Budapest
Széchenyi Thermal Bath
Budapest, Hungary’s capital, is bisected by the River Danube. Its 19th-century Chain Bridge connects the hilly Buda district with flat Pest. A funicular runs up Castle Hill to Buda’s Old Town, where the Budapest History Museum traces city life from Roman times onward. Trinity Square is home to the 13th-century Matthias Church and the turrets of the Fishermen’s Bastion, which offer sweeping views.
STAY
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL GRESHAM PALACE Completed in 1906 as the immense office of England’s Gresham Life Assurance Company and named after the founder of London’s Royal Exchange, the grand Art Nouveau palace is located across from the Széchenyi Chain Bridge. The lobby and bar feature stained-glass windows, intricate ironwork, and a marble staircase—in addition to updates like an infinity pool and world-class spa, where many treatments call for products made using the city’s famous thermal waters. A repeated motif of the building’s interiors is a love heart, reputedly because the original designer was in love when he created his masterpiece; and this love is reflected in the attention to detail of the modern-day hotel, from the exquisite Múzsa cocktail bar to the refined and elegant rooms and suites. Széchenyi István tér 5-6; fourseasons.com/budapest
HOTEL KEMPINSKI CORVINUS Among the first international hotels to open in Budapest, the Kempinski Hotel Corvinus celebrated 30 years in 2022, and a testament to its appeal are the many staff members who have been there since its debut. Unlike newer hotels that have made their home in exquisitely restored period buildings, the Kempinski is purpose-built, but its curving interior shapes filled with the hotel’s Hungarian art collection and redesigned by London-based MKV Design in 2013, who are also responsible for the Matild Palace’s sublime reincarnation, still feel contemporary. For dining, guests can choose from the hotel’s signature ÉS Bisztró for Hungarian classics and specialities from the grill, Asian fusion from Nobu or four more restaurants, bars, and cafes, while Budapest’s iconic shopping street, Fashion Street is just a step away. Recently renovated rooms with cool, contemporary colours and brass, gold, and rich wood accents look out onto the Budapest Eye and beyond it, the dome of St. Stephen’s Basilica. Erzsébet tér 7-8; kempinski.com/en/hotel-corvinus-budapest
ANANTARA NEW YORK PALACE Formerly known as Boscolo, Anantara NewYork Palace is a 185-room Autograph Collection Hotel, which dates back to the late 19th century, when it first opened as the Hungarian headquarters of New York Life Insurance Company. The Art Nouveau-meets-Baroque-meets-Renaissance building was painstakingly restored in 2006 by a powerhouse of architects and designers: Maurizio Papiri, Adam D. Tihany, Massimo Iosa Ghini, and Simone Micheli. The hotel is best-known for the fabulous excess of Rococo columns, chandeliers and frescoed ceilings that is its New York Café, an early 20th-century literary haunt with frescoes and columns that after World War II devolved into a sporting goods shop. It remains a timeless spot for an ice cream sundae. Erzsébet krt. 9; anantara.com/en/new-york-palace-budapest
PÁRISI UDVAR HOTEL BUDAPEST An expression of the golden age of early-20th century Budapest, complete with stained glass, ceramics, and endlessly intricate patterns and sculptural details, the vertiginous and breath-taking atrium of the Párisi Udvar or Parisian Court is a masterpiece of art nouveau extravagance that was reopened to the public as a luxury hotel in 2019 after over 85,000 hours of painstaking restoration work. Rooms are a model of restrained modern elegance mixed with classical lines, where cool colors provide respite from the riot of detail of the historic building’s public areas. In the evening, the hotel’s café transforms into a champagne bar offering over fifty bottles, with 20 available by the glass and when you are suitably infused with bubbles, Lajos Lutz’s Brasserie offers faithful and delicious Hungarian specialties and brasserie classics with wine pairings. Petőfi Sándor u. 2-4; hyatt.com/en-US/hotel/hungary/parisi-udvar-hotel
