Florence
Santa and Serena Antonelli taking tea on the terrace of their home above Via Giucciardini, Florence, Italy, 1983, Slim Aarons.
Florence, capital of Italy’s Tuscany region, is home to many masterpieces of Renaissance art and architecture. One of its most iconic sights is the Duomo, a cathedral with a terracotta-tiled dome engineered by Brunelleschi and a bell tower by Giotto. The Galleria dell'Accademia displays Michelangelo’s “David” sculpture. The Uffizi Gallery exhibits Botticelli’s “The Birth of Venus” and da Vinci’s “Annunciation.” Here is our city guide to Florence, Italy.
STAY
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL FIRENZE Rooms at the Four Seasons occupy both an opulently restored palazzo and a converted sixteenth-century convent. The hotel could almost double as a museum, filled with original works of art, antiques, frescoes, and decorative stucco. The setting—eleven acres of shaded, manicured gardens—is blissfully peaceful and quiet, especially after a busy day exploring the Uffizi galleries and the Duomo (a fifteen-minute walk away). Fittingly, the spa uses products from Santa Maria Novella, the Florentine beauty company, in its own stand-alone, ten-treatment-room building, and the twenty-seven-meter lap pool is heaven on hot summer afternoons. There’s even a Michelin-starred restaurant, Il Palagio, a formal dining room with vaulted ceilings and views of the garden that specializes in pasta and seafood, with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. Borgo Pinti, 99; fourseasons.com/florence
VILLA SAN MICHELE, A BELMOND HOTEL Set on a hilltop, this elegant hotel in a former 15th-century monastery surrounded by gardens. Enjoy aperetivo at sunset in the gardens overlooking Tuscany. Via Doccia, 4; belmond.com/hotels/europe/italy/florence
PORTRAIT FIRENZE The heavenly scented Ferragamo personal-care products in the bathroom are one of the few discreet hints as to who owns this sublime thirty-seven suite hotel. The soft dove-grey interiors are designed by Michele Bonan with a nod to mid-century modernism, and little touches—cashmere throws, the ability to pick the pillows on your bed, the flowers in every room—all add to a feeling of unparalleled comfort. Book a river-facing room and enjoy breakfast wrapped in that cashmere blanket on your personal balcony right above the Arno. Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli, 4; lungarnocollection.com/portrait-firenze
VILLA CORA For a step into the Baroque, there’s Villa Cora, which was once owned by Napoleon’s widow, the Empress Eugénie. It’s known for opulent, spacious interiors and is situated within a city park that overlooks the Boboli Gardens—it’s a perfect starting point for exploring Florence on foot. Viale Machiavelli, 18; villacora.it
HELVETIA & BRISTOL FIRENZE An elegant hotel in a building dating from the 19th century is a minute's walk from Palazzo Strozzi and the shops along Via Tornabuoni. Via dei Pescioni, 2; collezione.starhotels.com/en/our-hotels/helvetia-and-bristol-florence
THE PLACE The Place townhouse in the heart of Santa Maria Novella (don't miss the 800-year-old pharmacy just around the corner) has just undergone a refresh courtesy of Luigi Fragola Architects. The textural interior and intentionally mismatched Richard Ginori tablescapes embody colorful, Florentine flair. With just twenty rooms, the hotel feels more like a Florentine’s plush home than a hotel. In the winter months, drinks are served by the roaring fire in the lobby, but even if you aren’t staying here, come for the hotel’s weekend brunch or Tuesday aperitivo, both famous in the city. P.za di Santa Maria Novella, 7; theplacefirenze.com
HOTEL LUNGARNO Hotel Lungarno, owned by the Ferragamo family, is designed to feel like a maritime-inflected period townhouse with incredible views from every room. Conveniently located on the south bank of the River Arno, the hotel is also home to an impressive art collection, including a few Picassos. Borgo S. Jacopo, 14; lungarnocollection.com/hotel-lungarno
SOPRARNO SUITES Oltrarno is the Brooklyn to Florence’s Manhattan—and Soprarno Suites is right at home in this more bohemian part of town. Owners Betty Soldi and Matteo Perduca have infused their eleven-room hotel with an artistic, relaxed bed-and-breakfast feeling. Rooms are spacious and feel more like studio apartments than hotel rooms. A stand-alone bathtub takes up a corner of each bedroom (not the bathroom), and it’s easy to linger in it while staring at the frescoed ceiling above. All the rooms are individually decorated and filled with curiosities as well as Soldi’s own artwork. Via Maggio, 35; soprarnosuites.com
ST. REGIS Occupying a fifteenth-century, Brunelleschi-designed Renaissance palace, the St. Regis is, like the Four Seasons, a sumptuous historical experience. Rooms are worthy of the architecture, with plenty of velvet and silk accents; many have views of the Arno. Take full advantage of the hotel’s knowledgeable concierge and services, which include tours of the city and countryside in house Bentley, as well as tours of Florence’s galleries and museums with the hotel’s own in-house curator. Piazza Ognissanti, 1; marriott.com/en-us/hotels/flrxr-the-st-regis-florence
OTTANTOTTO FIRENZE Only seven rooms are spread over four floors with a lush, secret garden. The overall aesthetic here is botanical. The ornate wallpaper throughout features a medley of flora and fauna, the pictures hanging on the walls detail rare flowers and birds, and the little courtyard teeming with plants is the icing on the cake. Guest rooms are outfitted with old antiques, huge beds, and all the old bones of the building (like the beamed ceiling and wall paneling) have been maintained. Via dei Serragli, 88; ottantottofirenze.it
