Newport
Nora Cushing and Mrs Peter Vought, Newport, RI, September 1965, Slim Aarons
Newport is set on Aquidneck Island in Rhode Island. Its yacht-filled harbor hosted America’s Cup, a renowned annual sailing regatta, for many years. Newport is also home to dozens of Gilded Age mansions lining Bellevue Avenue, including The Breakers, an 1895 mansion-turned museum patterned after a Renaissance palace. Here is our guide to Newport, Rhode Island.
STAY
CASTLE HILL INN Grace Kelly’s favorite private beach is on-premises, which is reason enough to stay at this historic Relais & Châteux hotel on the hill. Visit the 19th-century lighthouse or rent the hotel’s yacht to picnic on a nearby island. In addition to regular hotel rooms overlooking the Atlantic, a harbor chalet or beach cottage with gas fireplaces, whirlpool tubs, and private beaches. The two hotel restaurants, including The Lawn, source local ingredients such as clam chowder and lobster rolls. Sit in the Adirondack chairs on the sprawling lawn, and enjoy a cocktail at sunset.
THE CHANLER AT CLIFF WALK A classic New England hotel at the base of Newport’s famous Cliff Walk, a seaside trail dotted with historic mansions, like the The Breakers and The Marble House. It was the first mansion built along this route for Congressman Chanler and his wife, an Astor heiress, and it has been carefully restored. The rooms are decorated from Colonial to Greek Revival, and filled with antiques. During the summer, the hotel offers a “Beach Butler” who will set you up on the beach of your choice with chairs, towels, an umbrella, a picnic lunch, and a ride to and from.
GURNEY'S NEWPORT RESORT AND MARINA The sister property to Gurney's Montauk (they even operate helicopter service between the two). The Goat Island location has views of Narragansett Bay, and the hotel has its own marina as well as complimentary bikes, weekend yoga, and a seawater spa. Dining options include Scarpetta.
THE VANDERILT Built by the Vanderbilt family during the Gilded Age era, this three-story house has been restored to its former glory and converted into a boutique hotel with a spa, swimming pool, and fitness center. Visit the rooftop bar for harbor views.
41 NORTH Set in a shingle-style building near Thames Street and the famous gilded mansions, 41 North is set in a prime location. The hotel caters specifically to yachters, and the restaurant and rooms offer marina views.
HOTEL VIKING The brick-clad Hotel Viking is nearly 100 years old, and is located in a prime location in downtown Newport.
DINE | DRINK
CLARKE COOKE HOUSE This Bannister Wharf eatery is the quintessential Newport dining experience, and a must-stop while in town. Make a reservation at sunset and enjoy the view while enjoying clam chowder, lobster rolls, or the off-menu summer sushi, and save room for the “snowball in hell” dessert. Chef Tom Gidley came from The French Laundry, and has been the Executive Chef for twenty years. After dinner, wander upstairs to the candlelit sky bar for dancing.
WHITE HORSE TAVERN One of the oldest dining establishments in Newport, this tavern dates back to 1673, when it was a colonial watering hole, and it looks it with patriotic flag curtains, deep fireplaces, and woodsy interiors. Chef Rich Silvia serves traditional dishes like clam chowder, fish cakes, lobster macaroni & cheese, and clam boils.
THE BLACK PEARL The Black Pearl is a historic Newport institution with a waterfront patio, the Commodore’s Room below deck, and The Tavern sports bar. Order the classic Black Pearl Clam Chowder!
NEWPORT LOBSTER SHACK Started by local fishermen, this co-op began as a way to sell their fresh catch directly to the public. Offerings include wild-caught crab, conch, and lobster as well as lobster bites, bisque, cakes, and perhaps the best lobster roll in Newport. They also ship so you can create your own Rhode Island Newport Lobster Shack experience at home with recipes from The Fisherman’s Table. Their motto is “we only sell what we catch.”
