Cerise Zelenetz | Cherry on Top
Cerise Zelenetz is a Vermont-raised New York City-based artist, writer, designer and illustrator. Her original illustration works have been featured in print and digital publications including The New Yorker, The Paris Review, American Bystander and Nylon. She has also provided creative consulting and illustration work for clients including Nike, Oddfellows Ice Cream, Les Grands Verres, Araks, De Smet, Luz Ortiz, Catherine Quin, M. Patmos, Anecho, Semigloss, and Sorelle. Zelenetz also created the menu illustrations for Les Grands Verres in the Museé Palais De Tokyo in Paris, and she has a book titled “The Sound of Scrambled Eggs.” Today, we sit down with Cerise to discuss her latest foray into hospitality with Cherry on Top, a petit bar à vin naturel opening in Summer 2021 in Bushwick, Brooklyn.
Where are you from originally and where do you live now? I grew up in Vermont, moved to Paris after high school to study art and fashion design for two years, and then moved to New York City. Both of my parents are New Yorkers so I grew up coming to the city often to visit my grandparents. My mother’s parents bought a co-op apartment in the Lower East Side in the 1950s, which is where I now live. It has seen four generations of my family now. My grandmother decorated the entire space herself in the 50s and her aesthetic continues to be very influential to my work and design. Nostalgia and feeling at home in unknown places is a big part of my aesthetic and definitely plays a major role in the design of Cherry On Top.
Where and what did you study? I studied art and fashion design at Parsons Paris. It was the best decision I’ve ever made to move to Europe straight out of high school at such an influential age. I intended to come back to New York for a ‘year abroad’ and graduate from the Paris program, but I ended up staying as I felt the Fashion Design program here was stronger. I ended up concentrating in Menswear design and still love the subject, but didn’t find working in the industry creatively fulfilling.
What is your first memory of art/design? Growing up, I was always drawing and painting for as long as I remember. I lived sort of in the middle of nowhere so I became very good at entertaining myself and using my imagination. I remember sitting at the kitchen counter while my mom cooked dinner, pestering her to tell me what to draw. I am working on a couple of children’s books with my uncle now (he used to write for Marvel comics), and I still feel the impact that the illustrations of Dr. Seuss, Shel Silverstein, and classic Roald Dahl books had on me today. I remember figuring out the connection between words and images, and being overtaken with excitement to discover these new worlds.
What was your first watercolor work? In fashion school, part of the curriculum was fashion drawing where we explored different mediums, but everything was sort of structured in the traditional technique of fashion figures. I always tried to push the boundaries of what was considered “acceptable” within these boundaries, and began this style that I think people have come to recognize me for-- colors that bleed into each other and create an abstract outline of form with detailed linework over. A lot of people think I create the lines first and paint over but it’s actually the other way around. I don’t really know where the lines will go until the paint finds its place on the page.
Favorite artists or designers? So many for many different reasons..In terms of classic fine art, I love Schiele, Bacon, Dali, Redon, Bonnard. In fashion, CDG and Margiela are always inspiring in terms of their clever, humorous outlook and new interpretations of classics, but I’m also a sucker for classic sportswear, and vintage Lacoste sort of gets me more excited than anything.
Favorite art/design periods/movements in history? The surrealist movement was really influential to me. In terms of both visual art and writing. I definitely align myself with that stream of consciousness aesthetic. I also love Fauvism and the combination of organic shapes and bright, evocative color they use in expression.
Who or what inspires you? I’m inspired by discovery and memory. Travel is one of the most important things to me. Learning about new cultures and places by living among locals ignites the most creativity and makes me realize how much there is out there to see, learn, and create. I also have a strong connection with my family and family history which definitely influences and inspires what I do. I think strong storytelling in any medium requires and connects both aspects.
How did you become involved with Oddfellows? I was actually working as the in-house illustrator for New Lab, a tech incubator in the Navy Yard. I went to see a Q & A with Anthony Bourdain and Wylie Dufresne (two of my ultimate food idols) taking place there and Oddfellows was there serving super unique ice cream flavors after the event. I was immediately intrigued and reached out to Mohan about working together.
