Carmel-by-the-Sea
Photo by Slim Aarons/Hulton Archive/Getty Images)
Carmel-by-the-Sea is a small beach city on California's Monterey Peninsula, recognized by the fairytale cottages and galleries of its village-like center. The Scenic Bluff Path runs from surf spot Carmel Beach to Carmel River State Beach, with a scuba entry point. South lie the sea animals and whaling museum of Point Lobos State Natural Reserve. Nearby cities include Pebble Beach, famous for the 17 Mile Drive and annual Concours d’Elegance, and Monterey, immortalized by novelist John Steinbeck. South of Carmel lies Big Sur, a rugged stretch of California coast, accessible by State Route 1, known for winding turns, seaside cliffs, and views of the misty coastline.
STAY
MISSION RANCH Clint Eastwood’s hotel and 22 acre property in Carmel, complete with a restaurant and patio overlooking a sheep meadow and Carmel River Beach. Eastwood was the town's mayor from 1986 to 1988 and still lives in the area. You might even catch a glimpse of him at his restaurant and piano bar. 26270 Dolores St; missionranchcarmel.com
BERNARDUS An earthy 57-room inn and winery set amidst vineyards, lavender fields, and rose gardens, and a great lawn used for croquet and bocce. Have a glass of wine by the roaring lobby fire or enjoy a meal alfresco at the pergola-shaded Mediterranean bistro. 415 W Carmel Valley Rd; bernardus.com
THE INN AT SPANISH BAY Part of Pebble Beach Resort, situated on the 18-hole golf course The Links at Spanish Bay, this property has the feel of a Scottish lodge — especially when the ocean mist rolls in at cocktail hour as the resident bagpipe player (in full Highland dress) performs on the green. The main restaurant, Roy's, is an area favorite for its take on Hawaiian-fusion cuisine. Enjoy the nearby Spanish Bay Club and Tennis Pavilion or The Beach & Tennis Club near The Lodg. e2700 17 Mile Dr; pebblebeach.com/accommodations/the-inn-at-spanish-bay
L’AUBERGE CARMEL This 1929 Relais & Châteaux property is fashioned after a European inn, featuring winding staircases and soaking tubs, and is conveniently located in the heart of Carmel Village, steps from Carmel Beach. Monte Verde St &, 7th Ave; laubergecarmel.com
VENTANA This 160-acre hotel features a spa, two outdoor pools, Japanese bath houses, and a glass art gallery. Its 59 cabin-like rooms are spacious, each with a private balcony or patio looking out on the soaring redwoods, furnished with a woodburning fireplace, a hammock on the deck, and a stone bathroom with a large soaking tub. Dine alfresco at the resort’s restaurant offering stunning views and coastal cuisine. It’s a testament to Ventana that even with some of the best hiking and most gorgeous beaches in the world right outside the door, it’s still hard to leave the property. At sunset, the kitchen offers a wine tasting, where guests can grab a glass and settle into one of the Adirondack chairs. 48123 CA-1, Big Sur; hyatt.com/en-US/hotel/california/ventana
POST RANCH INN Perched some 1,200 feet above the Pacific Ocean, the Post Ranch Inn, feels more like a luxury treehouse above the clouds than a resort. Sierra Mar restaurant has floor-to-ceiling glass windows and terraces offering spectacular views overlooking the Santa Lucia mountains and the Pacific Ocean at sunset. It also offers a fantastic, four-course, prix fixe menu, with entrees like duck confit with local huckleberries and parsnips, housemade pappardelle with pesto, and pickled yucca blossoms. 47900 CA-1, Big Sur; postranchinn.com
LINCOLN GREEN INN A charming bed and breakfast within a white picket fence located on the renowned and picturesque Carmel Point, only a short stroll from the popular River and Carmel Beach. 26200 Carmelo St; lincolngreeninn.com
