Copenhagen
Copenhagen, Denmark’s capital, sits on the coastal islands of Zealand and Amager. It’s linked to Malmo in southern Sweden by the Öresund Bridge. Indre By, the city's historic center, contains Frederiksstaden, an 18th-century rococo district, home to the royal family’s Amalienborg Palace. Nearby is Christiansborg Palace and the Renaissance-era Rosenborg Castle, surrounded by gardens and home to the crown jewels. Here is our guide to Copenhagen.
STAY
BERTRAMS One of our favorite parts of this boutique hotel is the outdoor garden—it's an an unexpectedly quiet, cozy place to have a drink in the middle of the city. In fact, the entire hotel feels more like visiting your friend's home, with an intimate downstairs lounge area that connects with the outdoor space and garden. Located in the heart of Vesterbro, the city's charming–and thriving–neighborhood that's brimming with design shops, cafés, and boutiques, this is an excellent place to stay if you want to be in the mix. (Pro tip: As customer service-driven this hotel is, it's not the best option for littles.) Vesterbrogade 107, Vesterbro; guldsmedenhotels.com
HOTEL ALEXANDRA Top-notch accommodations aside, this hotel houses an impressive collection of mid-century Danish design. The team has amassed vintage pieces over the years, making the entire stay here seem like a throwback to the early 1960's. Design enthusiasts should opt for the Collector's Suite, which was decorated by Anders Petersen, an avid collector of mid-century art and furniture. It's worth noting the hotel's location is within walking distance from the Latin Quarter, Tivoli Gardens, City Hall Square, and Strøget. H. C. Andersens Blvd. 8; hotelalexandra.dk
HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE Given its opulent, luxe interiors and old-world charm, it’s no surprise this historic hotel, 90 rooms strong, has been the site of many elite Danish events for more than two centuries. Founded in the mid 1700's, there’s a whimsical quality to this space, heightened by a recent refresh. Situated on the storied Nyhavn Canal, it's within minutes of the Royal Theatre and The King’s Garden. It's also home to the city's best spa. Kongens Nytorv 34; dangleterre.com
HOTEL SP34 Studious, clean, and efficient, Hotel SP34 is a new kid on the block, offering up a comfortable stay in the bohemian Latin Quarter, just a bit outside the city center. The space is made up of three townhouses, which lend a quaint, laid-back feel—think: grey-walled guest rooms, mid-century modern furnishings, and brass light fixtures. The terraced rooms offer floor-to-ceiling views of either the city or the courtyard. There's an outpost of Cocks and Cows, a local chain that serves Americana-style burgers, steaks, and BBQ fare. In the hotel lobby there's a complimentary wine hour that's a hit with the twentysomethings. Skt. Peders Straede 34; brochner-hotels.com
NOBIS A five-star luxury design hotel set in a historic building from 1903—a happy marriage between contemporary Danish design and timeless elegance. The 77 spacious rooms and suites include floor-to-ceiling marble bathrooms (equipped with Byredo toiletries!) and the most comfortable beds. The hotel is also home to the astounding restaurant Niels, offering quality modern Scandinavian cuisine, excellent service, and an out of this world breakfast buffet. Niels Brocks Gade 1; nobishotel.dk
HOTEL SANDERS Former ballet dancer Alexander Kølpin is behind this hotel and it’s anything but ordinary. Tucked away in a quiet street behind the Royal Ballet, you’ll easily be fooled by its unassuming exterior but inside is a paradise for fans of mid-century vintage and Danish modern design. It’s stunning. You can always swing by for a drink or get a coffee in the upstairs orangerie, it almost feels like travelling back in time. Tordenskjoldsgade 15; hotelsanders.com
CENTRAL HOTEL Maybe the world’s smallest hotel, and definitely located in one of the cutest streets in town, Tullinsgade. Perfectly squeezed in between posh Frederiksberg and hipster Vesterbro, the hotel has only one room. Tullinsgade 1, 161; centralhotelogcafe.dk
VILLA COPENHAGEN Located in the center of Copenhagen, this hotel is a small, sophisticated hub of design and gastronomy with a distinctive heritage. Tietgensgade 35, 39; villacopenhagen.com
CAFES
SONNY Run by couple Sara Wreschner and David Andersen, this French-inflected café is cozy but stylish with plenty of cushions, moody candles, and marble-topped round tables, plus a proper coffee bar. At breakfast, the chia pudding, acai, and eggs and rye bread are the things to order. Rådhusstræde 5, Indre By; sonnycph.dk
IPSEN & CO Located on a highly foot trafficked street in Fredericksburg, Ipsen & Co is a trendy café that doesn't come across as trying too hard. There are ample single and communal wooden tables and floor cushions. Aside from the consistently good coffee you find almost everywhere in Copenhagen, Ipsen & Co serves up vegetable-filled rye bread sandwiches and hearty soups that will keep you full until dinner. Gl. Kongevej 108, 1878 Frederiksberg; ipsenogco.dk
THE COFFEE COLLECTIVE Founded by four friends, the Coffee Collective is all about sustainability—meaning, all the beans are direct trade only and roasted to perfection in their own energy-efficient roaster. The café itself has a modernist vibe and is sparsely furnished with stone floors and low-hanging light bulbs. Jægersborggade 57, Nørrebro; coffeecollective.dk
PROLOG COFFEE In Copenhagen's rapidly gentrifying Meatpacking district, Prolog Coffee occupies what was the old neighborhood bookstore. It's one of those coffee shops that has indie magazines and books stacked on the counters, encouraging you to stay awhile and read. The best-kept secret here is their interpretation of the classic Italian afternoon pick-me-up, affogato: Prolog pours their coffee over soft serve ice-cream using a syringe and tops it with grated chocolate. Høkerboderne 16, Kødbyen; prologcoffee.com
CAFÉ DET VIDE HUS An ice-cream-meets-espresso bar, Det Vide Hus manages to stay busy round-the-clock: locals flock to this under-the-radar spot to grab their morning coffee, and later in the day for a sweet fix. Snag a spot at one of the wicker tables outside for some good people-watching. Gothersgade 113, Indre By