CORINTHIA HOTEL Of all the hotels in this list, the Corinthia is the only one, bar the Kempinski, that began its existence as a hotel. The Grand Hotel Royal Budapest, as it was called, in its heyday of the early 20th century hosted stars such as Josephine Baker, who performed in the hotel’s Orfeum cabaret. It has served more recently as the inspiration for Wes Anderson’s Oscar-winning The Grand Budapest Hotel. A vast establishment created from three adjacent 19th-century buildings with the original side streets between them transformed into lofty glassed atriums, the Corinthia is perhaps most famed for its beautifully restored Royal Spa. The spa was originally opened in 1888, and was saved from the ignominious fate of being converted into a multi-story carpark. Guests can swim or bask in saunas and hot tubs surrounded by columns and period tilework. Equally impressive is the huge cream and gilded ballroom, once the venue of Budapest’s first cinema. For gourmets, the hotel has two fine-dining restaurants. Erzsébet krt. 43-49; corinthia.com
MATILD PALACE One of a matching pair of neo-Baroque fin de siècle palaces built on the orders of Princess Clotilde of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha, the wife of Archduke Joseph Karl, and protected by UNESCO. Home to the first Spago restaurant by Wolfgang Puck in Europe, already recommended for a Michelin star, the Matild also features a rooftop bar with panoramic views, and an Art Nouveau café. For a unique experience book the extraordinary three-story tower suite, with 360-degree views of Budapest and the Danube that will stay with you. Váci u 36; marriott.com/en-us/hotels/budlc-matild-palace-a-luxury-collection-hotel-budapest
KOZMO HOTEL SUITES & SPA The Kozmo building was Europe’s second-largest telecommunications center in the 1920s. Located on a leafy square just outside Budapest’s Palace District and within walking distance of the Dohány Street Synagogue and Great Market Hall. The tallest building in the area, expansive terraces furnished with sofas to sprawl on offer panoramic views of the tiled rooftops of Budapest from the hotel’s many suites. Horváth Mihály tér 17; kozmohotelbudapest.com
BRODY HOUSE A neoclassical heritage building in the Palace Quarter, located on one of Budapest’s most charming streets with 11 distinctively designed rooms. Bródy Sándor u. 10; brody.house
ARIA HOTEL Music is the inspiration behind this hip 49-room hotel divided into classical, jazz, opera, and contemporary wings. Sleep beneath Murano glass chandeliers, tufted velvet headboards, and exposed brick ceilings, then wake up to a cappuccino in Satchmo’s Bar & Library. Just before the sun sets, head to the rooftop High Note SkyBar, dominated by staggering views of St. Stephen’s Basilica. Each room is inspired by an individual composer or musician, decorated with fabulous original art by Czech caricaturist Josef Blecha, and has its own marble fireplace, with décor ranging from the voluptuous and extravagant purples of the opera wing to the more restrained palette and lines of the classical wing. Hercegprímás u. 5; ariahotelbudapest.com
ENSANA GRAND MARGARET ISLAND Escape the city for the night at this grand, secluded hotel on Margaret Island, whose 164 classically furnished rooms overlook the surrounding wooded parkland and, on one side, the Danube. An underground corridor connects the Ensana Grand with the thermal baths and wellness center at Health Spa Resort Margitsziget. Have dinner on the terrace of the Széchenyi restaurant or relax in the turn-of-the-century Viktória bar. Zielinski Szilárd stny; ensanahotels.com/en/hotels/grand-margaret-island
HOTEL MOMENTS Hotel Moments occupies a palatial building on Andrássy Avenue next to the Hungarian State Opera House. Andrássy út 8; hotelmomentsbudapest.hu
DINE
STRUDEL HOUSE A high-ceilinged cafe in an 1812 building serving goulash and Hungarian fish soup, plus a variety of the namesake strudels and cakes. Október 6. u. 22; reteshaz.com
CSERPES TEJIVO A modern café with multiple locations throughout the city, serving traditional Hungarian breakfast pastries, sandwiches, salads & sweets. cserpestejivo.hu/miert-tejivo
TOKIO SUSHI One of the best sushi restaurants in Budapest, located across from the Four Seasons Gresham Palace. Széchenyi István tér 7-8; tokiobudapest.com
