Marseilles
Tuba Club
Marseille, a port city in southern France, has been a crossroads of immigration and trade since its founding by the Greeks circa 600 B.C. At its heart is the Vieux-Port (Old Port), where fishmongers sell their catch along the boat-lined quay. Basilique Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde is a Romanesque-Byzantine church. Modern landmarks include Le Corbusier’s influential Cité Radieuse complex and Zaha Hadid’s CMA CGM Tower.
STAY
TUBA CLUB A five-room hotel and restaurant that popular with Parisians and tourists alike. Until the 1980s, the compound was a diving center frequented by Jacques Mayol, the inspiration behind Luc Besson's 1988 film The Big Blue. Now it's a stylish hotel designed by Marion Mailaender, who commissioned hand-painted murals, installed rustic ceramic pieces, and hung 70s-style beaded curtains in shades of rust and yellow. 2 Bd Alexandre Delabre; tuba-club.com
LES BORDS DE MER A four-story, all-white hotel with 19 rooms and a rooftop bar and pool, the perfect place to order Aperol spritzes and panisse at sunset. The hotel is situated just a stone's throw from the Catalans beach. Venture inside and you will stumble into an Art Deco dreamscape, thanks to the leadership of Frédéric Biousse and Guillaume Foucher. While the Marseillais architect, Yvann Pluskwa, managed to keep conserve the original exterior of the building, he completely revamped the interior. The hotel's restaurant has an excellent view, and offers a menu of Mediterranean-inspired classics, accompanied by delicate rosés from the Lourmarin vineyards. Furthermore, guests can venture over to the spa, where Balinese massages and natural Ren Skincare products await. 52 Corniche President John Fitzgerald Kennedy; lesdomainesdefontenille.com
NEW HOTEL LE QUAI With boats at its doorstep, ready to sail to the Frioul archipelago and the Mediterranean, this new hotel was entirely renovated by Caroline and Camille Antoun, the place honors the spirit and history of the Old Port, twisted with influences from around the world. On the ground floor, there is a bistro with green marble tables and chairs by Pierre Paulin next to the lobby. Meanwhile, upstairs, the 48 rooms echo three themes inspired by the landscapes of Africa, Morocco and its Majorelle blue, and Ricardo Bofill's colorful creations from Spain. Guests also have exclusive access to the Cercle des Nageurs and its swimming pool bordering the waves, where you can swim laps, and then drink a rosé facing the sunset. 2 Place Gabriel Peri; new-hotel.com
LE PETIT NICE A charming seaside hotel, complete with six bedrooms, each with a coastal view, as well as one of the best restaurants in Marseille by chef Gérald Passédat, serving small seafood platters, dishes of raw fish, crystal caviar, and perfectly roasted vegetables. 17 Rue des Braves Anse de Maldormé, 156 Cor Président John Fitzgerald Kennedy; passedat.fr
L'INTERCONTINENTAL HÔTEL DIEU Within the walls of a renovated 18th-century hospital, L'Intercontinental kept original details such as the sweeping wrought-iron staircase, along with Roman mosaics from the 1st century AD. It was decorated by designer Jean-Philippe Nuel, and includes a Clarins spa, specializing in aromatherapy and phytotherapy. Complete with two restaurants run— Alcyone by Michelin-starred chef Lionel Levy with Mediterranean dishes, and the casual Les Fenêtres. It is conveniently set above the Old Port with a view of the sea and the hilltop Notre Dame De La Garde basilica from the private garden terraces filled with romantic floral arrangements. 1 Place Daviel; marseille.intercontinental.com
HÔTEL LES ROCHES BLANCHES An upscale hotel with airy rooms and incredible views of the turquoise-blue Mediterranean. 9 Av. des Calanques; roches-blanches-cassis.com