BRICKLEY'S ICE CREAM Locals proclaim it is the best ice cream in New England, and Brickley’s has been a Rhode Island institution since the '90s when it was first opened by husband-and-wife duo, Steve and Chris Brophy. Make sure to order the homemade ice cream in Brickley’s signature waffle cones.
SWEET BERRY FARM This Middletown farmstand was founded by farmers Jan Paul and Michelle Eckhart, offering fresh-cut flowers and jams as well as year-round, pick-your-own produce, including berries and peaches in the summer, apples and pumpkins in the fall, and Christmas trees in the winter.
MATUNUCK OYSTER BAR Grow, harvest, serve is the motto of this seafood restaurant just ten minutes from Newport and owned by oysterman Perry Raso. The fresh fish is sourced from adjacent Potter Pond with its shellfish beds. Perry is at the forefront of sustainable aquaculture, and his menu featuring wild-caught and farm-raised fish reflects it. Try oysters from the raw bar, tuna tartar tacos and scallop ceviche, and lobster or Alaskan king crab.
THE LAWN The restaurant at The Castle Hill Inn is the place to be at sunset. Order champagne and oysters at sunset and relax into one of the Adirondack chairs overlooking the East Bay and watch the sailboats and yachts pass by.
NEWPORT CREAMERY Newport Creamery began by delivering local milk to residents in the ’30s before opening a “milk bar” on Main Road, and a soda fountain off Bellevue Ave. They serve up classic shakes like the “Awful Awful” as well as sundaes, and cones with flavors ranging from black raspberry to maple walnut.
FLO'S CLAM SHACK Flo’s is a classic pit stop and fish shack complete with picnic tables and tchotchkes hanging from the ceiling. They opened in 1936, and have been serving fried clams and clam chowder to New England ever since.
FLUKE As the name suggests, order the fluke at this fine dining establishment by owners and friends, Geremie and Jeff.
STONEACRE BRASSERIE If you need a break from seafood, try the elegeant Stoneacre Brasserie with a locally sourced menu including carrot gnocchi and steak tartare.
TSK AT THE REVOLVING DOOR Thames Street Kitchen opened up shop in the Revolving Door, which previously hosted guest chefs in residency.
THE NITRO BAR Locally sourced and brewed coffee with delicous breakfast sandwiches.
COFFEE GRINDER A coffee shop located on Bannister's Wharf overlooking the harbor, and the perfect spot to enjoy a cappuccino and slize of zucchini bread on the patio.
ART | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
BAILEY'S BEACH CLUB A private beach and member’s only club that opened in the 1890’s, and has attracted notable local Newport families such as the Vanderbilts and Astors. It came under scrutiny in recent years for lack of diversity, but if you do manage to snag a membership or attend with a guest, make sure to order the classic club sandwich or lobster roll with a side of fries and enjoy the people watching.
REJECTS BEACH If you aren’t able to secure a membership or entrace to the famed exclusive Bailey’s Beach Club then head next door to the appropriately named “Reject’s Beach,” open to the public on the same stretch of sand.
INTERNATIONAL TENNIS HALL OF FAME Newport is known as the sailing capital of the world, but the city is also deeply rooted in tennis. Visit the International Tennis Hall of Fame on Bellevue Avenue for a tour of the famous grounds and the museum or book a court for a doubles match. Remember to pack your whites or stop into The Shop to pick up a new look to sport. It is housed in the former Newport Casino built by McKim, Mead, and White, in a grand, old shingle-style National Historic Landmark building. The Hall of Fame Tennis Championships, an ATP World Tour event, has been held here since July 1976.
NEWPORT POLO CLUB The Newport International Polo Grounds & Pavilion is the oldest in the country, founded in 1876, and still offering matches every Saturday in the summer. Pack a hat, a bottle of champagne, cheese, and a picnic blanket to take part in the festivities.