NEW YORK CAFÉ Called the Most Beautiful Café in The World, the New York Café is located in the Anantara Palace Hotel and one of the world's most elegant places to enjoy a coffee and a slice of cake. Erzsébet krt. 9-11; newyorkcafe.hu
BISZTRÓNYÚL
A petite cafe and designer boutique. Bródy Sándor u. 11
LUMEN KÁVÉZÓ
A sunny, white-walled space, punctuated by lush plants, attracts a laptop set during the afternoons, but come evening morphs into a convivial wine-fueled bar—especially when there is live music. A tiny gallery showcases ever-changing artwork, while the adjacent boutique is the spot to peruse the likes of notebooks, blankets, and bags handmade by such Hungarian designers as Printa, Eszka, and Pompomdesign. Horánszky u. 5
CAFÉ CSIGA
A bright cafe filled with artwork, books, and delicious dishes like sweet potato soup with anchovies and chicken dressed in lemon-hazelnut sauce. Vásár u. 2
ÉPÍTÊSZPINCE
A lunch-only restaurant within the courtyard of an ivy-covered pre-war mansion. The restaurant, which arose during the 1956 revolution as a haven for architects and artists to hold secret powwows, is known for its ever-changing daily menus of homespun favorites such as tomato soup and hunks of pork over noodles. A wraparound pew-like banquette and original ceramic tiles by artist Margit Kovács decorate the space. Ötpacsirta utca 2; National Museum
SÁO When you’ve had your fill of traditional chicken paprikash and stuffed cabbage, escape to Sáo inside Gozsdu Udvar, a courtyard teeming with global restaurants and bars. This Vietnamese and Chinese fusion eatery offers a stylish refuge. Holló Street 10
COSTES DOWNTOWN Costes, one of the city’s posh Michelin-starred restaurants, just opened this sister spot. An equally reverent but more contemporary sibling complete with a living wall, it’s found inside the Prestige Hotel Budapest. After dinner, stroll to the nearby St. Stephen’s Basilica and the Parliament Building. Vigyázó Ferenc u. 5; costesdowntown.hu
KIOSK Escape Váci Street’s hordes of retail-minded pedestrians with an Aperol spritz or Pisco sour at Kiosk, a massive space set inside an old Piarist building with soaring ceilings and views of the Danube and Elizabeth Bridge. Order the goat cheese strudel. Március 15. Tér 4; kiosk-budapest.com
FEKETE A perfect pit stop after touring the Hungarian National Museum. The sleek white-and-wood interior opens up into a spacious courtyard. Order espresso made with Colombian beans. Múzeum krt. 5; feketekv.hu
MAZEL TOV A Budapest institution serving up contemporary Israeli food in the hip Jewish district of the city. Featuring an elegantly appointed courtyard serving specialties including a paprika-laced matbucha salad, shawarma, and pints of local Borsodi beer. Akácfa u. 47; mazeltov.hu
DÉRYNÉ The best spot for Sunday brunch on the Buda side of the Danube, which combines pre-war Berlin vibes with a certain Parisian chic and throws in a heavy measure of traditional Hungarian fare for good measure. Order the ultra-rich chicken paprikash and the local sparkling wine. Krisztina tér 3; deryne.com
DNB Situated on the Danube with unparalleled views of Buda Castle, DNB serves up excellent takes on traditional Hungarian classics. Duna korzó; dnbbudapest.com
RAMENKA A minimalist, Japanese-style ramen bar. The house special pairs fresh noodles with a savory, pork-based broth adorned with tender slices of braised pork belly, boiled egg, sprouts, chives, carrot matchsticks, and wood-ear mushrooms. Kazinczy u. 9; ramenka.hu
KANDALLO A small homely bar with wood tables for artisan beers and local brandies, plus Hungarian paté and burgers. Kertész u. 33; kandallopub.hu
DRINK
TASTING TABLE
Owned by the American food writer Carolyn Banfalvi and her Hungarian husband, Gabor, Tasting Table stocks over 200 wines, and offers daily wine tastings, and samplings of local cheeses and charcuterie. Hungarian producers include Heumann, Erzsébet, and Budaházy wineries. Bródy Sándor u. 22; tastehungary.com/tasting-table-budapest’
BESTIA Located across from St. Stephen’s Basilica serving specialty beer from local producers like Mad Scientist, Hedon, and Horizont, paired with excellent modern pub cuisine like beef marrow bones topped with bread crumbs and dried horseradish, sweet-and-sour barbecue chicken wings, and truffled macaroni and cheese. Szent István tér 9; bestia.hu