LE COUVENT Situated in the Panier neighborhood of Marseille, Le Couvent was a formal royal foundry converted into a convent for Jesuits before being transformed into the hotel. Le Couvent is comprised of nine suites, decorated with Le Corbusier armchairs and Paola Navone sofas. 6 Rue Fonderie Vieille
CASA HONORÉ Annick Lestrohanm’s beautiful guest house is a few steps away from the Old Port. Converted from an old printing press, the house mixes different styles, landing somewhere between a Moroccan riad and a Mexican hacienda, with four bedrooms surrounded by a patio of exotic plants and a crystal clear pool. Inside, the designer mixed the essentials with forged iron garden furniture, bamboo lighting, and linen drapes all available at her boutique. 123 Rue Sainte; honoredeco.com
HÔTEL MAISON MONTGRAND A boutique hotel done in minimalist style with smooth woods and muted tones with a lifestyle boutique, restaurant, vast garden, and frequent Friday night parties, 35 rue Montgrand; hotel-maison-montgrand.com
HOTEL LE CORBUSIER A boutique hotel occupying two floors in the middle of La Cité Radieuse, a residential tower designed by Le Corbusier. 280 Bd Michelet; hotellecorbusier.com
VILLA MARIE JEANNE A charming, Provençal-style b&b with a leafy garden. 4 Rue Chicot; villa-marie-jeanne.com
DINE
LA MERCERIE Creatively plated set menus with wine pairings, offered in a space with industrial decor. Recently rewarded by Le Fooding, La Mercerie stands out among the foodie destinations in Marseille. With Laura Vidal and Julia Mitton (The Paris Popup) at the helm, and chef Harry Cummins in the kitchen (Frenchie), the restaurant is more inspired than ever. Making sure to use only the freshest and most seasonal products, diners can enjoy octopus salads with ripe tomatoes, cucumber granitas, and grilled mackerel served with fish roe. 9 Cr Saint-Louis; lamerceriemarseille.com
ÉPICERIE L'IDÉAL A Mediterranean restaurant and market. Julia Sammut gave up her career as a food journalist to open this épicerie in central Marseille, a foodie heaven that exudes the smells of fresh mint, olive oil, and rosemary as you open the door. You’ll find shelves full of jars and a deli counter with sausages, home-made dishes, and hams. 11 Rue d'Aubagne; epicerielideal.com
CHEZ YASSINE Tunisian food like ojja stew, served with merguez sausage, is served at this casual stop with outside tables. 8 Rue d'Aubagne; chezyassine.com
CHEZ ETIENNE A classic Italian restaurant with an old-school atmosphere, founded by Sicilians in 1943. 43 Rue Lorette; chez-etienne.fr
L’AUBERGE DU CORSAIRE “CHEZ PAUL” A casual seafood restaurant known for its bouillabaisse, with tables offering water views. 35 Rue Désiré Pelaprat;
PIZZERIA LA BONNE MÈRE Delicious pizzas made with organic ingredients and French & Italian wine pitchers. 16 Rue Fort du Sanctuaire; pizzeria-labonnemere.fr
SEPIA Elevated, seasonal bistro classics at a chic hilltop place with garden tables & harbor views. The chef, Paul Langlère, a veteran of Alain Ducasse has elevated a snack bar into one of Marseille’s hottest tables. Situated on a leafy hillside, the simple industrial-cool dining room and outdoor tables offer views of the twinkling city while serving up an ever-changing chalkboard menu of fresh ingredients in freestyle preparations. 2 Rue Vauvenargues; restaurant-sepia.fr
OTTO A neighborhood restaurant serving delicious Mediterranean and Italian dishes. 150 Rue Jean Mermoz; restaurantotto.fr
CHEZ JEANNOT Pizzas & grilled dishes at a long-standing place overlooking a fishing port, plus sunset views. 129 Rue du Vallon des Auffes; pizzeriachezjeannot.com
VANILLE NOIRE Scoops of black vanilla ice cream and a range of other creative flavors to take out. 15 Rue Caisserie; vanillenoire.com
BRICOLEURS DE DOUCEURS Creative takes on classic French pastries. bricoleursdedouceurs.fr
MAISON SAINT HONORÉ Pick up some freshly baked artisanal French pastries by Chef Pierre Ragot at this pâtisserie. 131 rue d'endoume