ATELIER SEPTEMBER A hybrid café, boutique, and creative studio, Atelier September is tucked into the cool, design-forward Gothersgade neighborhood. Here, Frederik Bille Brahe runs the cafe part of the operation, where he pours coffee and features a light food menu (boiled eggs, avocado toast). In the back of the space, designers Jonas and Annette Trampedach pull together an enviable mix of contemporary furniture, sixties Italian design, lights, and ceramics, as well as pieces from their own collection. Gothersgade 30, Gothersgade; cafeatelierseptember.com
MEYERS BAGERI Known for its organic bread, cakes, and most importantly, the best kanelsnurrer in Copenhagen (it's essentially a cinnamon bun layered with Vahlrona chocolate), Meyers Bageri is the brainchild of Danish entrepreneur and chef Claus Meyer. It's tiny (read: fits five people) so it's always packed. Get there early before everything sells out. Nordre Toldbod 16, Nørrebro; meyers.dk
RO CHOKOLADE The chocolates and ice cream sold at this tiny store are made in the back room—which explains the rich, chocolatey scent that wafts through the air. Don't expect the average run of the mill ice-cream scoops here—instead, flavors range from classic chocolate to exotic chili, star anise, and cinnamon. The chocolates are often cone-shaped and filled to the brim with truffle cream, or more Danish flavors like honey and elderflower. Jægersborggade 25, Nørrebro; ro-chokolade.com
GRANOLA Granola serves up the indulgent, sugar-and-caffeine-heavy breakfasts loved by the Danes. The interior is pure '50s nostalgia replete with vintage coffee makers, an old grocery counter, and a soundtrack to match. While they also offer comforting, fish-heavy, lunch and dinner options, the breakfast is your best bet, especially if you're looking for a break from Danish pastries—try their oatmeal with hazelnuts, coconut, and the obligatory cinnamon sugar. Værnedamsvej 5, Frederiksberg; granola.dk
ORSA A minimal coffee shop with excellent espresso. Vesterbrogade 46
PROLOG COFFEE BAR A relaxed space with outdoor seating offering artisanal coffee, ice cream sandwiches & other cafe fare. Høkerboderne 16; prologcoffee.com
DEMOCRATIC COFFEE Famous for selling the city’s best croissant. Krystalgade 15
THE UNION KITCHEN A classic breakfast, coffee, and lunch spot. theunionkitchen.dk
CAFE VICTOR Sophisticated Paris-meets-Copenhagen institution for drinks & classic Danish or French dishes. Ny Østergade 8; cafevictor.dk
PALEO A juice bar and paleo cafe. palaeo.dk
LAGKAGEHUSET The place for freshly baked bread and pastries. lagkagehuset.dk
BARS
BRUS Brus is probably the classiest brewpub you'll ever visit (despite being located in a gritty former iron foundry) with exposed brick walls, copper taps, and sculptural wood light fixtures illuminating the bar. Part of the To Øl brewery—founded by two former Mikkeller brewers—there are over twenty craft beers on tap. If the mood takes you, there are kegging and brewing classes available, but the more vacation-appropriate choice is to take a seat, order a few snacks, and get acquainted with a craft beer or two. Guldbergsgade 29F, Nørrebro; tapperietbrus.dk
BAR MIKKELLER Started by a former math teacher turned master brewer, Mikkeller is fast becoming one of Denmark's most successful micro-breweries. While the Mikkeller brews are sold at various spots around the world (including a new Mikkeller bar in DTLA), Copenhagen's Bar Mikkeller is the original spot, with up to twenty different taps. The space is a modern interpretation of a Danish pub, surprisingly light and airy with wooden furniture, gold fixtures, and a polished green floor. Viktoriagade 8, Vesterbro; mikkeller.com
VED STANDEN 10 Situated right on the canal opposite the stunning Christiansborg building (home of the Danish Parliament), Ved Standen 10 has a loyal following (read: always full). A favorite drinking spot for the city's best chefs, there's a broad selection of natural and biodynamic wines as well as craft beers on tap. The interior is incredibly inviting: floor-to-ceiling shelves are filled with wine bottles, and patrons sit at cozy round tables. The owners know how to keep it interesting—Monday nights play host to guest chefs of all levels and Wednesdays are reserved for tastings. The food is tapas style, ranging from cold cuts and cheese to roasted pork belly. You'll see the same people perched on stools, glasses in hand, every time—this bar is a neighborhood institution. Ved Standen 10; vedstranden10.dk
THE JANE Descending down the staircase to the cocktail bar sort of feels like walking onto a Mad Men set—which is exactly the retro vibe the owners are going for. Avoid the basement club space and instead stick to the more mellow, intimate cocktail bar. Settle into one of the comfortable armchairs or a discreet corner table in a room that resembles a cozy, wood-paneled library (there are actual shelves filled with books), and order a drink from the award-winning bartenders. Gråbrødretorv 8; thejane.dk
THE BARKING DOG This bar is an informal, relaxed spot for a drink with comfy sofas and a chic, checkerboard floor. The owners have gone for an upscale British pub vibe with plenty of beers and wine by the glass on the menu, as well as a solid mezcal selection. Unlike many bars in the city, the music is low enough to have proper conversations and the cozy seating invites you to linger through the evening. The owners have also put real thought into their non-alcoholic cocktail list, which features fresh juice blends with spicy kicks like chili and ginger for the more abstemious among us. Sankt Hans Gade 19, Nørrebro; thebarkingdog.dk
LIDKOEB Lidkoeb is one of the most hyggelig (warm and cozy, Danish-style) spots in Copenhagen. The interior is very cocktail-bar-meets-rustic-cabin with sheepskin throws over the backs of the leather seats, chevron redbrick floors, and a roaring open fireplace. Almost hidden upstairs, in the eaves of the attic, is the dark and moody, low-lit whiskey bar—perfect for an intimate drink with a significant other. Vesterbrogade 72B, Vesterbro; lidkoeb.dk
APOLLO BAR Chef Frederik Bille Brahe's (of Atelier September fame) latest food and wine venture has one of the most beautiful settings in Copenhagen—the modern art-filled Charlottenborg gallery. The restaurant space employs Mondrian-esque color blocking with navy velvet seats, white walls, and a red bar. No matter where you sit you'll catch glimpses of the marble busts and modern artworks housed in the adjacent gallery. A bonus in the warmer months is the picturesque courtyard, ideal for a pre-dinner drink. Nyhavn 2, Indre By; apollobar.dk