Which locations have your murals? My first project with them was three large pen-on-paper line drawings for the NoLita location, which unfortunately closed recently. After that, I did two large mural-like drawings directly on the columns inside their DUMBO shop, and then when they opened in Boston, I drove up there with Mohan and their manager, Andy to do the largest, painted mural for them so far. Since that piece took me a few days we ended up exploring the city a bit, and drinking natural wine at a local wine bar there, which is where the idea of Cherry On Top began.
What inspired each mural for each location? It was easy to collaborate with Oddfellows as Mohan’s aesthetic for the brand has a similar sense of whimsy and humor. The first two spaces were based around the concept of circuses and sideshows, which is central to the brand. When I worked on the columns, obviously the surface space and shape was unique so I thought in different spatial terms than the first series of drawings to come up with the final designs. For the Boston piece, I brainstormed with Mohan and the Oddfellows team to come up with the idea of a Sgt. Pepper’s-like group portrait of famous Boston figures. That was a really fun piece to create.
What is your favorite ice cream flavor? I’m definitely not a purist when it comes to ice cream flavors. I like trying strange combinations of things, which Oddfellows is very good at creating. Sweet and savory is also appealing to me like adding rosemary to raspberry or thyme to fig. I also love Asian-inspired flavors like ginger and red bean. Oddfellows also has a vegan matcha black sesame flavor that I love, but to be honest I’ve never had a disappointing scoop from them.
How did you become involved with food/wine? Both of my parents traveled and lived all over the world before I was born and instilled a love of food as a way of learning about foreign cultures in me. Growing up, every weekend we would pick a country and find recipes to create a dinner from that part of the world. That really helped me learn about different flavors and got me interested in experimenting with combinations of intensely evocative herbs and spices to create new dishes.
As for wine, some of my fondest memories from Paris are sitting around a little cafe table, people watching, and sharing bottles of wine with friends over hours of conversation about art, life, etc. I think I first got into it by the European culture surrounding it and the connections I made from that ritualistic approach to drinking. Later, when I began my illustration career, I worked with a lot of food & wine companies to create branding and menu design which gave me a greater, in-depth look at the industry. I think what I appreciate most about food and wine is its transitory nature and the experience it provides. Good food or good wine is a moment in time. It’s a compilation of company, setting, connection, in addition to flavor. It is an art form that brings cultures and individuals together in a totally unique and interactive way. I’ve actually written and illustrated a book of short stories and poems based on food memories as they are some of the most powerful memories I have. Not just for the food and wine itself, but the sharing of it. It’s a very intimate experience sharing a drink or a meal with someone.
Why organic wine? As I started illustrating for restaurants and winemakers, I saw myself quickly being swallowed up in the natural wine world as there is a sensitivity and artfulness to the process much greater than that of the traditional, non-natural winemakers. The sense of storytelling natural wine provides is so transportive. I felt similar to when I was a child reading picture books and discovering new worlds. Each region, vineyard, process, and bottle are so unique, and so unique to each winemaker. I love the variation and breadth of flavors out there, as well as the poetry of personal interpretation of tasting.
Tell me about your recent trip to Oregon? How did you create the blend? Oregon is overwhelmingly beautiful. I was so lucky to be able to go stay at Joe Swick’s vineyard and create a custom blend with him, picking each grape varietal and being part of each step of the process. We initially tasted through each barrel for me to decide what I wanted to include in the blend. I’ve created a few label designs for Joe and we became friends through that process. He’s a very skilled, creative, and thoughtful winemaker and it was an honor to learn from his wide breadth of knowledge and experience. He collects varietals from all over Oregon, cloned from European grapes so there was a staggering amount of option and each one was so unique, it was hard to choose. I knew I wanted a light red for the cuvee so we focused on that and selected grapes that really told the Vermont, Paris, New York, time and space traveling story I wanted to convey. Joe and I are both really happy with what we came up with and I can’t wait to share it with the world.