CHEZ LE BELGE 9 miles south of Marseille’s Vieux Port in the tiny fishing village of Callelongue, located in the Calanque de Marseilleveyre. Perched above the small beach lies the terrace of the family-owned Chez Le Belge, which counts more wine than main dishes, but don’t miss the spaghetti bolognese and salad niçoise. Calanque de Marseilleveyre
CHEZ FONFON A long-standing venue by the port, known for bouillabaisse and Mediterranean fish dishes. 140 Rue du Vallon des Auffes; chez-fonfon.com
LE RHUL A hotel restaurant on a cliff overlooking the sea specializing in bouillabaisse since 1948. 269 Cor Président John Fitzgerald Kennedy; hotel-restaurant-le-rhul.coM
AM Visitors frequent this confidential location to experience the revolutionary cuisine of Alexandre Mazzia ’s latest project. Hidden on a narrow street in the 8th arrondissement, AM combines steel decoration with concrete walls and oak flooring. No menus are provided. Instead, the chef spontaneously prepares lunch and dinner depending on what foods are in season, and what is fresh from the sea, always with a French-North African flair. 9 Rue François Rocca; alexandre-mazzia.com
MADAME JEANNE Fitting in with the locavore movement, the restaurant uses as many fresh and organic local ingredients as possible. Try the salad made of tomatoes, pineapples, and brousse du Rove cheese, octopus ceviche, fresh fish, black rice with sage, bonito, fregola pasta, risotto, accompanied by natural wines in a chic, plant-filled space. 86 Rue Grignan; maisonbuon.com
L’EAU À LA BOUCHE Don't judge a book by its cover: behind this slightly run-down-looking storefront is the best pizza in Marseille. Run by Rodolphe Bodikian, from Guy Savoy restaurant in Paris, this restaurant creates the classics the way they should be done— from ultra-thin-crusted Margherita to a less traditional pizza with liver sausage. 120 Corniche President John Fitzgerald Kennedy; pizzerialeaualabouche.fr
EMKI POP Specializing in all things ice cream, offering 100% natural recipes featuring local fresh fruits: strawberries from Pennes, raspberries from Concèze, apricots from Grans, and more. In addition, the parlor offers some adventurous ice-cream flavors like La Detox (lemons from Provence, turmeric, ginger), L'Estivale (melons from Pennes & Pastis), and even a Black Sesame flavor. 80 Bd Vauban; emkipop.fr
CAFÉ DE L'ABBAYE A traditional, lively locale with a spacious outdoor dining area. With well-chilled pastis, blush pink rose, little green olives, and tasty sardine rillettes de sardines, Café de l’Abbaye is a Marseilles institution come sundown. Looking out over the Vieux Port, it looks like something out of a Marcel Pagnol novel and is packed with both visitors and locals alike. 3 Rue d'Endoume
LE VENTRE DE L’ARCHITECTE Located in the Hotel Corbusier, this fine dining restaurant gives diners gastronomic treats to rival the sea views. Hints of Asia and the tropics mingle with those of the Mediterranean on two nightly tasting menus— from creamy curry foam (used to bathe shrimp served with flower petals) to sardine tempura (laid across a succulent disc of suckling pig ringed by mango coulis). 280 Bd Michelet, 13; restaurant-leventredelarchitecte
LA CANTINETTA Prosciutto hangs overhead in fatty joints and gets sliced on a hand-cranked machine from Parma, while the ultra-creamy mozzarella is a special cow’s milk variety from Puglia. The chalkboard menu has pasta, seafood, and meat dishes that change daily and sometimes lists thin-sliced veal in a sauce that includes veal jus, mustard, white wine, and anchovy bits. For dessert, don’t miss the pain perdu and try to reserve a seat in the garden. 24 Cr Julie; restaurantlacantinetta.fr
TAQUERIA LOKA Mexican specialties, desserts and cocktails, are offered in this bright, stylish locale. 126 Rue Sainte; taquerialoka.com