VILL MARA CARMEL A new 16-room luxury boutique hotel feels more like a private home, nestled in Carmel Point, 100 yards from the Pacific Ocean. In the mornings, the guests-only hotel bar serves juice shots, pastries, quiches, and excellent coffee. In the evening, it’s a relaxing place to gather for a cocktail or a glass of wine near the secluded firepits and cypress trees. 2408 Bay View Ave; villamaracarmel.com
CARMEL VALLEY RANCH Spread over 500 acres, this sprawling property features an18-hole golf course, eight tennis courts, multiple pools, a vineyard, an organic garden, a goat pen, and nightly s’mores by the fire pit. 1 Old Ranch Rd; hyatt.com/en-US/hotel/california/carmel-valley-ranch
LA PLAYA CARMEL A boutique bed and breakfast with ocean views and gardens. Camino Real &, 8th Ave; laplayahotel.com
DEETJENS The original buildings date back to the 1930s when the owners, Helmuth and Helen Deetjen, first welcomed guests to their collection of tiny cottages in the redwoods. There are currently 16 rooms available for overnight stays, each one with its own quirks (sloping roofs, rickety floors, timeworn furniture), and some with their own fireplaces or a wood-burning stove. Deetjen’s is especially magical at the end of March when the wisteria is in full bloom. 48865 CA-1, Big Sur; deetjens.com
GLEN OAKS BIG SUR Formerly a 1950s-era motor inn, the property has been totally redone by San Francisco designer Steve Justrich in a pleasing mix of mid-century-modern and contemporary Zen aesthetics, including bamboo floors, shoji screens, and Eames chairs. glenoaksbigsur.com
TASSAJARA ZEN CENTER If you need an escape from the hustle and bustle of city life, the Buddhists at this Sōtō Zen monastery—the oldest in the United States—believe meditation can be the tool that quiets the storm. Built in 1967 deep inside the Los Padres National Forest, the center offers zen retreats. 39171 Tassajara Rd; https://www.sfzc.org/locations/tassajara
HOTEL CARMEL This boutique hotel features a distinctly Northern California aesthetic (brass light fixtures and warm wood furniture), and an inviting pub called Brophy’s Tavern. 4th &, San Carlos St, Carmel-By-The-Sea; thehotelcarmel.com
TREEBONES RESORT South of Ventana and Post Ranch Inn in Big Sure lies Treebones Resort, a glamping option with sixteen Mongolian-style yurts on a hillside connecting the Pacific coast to Los Padres National Forest. The huts are outfitted with French doors and domed skylights, and there’s a hot tub and heated pool outside the main lodge. 71895 CA-1, Big Sur; treebonesresort.com
DINE | DRINK
LA BICYCLETTE A cozy, romantic European-style bistro in Carmel village for wood-fired pizzas and classic French country cuisine. Dolores St &, 7th Ave; labicycletterestaurant.com
THE SUR HOUSE Whether you are a guest at Ventana or not, don’t miss a meal at The Sur House, which is served on the sprawling patio with mountains, redwoods, and ocean views. 48123 CA-1, Big Sur; ventanabigsur.com/dining/the-sur-house
SIERRA MAR The restaurant at Post Ranch Inn is built to ensure that you’ll have the best possible views over the course of your meal. Set on a cliff above the surf, there are floor-to-ceiling glass walls and the tables are positioned at various heights so there’s truly no bad seat in the house. The four-course prix fixe menu changes daily but is a mix of Asian, French, and Mediterranean, drawing from much of the area’s fresh produce. Expect beautifully plated dishes like carrot cavatelli, seared king salmon with smoked split peas, and a tart apple salad topped with Big Sur chèvre. 47900 CA-1, Big Sur; postranchinn.com/dine
VILLAGE CORNER A long-established bistro serving Mediterranean-inspired fare in casual digs with a charming patio. Order the huevos rancheros for an authentic Mexican breakfast! Sixth Ave. &, Dolores St, Carmel-By-The-Sea; villagecornercarmel.com
CASANOVA A cozy, romantic spot with an outdoor patio, and French and Italian dishes. 5th Ave, Carmel-By-The-Sea; casanovacarmel.com