FIRST CRAFT BEER & BBQ 20 local craft beers are on tap, served with barbecue food from the open kitchen. Dob u. 3
ÉLESZTÓ Craft beers and traditional pub fare are served in a trendy, warehouse-style venue that has a terrace
BOUTIQ'BAR A small, intimate, stylish speakeasy-style bar located in Budapest's 6th district, on the Pest side of the chain bridge. Paulay Ede u. 5; boutiqbar.com
GOOD SPIRIT BAR A cocktail & whisky Bar with over 500 spirits, including takes on the domestic distillate palinka, made with beet, celery root, and carrot. Veres Pálné u. 7; goodspiritbar.hu
BOB A popular bar next to the river. Széchenyi István tér 7; bobbudapest.hu
PONTOON A boat and beach bar on the Danube. Vigadó 1./A kikötő
360 BAR Lively rooftop hangout serving local & global bites such as burgers & pasta, plus classic cocktails. Andrássy út 39; 360bar.hu
SZIMPLA KERT PUB A huge pub with rustic decor, live music, food, a market, and a garden. Kazinczy u. 14; szimpla.hu
ART | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
HUNGARIAN NATIONAL MUSEUM The Hungarian National Museum was founded in 1802 and is the national museum for the history, art, and archaeology of Hungary. Múzeum krt. 14-16, mnm.hu
HUNGARIAN STATE OPERA The Hungarian State Opera House, originally known as the Hungarian Royal Opera House, was designed by Miklós Ybl, a major figure of 19th-century Hungarian architecture. Marvel at the majestic marble interiors and red velvet seating. Andrássy út 22; opera.hu
MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS The Museum of Fine Arts is a museum in Heroes' Square, Budapest, Hungary, facing the Palace of Art. It was built by the plans of Albert Schickedanz and Fülöp Herzog in an eclectic-neoclassical style, between 1900 and 1906. Dózsa György út 41; szepmuveszeti.hu
MUSEUM OF APPLIED ARTS Built between 1893 and 1896, this Art Nouveau masterpiece is capped off with an incredible dome and a roof swathed in green-and-gold Zsolnay tiles. Inside, there are glass-roofed halls and bi-level arcades, heightening the visual allure of the museum’s historic European furniture collection. Üllői út 33-37; imm.hu
HUNGARIAN NATIONAL GALLERY The Hungarian National Gallery was established in 1957 as the National Art Museum. It is located in Buda Castle, and its collections cover Hungarian art in all genres, including the works of many nineteenth- and twentieth-century Hungarian artists. Szent György tér 2; mng.hu
METROPOLITAN ERVIN SZABÓ LIBRARY The main branch of Budapest’s massive Metropolitan Ervin Szabó Library network is situated in Wenckheim Palace, a 19th-century Neo-Baroque beauty designed by German-born Hungarian architect Arthur Meinig and accessed by wrought-iron gates. Up a sweeping marble staircase is the old home of aristocrat Count Frigyes Wenckheim, a series of high-ceilinged rooms with elaborate gold, silver, and wood detailing and mirrored doors where members are free to pore over books. Converted from a ballroom, the Gold Room, with its dramatic chandelier, is a highlight, as is the clubby Palace Smoking Room, a bibliophile hideaway complete with a fireplace and seductive spiral staircase. Uncover more of the country’s history with a stop at the Hungarian National Museum a short stroll away. Szabó Ervin tér 1; fszek.hu
LUDWIG MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART Founded by German couple Irene and Peter Ludwig with a number of works from their personal collection on display, this art museum focuses on presenting Eastern and Central European art from the mid-20th century up to the present day. Pieces from artists such as Andy Warhol, Claes Oldenburg, and Roy Lichtenstein can be found here, while temporary exhibitions provide a platform for established Hungarian and international artists. Komor Marcell u. 1; ludwigmuseum.hu
KUNSTHALLE Also known as the Hall of Art, this museum found on Budapest’s Hero’s Square focuses on contemporary art from both Hungarian and international artists. As well as established names, up-and-coming creatives are also given a platform, with exhibitions showing the work of students from local universities occasionally shown. Mücsarnok, Dózsa György út 37; https://www.mucsarnok.hu/