NAERVAER A cozy wine bar. beautifully set right by the water, close to the famous Noma. Strandgade 87 E; https://naervaer.dk/
BALTHAZAR The city’s chicest champagne bar, with a luxurious and international vibe. Strandgade 87 E, 1401; https://naervaer.dk/
RUBY The place to go for cocktails (try the Short Straw or El Diablo). Nybrogade 10; rby.dk
TRIO A restaurant and wine bar with a stunning view over the city. Axel Towers, Jernbanegade 11; restauranttrio.dk
DINE
LECKERBAER The unmistakable scent of sugar and dough baking in the oven hits you as soon as you enter this unassuming 16-seat patisserie. Founded in 2015 by chefs Jakob and Gabi Bär Mogensen, the whole idea behind Leckerbaer is to allow guests to sample several sweet treats at once. All the confections in the case are bite-sized and look more like miniature works of art; it goes without saying they taste incredible. We've heard good things about the profiteroles made with salted caramel and Oreo-style cookies, too. Ryesgade 118, Osterbro; leckerbaer.dk
ADMIRALGADE 26 Best described as Nordic-Japanese fusion, Admiralgade breaks Copenhagen's carb-loading breakfast tradition with a full Japanese spread (pickled fish, rice, miso soup). Open all day, the kitchen formally closes at 10 pm, but in the laid-back spirit of the city, the cooks rustle up sensational late-night snacks for the barflies. Aside from the food, the decor is another reason to make a reservation. The building dates as far back as 1796 but the interior is all washed stone walls, mismatched chairs, and bleached wood. Owned by the same people as the always full Ved Standed 10 wine bar, the wine list does not disappoint with a stellar selection available by the glass. Admiralgade 26, Indre By; Admiralgade26.com
FLEISCH The concept of a butcher-and-bar restaurant is fitting given Fleisch's meatpacking district location. If you want to try a traditional Danish smørrebrød, Fleisch does especially good versions with plenty of traditional pickled and smoked fish alongside the meat choices for lunch. The dinner menu is admittedly meat-heavy (it is a butchery after all), but dishes are lightened up with fresh and preserved fruit like gooseberries and redcurrants. The cocktail list is thoughtful and inventive with infusions like bacon-flavored bourbon and duck-fat-infused whiskey. Slagterboderne 7, Kødbyen; fleisch.dk
GEIST Geist is the place to kick off a night out: It has an energetic, friendly vibe and a menu that serves the plant-based crowd as well as those interested in heavier fare. Chef Bo Bech’s curiosity and creativity comes across in elegantly plated dishes that are easily shared, and the chef encourages diners to order what speaks to them—and then order more. It’s a familial dining experience, built on ingredients sourced from around the globe. The modern, design-forward interior is a visual palate cleanser in shades of cool grey, and you can also dine in the courtyard, surrounded by greenery. Kongens Nytorv 8, Indre By; restaurantgeist.dk
GERANIUM For the most part, even the most haute cuisine in Copenhagen is served in a relaxed, no-frills setting, but Geranium, with its white tablecloths and formal dining room, is an exception to the unspoken rule. Dining at this three-Michelin-star restaurant is an all-encompassing sensory experience—things that are typically inedible are re-imagined (razor clams are served in what look like their shells, but actually the shells are made of dough dyed black with squid ink) and some of the courses look more like sculptures than food. Situated on the glass-walled eighth floor of a building in the middle of the city's tree-filled faelledparken (common gardens) the view is spectacular, especially in the fall. The best visual however, is the semi-open kitchen, separated from the dining room by a glass wall—watching the chefs quietly prepare over twenty courses per person is the night's best entertainment. Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, Osterbro; geranium.dk
FISKEBAREN Fiskebaren is a fish bar contrarily located in an old butcher shop with a few on-theme relics hanging around, like a cutting block by the entrance and toilets in what used to be the walk-in fridge. All of this meat-centric history is offset by the huge fish tank in the middle of the restaurant. Despite having a Michelin star, Fiskebaren is completely unpretentious—white tile walls, chalkboards, no need to dress up or feel compelled to order several courses. The fish served are caught by the smaller coastal fisherman coming in and out of the harbor daily, meaning you will not find a restaurant serving fresher catch. Show up, take a seat at the bar, and order a few appetizers (try the cod's roe with sour cream), a dozen oysters, and a glass of cold white wine. Flæsketorvet 100, Kødbyen; fiskebaren.dk
BAEST If you've overloaded on Nordic cuisine and are craving something familiar, head to Italian-centric Baest. With their own in-house charcuterie operation, wood-fired pizza oven, and mozzarella hand-made by the kitchen's chefs, you'll struggle to find better Italian food outside of Italy. Baest uses only stone-ground flour to make their signature sourdough crust pizzas, charred to perfection and cooked to order. The interior is mom-and-pop style red brick walls, wooden tables, and simple polished stone floors. Reservations recommended. Guldbergsgade 29, Nørrebro; baest.dk
GRØD This is the world's first, self-proclaimed porridge bar—Grød literally translates to porridge. The founders wanted to showcase not only the humble dish's versatility but also its assimilation into regional cooking all over the world. Porridge is really just a grain cooked in liquid until soft and thick and Grød offers sweet and savory versions, cooked with several different grains, from traditional oats to barley and quinoa. If you feel like trying something other than the typical oats, milk, and fruit version, order the congee (savory, slow-cooked, Asian rice-based porridge). Jægersborggade 50, Nørrebro; groed.com