LE POULPE Stop by to sample culinary creations from local chef Michel Portos and his childhood friend Michel Ankripar in a 1950s interior designed by François Champsaur. All items are local, in fact they are sourced within a 250km radius for an inventive new take on Mediterranean cuisine. 84 Quai du Port
L’EPUISETTE Perched high up in the rocks of Vallon des Auffes, L’Epuisette is known to serve the best bouillabaisse and bourrides in town. With a daily delivery of fish from local fishermen, chef Guillaume Sourrieu creates typically Marseillais dishes ready to eat looking out to sea on La Corniche. Vallon des Auffes; l-epuisette.fr
LA BAIE DES SINGES Perched above a sheltered little bay opposite Ile de Maïre, this fish restaurant has the best of the local catch each day, sold by weight and served whole, then dressed on your plate. Accessible via a 15-minute walk with views of dramatic rock formations. Cap Croisette; la-baie-des-singes.fr
LE GLACIER DU ROI The best artisanal ice cream shop in Marseilles, famous for its glace à la navette (a pistachio, almond, creamy concoction). leglacierduroi.com
LE FOUR DES NAVETTES A cozy, long-running bakery specializing in baguettes, biscuits, and baked treats, plus candy. 136 Rue Sainte; fourdesnavettes.com
LA VILLA MADIE A Michelin-starred restaurant high in Cassis’s surrounding hills, offering magnificent ocean views and dishes to match: Fresh shellfish, fish, and vegetables. Admire the nearby Cap Canaille, the highest sea cliff in Europe. anse de Corton, 30 Av. du Revestel; lavillamadie.com
LA STAZIONE Located in Cassis, but worth the trip for seafood and homemade pizza. 39 Avenue Victor Hugo
LA BOÎTE À SARDINE A seafood shack with a daily-changing menu— fresh oysters, sea urchin, calamari, and sole on the menu, along with cold crunchy-pink shrimp served with aioli and a cold glass of rosé. 2 Bd de la Libération
RHIZOME - LES RACINES DU GOÛT A wine cellar and local grocery store run by José Pottier (who used to run Le Petit Nice), providing an array of fine products ranging from caviar, local cheeses, Spanish charcuterie, sardines from La Guildive and a selection of jams as well as an extensive menu of wine, which can be enjoyed on an on-site terrace. 116 Corniche President John Fitzgerald Kennedy
BAR DES AMIS A seaside bar and cafe located at the Pointe Rouge in Marseille. Order a pan bagnat and Aperol spritz and enjoy the view. 23 Av. de la Pointe Rouge
DRINK
CARRY NATION A bar so secret that one must register online to obtain the address, door code, and entry instructions. Within awaits a Roaring Twenties universe of vintage furniture and bartenders in suspenders who mix classic cocktails. carrynation.fr
DIVINO A small wine bar on one of Cassis’s many charming sidestreets, serving simple share plates and lovely wine. 45 bd Eugène Pierre
BAOU A rooftop bar with live music, offering panoramic views of the Mediterranean Sea. 1 Av. de l'Argilité; lebaoumarseille.com
GASPARD A tiny mixology-focused cocktail bar in a wood-lined space. 7 Boulevard Notre Dame; bargaspard.com
VIAGHIJI DI FONFON A bistro and wine bar with tapas. 136-142 Rue du Vallon des Auffes; viaghjidifonfon.com
LA RELÈVE A bar/cafe/tapas bar in Vieux Port. 41 Rue d'Endoume
R2 With its panoramic view of the glistening Mediterranean, the rooftop of this large rooftop bar welcomes a host of locals as soon as the sun begins to set. It's the ideal place for enjoying a cocktail or hitting the dance floor. The musical guest line-up is also impressive, they often host global DJs. Les Terrasses du Port, 9 Quai du Lazaret; lerooftopdesterrasses.com
ART | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
