Lisbon
MAAT Museum, Amanda Levete, Belém
Lisbon is Portugal’s hilly, coastal capital city. Seen best from above, the view from the imposing São Jorge Castle encompasses the old city’s pastel-colored buildings. Meanwhile, on the ground, the National Azulejo Museum displays 5 centuries of decorative ceramic tiles. Outside Lisbon lies the wine country of Evora along with a string of Atlantic beaches— from Cascais to Estoril.
STAY
GRANDE REAL VILLA ITALIA In the town of Cascais, this villa was once the home of Umberto II, the last king of Italy, who was forced into exile after a month of being crowned. He then lived in Cascais on the Atlantic Ocean for 37 years.
PALÁCIO BELMONTE Staying at Palácio Belmonte, a former palace in Alfama, is akin to sleeping in a museum, thanks to the priceless artwork stationed throughout the grounds. Even the building itself is a work of art—dating back to the 15th century when a noble family occupied it. The current owners, meanwhile, spent years meticulously restoring it with traditional techniques. It boasts 3,800 azulejo tiles from the 1700s—one of Lisbon’s most comprehensive installations.
OLISSIPPO LAPA PALACE HOTEL A member of the Leading Hotels of the World, this luxurious pink palace is nestled on one of Lisbon's 7 hilltops overlooking the Tagus River. Explore the gardens and have lunch on the terrace.
ONE PALÁCIO DA ANUNCIADA The One Palácio da Anunciada is a gorgeously decrepit sixteenth-century palace that has had contemporary vibrancy breathed back into its hallways. The pièce de ré·sis·tance is the hotel’s outdoor pool, which seems to hover above the city.
PESTANA PALACE Once the estate of a cocoa baron, the Pestana Palace has been converted into a hotel and brought back to its former glory.
PALACIO RAMALHETE Situated in an exclusive residential section of Lisbon's Lapa District, staying in this small boutique hotel feels like staying in an 18th-century private home.
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL RITZ LISBON Inside, art-deco sensibilities mingle with updated Louis XVI decor while a collection of contemporary local artwork decks the halls.
SANTA CLARA 1728 Designed by Manuel Aires Mateus, overlooking the river.
MEMMO ALFAMA Located in an ancient courtyard in the city’s historic area, Memmo was one of the first boutique hotels in Lisbon, and one with particularly incredible views
MEMMO PRÍNCIPE REAL Hotelier Rodrigo Machaz's third property, set on the top of a hill in the trendy Príncipe Real neighborhood, with a rooftop bar.
DEAR LISBON HOUSES Several hotels offered. The Gallery House and Living House are our recommendations.
CASA DAS JANELAS COM VISTA Located in a quiet street in the centre, Bairro Alto.
VISIONAIRE APARTMENTS Central location, Praça da Figueira.
ALMALUSA HOTEL In a quiet area in Praça do Município.
BROWNS HOTEL GROUP A chic chain with various hotel options.
BAIXA HOUSE An apartment downtown, ideal for longer stays.
MY STORY Boutique hotels with central locations downtown.
THE LISBOANS Located in a former 19th-century factory, this hotel also includes a cafe, restaurant, and grocery store.
TIVOLI AVENIDA LIBERDADE Opened in 1933 in Lisbon's shopping district, and steps away from the charming neighborhoods of Chiado and Alfama. Sip one of the signature cocktails at Sky Bar while enjoying stunning views of the city's seven hills. The property also offers a seafood restaurant, spa, and outdoor swimming pool, tucked away in semi-tropical greenery.
BAIRRO ALTO A central choice in the middle of downtown Lisbon, where Chiado’s top restaurants and Cais do Sodre’s best bars are minutes away, an ideal choice for first-time visitors prioritizing location, location, location. The property includes Flores do Bairro restaurant and a rooftop terrace.
VALVEREDE HOTEL A boutique hotel by designers José Pedro Vieira and Diogo Rosa Lã with a midcentury-modern aesthetic surrounding a poolside patio.