A38 A multi-purpose concert hall, cultural center, restaurant, and bar, Budapest’s most distinctive entertainment venue is housed in a rehabbed Ukrainian cargo ship on the Danube. Try pálinka, a boozy Hungarian fruit brandy, in the bow bar before one of the electronica, rock, or hip-hop performances. Petőfi bridge, Buda side; a38.hu
SHOP
NANUSHKA The cult Hungarian brand’s flagship store, which also comes complete with an elegantly appointed café. Bécsi u. 3; nanushka.com
CENTRAL MARKET HALL Restored sprawling neogothic hall for traders with grocery produce on the ground and souvenirs on the first floor. Vámház krt. 1-3; piaconline.hu
GOZSDU WEEKEND MARKET Small, year-round bazaar with antiques, art, jewelry and home decor, held in a historic courtyard. Király u. 13; weekendmarket.hu
BOMO ART Though tiny, this shop is well stocked with handmade journals fashioned from leather and watermarked paper. There are also myriad postcards, bookmarks, and recipe notebooks to pore over. Régi Posta Utca 14; bomoart.com
RŌZSAVÖLGYI CSOKOLÀDÉ An exquisite chocolate shop with flavors including smoked wood, tarragon, and chestnut honey bonbons, handcrafted in Budapest by a husband-and-wife team. Artfully wrapped in craft paper, the bars, available in such flavors as hot paprika, make welcoming souvenirs for folks back home. Királyi Pál u. 6; rozsavolgyi.com
FALK MIKSA UTCA
A street lined with art deco and vintage furniture where you can get ‘60s ceramics and vintage furniture. Budapest, 1055 Hungary
REPERTORY
A concept store carrying DAIGE, Mama Kin brands, and select designers. Budapest, Alagút u. 4
HEREND
Herend is the most famous ceramics house in Hungary. Their history goes back to 1826 and all of their items are hand-painted in Herend, Hungary. Andrássy út 16; herend.com
MÖBELKUNST
A vintage furniture warehouse, mostly mid-century. Hölgy u. 42; mobelkunst.hu
JULIA NEMA
A fine artist, porcelain, and ceramic designer recognized with major national prizes like the Hungarian Design Award (2003) and Ferenczy Noémi Award (2013). Her work is characterized by a unique harmony of fine arts, design, and handicrafts. She is the founder of one of the leading ceramics studios in Hungary which is the first and only venture in the country using a high-temperature wood-fired kiln for the professional creation of artworks and functional ware. julianema.com
ZSOLNAY
Vilmos Zsolnay developed a very unique glazing technique called Eosin in the 1890s, which can be found at this porcelain boutique. Budapest, József nádor tér 12, 1051 Hungary
ECSERI PIAC
An antique market open every Saturday, full of ceramics and antiques. Nagykőrösi út 156;
TÜNDE RUZICSKA
A Hungarian ceramics brand sold at Mono Art & Design, Magma Gallery, Artushka, and Fian Concept. Ady Endre út 17;
BÁLNA A modern shopping mall partially composed of restored, 19th-century warehouses. Fővám tér 11-12; balnabudapest.hu
PRINTA A concept store & gallery featuring works of local designers including prints, textiles & t-shirts. Rumbach Sebestyén u. 10; printa.hu
SPA
GELLERT SPA One of Budapest’s most notable landmarks is the circa-1918 Art Nouveau Hotel Gellért. The cherished, restorative Gellért Baths, among the city’s myriad thermal complexes, are inside. Beyond the healing waters sourced from Gellért Hill, it’s a visually stunning locale, with stained glass ceilings, Zsolnay mosaic tiles, and elegant sculptures. Kelenhegyi út 4; www.gellertfurdo.hu
SZÉCHENYI BATHS One of the largest bath complexes in Europe with multiple pools, saunas, aquafitness, aerobics, and a gym surrounded by beautiful yellow Wes Anderson-esque architecture. Állatkerti krt. 9-11; szechenyifurdo.hu
OMOROVICZA BOUTIQUE & SPA Inspired by tradition, guided by nature, and spearheading the concept of Mineral Cosmetology, the unique Hungarian thermal waters are the foundation of Omorovicza skin care. Founded by a young couple, Stephen and Margaret de Heinrich de Omorovicza, who met in Budapest, Omorovicza has grown to become an award-winning luxury skincare brand with a global presence. Andrássy út 45; omorovicza.hu
RUDAS BATHS One of the city’s most atmospheric thermal pools, originally built during the Ottoman occupation in the mid-16th century. Though it retains much of its original Turkish architecture, a 2014 reconstruction added modern spa facilities, a Turkish-Hungarian fusion restaurant, and a panorama pool on the rooftop terrace. Döbrentei tér 9; rudasbaths.com