PALAZZO DI CAMUGLIANO A former family residence, which still retains its 16th-century foundation with a hint of modernity. Rooms are furnished with antique elements, and details of frescos still remain on some of the ceilings. This boutique-style hotel has only ten rooms, each of which overlooks a garden area—a regal setting for such an intimate, hidden hotel on a residential street. Via del Moro, 15; palazzodicamugliano.com
HOTEL SAVOY Rocco Forte Group’s Hotel Savoy is located in the center of Piazza della Reppublica between the Uffizi Gallery and the Duomo, walking distance from, shops, restaurants, and Florentine nightlife. The eighty-eight elegantly modern-styled suites are the perfect refuge from the bustle and noise of the city, with parquet floors and mosaic bathrooms. Try to book a room on the top floor which overlooks idyllic side streets and flower-lined rooftops. Make sure to have at least one meal at their restaurant, Irene—a Tuscan-inspired eatery (think truffles, stracciatella soup, and bistecca alla fiorentina) that has plenty of healthy options you can rarely find in Italy, such as quinoa and a hearts of palm salad. The kitchen is manned by Michelin-starred chef, Fulvio Pierangelini, and offers what is truly the best selection of bruschetta in town—order the mozzarella with truffle, you’ll never look at bruschetta the same way again. Piazza della Repubblica, 7; roccofortehotels.com/it/hotels-and-resorts/hotel-savoy
VILLA IL SANTO This incredible historical luxury villa the Chianti countryside was built in 1000AD and recently renovated. Villa Il Santo retains its original soul. Villa Il Santo is enviably situated, hidden on a Chianti hilltop yet only a short drive from key international airports in Florence and Pisa. Strada Petrognano 27, 50021 Barberino Val d’Elsa; villailsanto.com
LA GEMMA A family-owned hotel by the Cecchi family, run by 5 siblings, including Mariasole Cecchi the founder of the fashion and accessory brand Les Petits Jouers. La Gemma is an emerald green Art Deco jewel box of a hotel, tucked away on a side street 5 minutes from the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio and the Uffizi Gallery. Luca restaurant by Luca’s Restaurant by Chef Paulo Airaudo has a Michelin Star. Via dei Cavalieri, 2/C; lagemmahotel.com
ANTICA TORRE A boutique hotel located in a striking medieval tower dating from 13th century. Via de' Tornabuoni, 1; tornabuoni1.com
HOTEL NUMBER NINE A boutique hotel housed in a seventeenth-century palazzo in the city center, two minutes’ walk from the Duomo. Spa Number Nine has a jacuzzi, a sauna, and a Turkish bath as well as a pilates studio, fitness center, and a phalanx of instructors and personal trainers. Via dei Conti, 9; firenzenumbernine.com
CASTELFALFI Located an hour and a half from Florence in the Tuscan countryside, but well worth the journey. This luxury spa resort includes golf, tennis, and fine dining. Località Castelfalfi; castelfalfi.com
RELAIS LA CORTE DEI PAPI An 18th-century restored country house, this rustic luxury spa hotel is located in the charming town of Cortona - famous for its appearance in Under The Tuscan Sun. Via La Dogana, 12; Cortona; lacortedeipapi.com
DRINK | DINE
GUCCI OSTERIA DA MASSIMO BOTTURA Tasting menus by Chef Massimo Bottura featuring imaginative variations on Italian classics (including his famous Emilia burger based on Shake Shack) next to the Gucci Museum. P.za della Signoria, 10; gucciosteria.com
ATELIER DE NERLI A traditional Tuscan osteria featuring pink walls and high design by Italian fashion designer Roberto Cavalli’s son Daniele Cavalli. Piazza dei Nerli, 8r/10r, 50124 Firenze FI
CAFFÉ GILLI The oldest café in Florence was founded (ironically) by a Swiss family in 1733, initially as a bozzolari, or doughnut shop. These days, the sweet selection has expanded to include hundreds of traditional Italian pastries, chocolates, cakes, and nougat. The interior resembles a grand stateroom, with wood-paneled walls, stucco detailing, and glittering chandeliers. Despite the elegant allure of a seat inside at breakfast time, the afternoon cocktail hour is best enjoyed outside. Sit at a table with a spritz and the accompanying assortment of sandwiches and snacks and watch the world fly by. Via Roma, 1r; caffegilli.com
TRATTORIA SOSTANZA Busy, casual, and no-frills Sostanza is the Florentine equivalent of your reliable neighborhood standby. The food is traditional and tasty, and it hits the spot: simple pastas, tender grilled meats, and house Chianti. The space is tiled and tiny, and the delicious plates of artichoke omelets, reasonably priced steak Florentine, and their famous buttered chicken make Sostanza a definite don't-miss. Order the chocolate-chip meringue with tiny, wild strawberries. Via del Porcellana, 25/R, 5
IL LATINI Friendly tavern for homestyle Tuscan fare & regional wines in a dining room hung with cured meats. Via dei Palchetti, 6R; latinifirenze.com
VIVOLI GELATERIA The storefront at Vivoli is so under the radar you could easily miss it but for the little neon sign above the doorway. The gelato here is made fresh daily from the finest eggs, dairy, and whatever ingredients are currently in season—pear and green apple in the fall, apricot, and melon in the summer. Stop into some of the neighboring leather stores afterward, as the area of Santa Croce is famous for them. Via Isola delle Stinche, 7r; vivoli.it