PALACIO GOVERNADOR Filled with antiquities and azulejos, this hotel is more like a museum— especially as it was built upon Roman ruins dating back to the first century. There are still stone vats and amphorae throughout the property. It was formerly the home of a governor of Belem, and still holds the original organ pipes in the 18th-century chapel. Room 116 even has a window that looks into the chapel.
SANTIAGO DE ALFAMA This 15th-century palace hotel is all-white by design with bathtubs, terraces, and access to the garden.
ALTIS BELEM HOTEL & SPA A waterfront property in Belem with floor-to-ceiling windows facing the river, and balconies featuring jacuzzis. The Spa has a hammam and Chef João Rodrigues’ Feitoria is the city’s only Michelin-starred hotel restaurant.
DINE | DRINK
PASTÉIS DE BELÉM A touristy, but necessary, stop while in Lisbon. The most famous bakery in all of Portugal is home to the national treat, pastel de nata, a delicious egg custard pastry. Bom apetite!
CATINHO DO AVILLEZ One of renowned Portuguese Chef Jose Avillez’s many restaurants. We recommend ordering the Algarve prawns, and enjoying a cocktail at Mini Bar while waiting for your table. We also love Barrio.
MAR DO INFERNO A seafood restaurant in Cascais popular with locals. Order the fresh crab and a glass of local Vinho Verde.
LUXFRÁGIL A nightclub by actor John Malkovich with international acts, located right on the river.
A MERENDEIRA Perfect for a late-night bite post dancing at LuxFragíl where the specialties include caldo verde and pão com chouriço.
RESTAURANTE OLIVIER AVENIDA A decidedly chic restaurant by Olivier da Costa. Order Dona Luzia’s “Empadinha” to share.
CAFÉ A BRASILEIRA One of the oldest and most famous cafes in Lisbon. A bronze statue of the great Portuguese writer Fernando Pessoa sits in front of the café. Order a bica or espresso and pasteis de nata and enjoy!
THE DECADENTE Located in the heart of Lisbon’s nightlife scene between Bairro Alto and Príncipe Real, The Decadente specializes in churrasco. As the sign upon entering reads, enjoy “guilt-free self-indulgence.”
COPENHAGEN COFFE LAB A Danish coffee shop with multiple European locations, including here in Lisbon. Good for a cup of hand-roasted coffee and a cinnamon roll.
THE MILL An Australian-Portuguese café for breakfast and lunch.
A CEVICHERIA Enjoy Peruvian style Ceviche and classic Pisco Sours combined with Portuguese and pan-Asian flavors.
TIME OUT MARKET A selection of the best Lisbon restaurants, bars, shops, music, and market vendors, housed in a historic market hall. Rive Rouge on the top floor is owned by Manuel Reis of Lux Fragil fame.
BELCANTO José Avillez restaurant with two Michelin Stars— voted one of the 50 best restaurants in the world.
CLUBE DE FADO As the name implies, this bar and restaurant offers nightly Fado performances, the hauntingly heartbreaking national music of Portugal. Order a glass of local port and sink into saudade.
TOPO MARTIM MONIZ A rooftop bar with craft cocktails and city views over Castel de São Jorge.
OS GAETEIROS An Alfama gem and local favorite.
SANTINI An artisanal ice cream and gelato shop with locations throughout Portugal, established in 1949.
CAIS DO SODRÉ Head to the pink street for an after-dinner drink near Bairro Alto.
CERVEJARIA RAMIRO A relaxed, authentic seafood restaurant.
TOCA DA RAPOSA A cozy, cocktail bar.
CASA INDEPENDENTE Located in the revived Mouraria Quarter in an apartment with a terrace, and drawing a young, stylish crowd for cocktails & live music.
BAR PAVILHÃO CHINÊS A bar in an old grocery store with rooms decorated like a museum. A favorite haunt of shoe designer Christian Louboutin.
TABERNA DA RUA DAS FLORES A narrow dining room with artisanal products lining the shelves serving traditional tapas with a menu that changes daily.