What is your favorite wine and why? That’s a really difficult question. I don’t know if I can answer, but I can say the bottle that got me into natural wine was Clos Fantine Faugeres. I remember drinking it at a friend’s gathering and feeling my eyes widen. The earthy, chestnut complexity was like nothing else I had ever tasted. It’s still a favorite and holds a lot of sentimental value. Other than that, nothing beats a flinty champagne!
Favorite museums/galleries? The Centre Pompidou in Paris is definitely one of my favorites. Every time I go back it’s on my list. I also love the Palais de Tokyo there. Always something unique and thought-provoking on display there. I also did wine list illustrations for Les Grands Verres, the restaurant there, which sadly no longer exists, but for that period it was fun for me to go check on the doodles I created. I also love Reina Sofia in Madrid as they highlight a lot of South American artists that don’t get as much coverage in the US. The layout and architecture are also beautiful. In New York, I always love the permanent collection at Moma and the curation of the Brooklyn Museum. Wandering around Chelsea galleries on a weekend afternoon is also one of my favorite pastimes.
Favorite bars, cafes, restaurants, bakeries? Oof. I think I’ll just have to list them because there are so many...
Paris: Martin, Les Enfants du Marche, Mary Celeste, Verre Vole, Derriere, Le Dauphin, Anahi, and Stolly’s is my old hangout little Irish ex-pat bar...
Barcelona: Bendito, Celso y Manolo
New York: For wine and other drinks: The Ten Bells, 29b, Zabar’s Bar 91 (also amazing food), Four Horsemen, Leo, Rhodora. Food - Mimi, Ume, Yopparai, Russ & Daughters Cafe, and Uncle Boon’s and WD50 when they existed. Probably some of my favorite dining experiences ever.
Favorite local spots? I used to work at Eastwood a couple of blocks away from me. They have a small cocktail bar attached called The Dancer that I love the design of. Both Eastwood and The Dancer attract mostly locals and are a great little semi-secret.
Favorite hotels? When I travel I tend to stay with friends so I don’t actually get to experience many hotels but I do always love exploring hotel bars and seeing the diverse blend of travelers they attract. The Bowery is one of my favorites in New York, but I think nothing beats sitting with a glass at Bemelmans Bar at the Carlyle and gazing around on all the beautiful, evocative illustrations of Ludwig Bemmelman covering the walls. They also have the best bar snacks. In Paris, I also got a chance to see the La Maison Champs Elysees which was designed by Margiela and is really clever and inspired in its design.
Favorite shops/designers? I’m a big thrift fan. I honestly love digging through the 1 Euro bins at FreepStars in Paris, and overflowing racks at L Train vintage here in search of buried treasures. The deadstock fabric warehouse in New Hampshire where I sourced the fabrics for the bar’s stool cushions is also a great time. They sell all sorts of old crafting supplies from beads to stamps to doll parts and I always leave with way too much. In terms of more curated spaces, I love Maryam Nazir Zadeh and La Garconne where I used to work as a copywriter. Also, McNally Jackson, Strand, and Book Culture are frequent stops when I’m in need of reading material and inspiration.
Favorite eras in time? If you could live anywhere at any point in time, what would you choose? Growing up, I was very into flapper style and the ’20s. I still think that’s what I’d choose. And in Paris. (surprise surprise). I’d love to be able to experience it in the time of Dali and Breton when surrealism permeated the boundaries of both visual and written realms. Sitting at a cafe in Le Marais writing exquisite corpse poetry over a bottle of wine is my idea of a perfect evening.
Where do you dream of traveling next? I’ve never been to Asia and Japan is definitely top of my list. I was supposed to do a residency there last summer which was canceled due to COVID. I can’t wait for the world to open up and start exploring again.
Tell me about Cherry on Top? How did you come up with the name? Besides the obvious! I love naming things. I spent a long time going over puns in my head then one night I woke up around 3am and it just popped into my head and I knew it was right. The roof is on top of where the Oddfellows factory was located until just recently, and Cerise translates to cherry in french so there are two meanings that both fit together.