13 GOBBI Despite being a few minutes from Piazza Santa Maria Novella and a stone’s throw from Florence’s most popular hotels, 13 Gobbi feels like a local secret. The chatter that fills the room is mostly Italian, the old wooden chairs and tables, black-and-white photographs on the brick walls, and generally laid-back, rustic air is distinctly Tuscan. The food even more so—grilled steak Florentine served medium rare and room temperature (as it’s meant to be), white beans and spinach, and the most perfect plates of homemade spaghetti al pomodoro. Take a seat in the leafy courtyard and order all of the above plus a caprese salad and a bottle of the vino rosso della casa. Via del Porcellana, 9R; casatrattoria.com/trattoria-13-gobbi
ALLA VECCHIA BETTOLA With its floor-to-ceiling tiles, hanging cured meats, rustic wood tables dotted with carafes of house red, and bottles of oil and vinegar—to be liberally doused on salads—Alla Vecchia Bettola is the essence of Florence. Open since the late ’70s, the restaurant’s staying power is rooted in its solid, no-fuss menu of tender steak Florentine, desserts of fresh fruit and tiramisu, and of course, pasta. Viale Vasco Pratolini, 3/5/7
BORGO ANTICA This relaxed trattoria in the Santo Spirito neighborhood is one of the better places anywhere in the city for satisfying basics, like pizza and pasta al pomodoro. Piazza Santo Spirito, 6-red; borgoanticofirenze.com
BRAC It’s not easy to come by vegan food in Italy, and it’s basically impossible to come by good vegan food. Libreria Brac is the exception to the rule. A restaurant-meets-bookstore-meets-bar, it’s run by a group of young Italians looking to modernize the city’s cuisine (if just a little). Have a glass of wine as you browse through the selection of design and culinary books or head straight to the restaurant for dishes like a zucchini and cashew cheese galette, hearty soups and salads, and delicious vegan pastas. Via dei Vagellai, 18/R
BUCA MARIO Buca Mario does the Florentine classics well, but also seafood—which isn’t as common in the city as you might think. Order a grilled fish or pasta dish (there are gluten-free options) and the gnocchi, which has a sharp, rich gorgonzola sauce. Don’t skip dessert—it comes wheeled out on an old-world trolley, displaying various fruit tarts and tiramisu. Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16r
ENOTECA PINCHIORRI If you’re looking for Michelin stars (plural) in Florence, Enoteca Pinchiorri is your place. A former Renaissance palazzo, the wine cellar alone is rumored to be the most expensive—and expansive—in the world, with over 70,000 bottles. The food, meanwhile, is wildly inventive (pigeon cooked under a salty cocoa bean crust with mango chutney, red mullet fillets wrapped in Tuscan bread with candied fennel purée in extra virgin olive oil and stewed sea snails). Ask to sit in the restaurant’s beautiful, airy courtyard to listen to the live pianist. Via Ghibellina, 87; enotecapinchiorri.it
IL SANTO BEVITORE Maybe it’s the dozens of lit candles and their gentle, suffused light. Maybe it’s the army of wine bottles against the wood-paneled walls. Or maybe it’s the knowledge that we’re about to eat a really, really good dinner that makes us return here over and over again. Artichoke-stuffed squid, rich duck breasts, and hearty risotto are all reasons to come in for dinner. If there’s a wait, have a glass of wine at nearby Santino for the perfect start to the evening. Via Santo Spirito, 64r; ilsantobevitore.com
TRATTORIA CAMILLO Oltrarno—literally, the other (oltro) side of the Arno—is home to some of the city’s best restaurants. Trattoria Cammillo is that kind of old-world, white-tablecloth, monogrammed-plates place that serves up simple Tuscan food, elevated with perfect ingredients and careful preparation. The menu is seasonal, and autumn is our favorite time to stop in for one reason: ribollita. Translating directly as “reboiled,” this traditional soup is made of layers of vegetables, beans, and stale bread (and it’s much more appetizing than it sounds). After starting with a bowl of this Tuscan staple, try the celery, egg, and bottarga side dish (which can be a meal in itself.) Borgo S. Jacopo, 57/r
CIBRÉO An iconic restaurant in Sant'Ambrogio that has turned the idea of traditional cuisine into a cult with its informal, fashionable atmosphere, young, confident staff, and fine, inventive cuisine inspired by traditional dishes. Via Andrea del Verrocchio, 8r; cibreo.com/sant-ambrogio/ristorante
HARRY’S BAR Harry’s Bar in Venice is most famous for reputedly creating the sublime peach-purée-and-prosecco mashup that is the Bellini. The Florence outpost has the same sense of frivolity as its Venetian counterpart, and taking a seat at the bar and watching the white-jacketed barman whizz up the signature cocktail is a fun way to pass an hour or two. The space is elegant and charmingly old-fashioned with chevron floors and pink tablecloths. If Bellinis aren’t your thing, you can’t go wrong with the expertly made Negroni Sbagliato and the best steak tartare in Florence. Via Il Prato, 40/R; sinahotels.com
LA TERRAZA AT HOTEL CONTINENTAL Florence at dusk is pure magic. And there’s no better observation point (other than perhaps Piazzale Michelangelo) to soak up the changing colors of the evening sky than at La Terrazza. The bar is (as the name suggests) a small terrace hovering over the Arno, buffered from the winter wind and summer scorch by stone walls on three sides. Book a seat for sunset and prepare for the best view in town. Vicolo dell'Oro, 6r; lungarnocollection.com/la-terrazza-rooftop-bar