ADEGA DOM LUIS A traditional, Portugueuse restaurant near the Jardim do Príncipe Real.
PONTO FINAL Located in Almada on the other side of the Tagus River, but worth the trek for the best views of the capital, especially at sunset. Try the fisherman’s favorite— fried carapauzinhos (little mackerel) with tomato rice.
PHARMACIA Susana Felicidade’s flagship restaurant shares the same building as the Museu de Farmacia, which explains the drug store decor, including the first aid kits that chill bottles of wine. Partake in petiscos, Portuguese tapas.
LOCO Chef Alexandre Silva won Portugal’s edition of Top Chef followed by a Michelin-star. There is no menu and diners choose up to18-courses accompanied by homemade (and highly addictive) sourdough bread with a selection of butters (including cuttlefish ink).
ALMA Chef Henrique Sá Pessoa’s Chiado restaurant offering modern Portuguese cooking, which combines classic, contemporary, and international influences. The suckling pig confit, which is cooked for 24 hours, is a signature item.
BY THE WINE The flagship bar of José Maria da Fonseca, one of Portugal’s oldest producers. The ceiling is covered in over 3,600 wine bottles, and they offer wines by the glass to taste. Try the signature Periquita made with Castelão grape, a varietal indigenous to the Tejo region of Portugal.
BA WINE BAR DO BAIRRO ALTO There are approximately 350 native grape varietals in Portugal— learn and taste some by the glass at BA Wine Bar as they carry over 500 labels, and pair options with local charcuterie and cheese.
RED FROG A prohibition-style speakeasy with a large selection of Gin Tonicos. The owners also operate the tropical tiki bar, Monkey Mash.
CINCO LOUNGE A pioneer of Portugal’s mixology scene by Dave Palethorpe in Principe Real.
O BOM, O MAU E O VILÃO The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly bar is a colorful cocktail lounge in Caiso do Sodre in a converted townhouse featuring live jazz.
ART | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
MUSEU NACIONAL DO AZULEJO As the name suggests, The National Tile Museum is dedicated to azulejo, the traditional blue and white tilework of Portugal.
MAAT MUSEUM On the banks of the Tagus in Belém, the Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology is an impressively imposing structure by Amanda Levete Architects.
BELÉM TOWER The Tower of Saint Vincent is a 16th-century fortification serving as a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon.
PALÁCIO DOS MARQUESES DE FRONTEIRA The former 17th century Palace of the Marquesses of Fronteira is now a museum, available to tour.
ESTORIL CASINO One of the largest working casinos in Europe and purportedly the inspiration for Ian Fleming's Casino Royale, a gathering spot for espionage agents, dispossessed royals, and adventurers.
MUDE Lisbon’s design museum, which also showcases many Portuguese artists.
FUNDAÇÃO GULBENKIAN The Gulbenkian Foundation is a Portuguese institution dedicated to the promotion of the arts, philanthropy, science, and education. Spend time in the museum and beautiful gardens.
FUTBOL Take in a match at either the Estádio do Sport Lisboa e Benfica (Estádio da Luz), home of S.L. Benefica, or the Estádio José Alvalade, home of Sporting CP.
SHOP
A VIDA PORTUGUESA This shop sells classic Portuguese products – from kitchenware to toiletries, but we especially love their colorful notebooks to document our travels in.
LUVARIA ULISSES Founded in 1925, and remarkably still open and unchanged to this day, this charming glove shop is located in a beautiful old building in Chiado.
A ARTE DA TERRA Authentic Portuguese crafts from hand-painted tiles to puppets set in a gorgeously renovated former stable.
CONSERVEIRA DE LISBOA Opened in the 1930’s and virtually unchanged ever since, Conserveira de Lisboa (Lisbon Cannery), sells brightly-colored vintage tins of fish. Quirky as it is, its charm is undeniable, whatever your culinary proclivities may be.
UNDER THE COVER A contemporary bookstore with an incredible selection of international magazines.