What is the inspiration? The concept is really based on my past of travel and art with influences of rural Vermont, Parisian wine culture, and my Jewish grandmother’s LES apartment. I am also creating all of the artwork in not just mounted paintings but painted lampshades, menu illustration, and hand-painted ‘uniforms’ so that is a big element as well tying everything into my story.
What will it offer/set it apart from other wine bars? I think something that sets European wine bars apart from those in New York is the sense of feeling cozy and relaxed while maintaining the utmost level of care and attention to detail. I want this to be conveyed at Cherry On Top. We will offer a small, welcome bar snack with each order (cornichon or olives for example) and engage people to try and learn about our wines without any pretension. I never want people trying to learn like they don’t know enough to ask. Service is a big element for me. I also want the food menu to offer something for everyone from vegans to gluten-free customers and carnivores without being a ‘vegan’ place or ‘meat & cheese’ place. The menu (food & wine) will change continually so people can keep coming back and having a new experience to try in the same, welcoming setting. We will also have a large rooftop patio which I don’t believe exists anywhere in the New York natural wine world.
What is your creative process? It depends on what the project is, but I always tend to think that if anything creative is too forced it loses the initial intended spirit I want to convey. I definitely work in a stream of conscious manner and explore ideas a lot through sketching and writing before I arrive at my finished project. A lot of times I just pick up my pen and let it go and realize only after I've come upon something worth pursuing. I also journal every morning which helps me realize what is and isn’t working in my projects, and move forward in the most authentic way possible.
Do you cook? Signature dish? I love cooking for others which is not easy in my small New York kitchen. I usually have people over for Jewish holidays and have gotten pretty good at making latkes, but I wouldn’t call that a signature dish. I like small bites and mixing a lot of spices that would not traditionally go together. I rarely use recipes so every dish ends up being unique. I learned how to cook this way from my mother. I like the experimentation and taste as you go method which lends itself well to dips and hors d'oeuvres which I make a lot of if I have people over. Curried miso hummus, chicharron topped with smoked oysters and piquillo peppers, potato slices topped with homemade pistachio pesto and anchovies, things like that…I enjoy playing around with the plating and color palette of one bite combinations as well.
Daily uniform? It changes every day depending on my mood. Never all black though. I love wearing all white with pops of color. Similar to the palette for Cherry On Top. Color and comfort are key. I wear a lot of menswear-inspired pieces as well like tailored button-downs, trousers, and loafers but always with a bit of a twist.
What is next for you? Cherry On Top in the immediate horizon! That’s what I’m focused on at the moment, but I also have my short story book coming out soon and a few other illustration collaborations I’m excited to work on. In the future, I’d love to continue working in the food and wine sector creating unique worlds and experiences. The next dream of mine would be to design a hotel space or another eatery overseas. Really just to travel, explore and create is my goal in life in whatever way that unfolds.
THE PROUST QUESTIONNAIRE
What is your idea of perfect happiness? Perfect happiness for me lies in the unexpected. Discoveries and connections linked together fortuitously to create mind-opening experiences that build to align with my greater vision. The moment when the unknown feels like home I’d say is when and where I’m at peace.
What is your greatest fear? My greatest fear is endless monotony I’d say. Getting stuck in a non-creative routine where I know what every part of my day will be before it plays out is absolute torture to me. I’d rather have ups and down, ebbs and flows than a security of structure that leaves no room for growth.
What is the trait you most deplore in yourself? Probably my anxiety. I definitely tend to overthink everything and have trouble keeping still. This also leads to insomnia which I also truly deplore, although I do get the majority of my best creative ideas in the middle of the night in these bouts.
What is the trait you most deplore in others? I really can’t stand fakeness and false promises. Honesty both of what is spoken and what is presented is the most important thing to me.