DONDINO Grab a table outside at this little local wine bar and take in every nook and cranny of the stunning Church of Santa Croce as you sip your Vino Nobile. In the winter months, retreat inside to the warm bar with its stone walls, candles, and platters of charcuterie. Piazza di Santa Croce, 6/red
MANIFATTURA In the little-known Piazza San Pancrazio, Manifattura is quietly shaking up Florence’s sleepy cocktail scene, under the expert direction of master mixologist Fabiano Buffolino. The aesthetic is that of a 1950s lounge, replete with lacquered tables, suited-up barmen, and an impressive inventory of nearly one hundred Italian Amari. The menu is an ode to Italy’s older drinking traditions, full of Italian sodas, vintage liqueurs, and several classic prosecco cocktails that go way beyond the Bellini. Piazza di S. Pancrazio, 1; manifatturafirenze.it
PROCACCI Procacci, on Via dei Tornabuoni, was the truffle supplier to the Italian royal family until its dissolution. It’s the ideal stop for a glass of fizzy franciacorta and a tiny, soft panino slathered with the bar's signature truffle spread. Other menu options include a truffle anchovy spread and even a truffle artichoke cream, which is truffle nirvana. The extensive wine list is generous with the by-the-glass options. Via de' Tornabuoni, 64R; procacci1885.it
RASPUTIN Rasputin is as close as Florence gets to a speakeasy. It’s in Santo Spirito, and to find it you have to rely on either on word-of-mouth or clues given over the phone. (It takes its secrecy seriously.) The name is a nod to the aesthetic—a moody, sumptuously decorated lair that feels a bit illicit, and the décor is a blend of over-the-top 1940s Italy with a hint of St. Petersburg thrown in (ruby-red walls, sloping brick ceilings, antique carpets, and a candelabra on each table). It’s the kind of bourgeois cave the owners imagined Rasputin must have frequented. The drinks are strong, and the candied citrus peel and dried fruit muddled into cocktails somehow taste better here. Borgo Tegolaio, 21R; rasputinsecretbar.com
SIGNOR VINO Signor Vino is a wine-shop-meets-bar occupying prime real estate on the Arno, by the Ponte Vecchio. The space is modern, sophisticated, and as beloved by locals as it is by tourists. In the winter months, try to get a seat by the windows to take in the view as you enjoy your Brunello di Montalcino. Summertime is spent on the perpetually abuzz terrace. The beauty of Signor Vino is that you can try a few glasses, see what you like, and pick up your favorite bottle from the curated selection on the way out. Via de' Bardi, 46/R 48/R; signorvino.com
ART BAR The fruity cocktails here resemble mini-masterpieces, topped with extravagantly cut fresh fruit and served with small bowls of salty popcorn. Via del Moro, 4
DITTA ARTIGIANALE A morning café (black) or macchiato (marked with milk) is sacrosanct in the entire country. And very often, those are about your only options. But not so here, where Francesco Sanapo is modernizing the coffee (and brunch) game in Florence. There are two locations, though the original on Via dei Neri is our favorite. Staff at Ditta are actually happy to make you analmond milk flat white, or a cold-brew iced coffee, and even the filtered options are great thanks to the in-house own roaster. There are also pastries, polenta cake, and biscotti to dip in your coffee for breakfast (as well as pancakes and baked eggs if you’re homesick). At night, the space turns into a lively bar that favors all things gin. Via dei Neri, 30/32 R; dittaartigianale.it
GELATERIA LA CARRAIA There are no artificial flavorings or colorings in the gelato at La Carraia, just the concentrated nectar of the best fruits, nuts, and herbs of the season. La Carraia’s display is enough to lure you in, with its creamy mounds of colorful options. Go for a more unusual one, like torta della nonna (“grandma’s cake,” a regional pine nut dessert), or the best one, ricotta. Piazza Nazario Sauro, 25/r; gelaterialacarraia.it
MERCATO SANT’AMBROGIO If you’ve enjoyed dinner at one of Florence’s better restaurants, there’s a good chance the produce came from this market. Ten minutes from Piazza del Duomo, Mercato Sant’Ambrogio is open daily and is the ideal spot to fill up on vegetables and fruit—or a panino from Semel, which we heartily recommend—if you’ve maxed out on pasta but not on carbs in general. The nearby Enoteca Sant’Ambrogio is a wonderful spot to taste some bold Tuscan reds or spend the late afternoon after browsing the market. Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti; mercatosantambrogio.it
RIVOIRE Breakfast your local café in Italy is a ritual as social as it is caffeinating. The centuries-old habit has led to the proliferation of especially beautiful ones, as well as grand salons all across the country. In Florence, no spot is more elegant than Rivoire. The feeling is very old-world, with a mahogany bar, white tablecloths, and suited-up waiters flying around with silver platters held high above their heads. Take a seat in front and settle in among the elderly Florentines with their newspapers and machiattos, or sip a café standing at the bar as most locals do. In the colder months, wrap up and brave the outdoors with a view of the statue of David (disclaimer: The statue outside is a stand-in for the real deal, which is safely inside the museum) and the Accademia while savoring Rivoire’s indulgent hot chocolate. P.za della Signoria, 5/R; rivoire.it