MIRABELLE More of a multi-functional, food-focused space than a traditional restaurant, Mirabelle operates as a restaurant, deli, and bakery in one. Given that they share a kitchen with Baest next door, it's no surprise that the menu is Italian-inflected, with especially good house-made pasta. The space is small and cozy with monochromatic checkerboard floors, a few tables, chalkboards, and freshly-baked loaves stacked on shelves above the coffee machines. The croissants and coffee to-go are a big hit with the locals, but if you choose to eat in, all your breakfast choices are served together on cute little utilitarian trays. Guldbergsgade 29, Nørrebro; mirabelle-spiseria.dk
PALAEGADE This is the ultimate destination to try the open-faced sandwiches, or smørrebrød, you'll notice on menus around town. Generally consisting of toasted and buttered rye bread, and topped with meat or fish and garnishes, the smørrebrød is a great vehicle for trying the smoked and pickled fish Denmark is famous for. Palægade serves over forty varieties of toppings at lunchtime, to be washed down by one of the beers or traditional aquavits (herb and spice infused liquor) they have on tap. Palægade 8, Indre By; formelfamily.dk
PATÉ PATÉ Occupying an old paté factory (hence the name) in Copenhagen's meatpacking district, Paté Paté serves up Spanish- and French-inflected cuisine all day long. Breakfast could be a simple omelet or Danish pastry, while the dinner menu has plenty of hard-core options for meat lovers, offset with lighter fish and vegetable dishes. The interior looks thoroughly lived-in, with vintage-y wooden furniture, candles in wine bottles, and strings of bare lightbulbs illuminating the space. A great spot for a casual dinner or glass of wine and the floor-to-ceiling windows are an added bonus—perfect for people watching. Slagterboderne 1, Kødbyen; patepate.dk
BROR Bror is Danish for brother; while not blood related, the restaurant was started by two friends and former Noma alums wanting to put their own spin on New Nordic cuisine. The concept at Bror may be simple (tasting menus with wine pairings), but the food is challenging and comforting all at the same time, featuring under-utilized parts of the animal (bull testicles, monkfish liver) cooked to perfection and elevated to fine-dining status. Small plates are served in advance of the tasting menu courses and can be anything from cod cheeks to mackerel heads. The wine list features only natural and organic wines reflecting the back-to-basics attitude that characterizes the food. Bror's founders wanted to show guests that the less desirable parts of the animal are no less delicious and for those of us concerned with sustainability, using the whole animal is paramount. If you're an adventurous eater, dinner at Bror is a no-brainer, but for the more squeamish among us there are plenty of vegetarian options and food intolerances are happily accommodated. Skt. Peders Stræde 24A, Indre By; restaurantbror.dk
FORMEL B Formel B specializes in contemporary-meets-classic Danish cuisine and has managed to remain on the top-tier of Copenhagen's fine-dining scene for over a decade. The cozy, chocolate-hued interior is immediately welcoming and hints at the comfort food to come. Echoing the attitude of much of Copenhagen's restaurant community, Formel B takes sustainability seriously, only serving fish sourced from Danish waters as well as produce from local farms. The wild duck with dehydrated cherries, Jerusalem artichokes, and spices is a quintessentially classic Danish dish and the perfect entrée for anyone sampling Nordic cuisine for the first time. Vesterbrogade 182, Frederiksberg; formelfamily.dk
RADIO Another stellar restaurant offering from Claus Meyer, in partnership with Jesper Kirketrop (formerly of Noma and Geranium), Radio celebrates back-to-basics Nordic cooking. The daily baked breads served at the restaurant are made using heritage grains specially selected from the Nordic Gene Bank (a truly admirable seed saving initiative). Guests can opt for a three- or five-course menu of organic, sustainably sourced food, much of it grown on a farm less than two miles from the city. The wood-clad walls contribute to the restaurant's earthy interior—the perfect rustic setting to enjoy the unpretentious but unapologetically Nordic dishes. Julius Thomsens Gade 12; restaurantradio.dk
LA BANCHINA This waterside café and restaurant is housed in what was once a waiting room for passengers boarding the ferry. With only two tables inside, the dining experience is an intimate one using mostly Nordic ingredients with some Italian influence. La Banchina often serves only one dish, which guests usually eat outside, cross-legged on the jetty with a glass of natural wine and some crusty bread. Refshalevej 141a, Christianshavn; labanchina.dk
HØST Höst has the most atmospherically beautiful dining room in Copenhagen (the critics agree, it's won several design awards). The look is renovated barn-meets-greenhouse, with white painted brick walls, rustic, raw-wood tables, and plenty of greenery in big terracotta pots. Sheepskin throws are slung haphazardly over the backs of some of the chairs and antique wood cooking tools line the walls. The set menu is three courses, but the kitchen sends out other surprise plates to try, making it more like six courses. While Höst's dishes are among the best you'll eat in this food-obsessed city, the birch bark ice-cream is next level. Nørre Farimagsgade 41, 1364; cofoco.dk
RESTAURANT BARR This just-opened restaurant—occupying the former Noma space right on the waterfront—is the brainchild of chef Thorsten Schmidt in collaboration with Rene Redzepi. Drawing its name from the Irish word for crops, which—thanks to the Viking invasions of 795 A.D.—is the same as Old Norse for barley, Barr serves the cold climate foods traditional to the North Sea (an area including the British Isles, Scandinavia, and Benelux). The menu is pure comfort food, re-imagined with a fine-dining slant—dishes like cabbage and nutmeg meatballs, schnitzel, and glazed cod with smoked bacon. The beautifully neutral space is more casual than its predecessor with simple tables and chairs, washed stone walls, and an old, wood-beamed ceiling. Even the bar is carved from large pieces of untreated and polished wood, with the copper beer taps forming the wall behind. The front-of-house does their best to accommodate walk-ins, and an added bonus is that Restaurant Barr is open for lunch Friday and Saturday. Keep in mind though, that this spot is best for adventurous eaters (ants are on the menu). Strandgade 93, Christianshavn; restaurantbarr.com/en/home