Which living person do you most admire? I’d have to say my parents. I know that’s two, but as a unit they’ve done so much for me to become who I am and support my creativity. They’ve also overcome a lot of struggle in their lives and never once growing up did I feel a sense of negativity or stress from them. They always wanted the best for my sister and I and maintained positive outlooks no matter how difficult the situation at hand.
What is your greatest extravagance? I really only splurge on food and wine. Probably more than is necessary at times but I’m a sucker for experience. If I’m at dinner and a friend spots a one-of-a-kind bottle on the wine list that’s outside my price range, there is very little chance we won’t be drinking it by the end of the night..
What is your current state of mind? I’m currently at peace in motion. After a lag of creativity during quarantine it feels good to be busy and working on a variety of projects that feed my creative soul. Stress is involved for sure but I’d much prefer that to stagnation.
What do you consider the most overrated virtue? Not that I’ve read the bible, but In those terms I’d say prudence is overrated in my book. Creatively, I believe in acting on gut instinct and overthinking can lead to wrong decisions and second guesses.
On what occasion do you lie? I try my best to be as honest as possible. When I’m asked small questions that I know the asker has already answered for themselves such as, “what should I text?” or “what sweater should I wear?” I’ll agree with them because I’d rather lend them confidence than disagree about something I don’t need to.
What do you most dislike about your appearance? I’ve always wished I didn’t have chubby cheeks but I’ve come to accept them and not stress too much about my appearance. There are so many much more important things to focus on. Every time I find myself nit-picking something about how I look, I realize it’s because I’m trying to distract myself from something I should actually be focused on.
Which living person do you most despise? Not to bring up politics, but the way the last four years were “run” was pretty despicable...I won’t go into detail, but I’m very happy powers changed before “he” literally destroyed the US..
What is the quality you most like in a man? Honestly, I admire passion and ambition but having a good sense of humor really does top the list. I think it’s very important to not take oneself too seriously and be funny and kind wherever possible.
What is the quality you most like in a woman? I’d say the same. I don’t see why characteristics of admiration should change based on gender.
Which words or phrases do you most overuse? There are probably many I can’t think of at the moment but I’m sure they’re all puns.
What or who is the greatest love of your life? I tend to fall in love with people and places quite easily, but I really have been in a fierce love affair with Paris ever since we met in middle school.
When and where were you happiest? Immediately, the first weeks of moving to Paris after high school come to mind. The newness and intensity of starting over in a beautiful, historical city with the sole purpose to study and create art completely changed my mindset and outlook on art and life.
Which talent would you most like to have? I sing and play guitar and drums a bit but I’m not good. I’d like to be very good.
If you could change one thing about yourself, what would it be? Despite trying to keep a positive outlook on everything, I’m definitely a worrier. I’d take away my unnecessary anxiety if I could.
What do you consider your greatest achievement? The first time The New Yorker published my work was definitely a big milestone for me, but there are so many experiences I feel so lucky to have accomplished and been a part of. The opening of Cherry On Top will definitely be up there as I’ve been dreaming of creating a space in which to tell my story for so long now. To see it come to life will truly be a great achievement for me.
If you were to die and come back as a person or a thing, what would it be? Definitely a bird. Knowing the feeling of flight would be all I would want. Maybe a seagull so I could live by the beach and feed off of picnic scraps and fresh fish.
Where would you most like to live? I’ve always struggled with this question. I think in this day and age there’s really no reason to have to choose just one. My ideal is spending a few months in one place then exploring another. I’d love to have bases in New York, Paris, and Maybe LA. I’m working on it.
What is your most treasured possession? The Tuscan scrap marble that I sourced to repurpose as cheese trays is pretty special to me. That trip was so magical, and everyone I met was so kind and creative. I was able to tour the marble processing facility there, where I noticed a giant pile full of beautiful, broken-up marble blocks of all shapes and colors. The owner, Mauro, told me he just throws them out so I asked if I could take some. He graciously said that he could send me a whole crateful as the facility ships to New Jersey for projects all the time. When the crate arrived I opened it to find not only a beautiful selection of marble scrap, but he had also sanded down each one perfectly to the same size. I was overcome by Mauro’s thoughtful kindness. I feel truly lucky to have these objects as a memento. Also, the fact that these marble blocks were used for prestigious projects around the world such as La Samaritaine in Paris and MOMA in New York, make them really precious to me, to have a part of that.