SEMEL A hole-in-the-wall hatch in a corner of the Sant’Ambrogio market, Semel’s proprietor—the very dapper and thoroughly Florentine Marco Paparozzi—turns out hundreds of perfect panini (the perfect late lunch). Order off the blackboard: Wild boar (cinghiale) and broccoli, sweet pear and truffled Pecorino, and then settle in to watch the theater of Florence’s busiest market from your curbside seat. Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti, 44/r
SALUMERIA VERDI Salumeria Verdi is the Florentine equivalent of a deli. But this is a city with high gastronomic standards, and what you get here are no ordinary sandwiches. Italy in general and Tuscany, in particular, have an extremely varied bread tradition and this Salumeria showcases close to all of them. There’s schiacciata (a type of squashed, doughy Tuscan flatbread), piadina (an even flatter bread that you almost treat as a wrap), and the ubiquitous ciabatta (a very airy, white loaf); all are stuffed full of the region’s best meat and cheese by proprietor Pino and his family. Via Giuseppe Verdi, 36R
GELATERIA DELLA PASSERA This tiny gelateria churns out the kind of gelato beloved by Florentines—and anyone with taste buds. The seasonal specialties are made from completely organic, regional ingredients. Via Toscanella, 15/red
RISTO-MACELLERIA TERRAZZA MENONI The best place for a snack while shopping in Florence’s lively markets, Mercato Sant’Ambrogio (the city’s oldest) now offers one of the best lunches straight from Luca Menoni. Though the space has functioned as a butcher shop for nearly 100 years, Luca Menoni opened just above the space where it sells traditional and local meats. Try a seasonally rotating menu of beef, pork, poultry, and veal cooked using Tuscan recipes. The atmosphere shows its history with vintage posters and locals buzzing around the restaurant, multiple generations in tow. Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti, 11; terrazzamenoni.it
CANTINETTA ANTINORI For a wine tasting and lunch, visit the family-run eatery housed in a mansion that dates back to the 1400s. The family makes its own wine and will explain each bouquet as you order. Make sure to order the sole, which is light with remarkable flavoring, and comes with perfectly browned potatoes. Piazza degli Antinori, 3; cantinetta-antinori.com
SLITTI A premium chocolate shop and tasting room by Andrea Slitti with cocoa from Ecuador, Hispaniola, Venezuela, Peru, and Madagascar. Piazza dell'Olio, 6; slitti.it
ATTO DI VITO MOLLICA A fine dining restaurant with two Michelin stars. Salotto Portinari Bistrot di Vito Mollica, Via del Corso, 6; attodivitomollica.com
SAN LORENZO MARKET (MERCATO CENTRALE) A large, bustling bi-level food market with various stalls selling specialty products. Piazza del Mercato Centrale, Via dell'Ariento; mercatocentrale.it/firenze
FORNO A traditional bakery selling Florentine classics. Via Santa Monaca, 3r
VINTAGE CAFE A trendy espresso cafe with indoor outdoor seating. Via dei Conti, 25; vintagecafe.cafe
ENOTECA ALESSI Old-world, family-run liquor store/deli since 1952 with a wine cellar, tasting bar & local products. Via dell'Oche, 27; enotecaalessi.it
CAFE GINORI A cafe in the St. Regis featuring all Richard Ginori porcelain products. Piazza Ognissanti, 1; cafeginori.stregisflorence.com
ANTONIO MATTEO The place to taste and buy biscotti in Florence. Via Porta Rossa, 76/r; antoniomattei.it
TRATTORIA MARIONE Typical Tuscan dishes like Florentine steak & ribollita soup in a cozy, old-school trattoria. Via della Spada, 27/Rosso; trattoriamarione.it
TRATTORIA SABATINO Cozy, family-run trattoria specializing in Florentine steaks and pastas with Tuscan wines. Via Pisana, 2R; trattoriasabatino.it
OSTERIA CINGHALE BIANCO Enduring restaurant in a 14th-century tower, offering Tuscan dishes like pappardelle with wild boar. Borgo S. Jacopo, 43; cinghialebianco.com
IL SANTINO A locals only intimate wine bar in Santo Spirito. Via Santo Spirito, 60/R; ilsantobevitore.com
SPIRITUUM SPIRITS BAR A tiny bar with frescoed ceilings filled with locals late at night. Via Sant'Agostino, 14
ALLA VECCHIA BETTINA Near Porta Romana, the Vecchia Bettola is a small, traditional, old-school Florentine tavern with marble tables, wooden chairs, and stools. Viale Vasco Pratolini, 3/5/7
TRATTORIA ROBERTO Unassuming eatery preparing classic Florentine dishes like wild boar ragù & thick-cut steak. Via dei Castellani, 4; trattoriaroberto.com
IL PARIONE Upscale outfit with vaulted ceilings & an artsy-chic vibe fixing up traditional Tuscan dishes. Via del Parione, 74/76 r; parione.net
BUCA MARIO Housemade pasta, Florentine steaks & wild boar ragù served in a vaulted 16th-century dining room. Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16r
4 LEONI Tuscan specialities & regional wines served in a rustic-chic dining room with exposed brick. Via dei Vellutini, 1r; 4leoni.it
BUCA LAPI Traditional Tuscan dishes paired with regional wines in a vaulted cellar lined with vintage posters. Via del Trebbio, 1r; bucalapi.com
IL SANTO BEVITORE Refined Tuscan dishes in a traditional vaulted venue with bare brick, wood beams & wine shelves. Via Santo Spirito, 64r; ilsantobevitore.com
RISTORANTE MAMMA GINA Venerable restaurant preparing traditional Tuscan specialties in a 15th-century building. Borgo S. Jacopo, 37/R; mammagina.it
