Montpellier
Faculté de Médecine de Montpellier
Montpellier is a city in southern France near the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. The Gothic Cathédrale Saint-Pierre is distinguished by conical towers, dating to 1364. The city's Antigone district is a modern development inspired by neoclassical motifs, and paintings from French and European Old Masters hang at the Musée Fabre. The city is lively as it is teeming with students due to its six universities, including one of Europe’s oldest— The University of Montpelier founded in 1222. Here is our guide to Montpellier, France.
STAY
LES 4 ÉTOILES A guesthouse with four beautifully decorated rooms on the top floor of a 1930s house.
BAUDON DE MAUNY A boutique hotel that feels more like a château than a townhouse, and has remained in the same family for seven generations.
DOMAINE DE VERCHANT Outside Montpellier, 15 minutes from the beach, this designer hotel and vineyard owned by the Schlumberger family also includes the Villa Sarnelly— a traditional family chateau turned modern hotel with three bedrooms serviced by the hotel.
DINE | DRINK
TERMINAL 1 A pop-up tapas restaurant by 3 Michelin Star Chefs Jacques and Laurent Pourcel with a terrace.
LE PHARE A restaurant set in a restored water tower with revolving panoramic views of the city.
LES BAINS DE MONTPELIER The restored 18th-century public baths are now the setting of a stylish tea room with a palm-shaded patio.
L’HEURE BLEUE A teahouse set in an antiques shop within a hôtel particulier.
ART | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
HÔTEL PARTICULIERS In the case of Montpellier, unless you are visiting a seasoned local, it is worth booking a guide with the Tourism Office as they have the key to many of the hidden courtyards and carved stone stairways of the city's hôtels particuliers. The medieval centre historique is accessible by foot only and perfect for those who enjoy a leisurely flâneur or stroll. There are 16 squares to explore, but don’t miss the Rue de l'Ancien Courrier, a narrow vaulted street paved with gleaming white marble, or the charming rue Trésoriers de la Bourse.
MUSEE ATGER The venerable Faculty of Medicine, a former Benedictine monastery, now houses the museum and a collection of drawings from French, Dutch, German, Italian and Flemish masters, including Rubens, Tiepolo, Carracci, and Fragonard.
MUSEE D'ANATOMIE Also within the Faculty of Medicine and nicknamed 'The Museum of Horrors’ for good reason— you'll find misshapen skulls, hearts, livers, lungs, and a fetus’ which have been preserved for centuries to aid the study of anatomy.
NOTRE-DAME-DES-TABLES The original church of Notre-Dame-des-Tables was destroyed during the religious wars of the early 16th century. Its name refers to 12th-century merchants who consulted conversion tables in what was then a lively marketplace and center of trade for dyed fabrics, exotic herbs, and spices brought by boat from the Middle East.
MUSEE FABRE The Pavillon Fabre is an annex to the Musée Fabre, Montpellier's art museum, and home to one of the largest collections of French paintings outside of Paris. Admire French 19th-century Impressionist works as well as paintings by Montpellier-born artists Frédéric Bazille and Pierre Soulages.
LES JARDIN DES PLANTS This is one of the oldest botanical gardens in Europe, and the oldest in France, created in 1593 by Pierre Richer de Belleval by order of Henri IV. It served as a model for future gardens in France, including the one in Paris designed 40 years later. The poet Paul Valéry is said to have composed verses there while chewing rose petals. Highlights include tropical greenhouses, a 200-year-old ginkgo tree, and a Phillyrea latifolia (mock privet) from the 16th or 17th century that served as a postbox for lovers, who hid messages in the crevices of its gnarled trunk. In contrast, the nearby promenade du Peyrou is a manicured, terraced park full of 100-year-old magnolias, with a statue of Louis XIV and an Arc de Triomphe in his honor.
SHOP
POMME DE REINETTE ET POMME D'API A delightful shop for children and adults alike. A family-owned toystore with various themed rooms and a tiny museum upstairs filled with everything from detailed dollhouses to hot air balloons hanging from the ceiling. Tintin fans will be thrilled with the extensive selection of the adventurous cartoon character.
SPA
LE BAIN D’EPICES A welcoming oasis, especially after a day spent in the warm sun exploring the city. You will be greeted with a mint tea in the tearoom and taken to the stone hammam scented with eucalyptus and orange blossom for your treatment. The boutique sells scented candles, foutas, and woven beach baskets.
DAY & WEEKEND TRIPS
CARCASSONNE The medieval fortified city’s watchtowers and 12th-century château are one of the largest medieval fortresses in Europe. After exploring the castle grounds, stay at the Hôtel de la Cité with views over the battlements and mountains beyond. Dine at the Michelin-starred La Barbacane restaurant— the perfect place to try the region’s famous cassoulet.
CHATEAU PUECH-HAUT In the 1990s, industrialist-turned-winemaker Gérard Bru opened this winery on the grounds of the former Montpellier prefecture chateau in Saint-Drézéry. Visit for a tasting 15km outside of Montpellier
LODEVE AND ST-GUILHEM-LE-DESERT Lodève is the home of a modern art museum with a small but superb fin de siècle collection. St-Guilhem-le-Désert has an 11th-century abbey, and one of the region's most popular sights. Another option is La Petite Camargue, home of the fortified town of Aigues-Mortes. Once a thriving medieval port, it is now a popular nightspot with lively cafés and bars.
MAGUELONE A historic island south of the city on a thin strip of beach with vineyards linked to the mainland by a causeway. Maguelone Cathedral, constructed in the sixth century and rebuilt in the 11th century, served as the regional bishop's seat for 1,000 years, but in 1536, the bishop was transferred to the Cathédrale Saint-Pierre in Montpellier. In 1622, under the orders of Richelieu, the entire village was destroyed, except for the cathedral. Today, the “Cathedral of the Sands” is available to tour.
MAS DE DAUMAS GASSAC The late patron of Daumas Gassac winery, Aime Guibert, was one of the stars of the wonderful wine-centric documentary film, Mondovino. Legend has it that the vineyards were planted in the 8th century by warrior-turned-monk, St Benedict. Visit for a tour and tasting of Languedoc-Roussillon wines, especially the signature red— an intricate blend of grape varieties from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, and Pinot Noir.
Text: Veronica H. Speck Photo: © Faculté de Médecine de Montpellier