What do you regard as the lowest depth of misery? The lowest depth of misery for me, I think is watching life get destroyed by forces beyond your control. Dealing with illness and seeing loved ones deal with illness, being immobilized and helpless, and having internal strength be beaten down over and over. That is misery to me.
What is your favorite occupation? I have to say, I’m pretty happy with what I’m doing now. Combining food, wine, art and design is really a dream. If I were doing something else, I’d probably choose to be a travel show host in the vein of the inimitable Anthony Bourdain. It doesn’t really get much better than being paid to see the world and explore new cultures through food and conversations with locals. I’ll save that dream for later.
What is your most marked characteristic? Physically, I’m always pretty easy to spot by the blonde bun on top of my head. I’ve had people wave to me from blocks away, even with masks on. Beyond that, I’d say my love for, and use of bad puns.
What do you most value in your friends? I value honesty, compassion, and loyalty. Friends who are friends not just in the good times, but who I know I can rely on in the hard times as well.
Who are your favorite writers? Another hard question. As I’ve mentioned, I love playing with words and humor, and value authors who do the same. I always love Tom Robbins and David Sedaris for their quirky, funny tales that are like snack foods to me. I’m always sad when I get to the bottom of the bag, and always want more. I’m also a big fan of Richard Brautigan’s dry wit, Ben Lerner’s evocative narratives, and Murakami’s dreamlike escapes.
Who is your hero of fiction? I’m going to go with a childhood role model for this one and say Matilda. She overcame her unsupportive surroundings to cultivate light from her world of darkness. She also possessed telekinesis and used it to create a better education system for all? There are a lot of good lessons there.
Which historical figure do you most identify with? I like to think I have a connection with Dorothy Parker. Hopping around between social events, but sort of on the outside to comment on and consider them in a clever, considered, witty way. She definitely had an ‘anti-social, socialite’ demeanor I identify with.
Who are your heroes in real life? My mother is definitely my hero. She’s achieved so much in her life, and gone through so much including cancer and chemo when I was in middle school. She always kept a positive mindset through the whole thing and is always looking to give more than she receives. She’s always supported me no matter what and always lights up a room with her charisma and kindness.
What are your favorite names? I spend a superfluous amount of time thinking about names..when I wake up in the middle of the night one of my mind-calming techniques is going through the alphabet listing names starting with A (Alexis), then B (Bartholemew), C, and so on. I also think about nicknames a lot. When I was little, I wanted to have a daughter named Macadamia so I could call her Mac. I also like more classic-sounding names like Roman, Quentin, Earnest, James...I could go on and on.
What is it that you most dislike? Unnecessary drama.
What is your greatest regret? I try not to think about things I can’t change but if I could go back and stop myself from going to the forest in Switzerland where I got Lyme disease I probably would. It was the hardest experience I’ve ever been through and there were many times I thought I wasn’t going to make it. At this point, I feel very thankful I’m on the other side and at a point where it doesn’t control my life. I try to think of it as a lesson on the preciousness of life, but I definitely would not relive it if I had the choice.
How would you like to die? Spontaneously combusting maybe because it would make such a funny headline. “Wine bar owner and artist spontaneously combusts outside CVS on Grand St. in the LES.”
What is your motto? Lately, it’s been “Everyone’s got their own mishegas” which is a Yiddish saying I learned from my mother. It means everyone’s dealing with their own issues or ‘sh*t’. I use it when situations get frustrating and it seems easy to blame someone else. It conveys the idea that the only person we can really control is ourselves so there’s no point in stressing about anyone else’s opinions of us. Also, the idea that we don’t know what anyone else is going through and should never be quick to judge another person without knowing their story. Another two phrases I try to live by are “Be nice” and “Why not?”
Text: Veronica H. Speck