LE ANTICHE CARROZZE Tuscan dishes, pizza & steak in a warm, romantic restaurant with sidewalk tables, open since 1875. Borgo Santi Apostoli, 66 R; leantichecarrozze.it
IL BARRETTO Grilled steaks, pasta & traditional Florentine mains in an elegant, wood-paneled dining room. Via del Parione, 50; ilbarretto.it
OSTERIA DEL PAVONE A restaurant and cocktail bar with an innovative menu that still respects tradition. Via del Pavone, 1r; osteriadelpavone.it
LA GIOSTRA Tuscan dishes like Florentine T-bone steak, plus a big wine list, under 16th-century brick vaults. Borgo Pinti, 16R; ristorantelagiostra.com
CUCINA TORCICODA Dining complex with a pizzeria & gourmet dining restaurant in an elegant space with modern art. Via Torta, 5/r; cucinatorcicoda.superbexperience.com
FINISTERRAE Tuscan specialities, pizzas & desserts in a classically-styled, vaulted trattoria with a terrace. Piazza di Santa Croce, 12; finisterraefirenze.com
GOLDEN VIEW OPEN BAR Tuscan pastas, steaks & desserts in an elegant space with live jazz & views across Ponte Vecchio. Via de' Bardi, 58/r; goldenview.it
RISTORANTE OLIO Elegant restaurant & wine store for seasonal, gastronomic & traditional menus with Tuscan flavors. Via Il Prato, 58R; oliorestaurant.it
OSTERIA DELL’OLIO Rustic, warmly decorated eatery offering classic dishes such as fresh pasta, meat dishes & seafood. Piazza dell'Olio, 10/r; osteriadellolio.com
RISTORANTE STORICO SABATINI Signature pasta recipes, Florentine steak & Tuscan wines in a wood-paneled space with antiques. Via Panzani, 9/A; sabatinifirenze.it
BORGO SAN JACOPO Housed within the Hotel Lungarno, one of the most charming hotels in the city, this restaurant boasts the same elegant and exclusive style as the hotel. Borgo S. Jacopo, 14; lungarnocollection.com/borgo-san-jacopo
ENOTECA PINCHIORRI Artfully plated dishes inspired by Tuscan tradition, plus a long wine list, in an old-world space. Via Ghibellina, 87; enotecapinchiorri.it
LA LOGGIA Creative Tuscan dishes in an 1800s building with galleries & a rooftop terrace overlooking the city. Piazzale Michelangelo, 1; ristorantelaloggia.it
CESTELLO Situated in the beautiful piazza overlooked by the old church of San Frediano in Cestello, this restaurant serves fish specialities in atmospheric rooms. P.za di Cestello, 5; cestellofirenze.com
ORA D’ARIA Refined modern Tuscan cuisine, themed tasting menus & wine pairings in an intimate dining room. Via dei Georgofili, 11R; oradariaristorante.com
IL PALAGIO Tasting menus of inventive Tuscan dishes in a luxurious hotel dining room or on a garden terrace. Borgo Pinti, 99; ilpalagioristorante.it
PERCHÉ NO Compact gelateria serving up cups of seasonally changing ice creams & sorbets to take out. Via dei Tavolini, 19r
ARTS | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
MUSEO NAZIONALE DEL BARGELLO Il Bargello has seen Florence’s power players come and go since 1255. Throughout its long history, it’s been the residence of the head of police, a prison, the meeting place of the Council of the Hundred (a government entity, of which Dante Alighieri was part), and since the mid-nineteenth century, a museum. The many halls and galleries are full of sculptures, including several works by Donatello. Via del Proconsolo, 4; bargellomusei.it
PALAZZO PITTI Designed in part by Brunelleschi amongst others in the 1400s, the Palazzo Pitti has been the home to various Florentine dynasties for centuries, starting with Luca Pitti and including, most notably, the Medici family. Today, the immense structure is divided into four museums: The Palatine Gallery contains collections of Medici-owned paintings; the Gallery of Modern Art is home to works from the Neoclassical period up to the 1930s; the Treasury of the Grand Dukes displays the Medicis’ decorative arts; and lastly, there’s a costume museum. Piazza de' Pitti, 1; uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti
BOBOLI GARDENS During the Renaissance, landscaping was considered just as important as the architecture. Behind the Pitti Palace, the Boboli Gardens are a maze of grottos, fountains, and tree tunnels that set the tone for an Italianate style rapidly adopted by the palaces of Europe. Don’t miss the cerchiate grande—a long avenue of trees planted in 1612 that have grown into each other, forming the loveliest tunnel of shade. 50125 Florence; uffizi.it/giardino-boboli
GUCCI MUSEUM AND GARDENS Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele conceived of this multihyphenate space with the company’s in-house art curator. It took over two years to complete and now contains a garden, a museum, a store, and a restaurant helmed by Massimo Bottura (of Osteria Francescana fame)—everything created through the lens of Gucci. Anyone who appreciates design and fashion history will find the experience fascinating. P.za della Signoria, 10; palazzogucci.gucci.com
UFFIZI GALLERY Take your time at the Uffizi. Either go early in the summertime or in the winter months to beat the crowds and amble at your leisure across the two horseshoe-shaped floors of galleries and staterooms with their breathtaking collection of Renaissance masterpieces. There is nothing like seeing Botticelli’s dreamy Birth of Venus or Artemisia Gentileschi’s Judith Beheading Holofernes in person. Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6; uffizi.it/gli-uffizi
