Ave, San Antonio, TX 78212; taqueria-lago-de-chapala-jalisco

PANCHOS & GRINGOS A classic diner. Order ‘The Mess'. 900 Nolan St, San Antonio, TX 78202

THE PEARL FARMERS MARKET A huge weekened outdoor marketplace hosting local produce, meat, and cheese producers, live music, and cooking demos. Try Ming's Thing, a vendor that sells Asian noodles and steamed pork buns. 312 Pearl Pkwy, San Antonio, TX 78215; atpearl.com/weekend-market

CURED A buzzy, rustic-chic restaurant serving charcuterie-focused New American cuisine and craft cocktails. 306 Pearl Pkwy UNIT 101, San Antonio, TX 78215; curedatpearl.com

BOTIKA A Peruvian and Asian-influenced restaurant that has a full sushi bar, but also a wok-driven menu with noodles and fried rice. 303 Pearl Pkwy #111, San Antonio, TX 78215; botikapearl.com

POLLOS ASADOS LOS NORTENOS A simple venue serving up Mexican-style grilled chicken and parrilladas, plus burgers, sides & desserts. 4822 Walzem Rd, San Antonio, TX 78218; polloslosnortenos.com

TACOS EL REGIO A late-night taco truck for tacos and tortas. tacoselregiosatx.com

MK DAVIS An old-school spot from 1956 serving chicken-fried steak, Tex-Mex favorites, and frosted schooners of beer.1302 N Flores St, San Antonio, TX 78212

SMOKE SHACK BBQ A traditional Texas barbecue spot. smokeshacksa.com

THE ESQUIRE One of the oldest bars in Texas serving inspired drinks and pub food in vintage surrounds. The setting is perfect—right off the River Walk. 155 E Commerce St, San Antonio, TX 78205; esquiretavern-sa.com

STERNEWIRTH A swanky bar set in a historic cellar serving classic cocktails, craft beer, select wines, and bar bites, located within Hotel Emma. 136 E Grayson St, San Antonio, TX 78215; thehotelemma.com/culinary/sternewirth

LOCAL COFFEE Buzzy coffee house offering a changing selection of brews in an intimate, industrial-chic setting. 302 Pearl Pkwy, San Antonio, TX 78215; localcoffee.com

ESTATE COFFEE Bright, modern cafe with a few seats, pouring craft coffee & espresso behind a dark wood bar. 1320 E Houston St a101, San Antonio, TX 78205; estatecoffeecompany.com

TUCKER'S An old-time bar, operating since 1948, offering burgers cooked on-site along with live soul and R&B acts. 1338 E Houston St, San Antonio, TX 78205; tuckerskozykorner

ART | ACTIVITIES | CULTURE

THE ALAMO The Alamo is a historic Spanish mission and fortress compound founded in the 18th century by Roman Catholic missionaries in what is now San Antonio, Texas, United States. 300 Alamo Plaza, San Antonio, TX 78205; thealamo.org

RIVER WALK The River Walk was created in the 1930s and gradually became a haven for tourists. Today, it's a rallying point for the city's community spirit. In recent years, when the authorities drained the river and scrubbed the River Walk clean, San Antonians even elected an annual Mud King and Mud Queen, based on who raised the most money for one of the local riverkeeping groups. thesanantonioriverwalk.com

RUIZ-HEALY ART Founded in San Antonio, TX in 2006 Ruiz-Healy Art represents an international roster of artists and places emphasis on Latinx and Latin American artists, as well as working with prominent Texas-based artists. 201-A East Olmos Drive, San Antonio, Texas 78212; ruizhealyart.com

BLUE STAR ARTS COMPLEX Home to San Antonio's longest-running contemporary art space, the complex also features a varied collection of arts venues, shops, and studios. 1414 S Alamo St, San Antonio, TX 78210; bluestarartscomplex.com

SAN ANTONIO MUSEUM OF ART An art museum in Downtown San Antonio spanning 5,000 years of global culture, and housed in the historic former Lone Star Brewery on the Museum Reach of the San Antonio River Walk, which is worth seeing just for its beautiful location and historic grounds. 200 W Jones Ave, San Antonio, TX 78215; samuseum.org

PAPER TIGER A live music venue. 2410 N St Mary's St, San Antonio, TX 78212; papertigersatx.com

JAZZTX A live music venue and restaurant offering refined Texan cuisine, craft cocktails, and draft beer. 312 Pearl Pkwy Building 6, Suite 6001, San Antonio, TX 78215; jazztx.com

THE STRIP A quarter-mile stretch of about seven bars — the local version of Austin's 6th Street. thestripsa.com

ENCHANTED ROCK Located about an hour and a half north of San Antonio, and a great place to go hiking, rock climbing, or stargazing on a clear night.

PEDERNALES FALLS A hiking spot with natural pools for cooling off.

JACOB'S WELL A popular swimming spot, this creek features an artesian spring and underwater caves where you can SCUBA or jump off cliffs and swim.

SHOP

TWIG BOOK SHOP One of the state's most successful independent bookstores. 306 Pearl Pkwy #106, San Antonio, TX 78215; thetwig.com

Text: Veronica H. Speck Photo: Slim Aarons, © Getty Images