VESUVIO Order a pizza, the artichokes, and enjoy the views from the rooftop bar. 6th Ave &, Junipero St, Carmel-By-The-Sea; chefpepe.com/restaurants/vesuvio
KATY’S PLACE A breakfast restaurant serving eggs benedicts, lobster and avocado omelets, burgers, and more in a cozy space with chandeliers and diner-style tables. Mission St, Carmel-By-The-Sea; carmelcalifornia.com/restaurants-katys
NEPENTHE Nepenthe’s original owners, Lolly and Bill Fassett, actually came to Big Sur in the late ‘40s, wanting to raise their children in the wilderness and, as they put it, “host dance parties under the stars.” The long-standing restaurant is made from redwood and bricks that Lolly made by hand, and the Fassetts (their children and grandchildren still run the place) are an important piece of Big Sur history. The famous Ambrosia Burger is still the thing to order. Visit at sunset for a sunset drink on the patio for views 800 feet above the surf. 48510 CA-1, Big Sur; nepenthe.com
PÂTISSERIE BOISSIERE French country dishes and wine, plus pastries and espresso are served in this quaint, chateau-style restaurant. Mission Street between Ocean &, 7th Ave, Carmel-By-The-Sea; patisserieboissiere.com
PORTA BELLA A charming restaurant with cozy, old-world ambiance, and a patio garden offering French and Italian food. Ocean Ave, Carmel-By-The-Sea; portabellacarmel.com
FLYING FISH GRILL A romantic subterranean spot for seafood, and a carefully curated wine list. 7th Ave, Carmel-By-The-Sea; flyingfishgrill.com
DUTCH DOOR DONUTS Fresh, unique, delicious donuts made daily in the heart of Carmel-By-The-Sea. 1 Mission St Unit 205C, Carmel-By-The-Sea; dutchdoordonuts.com
CARMEL VALLEY ROASTING COMPANY
A local coffeehouse offering beverages made with locally roasted, organic coffee beans, plus pastries. Ocean Ave, Carmel-By-The-Sea; carmelcoffeeroasters.com
PASSIONFISH A popular spot in Pacific Grove. As the name suggests, famous for fish. 701 Lighthouse Ave, Pacific Grove; passionfish.net
LAFAYETTE BAKERY This unassuming little bakery is nestled into a surprisingly cozy corner of an otherwise nondescript shopping mall. The pastries, especially tehe croissants, are the real draw here, but you can also pick up salami sandwiches on fresh-baked baguettes, which make a lovely picnic lunch on the beach in Point Reyes. 3659 The Barnyard e22, Carmel-By-The-Sea; lafayette-bakery.com
BIG SUR BAKERY Big Sur Bakery serves California-style seasonal dishes alongside excellent coffee, flavorful sourdoughs, and pastries. Come for brunch to try their famous scones and breakfast pizza cooked in their wood-fired oven. 47540 CA-1, Big Sur; bigsurbakery.com
DEETJEN’S RESTAURANT Not much has changed since owner Barbara Blake arrived at Deetjen’s in 1939, and breakfast in the magnolia-shrouded courtyard remains a rite of passage for first-timers— order the breakfast burrito. Dinner is also magical, set in one of the four small dining rooms, where old photos line the walls, and the entire space is lit by candlelight. The warming menu is simple but thoughtful: a creamy saffron vegetable risotto, oven-roasted rack of lamb, homemade soup, and Dungeness crab cakes. 48865 CA-1, Big Sur; deetjens.com/restaurant
ART | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
JULIA PFEIFFER BURNS STATE PARK Famous for its gorgeous turquoise cove, Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. If you happen to be there in December or January, the benches at the end of the Overlook trail are a great place to see whales migrating south. A short hike will lead you to McWay Falls, overlooking 80 feet of cascading water into the Pacific Ocean. The park is also home to 300-foot redwoods which are over 2,500 years old. 52801 CA-1, Big Sur; parks.ca.gov
CARMEL BEACH A curving white sandy beach backed by cypress trees known for surfing, dog walking, and sunsets.