HALLERNES SMØRREBRØD Hallernes Smørrebrød's glass display cases at their stand in Torvehallerne Market are full of the artfully presented open-faced sandwiches that are this café's namesake. Small rye bread slices are topped with every Nordic ingredient imaginable—classic herring, liver paté, salmon... There are about three bites to each slice so order a few to-go, pick up a coffee from the nearby Coffee Collective, and spend an hour exploring this world-famous food market. Rømersgade 18, Indre By; hallernes.dk
42 RAW Copenhagen’s healthiest meal in a pared-back industrial-style eatery serving plant-based snacks & drinks to eat in or take away. Pilestræde 32; 42raw.dk
FAR’S DRENG Fars Dreng serves gourmet food with street cred. With handpicked organic produce and famous for brunch. Ny Adelgade 7; farsdreng.com
AAMANS 192 Owner, Adam Aamann, is also known as “the king smørrebrød” in Copenhagen where the bright interior, large brass chandeliers, and creative versions of the rye bread will welcome you. Niels Hemmingsens Gade 19-21; aamanns.dk
CALIFORNIA KITCHEN A surf-inspired lunch restaurant. californiakitchen.dk
MOTHER Try the wood-fired sourdough pizzas. Høkerboderne 9-15; mother.dk
HIJA DE SANCHEZ Authentic Mexican tacos. lovesanchez.com
FISKEBAREN
Cool industrial-style restaurant in the former meat market serving simple, fresh seafood dishes. Flæsketorvet 100; fiskebaren.dk
KIIN KIIN BAO BAO Asian tapas. Vesterbrogade 96; kiinbao.dk
VEVE Vegetarian restaurant by celebrated chef Henrik Yde Andersen, set in an old warehouse in Østerbro. Relish their creative pre-set menu, paired with either wines or juices. Dampfærgevej 7; veve.dk
PEDER OXE Craving some fish or meat? Head to the quaint classic restaurant in the city center. Gråbrødretorv 11; pederoxeskaelder.dk/
PLUTO One of the best dinners in town. Try their exceptional eight- or 12-dish set menus. Borgergade 16; https://restaurantpluto.dk/
DZIDRA DZIDRA A local favorite. The intimate space feels so much bigger than it is because of owners Isabella and Andrea’s warm and welcoming attitude—it feels like a place where everyone is welcome. Baldersgade 8; https://dzidra.dk/
SLOTSKAELDEREN HOS GITTE KIK This place is a total institution, politicians have gone for lunches here for decades as it’s just across from the parliament. A super traditional take on the ultra Danish open faced sandwich “smørrebrød” and absolutely worth a visit. Everything about it is so authentically Danish, which is kind of difficult to find anymore. Fortunstræde 4; https://slotskaelderen.dk/
BAKA D’BUSK Run by a set of young local Copenhagen chefs, this place always has a totally amazing casual vibe. The interior is eclectic, colourful and full of personality. Rantzausgade 44; bakabistro.dk
BAR PROPAGANDA The best place for Korean food in Copenhagen. Try a cold noodle salad, king oyster mushrooms, and rice cakes skewered on the grill. propagandakitchen.dk
SURT A cute little modern pizza spot in a sleepier part of town. Order a house-crafted Negroni and some wonderful copa and mortadella, and a margherita pizza. Bag Elefanterne 2; surtcph.dk
ART | CULTURE
DR KONCERTHUSET With a price tag of 300 million dollars, the new home of the Danish National Symphony Orchestra is also (so far) the second most expensively built concert hall in the world. Designed by French architect Jean Nouvel, the structure looks like a weirdly translucent blue cube. This is completely intentional: at night concert scenes are projected onto the cube's surfaces to share the experience of what happens inside with the community outside. While the exterior looks pretty industrial, the concert hall itself (which sits 1,800 people) is visually stunning—the yellow cedar-wood used throughout the space is warm and inviting, with handcrafted seats and an incredible 6,000-pipe organ. Ørestads Blvd. 13, Amager; drkoncerthuset.dk
LOUISIANA MUSEUM OF ART Called "Louisiana" as an ode to the original builder of the site, who had three wives—all called Louise—this waterside complex is one of the most unique places to appreciate modern art and sculpture in the world. The collection is hard to beat—two floors of Giacometti, works by Lichtenstein and Warhol, and the cosmic Yayoi Kusama installation—though the most moving experience is to be had outside in the Sculpture Park. Set against the shore of the Øresund Sound (the sea dividing Denmark from Sweden), dotted among the trees, you'll find the most incredible collection of over sixty sculptures, including works by Alexander Calder, Richard Serra, and Henry Moore. To see these literally larger-than-life sculptures in the outdoor setting most sculpture is made for, is truly spectacular. Gl. Strandvej 13, Humlebæk; louisiana.dk
ARNE JACOBSEN GAS STATION Texaco commissioned Jacobsen to create a new standard gas station model, which the architect completed in 1938. The new model was never implemented but the structure still functions as a gas station today (the modern gas pumps were added later). The station is essentially a concrete box clad in white ceramic tiles—the distinctive feature is the oval-shaped canopy above the pumps (affectionately called "the mushroom" by locals). While the canopy looks a little obsolete, Jacobsen's philosophy that every design element needs to have a function is definitely at play. The canopy acts as a shield from the rain by day and as a streetlight (the canopy is bottom-lit so the light diffuses to illuminate the whole station) by night—functional, beautiful, smart. Kystvejen 24, Northern Suburbs; architectuul.com
ARNE JACOBSEN BELLAVISTA Architect Arne Jacobsen is credited as being the founding father of modern Danish functionalist design. Jacobsen was prolific, producing over one hundred buildings throughout his career. The seaside town of Klampenbord is home to a whole complex of Jacobsen-designed buildings and structures, including a theater, housing complex, and beach cabanas. The architect won the commission for the site in the '30s and added more structures in the '50s, all in the international modernist style—white-washed walls, split-level apartments–to ensure sea views for all occupants. Strandvejen 419-451, Northern Suburbs; architectuul.com