GALLERIEA DELL’ACCADEMIA The Accademia is famously the home of Michelangelo’s David, long considered by Florentines a symbol of their city’s strength, fighting off nearby foreign aggressors (remember, Italy has only been a unified country since 1871). A relatively new addition to the gallery is the instruments section, full of pieces like violins made by Stradivarius himself and a piano constructed by Bartolomeo Cristofori (the inventor of the piano), commissioned by the Medici family. Via Ricasoli, 58/60; galleriaaccademiafirenze.it
VASARI CORRIDOR A secret passage spanning close to a mile across Florence, the Vasari Corridor was built by Cosimo de Medici to traverse the city—and the Arno river—from the Palazzo Vecchio to the Palazzo Pitti safely and secretly. Enter from the Uffizi, which feels like passing into Narnia. The narrow corridor is filled with sixteenth- and seventeenth-century artworks and self-portraits by several artists, including Andrea del Sarto, Marc Chagall, and Delacroix. Don’t forget to look out the windows as you cross the Ponte Vecchio—yes, it will be packed with tourists, but yes, it will be worth it—to see the most beautiful parts of the city, as intended by the architect, Giorgio Vasari. uffizi.it/en/corridoio-vasariano
MUSÉE SALVATORE FERRAGAMO The Salvatore Ferragamo Museum in Florence, Italy is a fashion museum dedicated to the life and work of Italian shoe designer Salvatore Ferragamo and his eponymous company. The museum contains 10,000 models of shoes created and owned by Ferragamo from the 1920s until his death in 1960. See classic molds from clients including Audrey Hepburn, Rita Hayworth, and more. Piazza di Santa Trinita, 5R; museo.ferragamo.com/it
GARDEN OF IRISIS For more of a secret Florence, uninhibited by the crowds that quickly fill up the most popular attractions, head to the Garden of Irises. The former olive grove is now devoted to blooming iris plants (the symbol of the city of Florence). Situated on the corners of Viale dei Colli and Piazzale Michelangelo, there are over 1,500 different iris varieties, few tourists, and an incredible view of the Arno—it’s best to visit in April or May, when the flowers are at peak season. Via Michelangelo Buonarroti, 82; societaitalianairis.com
SCUOLA DEL CUOIO This hidden gem meaning “Leather School” is just that. Located in the Santa Croce area, anyone can take a three-month course or various day workshops where you’ll leave with a hand-crafted book cover or leather pouch. Via di S. Giuseppe, 5/R; scuoladelcuoio.it
TEMPIO MAGGIORE It’s a little out of the way, but the Tempio Maggiore is so worth a visit for both its historical value and sheer magnificence. Nearly destroyed during World War II—local Italian partisans defused the bombs in the nick of time—the synagogue was built in the late 1880s for the local Shaphardi community. The interior, inspired by the architecture of southern Spain as well as the Hagia Sofia, is quite Moorish—full of rich mosaics, marble, and stained glass. The Tempio Maggiore is still in use today. Afterward, a visit to Ruth’s for the best kosher spread in town (with excellent vegetarian options) is mandatory. Via Luigi Carlo Farini, 6, 5; firenzebraica.it/sinagoga
BRANCACCI CHAPEL Of all Florence’s cultural gems, the pre-Renaissance frescoes at the tiny Brancacci Chapel might be the ones we return to the most. The architects broke ground on the chapel in the mid-1200s, but artists Masaccio and Masolino’s era-defining frescoes weren’t painted until around 1425 and 1427. They depict the life of St. Peter, the most famous scene being the expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise. Their bodies mark the first time an artist attempted perspective, depth, and realism in depicting the human body, and these frescoes signal the beginning of the Renaissance. Piazza del Carmine, 14; ticketsmuseums.comune.fi.it/4_cappella-brancacci/
SHOP
PROFUMOIR An atelier by Sileno Cheloni and Roberto Cavalli’s son Daniele Cavalli. This olfactory experience may be booked by appointment only and includes an educational path of initiation to the alchemical art of perfume, which lasts one hour. Guests may create their own custom fragrance or buy one of the signature scents - our favorites are Oud and Sangueblu. A room may also be booked for the night and includes a custom perfume and access to the atelier, apothecary, and gardens. Via di S. Niccolò, 72R; profumoir.com
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Flagship store of the Ferragamo family, with a large selection of shoes, handbags, briefcases, belts and other leather goods. Don’t miss the museum attached to the store. Via de' Tornabuoni, 14r; store.ferragamo.com/it/europe/it/fi/florence/via-dei-tornabuoni,-14
LUISAVIAROMA Luisa Via Roma is Italy’s answer to Barneys. The store is large, and strictly curated to show off the best of Italian fashion and the most avant-garde of the international companies. Expect Fendi and Fiorucci alongside Versace, Yeezy, and Paul Andrew. The jewelry edit is sublime and features hard-to-find brands like Delfina Delettrez and Aurélie Bidermann. There’s also a terrace bar for a post-shopping cocktail. Via Roma, 19/21/r; luisaviaroma.com
RICHARD GINORI The delicately painted Florentine porcelain plates, cups, saucers, and serving dishes are displayed like works of art throughout the space. The business was run by the Ginori family from its inception in 1735 until the early 1920s, and the quality of each piece is still exceptional all these years later. Via dei Rondinelli, 17; ginori1735.com/it