EARTHBOUND FARM STAND Nestled in California’s Carmel Valley, just down the road from Earthbound Farm’s 2½-acre farm lies the Farm Stand. A cherished destination for organic food and gardens by locals and out-of-town visitors alike, the Farm Stand is a living celebration of Earthbound Farm’s mission to bring the benefits of organic to as many people as possible, in the most delicious and inspiring way. 7250 Carmel Valley Rd, Carmel-By-The-Sea; earthboundfarm.com
CARMEL MISSION In 1797, this Roman Catholic church was built in the Carmel Valley by the Spanish missionaries who settled in California during the 18th century. It remains one of the best examples of its kind (it's the only mission in the state with its original bell tower) and offers a valuable glimpse into the history of California under Spanish colonial rule and later, Mexico. 3080 Rio Rd, Carmel-By-The-Sea; carmelmission.org
MONTEREY BAY AQUARIUM Arguably the world’s greatest exhibition of sea life, the Monterey Bay Aquarium is a vast two-story structure (half of which was a former Cannery Row sardine-canning factory) straddling the Pacific Ocean. The aquarium also offers private tours, underwater scuba adventures, and cruises aboard its 65-foot eco-sailboat. 886 Cannery Row, Monterey; montereybayaquarium.org
PEBBLE BEACH CONCOURS D’ELEGANCE For fans of vintage cars, there is probably no greater event in the country than Car Week, which takes place every summer on the peninsula. Sponsored largely by Rolex, events include The Quail, a Motorsports Gathering (a garden party–like setting at Quail Lodge & Golf Club. The crowning event is the Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance. Held on the Pebble Beach Golf Links, it's a gathering of the world's finest examples of vintage automobiles, many of which date back to the 1920s, and some of which are worth millions. The event culminates in a best-of-show winner, and past champions have included Ralph Lauren (for his 1930 Mercedes Benz). pebblebeachconcours.net
PEBBLE BEACH EQUESTRIAN CENTER With more than 27 miles of marked equestrian trails that run deep into the beautiful Del Monte Forest, Pebble Beach Equestrian Center offers a memorable horseback riding experience. 3300 Portola Rd, Pebble Beach; pebblebeach.com/equestrian-center/
PEBBLE BEACH GOLF LINKS The pinnacle when it comes to public courses (Golf Digest ranks it #1). It has hosted six U.S. Opens (more than any other course) and is set to host its seventh in 2027. While booking reservations for a round can be a challenge, hotel guests at The Lodge at Pebble Beach, The Inn at Spanish Bay, and Casa Palmero receive special privileges. 1700 17 Mile Dr, Pebble Beach; pebblebeach.com/golf/pebble-beach-golf-links
STILLWATER YACHT CLUB Stillwater Yacht Club was established in 1948 to promote yachting on beautiful Carmel Bay. It is not just for boat owners, but is open to all Beach Club members who share a love for the sea. PO Box 561 Pebble Beach; sycpb.org
BIXBY CREEK BRIDGE Bixby Creek Bridge, also known as Bixby Canyon Bridge, on the Big Sur coast of California, is one of the most photographed bridges in California due to its design— it is a reinforced concrete open-spandrel arch bridge, one of the tallest single-span concrete bridges in the world, that acts as a gateway to Big Sur. You might recognize it from Big Little Lies.
POINT LOBOS STATE NATURAL RESERVE Hike around a surreal landscape of craggy cliffs and windblown cypresses. Park at the Sea Lion Point Parking Area and hike the Cypress Grove Trail. Take in the limestone rock formations, rugged bluffs, and coves dotted with seals and sea lions while peering out into deep blue waters, keeping an eye out for spouting whales. Legend has it that Robert Louis Stevenson was inspired to write his 1883 novel “Treasure Island” while strolling the beach near Point Lobos. Scuba divers take note: 60 percent of the reserve's 554 acres lie underwater, in one of the richest marine habitats in California. 62 CA-1, Carmel-By-The-Sea; parks.ca.gov
17-MILE DRIVE Pick up the legendary 17-Mile Drive at the town of Pacific Grove, which will have you winding around ravishing coves, bays, and beaches, passing the iconic Lone Cypress, a 250-year-old tree that's become the symbol of Pebble Beach, as well as Bird Rock, a hangout for sea lions and pelicans. The views of Pebble Beach Golf Course and the surrounding beachfront homes are also impressive. pebblebeach.com/17-mile-drive