FINN JUHL’S HOUSE Post World War II, the notion that good quality, aesthetically pleasing design could improve the daily life of Danes emerged—meaning that something totally utilitarian, like a chair or table, should also be beautiful. Architect and designer Finn Juhl, aside from being one of the founders of this new era of modern Danish design, built and furnished his own home in the spirit of this new movement's principles. Basically untouched since Juhl's death in 1989, his home acts as the perfect exhibition space for his work. The house is an early example of open-plan, with white walls and large windows drawing attention to the functional yet incredibly sculptural furniture. There is no design piece in this house that doesn't serve a purpose, so the space is simple and devoid of clutter. You'll see some of Juhl's most famous pieces like the Egyptian chairs (1949) and Poet sofa (1942) in their natural environment—the minimalist Danish home. Kratvænget 15, Northern Suburbs; ordrupgaard.dk
ASSISTENS KIRKEGARDE Arguably one of the most atmospheric cemeteries in the world, Assistens Kirkegarde is an oasis of calm in the middle of the city. Despite its primary function, the cemetery is not a somber place, locals use it almost like a park to exercise, relax, and read in. It's filled with trees making it a beautiful place to take in the fall colors as you walk around and study the tombstones of the notable Danes buried there (including every child's favorite fairytale author Hans Christian Andersen). Kapelvej 4, Nørrebro; kk.dk
DESIGNMUSEUM DENMARK This museum operates like a living Danish design catalog—all of Denmark's design history and ongoing evolution is recorded in the museum's archives and displayed through dozens of exhibits. Open to the public since 1895, the museum's mission is to bring an awareness and appreciation to quality, the element so inherent to Danish functional design. The 20th Century Design and Industrial Craft exhibit is super informative and a great launchpad for people unfamiliar with the subject. If you've seen your fill of furniture, there are also several fashion exhibits. Bredgade 68, Indre By; designmuseum.dk
DANSK MOBELKUNST Founded in 1992 by Ole Høstbo, this gallery specializes in super rare, original pieces of Danish furniture created between 1920-1970. The mid-century period was dominated by the belief that utilitarian equipment (like furniture) could be beautiful as well as functional, and enhance the daily living experience in the home. Here, you'll see a mix of antique Danish modern and industrial design pieces on show. Høstbo's exhibit also makes its way through the world's major art and design fairs, bringing this significant period of Danish design to a wider audience. Aldersrogade 6c, Osterbro; dmk.dk
BAGSVAERD KIRKE This is one of the most unusually designed churches you'll ever come across. Completed by Jørn Utzon (also the architect of the Sydney Opera House) in 1976, the white concrete exterior looks like a non-event, while all the visual drama is contained inside. Once through the doors, the effect is reminiscent of being in a cave—illuminated by hidden glass panels in the roof, the light bounces off the undulating white, pre-cast concrete walls, and white tile floor. In keeping with the soft palette, the pews and organ are done in bleached wood with no ornate details. Overall, the effect is incredibly soothing, the birch tree-covered landscape outside doesn't hurt either. Taxvej 14, Bagsværd; bagsvaerdkirke.dk
ORDRUPGAARD MUSEUM Home to an impressive collection of Golden Age Danish and French Impressionist art (including works by Renoir, Monet, and Manet), Ordrupgaard Museum's most interesting design addition is the late Zaha Hadid's extension completed in 2005. Hadid's building is intended to be a continuation of the landscape with no real defined form. As you walk through the galleries inside, the ceilings rise and fall with the terrain and there are constant splashes of greenery courtesy of the many windows. The exterior is a mix of black lava concrete and glass that reflects the changing colors of the landscape, the concrete roof in particular can look almost multi-textural when clouds pass overhead.Vilvordevej 110, Northern Suburbs; ordrupgaard.dk
GALLERI NICOLAI WALLNER Galleri Nicolai Wallner, the biggest contemporary art space in Copenhagen, has recently moved from their old Carlsberg brewery location to a brand new studio. With several different forms of artistic media represented, the idea behind this gallery is to commit to exploring the same generation of artists long-term. For the repeat visitor this is a pretty interesting visual experience as you can chart the artist's evolution and development over time, but, even for one-time visitors, the industrial-style location and volume of artists showing make it well worth a visit. Glentevej 47-49, Nørrebro; nicolaiwallner.com
AMALIENBORG ROYAL PALACE Amalienborg is the official residence for the Danish royal family, and is located in Copenhagen, Denmark. Frederick VIII's Palace is the residence of King Frederik X and Queen Mary. Amalienborg Slotsplads 5; kongernessamling.dk
CHRISTIANBORG PALACE Christiansborg Palace is a palace and government building on the islet of Slotsholmen in central Copenhagen, Denmark. It is the seat of the Danish Parliament, the Danish Prime Minister's Office, and the Supreme Court of Denmark. Prins Jørgens Gård 1; kongeligeslotte.dk
COPENHAGEN OPERA HOUSE The Copenhagen Opera House is the national opera house of Denmark, and among the most modern opera houses in the world. It is also one of the most expensive opera houses ever built at a cost of 2.5 billion DKK. It is located on the island of Holmen in central Copenhagen. Ekvipagemestervej 10; kglteater.dk
THE LITTLE MERMAID The Little Mermaid is a bronze statue by Edvard Eriksen, depicting a mermaid becoming human. The sculpture is displayed on a rock by the waterside at the Langelinie promenade in Copenhagen, Denmark. It is 1.25 metres tall and weighs 175 kilograms. Langelinie, 2100
ROYAL DANISH LIBRARY Royal Danish Libary is Denmark's national library. kb.dk
GLYPTOTEKET Stroll among French paintings from masters like Monet, Cézanne, and van Gogh, and ancient Egyptian, Greek, and Roman sculptures from the 19th and 20th centuries.