CITÉ RADIEUSE A modern, brutalist apartment complex and UNESCO World Heritage site by Le Corbusier, built-in 1952. The building contains several areas open to the public, including the rooftop MAMO art gallery, a new bookshop, and the 21-room Hotel Le Corbusier. The outdoor terrace of the hotel’s restaurant, Le Ventre de l’Architecte, is perfect at sunset. 280 Bd Michelet; citeradieuse-marseille.com
MAMO A contemporary art center based on the rooftop of Le Corbusier's Cité Radieuse with impressive exhibitions. 280 Bd Michelet; mamo.fr
LE MUSÉE REGARDS DE PROVENCE A tiny, private museum with classic and modern art related to the region, plus a tea room with scenic harbor views. Av. Vaudoyer; museeregardsdeprovence.com
LA VIEILLE CHARITÉ A domed neo-Romanesque complex that houses archaeological finds from the Mediterranean (as well as a poetry center and bookshop). 2 Rue de la Charité; vieille-charite-marseille.com
FRIOUL ARCHIPELAGO A strange, barren and (almost) uninhabited world hides 30 minutes from Marseille’s Vieux Port. Blasted by eons of wind and waves, the four small islands have eroded into rocky, chalk-white lumps of cliffs, ravines, coves, and outcroppings. The Frioul If Express ferries you to If Island — where you can explore the abandoned 16th-century prison fortress Château d’If immortalized in the novel “The Count of Monte Cristo.” Continue onward to Ratonneau Island. From the harbor, gravel paths extend along the coast and into the interior, leading to the ruins of a 19th-century hospital and various fortresses. Amid squealing gulls and crashing surf, the journeys provide nonstop sublime vistas, most notably of Marseille itself, spreading down the hills and stretching along the cliffs of the Mediterranean coast.
BASILIQUE NOTRE-DAME DE LA GARDE A Romanesque-Byzantium basilica with a 33-foot statue of the Madonna and Child adorned in gold leaf. Rue Fort du Sanctuaire; notredamedelagarde.fr
CALANQUE DE SORMIOU Take a vespa to the Calanque de Sormiou, a narrow and steep inlet along the limestone coast— romantic, wild, and surrounded by huge cliffs, which protrude fjord-like into the landscape. While many calanques require hours of hiking or kayaking to reach, the Calanque de Sormiou is easily accessible by vespa. 8 rue de la Loge
GRANDE ROU DE MARSEILLE A 55-meter tall Ferris wheel in Marseille, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur. It is the second tallest Ferris wheel in France and has 42 gondola cabins, located in the Vieux-Port (Old Port). 30 Quai du Port
CALANQUE DE NIOLON Take a kayak to visit the Côte Bleue Marine Park and Niolon, the closest calanque to Marseille.
PORT DE L’ESTAQUE A little fishing port just north-west of Marseille, a hub for painters and artists. 147 Plage de l'Estaque; marseille-tourisme.com
TRAIN DE LA CÔTE BLEU Take a trip on the legendary “Blue Train” running along the Mediterranean Coast.
LA BAIE DES SINGES To reach this charming private beach, head over to Goudes, at the southern tip of Marseille. After passing the bright sea and the steep rocky roads lies a haven of turquoise coves, facing the island of Maire. With a handful of bright orange lounge chairs placed on a rocky facade, visitors come to enjoy the stunning scenery, but also the infamous restaurant, where the catch of the day is the best thing on the menu. Cap Croisette; la-baie-des-singes.fr
FRICHE LA BELLE DE MAI A cultural center sprawling across the vast grounds of a 19th-century tobacco factory, containing historical and contemporary buildings with cafes, restaurants, bars, bookshops, galleries, and more. 41 Rue Jobin; lafriche.org
MUSÉE D'ART CONTEMPORAIN Museum and library of art publications, showcasing French and international art from the 1960s onwards. 69 Av. d'Haifa
BEACHES The golden sands of Plage des Catalans and the soft gravel of Plage du Prado are often packed, but a peaceful spot is hidden between them on the rocky outcropping below Le Petit-Nice Passedat. The large rocks are a tranquil spot to listen to the waves while gazing out at the nearby small islands.