CAULINA A ceramic manufacturer and shop in Lisbon.
EMBAXIADA A19th-century palace turned shopping mall featuring Portuguese brands & designers & a restaurant.
CAIS PIMENTA ROSA A gourmet shop in Cais do Sodre, sourced from artisanal producers, like almonds from Moncorvo in the Douro, spicy canned sardines from Porthos, and fruit jams from Casa do Vale.
BRANCA LISBOA Designer Marco Sousa Santos, whose work has been exhibited at the V&A and MoMA, produces whimsical furniture like the famous Shell Chair, made of Portuguese birch.
LIVRARIA LER DEVAGAR A bookstore in the LX Factory, a transformed former industrial complex, lined with floor-to-ceiling shelves, and a second-floor art gallery, which occasionally hosts concerts, lectures, plays, and readings.
CAZA DAS VELLAS LORETO Opened in 1789, this candle shop still lives in the original elaborately carved wooden interior, home to hundreds of candles, with a workshop in the back full of molds.
CUTIPOL Founded in Guimarães, Cutipol’s cutlery adheres to a minimalist aesthetic.
MANUEL TAVARES A local wine shop that has been serving Lisboetas since it opened in 1860, with a cellar dedicated entirely to its Port collection.
J BAPTISTA Originally founded by antique expert José Baptista and his wife Ana in the 1940s, renowned for having the largest collection of antique Portuguese jewelry and silver products dating back to the 15th century.
SOLAR ANTIGUEDADES This third-generation, family-run antique shop in Principe Real opened in 1956, and claims to have the world’s largest collection of tiles, which is saying something in Portugal.
DAY & WEEKEND TRIPS
BEACHES Guincho Beach, Cabo da Roca, and Adraga Beach— which has a great seaside restaurant.
SINTRA A resort town studded with pastel-colored villas in the foothills of Portugal’s Sintra Mountains, about 30 minutes from Lisbon. The Moorish Manueline-style Sintra National Palace is distinguished by dramatic twin chimneys and elaborate tilework whereas the 19th-century Pena National Palace is known for its whimsical design and sweeping views. The nearby palatial Monserrate Palace, traditionally the summer resort of the Portuguese court, is also worth seeing.
QUINTA COLINA FLORA Founded by husband and wife, James and Aasta in the hills of Colares— a unique retreat offering yoga with a view. Flores Do Cabo, also in Colares, offers a cafe in an art gallery.
ÉVORA The capital of Portugal's s Alentejo wine region. In the city's historic center stands the ancient Roman Temple of Diana and Cathedral of Évora, a massive Gothic structure begun in the 12th century. The Igreja de São Francisco features Gothic and baroque architecture and a skeleton-adorned Chapel of Bones. São Lorenço do Barrocal is a must-visit hacienda-style hotel and restaurant, offering horseback riding, a winery, and pool in the heart of the Alentejo region. Monsaraz Castle is a medeival structure overlooking the Alqueva Dam.
AZORES A two-hour flight from Lisbon, the Azores are an archipelago in the mid-Atlantic characterized by dramatic landscapes, fishing villages, green pastures, and blue hydrangeas.
ALGARVE Between Lagos and Faro lies miles of picturesque cliffs overlooking beaches lined with villas, golf resorts, hotels, bars, and restaurants. Stay at the Pine Cliffs Hotel or the Tivoli Carvoeiro Hotel (and enjoy the view from the new Skybar); dine at Rei das Praias in Ferragudo or in Santa Luiza “the octopus capital of the world” at Casa do Polvo Tasquinha or Polvo & Companhia; drink Calabria wines at Café Correia in Vila do Bispo; shop at Porches Pottery in Lagoa or the popular Mercado Municipal de Loulé; visit the beaches of Praia da Falésia and São Rafael in Albufeira, Praia da Amoreira in Aljezur, Praia da Marinha in Lago, and the caves of the Vale de Covo beach.
Text: Veronica H. Speck Photo: ArchDaily. © Francisco Nogueira