Annamaria Brezna | Dolina Santa Fe
From left: The lobby of El Rey Court; Dolina chef Annamaria Brezna O’Brien. Mary Robnett for Departures Magazine
Dolina Cafe and Bakery opened in Santa Fe in the summer of 2017. Owner Annamaria Brezna O’Brien’s blend of Slovakian dishes, American/New Mexican favorites, and baked goods quickly made Dolina (Slovak for valley) a favorite destination for breakfast and lunch. Today, we sit down with the Chef and discuss how she fell in love with Santa Fe and her favorite things to do in the city…
Where are you from and where do you live now? I’m from a small charming spa town called Piestany, in Slovakia. Now I live in one of my favorite places in the U.S., Santa Fe, New Mexico.
How did you find yourself in Santa Fe? Growing up in Slovakia, I was often encouraged by my mother to leave and explore the world. I wanted to learn English and I felt the best way to truly learn was by moving to the US and really immersing myself in the culture, and the mentality of the people, while getting to explore the landscape. After living in a few different places on the East Coast, I found myself wandering out West. A friend recommended that I stop by Santa Fe and spend some time here, so I did. I fell in love with the amount of nature and beautiful skies almost instantly.
What do you miss most about Slovakia? The most, I miss my people. Close family and friends that I grew up with. I try to bring them here for visits when they can, but it never feels like nearly enough time before they have to head back home. I also miss the colorful culture of my country, the traditional celebrations, music, and dance, that are so deeply embedded in me.
First thing you do when you are back home? I visit my grandmother, who is getting to be a little too fragile to come and visit me. I connect with her over a cup of Turkish coffee and a good meal.
How did you come up with the idea for Dolina? I have always worked in the restaurant industry, and I love cooking, especially baking since I was very young. My ex-husband and I opened a restaurant together here in Santa Fe where I started spending more and more time in the kitchen, playing with different recipes and techniques. I discovered my love for early mornings, in the kitchen filled with the sweet aroma of fresh pastries and cakes. After we separated, I took a few years off, and focused on my then young children. I also used this time to travel around and to get to know places like the Bay area, where I gained a lot of inspiration and appreciation for local and authentic food made with fresh ingredients. Tasting delicious foods inspired by different cultures of the world, I started thinking about opening a place based on the flavors of my homeland and foods I missed eating the most.
Where does the term Dolina come from? The word Dolina means Valley. It reminds me of Slovakia’s landscape, which consists mostly of hills and valleys. The word itself is kind of iconic and often used in traditional songs, as it represents the most fertile areas of the landscape. It’s where plants and trees grow, water flows, and animals feed. For me, now, it represents a place where people can meet, find nourishment and connect.
Do you have a signature dish or baked good? We bake with a lot of poppy seeds and walnuts, which are very traditional flavors for Slovakian baking, along with tvaroh (sour curd cheese) and lekvar (thick plum preserves). My personal favorite is Orechovnik, a yeasted dough bread with a swirl of walnut and cinnamon filling. At Dolina, we make our french toast using this bread, served with warm blueberries and maple syrup.
What is your favorite thing on the menu? Right now, in the cold months, I gravitate towards eating soups. We have my grandmother’s chicken and vegetable soup, made with a bone broth cooked overnight, served with kohlrabi, and other nourishing vegetables, and halushky (Slovakian Spatzle-like dumplings)
Daily uniform? I’m very much a denim and T-shirt kind of girl. Big comfy boots, colorful socks, and a jacket, if needed. Practical and most of all, comfortable.
Where do you dream of traveling to next? After this slow cold winter, probably somewhere warm. Italy, Spain, or Hawaii.
What are you watching or reading? I just saw a lovely documentary called My Octopus Teacher. A beautiful film about one's connection to nature. Because of the current situation, a few films have been held back, like Wes Anderson’s new film The French Dispatch. I’m excited to see it when it comes out. Being somewhat forced to slow down, I’ve found myself sitting on my porch and reading more. I read a few books from Colson Whitehead, starting with The Nickle Boys, then I moved onto Caste by Isabel Wilkerson, and now I’m making my way through Barack Obama’s A Promised land, which serves as a good reminder that we are surrounded by kind and knowledgeable people, that are trying to do good in the world.
Who or what inspires you? Strong focused people with good hearts.
What’s next for you? One of the reasons I love my work is that there is always room to grow. New seasons, new ingredients, new recipes. Also, new ways of doing things, as the world around us is constantly changing. Right now I’m playing with some new spring dessert recipes and exploring preserves, as fruits will be coming into the season soon.
Santa Fe City Guide
What are your favorite hotels? The Parador Hotel - historical farmhouse property, that operates as a hybrid hotel and a nonprofit artist residency, centrally located in downtown Santa Fe.
El Rey Court- an old iconic southwest motel, with a clean modern design, great mezcal bar with live music on the weekends, charming pool, and occasional pizza pop up dinners.
What are your favorite restaurants, bars, and cafes (besides Dolina)? Joseph’s Culinary Pub Geronimo La Choza Black Bird Cafe
What are your favorite museums or galleries? Shiprock Gallery. NuArt
Best shopping destinations or boutiques? Spirit Standard and Strange Red River Mercantile Santa Fe Vintage Visvim
What are your favorite activities to do in Santa Fe? Hiking, biking, soaking at Ten Thousand Waves, going to the farmers market and the local flea markets (EL Museo Cultural).
Best day or weekend trips from Santa Fe? Taos, Gorge Bridge, The Love Apple, Record Store, Chocola, Devisadero Trail, San Francisco de Asis church in Ranchos de Taos, Harwood Museum of Art, Historical Courthouse with modernist style murals. Lake Abiquiu, Georgia O’Keeffe’s Home and Studio, Echo Canyon, Chama River
Best hikes? Picacho Peak - in town, short but steep with beautiful views of Santa Fe.
Atalaya - Starts at the St. Johns College parking lot, about a 3-4 hour hike with beautiful views of the town and the valley. Bring plenty of water!
Tsankawi Ruins - part of the Bandelier National Monument, about an hour drive from Santa Fe, close to Los Alamos. Easy loop with beautiful views, caves, and petroglyphs.
Best place to ski? Santa Fe Ski - good for all level skiers.
Sipapu - great family mountain for beginners and intermediate skiers.
Taos - has smaller hills for beginners to learn on, but is especially known for its steep and challenging parts with the ‘no easy way down’ signs.Locals only spots?
What do you recommend first-time visitors do? Hike up the mountain, on the way down soak at Ten Thousand waves Japanese Spa, have a beautiful dinner at Geronimo on Canyon Road, go and visit some Native ruins and petroglyphs, and leave the pottery shards behind.
Text: Veronica H. Speck Photo: Mary Robnett for Departures Magazine