FREDERIK’S CHOICE Frederik's Church, popularly known as The Marble Church for its rococo architecture, is an Evangelical Lutheran church in Copenhagen, Denmark. The church forms the focal point of the Frederiksstaden district; it is located due west of Amalienborg Palace. Frederiksgade 4; marmorkirken.dk
ROSENBORG Rosenborg Castle is a renaissance castle located in Copenhagen, Denmark. The castle was originally built as a country summerhouse in 1606 and is an example of Christian IV's many architectural projects. Øster Voldgade 4A; kongernessamling.dk
BOTANICAL GARDEN The University of Copenhagen Botanical Garden, usually referred to simply as Copenhagen Botanical Garden, is a botanical garden located in the centre of Copenhagen, Denmark. It covers an area of 10 hectares and is particularly noted for its extensive complex of historical glasshouses dating from 1874. Gothersgade 128; snm.ku.dk
NYHAVN Nyhavn is a 17th-century waterfront, canal and entertainment district in Copenhagen, Denmark. Stretching from Kongens Nytorv to the harbour front just south of the Royal Playhouse, it is lined by brightly coloured 17th and early 18th century townhouses and bars, cafes and restaurants.
CHRISTIANIA Freetown Christiania, also known as Christiania or simply the Staden, is an intentional community and commune in the Christianshavn neighbourhood of the Danish capital city of Copenhagen. It began in 1971 as a squatted military base.
TAGE ANDERSEN A beautiful floral museum and boutique in Copenhagen. It has a beautiful courtyard with a fountain. I have been going there ever since I was a child. My mom would take me there all the time. It’s a wonderful hidden gem with a great selection of flowers and objects. Ny Adelgade 12; tage-andersen.com
SHOP
THE APARTMENT Tina Seifenfaden Busck had a decade in Sotheby's under her belt when the apartment below her home, in an 18th-century residential building in Christianshavn, came up for sale. The space hadn't been touched in over forty years, so Busck restored the three-room Georgian apartment completely, right down to the oak floors dating from the 1780's. The space is a home once again, but this time, a Danish design-piece filled, completely shoppable one. The set-ups change regularly, thanks to Busck's frequent sourcing trips for Swedish, French, and Italian pieces from the 40s, 50s, and 60s. Overgaden neden Vandet 33, Christianshavn; theapartment.dk
STINE GOYA Copenhagen style can veer a bit austere, but model-turned-designer Stine Goya sought to change that with the launch of her namesake label. A graduate of London's Central St. Martins, Goya infuses her trademark feminine details onto everything from flowy silk dresses to sparkly boots and outerwear. The store's interiors are worth a visit alone (think: a primarily blush palette accented with brass, marble, and plush velvet details). Gothersgade 58, Gothersgade; stinegoya.com
LOT #29 Designed to feel like you've stumbled upon a treasure trove of not-so-basic fashion, Lot#29 stocks everything from that Rachel Comey sweater that's sold out everywhere, to the Carthusia perfume you thought you could only get in Italy. Gothersgade 2, Gothersgade; lot29.dk
LINE & JO Line & Jo makes the most elegant, dainty pieces of jewelry, with intricate metalwork that's not quite like anything else. Despite the modern aesthetic, everything there is crafted by hand from artisan goldsmiths, so it's also built to last. Gothersgade 31, Gothersgade; Lineandjo.com
STORM Rasmus Storm has been an influential force in the Scandinavian street style scene for decades, and his storefront in Copenhagen remains a necessary stop for culturephiles. He stocks a selection of everyday staples like cool sneakers, sweatshirts, beanies, and graphic tees, but there are also tons of cool books and lots of interesting jewelry. It's a great place to pick up gifts to take back home. Store Regnegade 1, Indre By; stormfashion.dk
GANNI Ganni's reach is pretty far beyond Copenhagen at this point, but there's nothing quite like visiting the designer's storefront in their hometown. Run by husband-and-wife pair Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup, the brand still has a family company feel, with Ditte handling the creative side and Nicolaj running the business. They're great in every category, but we love them best for flirty, easy dresses and the coolest winter-ready boots, which, incidentally, look pretty great together. Store Regnegade 12, Indre By; ganni.com
HOLLY GOLIGHTLY Owner Barbara Maj Husted Werner has assembled a tightly edited assortment that mixes emerging talent with more established designers like Alaïa, Marni, and Rick Owens. It's worth pointing out that there are two locations: The Gammel Mønt location focuses on clothes, while around the corner at Store Regnegade is a smart edit of accessories. Gammel Mønt 2, Indre By; hollygolightly.dk
HENRIK VIBSKOV In addition to fashion design, Henrik Vibskov does installation artwork and performs music, which helps explain his avant-garde approach to fashion–he's known for bright colors, bulky and unexpected shapes, and unusual, mismatched textures. Vibskov is one of relatively few Scandinavian designers that shows in Paris, and is famous for the theatrical perspective he brings to each show and his bright, outlandish aesthetic, which is in some ways antithetical to the minimalism of many of his Copenhagen peers. His shop is actually multi-label, so in addition to his own pieces, you can sift through Missoni scarves, unicorn-fringed Angel Chen sweaters, and Michiko Koshino rain jackets. Krystalgade 6, Indre By; henrikvibskov.com
