New Orleans
“America has only three cities: New York, San Francisco, and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland.” -Tennessee Williams
Brunch at Brennan’s, Slim Aarons, 1960.
New Orleans is a Louisiana city on the Mississippi River, nicknamed the "Big Easy," known for its vibrant Bourbon St. nightlife, live jazz music and low-country cuisine reflecting its history as a melting pot of French, African, and American cultures. Embodying its festive spirit is Mardi Gras, the raucous carnival famed for its parades and street parties.
STAY
THE PONTCHARTRAIN Originally opened in the 1940s in the picturesque Garden District, this hotel has hosted the likes of Frank Sinatra and Rita Hayworth, and Tennessee Williams wrote A Streetcar Named Desire whilst staying here. Restored to its former glory by a multimillion-dollar renovation, this hotel now features comfortable rooms, a prime location on the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line, and a restaurant headed by local celebrity chef John Besh.
THE OLD NO. 77 HOTEL & CHANDLERY Mid-century-inflected design is a reflection of the contemporary South, but its hospitality and attention to detail are timeless. The building is conveniently located off Canal Street, and make sure to request one of the Artist Loft Suites—oversize rooms tastefully outfitted with works from local painters.
THE ACE HOTEL Located in the revitalized Warehouse District with a modern post-industrial design we have come to expect from Ace Hotels. The rooftop bar is lovely for cocktails on a warm summer’s day and there is a Stumptown Coffee on-site.
THE RITZ-CARLTON In the lively French Quarter, this is classic hotel includes a farm-to-table restaurant serving Southern-inspired fare, as well as a lounge with live music.
MAISON DE LA LUZ Located in the warehouse district of New Orleans, this luxurious guesthouse is a private sanctuary replete with the quiet delights of Southern charm.
DRINK | DINE
PÊCHE This James Beard Award-winning seafood restaurant preserves local cooking techniques— try the catfish and Louisiana shrimp roll.
SEAWORTHY The sister restaurant to New York’s Grand Banks, Seaworthy serves seafood dishes including briny oysters from Grand Bay, Alabama.
VESSEL A Mid-City restaurant located in a former church. Standout Southern seafood dishes include the Creole mussels and cast-iron octopus with black-eyed peas.
N7 Located in Bywater, N7 is a neighborhood French restaurant and wine bar founded by filmmaker Aaron Walker and chef Yuki Yamaguchi, specializing in French cuisine infused with a Japanese touch. The restaurant is set amidst a garden previously home to a tire shop and stable for carriage horses. The natural wine menu is focused on small European, winemakers. The name is derived from Nationale 7 (N7), the highway that once ran from Paris to Italy known as the “Route des Vacances,” which vacationing Parisianers would take on their way South. Along the way, the Michelin Guide would direct them to the restaurants; hence the origin of the Michelin Star.
PARKWAY TAVERN A diner serving up the best po’boys in town according to Stirling Barrett, the founder of Krewe.
RESTAURANT R'EVOLUTION This restaurant boasts a 10,000-bottle wine cellar, but we come for the charcuterie boards and gnocchi.
COCHON A lauded choice in charming, historic digs specializing in pork dishes & imaginative Cajun eats (and meats). Order the rabbit and dumplings!
BRENNAN’S The birthplace of Banana’s Foster with delicious gumbo, biscuits, and Oysters Rockefeller.
EMERIL’S BAM! Chef Emeril Lagasse’s restaurant serves Southern classics including fried chicken and cauliflower mac & cheese.
CAFE BEIGNET Order a basket of freshly baked, warm beignets coated in powdered sugar and enjoy them in the charming courtyard on Royal Street.
CAFE DU MONDE Quieu up at this renowned open-air coffee shop on Decatur Street in the French Quarter and order a basket of beignets with a chicory café au lait.
COMMANDER’S PALACE A New Orleans institution since 1880. Order 25 cent Martinis at lunch and listen to jazz in this chandelier-hung space in the Garden District.
BACCHANAL FINE WINE & SPIRITS A wine-&-cheese market and restaurant featuring small plates & live music on a lush back patio.
ARNAUD’S Classic upscale restaurant & lounge featuring Creole cuisine, cocktails & Dixieland jazz since 1918. The best for brunch!
CAROUSEL BAR This bar at the Hotel Monteleone revolves like a carousel. Have a sazerac and enjoy the ride.
JACQUES-IMOS A quirky, mural-lined hot spot luring locals & tourists alike in with its Creole soul food; expect a wait.
PATOIS An airy, upscale spot serving locally sourced French & New American fare by lauded chef Aaron Burgau.
LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH BAR A dimly lit bar, one of the oldest around, serving drinks since the 1700s.
HANSEN’S SNO-BALLS A family-owned sno-ball stand mainstay since 1939 that's famous for soft shaved ice & homemade syrups.
MAHONEY’S PO-BOYS The best po-boy sandwiches on Magazine Street.
STEIN’S DELI Delicious sandwiches on Magazine Street.
MILK BAR A popular lunch and sandwich spot.
SUPERIOR SEAFOOD A seafood restaurant on Saint Charles Street with Gulf Oysters.
CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE A microbrewery with a mean shrimp/oyster/catfish po-boy. If you're feeling adventurous, order the seafood cheesecake appetizer and a glass of Red Stallion.
SURREY’S UPTOWN Go for brunch and order the chicken and waffles. Les Bon Temps Rouler next door has the best Bloody Mary- spicy and filled with string beans, olives, celery, and tomatoes.
LIL' DIZZY'S CAFE Creole gumbo, seafood platters, and po-boys.
PAT O’BRIENS Home of the Hurricane. Order one to go and visit Marie Laveau's House Of Voodoo next door before sauntering down Bourbon Street. Tropical Isle next door has a famous (and strong) hand grenade cocktail. Perhaps drink one before singing karaoke at Cat's Meow.
MAISON A bar with a live jazz brass band in Marigny. Blue Nile, Hi-Ho Lounge, and Maple Leaf Bar (where Rebirth Brass band plays every Tuesday) also have live music. Mimi's in the Marigny, The Sazerac, Cure, Monkey Hill, and the Rusty Nail are other options.
REFUEL Locals line up for the eclectic breakfast at this quaint cafe with healthy options.
SATSUMA CAFE A coffeehouse with locally sourced food and a patio.
RUBY SLIPPER A cafe serving signature Eggs Benedict and Southern brunch fare.
GALATOIRE'S A fine-dining, century-old institution serving French-Creole fare in a jacket’s-required space.
PARKWAY BAKERY A spot for lunch with surf & turf and abita brew.
DAT DOG A late-night spot serving up hot dogs.
WILLIE MAE'S SCOTCH HOUSE A family-owned spot since 1957, famous for fried chicken & other soul food in a humble setting.
COMPANY BURGER Uptown and Downtown locations for burgers.
GAUTREAU'S Intimate, secluded spot for sophisticated American-French cuisine, housed in a former pharmacy.
LA PETITE GROCERY The place to try the New Orleans specialty, muffuletta, which originated among Italian immigrants, and consists of a sandwich containing sliced salami, ham, Swiss cheese, provolone, and mortadella.
ACME OYSTER HOUSE Order the char-grilled oysters on the half shell!
CRESCENT CITY STEAKHOUSE Sizzling steaks in space from 1934.
SOBOU The W Hotel restaurant and lounge serve elevated Creole bar food and cocktails.
TABLEAU Classic French-Creole cooking served in an elegant 3-story townhouse with an open kitchen & balcony.
CAMELLIA GRILL Fabled institution for diner fare dished out by bow-tied servers, plus late-night dining.
ART | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM A military history museum home to the LCVP, or Higgins boat, the landing craft that brought US soldiers to shore.
AUDOBON INSTITUTE A nonprofit with a local zoo, aquarium, and park dedicated to preserving and celebrating nature.
OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART Located in the Warehouse Arts District downtown, holding the largest and most comprehensive collection of Southern art.
PRESERVATION HALL A must visit jazz venue in the French Quarter with a house band, a record label, and a non-profit foundation. Book in advance.
CITY PARK Botanical gardens, mini-golf, paddle boats, and Morning Call cafe with beignets.
NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART The oldest fine arts museum in New Orleans within City Park.
VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOUR Learn all about New Orleans haunted past on this walking tour, focusing around Voodoo.
LAFAYETTE CEMETERY Kill time here (no pun intended) while waiting for your brunch reservation at Commander’s Palace across the street. Lafayette is a historic cemetery in the Garden District founded in 1833.
STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ DAYTIME JAZZ CRUISE Twice daily Harbor Jazz Cruise on the authentic Steamboat Natchez.
LONGUE VUE PLANTATION Longue Vue House and Gardens is the former home of Edgar Stern and Edith Rosenwald Stern, and now a historic house museum.
BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM Learn all about the origins of Mardis Gras at this museum.
SHOP
KREWE New Orleans founded an independent eyewear company with a backyard garden.
FRENCHMEN STREET ART MARKET A destination for handmade New Orleans art.
Text: Veronica H. Speck Photo: Slim Aarons, © Getty Images