SHOP
THE DOCKS VILLAGE After undergoing a revamping effort, one of the most emblematic buildings in Marseille reopened its doors two years ago. In a city swarming with new concept-stores, decorative boutiques, cafés, and local markets, this destination compiles the best of the best from the current creative scene. 10 Pl. de la Joliette; lesdocks-marseille.com
TITRE SUR LE NET A tiny, charming bookstore. 24 rue Sylvabelle; titresurlenet.com
JOGGING Run by Olivier Amsellem and Charlotte Brunet, Jogging offers any Marseille visitor all their streetwear essentials. The concept store stocks pieces by contemporary designers such as Jacquemus, and JW Anderson as well as vintage furniture by Pierre Jeanneret – and even Aesop cosmetics.103 Rue Paradis; joggingjogging.com
MAISON EMPEREUR Locally-made lavender soap, vintage baskets, fish-shape ceramics, flower-infused candies, ostrich feathers, candles from Ciergerie des Prémontrés, casserole dishes made of copper. This home good store is a must for all your quintessentially French souvenirs, and they have even constructed a new floor dedicated solely to interior decor as well as a charming tea lounge. 4 Rue des Récolettes; empereur.fr
CHEZ LAURETTE After working in Paris for Marc Jacobs, the namesake owner returned home to southern France and opened a concept store where every item — from beers to bath products — is made in France. 16 Rue Edmond Rostand; chez-laurette.com
LE DIABLE MERIDIEN A leather good store. 8 Rue Edmond Rostand; lediablemeridien-boutique.com
MAISON MÈRE A vintage store. 5 Rue du Chevalier Roze; maisonmere.eu
RUE DES ANTIQUAIRES An antique flea market. 3 Rue Edmond Rostand; antiquairesmarseille.com
LIBRAIRIE L’ODEUR DU TEMPS
A charming bookstore. 35 Rue Pavillon; librairesdusud.com
LA PERE BLAIZE An old school pharmacy. 4 Rue Meolan et du Père Blaize; pereblaize.fr
SESSÙN A refined boutique next to the old port. sessun.com
DAY | WEEKEND TRIPS
AIX EN PROVENCE Aix en Provence is only a 45-minute drive away. Visit Cezanne’s studio and home and then drive another 15 minutes up the road to the magical Château La Coste, a 500-acre estate with a biodynamic vineyard producing delicious rosé, a chic hotel, Villa La Coste, a restaurant from Francis Mallmann, and a music pavilion designed by Frank Gehry. One of the Crouching Spider sculptures by Louise Bourgeois adorns the pool, and there are additional artwork by Damien Hirst and Alexander Calder. Ten miles from Marseille is the Calanques, a series of spectacular fjord-like bays carved into the white limestone cliffs.
CASSIS Only a 30-minute drive away from Vieux-Port, Cassis is a must-see during any visit to Marseille. Climbing the Roches Blanches has hidden bonuses too – the rocks exfoliate the skin, making it soft and refreshed. The historical pillars at the entrance to the gardens welcome visitors to the balconies worked into the Cap Canaille, a staircase with peeling Art Deco style motifs, juxtaposed perfectly with the modernist Monika Kappel buildings alongside it. Between scrubland and creeks, visitors can relax in swimming pools and take shade underneath pines. There's also a crystal-clear cove, accessible only by traversing the rocky outcrops. The best part has to be Jean-Paul Cudennec, with one Michelin star, which plays on the best of Southern French cuisine, as well as Tigre Yoga spa. Visit the wineries of Clos Sainte Magdeleine and Le Clos Albizzi.
SPA
HAMMAM ZEIN An upscale hammam-spa with Moorish tilework, spice-scented air, and soft music. 16 Quai de Rive Neuve; marseille.zeinorientalspa.fr