SANTA MARIA NOVELLA The original Santa Maria Novella apothecary (purported to be the oldest pharmacy in the world, founded by Dominican monks in the thirteenth century), is finished with ornate, frescoed ceilings and eighteenth-century furniture. The shop's shelves are stocked with delicate bottles of the most heavenly scented fragrance, body oils, and soaps. It also carries our favorite rosewater facial mist and a selection of tinctures and smelling salts (it is an apothecary after all). A recent addition is the pretty tea room out back for an afternoon shopping break. P.za di Santa Maria Novella, 18; smn.it/it
IL TORCHIO There’s no better spot to pick up leatherbound journals and writing paper than at Il Torchio, which sells carta marmorizzata—sheets that are thicker than average paper and slightly marbled. (A resin or glue helps attach floating pigments to the paper, and once out of the water the pigments are combed or sponged to create patterns.) For those who appreciate the art of a handwritten letter on quality stationery—and we do—Il Torchio should be an essential stop. Via de' Bardi, 17; legatoriailtorchio.com
LORETTA CAPONI Loretta Caponi and her daughter Lucia are the women at the helm of this atelier—it’s filled with the most beautiful handmade sheets and pillowcases, slippery-soft silk nightwear that conjures up images of an old-world wedding trousseau, and embroidered linen tablecloths fit for feasts. Signora Caponi takes orders but asks for a month’s notice for delivery. Via delle Belle Donne, 28/r; lorettacaponi.it
TEMPLE ST. CLAIR Native Virginian Temple St. Clair crafted her first-ever piece of jewelry in Florence; when summering in the city, she came upon a goldsmith at work and never looked back. Nowadays the fine jewelry designer’s antiquarian pieces are still made utilizing the skill of Florence’s artisans and goldsmiths and can be seen at her first brick-and-mortar store among the Italian jewelers on the Ponte Vecchio. templestclair.com
IL PAPIRO In 1976, two young childhood friends with a background in the world of bookbinders, opened "Il Papiro" in Florence, a workshop where they offered their creations following the traditional florentine techniques. The workshop is still operating in Florence and keeps producing with the ancient methods, a number of unique items covered with hand-decorated paper. Il Papiro also offers a large selection of cards and writing paper, made in their laboratories, with decorations and designs created by the owners, inspired by the Italian graphic tradition. ilpapirofirenze.com
IL BUSSETTO An artisan workshop and store for small leather goods like wallets, handbags, belts and more. ilbussetto.it
PAPERONE A boutique with handmade traditional Florentine paper products. Via del Proconsolo, 26/R; eredipaperone.com
BIZARRE ATELIER A costume jewelry store. Borgo degli Albizi, 52; bizarreatelier.com
C’EST CHIC VINTAGE A well-curated vintage shop by Giada Barra with two locations in Florence. cestchic.it
LA VIA DEL TE A beautiful tea shop, perfect for gifts. laviadelte.it
FARMACIA DEL CONGALE A traditional pharmacy in service since the 1500s. Piazza del Mercato Nuovo, 4; farmaciadelcinghiale.it
A COZZI A bookbinder and paper store by Alberto Cozzi with handmade leather, paper and parchment products. Via del parione 35r; legatoriacozzifirenze.it
IL BISONTE The flagship store on Via del Parione showcases, along with bags and small leather goods, artwork, design objects, and elements taken from ephemeral architecture. Via del Parione, 31; ilbisonte.com
CARTOLERIA IL PARIONE A bookbinder, open since 1923. Via dello Studio, 11/red; parione.it
OFFICINA DE TORNABUONI Firenze's finest artisans of beauty and perfume for four generations. Via de' Tornabuoni, 19/n; odtskincare.com
VENNARI Vennari is a reinterpretation of classic jewelry in contemporary designs from a third-generation family of artisans. Via de' Tornabuoni, 1; vennari.com
PERUZZI PELLETTERIA Italian leather handbags and italian leather bags. Via dell'Anguillara, 5r; peruzzifirenze.com
ANNA PIAZZA PITTI A woman’s clothing and leather goods store. Piazza de' Pitti, 38/40, 41/R; annapitti.com
ANGELA CAPUTTI Angela Caputi has made a mark in the world of costume jewelry. She established her company back in 1975 in Florence, and today her work is recognized around the world for its dedication to high fashion costume jewelry.Unique jewellery creations from designer Angela Caputi. angelacaputi.com
DAY & WEEKEND TRIPS
FORTE DEI MARMI Affectionately known as “The Hamptons of Italy,” Forte dei Marmi is a summer destination for northern Italians escaping the city. Visit popular beach clubs including Bagno Annetta, Piemonte, Piero, and Vittoria. Stay at the Hotel Byron or Hotel Principe. On the way, visit Pisa or Pietrasanta, where Michaelangelo came in search of the world’s purest marble.
SIENA Set in Tuscany, Siena is distinguished by its medieval brick buildings and the Duomo. The fan-shaped central square, Piazza del Campo, is the site of the Palazzo Pubblico, the Gothic town hall, and Torre del Mangia, a slender 14th-century tower with sweeping views from its distinctive white crown. The city’s 17 historic “contrade” (districts) extend outward from the piazza. Stay at the nearby Castello di Casole, A Belmond Hotel and dine at Osteria Le Logge.
CORTONA Set in the heart of Italian wine country between Chianti and Montepulciano, and made famous by the book and movie “Under the Tuscan Sun,” Cortona has a charming main street in town with views over the vineyards. Stay at the family-owned Relais La Corte Dei Papi - each suite comes with an-room steam room, sauna, and jacuzzi tub.