ANOTHER NUÉ Nue's original shop is in Frederiksberg, but we prefer their second location, Another Nué, which is closer to the center of the city and has a larger selection. The edit is a mix of Danish brands and international names, with everything from 3.1 Phillip Lim and Acne to Lovechild and Skall Studio (which makes the prettiest pajamas, among other items). Krystalgade 3, Indre By; anothernue.com
WOOD WOOD This streetwear concept shop (which has locations in Berlin and Copenhagen) has a warm, clean aesthetic and stocks graphic sweatshirts and tees, plus installations displaying every cool-kid shoe imaginable. Be sure to check out whatever collaboration they currently have going on–they do a few a year, with past partners including Adidas, Barbour, Nike, Champion, and more. Grønnegade 1, Indre By; woodwood.com
MADS NØRGAARD Mads Nørgaard is the third generation of Nørgaards to work in the fashion business; in fact, his grandfather's shop was located at the same storefront his store is in now. It's great for not-quite-basic pieces, like soft striped turtleneck tees, graphic sweaters, and straightforward suede pumps. Don't leave without taking a spin through the kids section. Amagertorv 13-15, Indre By; madsnorgaard.dk
ILLUMS BOLIGHUS Another incredible furniture and design emporium in a city celebrated for its aesthetic, Illums Bolighus stocks everything you could possibly need to create a modern Scandinavian-style home. Furniture, bed linens, lamps, window treatments, bathrobes—visiting this emporium is like walking through an edit of the best home collections from Denmark's design heavyweights. Literally impossible to leave empty-handed. 10 Amagertorv, Indre By; illumsbolighus.com
STILLEBEN Upon meeting at Art College in Denmark, designers Ditte Reckweg and Jelena Schou Nordentoft bonded over their shared love of ceramics, glass, and craftsmanship. The duo named their joint venture Stilleben, after the German art genre that describes the depiction of inanimate objects. The space itself is made up of pastel-hued walls and minimalist shelving—the perfect backdrop to display Reckweg and Nordentoft's hand-selected treasures—everything from Japanese tea pots to Danish textiles. The shelves are also stocked with their own branded prints, ceramics, and tableware. Niels Hemmingsensg. 3, Indre By; stilleben.dk
NORMANN COPENHAGEN Housed in an old movie theater, Normann is somewhat of a pilgrimage for design lovers. Founded by Jan Andersen and Poul Madse back in 1999, it's probably best known for the Norm 69 lamp, a stunning geometric, white plastic lantern that's been copied almost everywhere. Today, they make a full range of design pieces from sofas and chairs to carpets and bookcases, all in their signature sleek, mid-century-inspired style. Even if you're not furniture shopping, it's worth stopping in to see their incredible staging, which usually includes dramatic, colorful installations. Østerbrogade 70, Osterbro; normann-copenhagen.com
NORSE STORE WOMEN Norse Store first gained a following as a multi-brand store in downtown Copenhagen, so its own-brand men's clothing, which launched in 2009, was an immediate success. Unsurprisingly, their new women's shop (just around the corner from their original store right in the center of the city), was a long time coming—and so worth the wait. For starters, there's the elegant, modern interior that juxtaposes plush carpets against raw wood shelving. The buy of women's clothes is a delicately curated mix of high-concept minimalist fashion like APC rain jackets and knit Missoni pants, accessibly priced classics from brands like Adidas and Hestra, and their own sea-inspired line, which has perfect Breton-striped shirts and classic sweaters built for surviving a Scandinavian winter. There's also a great selection of books, bags, and other high-design gift items. Pilestræde 39 St., Indre By; norsestore.com
HAY HOUSE Head to this airy design store, which occupies an amazing two-story space connected by an iron spiral staircase, for affordable takes on the furniture design you've been ogling in the big-ticket showrooms. Even if you're not planning to bring home a couch, they have plenty of carry-on-friendly home accessories, like vases, books, and kitchen wares. Østergade 61, Indre By; hay.dk
CERAMINKER INGE VINCENTS What makes Inge's pieces special is the paper-thin porcelain she uses, which gives each cup, vase, or bowl a delicate, translucent aesthetic, particularly in the light. She only works in white, which is all the better to let her unique shapes come through. She's usually working in her studio, so take advantage of the opportunity to chat with her about her work when you stop in. Jægersborggade 27, Nørrebro; vincents.dk’
FERM LIVING A curated lifestyle boutique with vintage, greenery & lifestyle items. Kuglegårdsvej 1; fermliving.dk
ILLUM Sprawling, sophisticated 5-floor mall with luxe designer goods & a rooftop restaurant. Østergade 52; illum.dk
BEAU MARCHÉ Art, contemporary & vintage furniture, objects, café à vins & bistrot. Ny Østergade 32; beaumarche.dk
JEROME VINTAGE The finest curation of whether you are looking for a playful little glitter bag from the 80’s or an enchanting evening gown from the 40’s by Christian Dior—Jerome has it all. Vesterbrogade 36; wearephoenix.dk
TIME’S UP It’s a vintage store and they have the most amazing Chanel vests. The trick is to ask for the special ones in the backroom. Krystalgade 4; timesupshop.com
JAEGERSBORG ALLEY A great shopping street, stop in Leah Marie.
BREDGADE Sharing a corner with Nyhavn (the New Harbour), Bredgade is the best place to unearth antiques. The street is filled with auction houses and antique stores. It gives a perfect overview of Danish design over the centuries.