PFEIFFER BEACH View tide pools and a natural arch known as Keyhole Rock a popular photography spot. 47199 Clear Ridge Rd, Big Sur; fs.usda.gov
MISSION SAN JUAN BAUTISTA For fans of the classic Alfred Hitchcock film Vertigo, check out the mission that provided the setting for the 1959 film’s finale: the Mission San Juan Bautista. Besides its Hitchcock connection (although fans may be disappointed to find that the famous tower was actually erected just for the film), the real surprise is the beauty of the 1797 structure (the only original Spanish plaza left in California) as well as the charm of the village with its antique shops, cafés, bars, and restaurants. Visit the lush garden of the Jardines de San Juan Mexican restaurant. 406 2nd St, San Juan Bautista; oldmissionsjb.org
VISION QUEST RANCH A few miles south of Salinas, there is a scruffy 15-acre spread that looks deceptively like the African plains and is home to Vision Quest Ranch, a most unusual resort where guests stay in authentic wood-decked safari tents, surrounded by all manner of animals, from zebras to leopards to elephants. In the evening, the cries of the wild ring in the air, and, in the morning, an elephant may bring you breakfast. The resort is the creation of Charlie Sammut, a professional animal trainer, and while it offers up a surprisingly authentic African adventure, it also provides refuge for former circus and carnival animals. 400 River Rd, Salinas,; visionquestranch.com.
ANDREW MOLERA STATE PARK A diverse network of 20 miles of trails offers access to Molera Beach and the mouth of the Big Sur River. 45500 CA-1, Big Sur; parks.ca.gov
POINT SUR STATE HISTORIC PARK AND LIGHT STATION Home to the still-functioning Point Sur Lighthouse, built in 1889 for ships navigating the rocky coastline. Perched on a mound of volcanic rock at the mouth of the Little Sur River, the lighthouse is open for guided walking tours year-round. CA-1, Monterey; parks.ca.gov
HENRY MILLER LIBRARY The Henry Miller Library is part memorial (the Tropic of Cancer author called Big Sur home), part bookshop, and part hangout in the woods. 48603 CA-1, Big Sur; henrymiller.org
GARRAPATA STATE PARK There’s no official entrance to Garrapata, which makes it a bit of a secret. Walk on the redwood-shaded paths or the more stunning pathways that hug the bluffs. 34500 CA-1, Carmel-By-The-Sea; parks.ca.gov
CANNERY ROW Cannery Row in Monterey is a waterfront street, which was the site of a number of now-defunct sardine canning factories— the last cannery closed in 1973. The street name, formerly a nickname for Ocean View Avenue, became official in January 1958 to honor John Steinbeck and his novel Cannery Row. In the novel's opening sentence, Steinbeck described the street as "a poem, a stink, a grating noise, a quality of light, a tone, a habit, a nostalgia, a dream." canneryrow.com
SHOP
FOXY COUTURE A luxury consignment boutique specializing in rare and vintage designer goods. Shop Chanel, Hermes, Dior, Cartier, Gucci, Fendi, and more. San Carlos St. 2 SW of 5th Ave Between 5th & 6th, Carmel-By-The-Sea; foxycouturecarmel.com
THE CARMEL DRUG STORE The Carmel Drug Store has been selling handmade Swiss combs and grandma colognes and Coca-Cola in glass bottles since 1910. Ocean Avenue and San Carlos Street; carmeldrugstore.com
SPA
POST RANCH SPA Inspired by traditions of local history and community, the Post Ranch Spa offers organic signature spa treatments and Mother Nature’s healing elements to nurture you. Feel anew with soothing body treatments, meditation sessions, invigorating private guided hikes, and energizing yoga classes. An authentic Native American shaman has been installed to oversee a variety of new holistic treatments and experiences including illuminations, soul retrievals, and drum journeys. It offers specialized treatments like Reiki and vibrational resonance. 47900 CA-1, Big Sur; postranchinn.com/experiences/wellness/spa
ESALEN INSTITUTE Primarily an educational facility for holistic health gurus, the legendary Esalen Institute welcomes nonstudent guests for massage treatments. Visit the hot springs before or after your treatment. 55000 CA-1, Big Sur; esalen.org
Text: Veronica H. Speck Photo: Slim Aarons, © Getty Images