NEW YORK YACHT CLUB As the sailing capital of the United States, Newport boasts many yacht clubs, including the New York Yacht Club, which maintains its on-the-water clubhouse here, and chose it as the venue for America's Cup between 1930 and 1983.
CLIFF WALK The Cliff Walk is Newport's signature hike with one side offering views of the coast, and the other of the famed gilded mansions. The full three-and-a-half mile trail will offer views of the Marble House, Rough Point, and the Renaissance-style The Breakers.
NEWPORT MANSIONS The turn of the century brought heirs and heiresses to the Newport shoreline, and therefore their grand summer houses. Taking inspiration from Versailles and Italy’s Renaissance palazzos, The Vanderbilt’s built The Breakers and Marble House, Doris Duke commissioned Rough Point, and heiress Theresa Oelrichs built Rosecliff (where the original Great Gatsby with Robert Redford and Mia Farrow was filmed). The Elms was designed by Horace Trumbauer for coal baron Edward Julius Berwind, taking inspiration from the 18th century Château d'Asnières in Asnières-sur-Seine, France. Other options to tour include Chateu Sur Mer, Kingscote, the Isaac Bell House, Hunter House, and Chepstow.
EASTONS BEACH One of Newport’s most popular (and only ocean) beaches complete with a playground, merry-go-round, and aquarium, as well as Del’s Lemonade, and lobster rolls
GREEN ANIMALS TOPIARY GARDEN
The name explains it all! Pack a picnic from Le Petit Gourmet on the way and head 20 minutes to Portsmouth. There’s a mansion on the property with an antique toy collection, but the real attraction is the multitude of topiary animals, geometric shapes, and manicured flower gardens outdoors.
NEWPORT ART MUSEUM The permanent collection focuses on American art from the 19th century to the present day.
AUDRAIN AUTO MUSEUM The Audrain Building is located in the Belleveue Avenue/Casino Historic District, part of the National Register of Historic Places. Today, it is home to classic and vintage cars, and hosted the Newport Concours & Motor Week in 2019.
WHITEHORNE HOUSE MUSEUM The focus of this collection is 18th-century furniture made in Newport with an emphasis on local craftsmanship.
REDWOOD LIBRARY The Redwood Library is half library and half museu, built in 1747, making it the oldest lending center in the United States. The Peter Harrison-designed building holds a treasure trove of rare books and artifacts, including letters from Edith Wharton and a “how-to” guide by England’s most beloved gardener, Lancelot “Capability” Brown. Pick up a book and read in the grand Terry Reading Room.
SCHOONER AQUIDNECK See Newport by sea through Newport Harbor, Narragansett Bay, and Fort Adams, Hammersmith Farm (the childhood home of Jackie Kennedy), and Ocean Drive.
CLASSIC CRUISES OF NEPORT Book a cruise on the 58-foot motor yacht Rum Runner II or the 72-foot sailing vessel Madeleine, offering trips around Narragansett Bay.
SHOP
NEWPORT LAMP & SHADE COMPANY Christopher Spitzmiller lamps, antique Chinese pottery, and more fill this jewel box of a store.
SPRING STREET BOOKSTORE A literary treasure chest, which offers new and used titles inside the charming shop.
BANNISTER AND BOWEN WHARFS These wharves have some of the best boutiques and art galleries in all of Newport. Visit Monelle's for yacht-themed accessories and cashmere sweaters or Mandarine Boutique for swimsuits made for the French Rivera or Saint Barth's. Royal Male offers local and European designers.
ISOUDE Isoude's colorful patterns make these prim and proper dresses stand out in a crowd.
CLOSET REVIVAL A great vintage and consignment store in town.
SPA
BODHI SPA Bodhi Spa might be Newport's best-kept secret summer escape. Get The Water Journey, a multi-step hydrotherapy treatment, which comes with a plunge pool eucalyptus steam room.The spa also offers hot stone massages and custom facials.
Text: Veronica H. Speck Photo: Slim Aarons/Hulton Archive/Getty Images)