Palm Beach

Alice Topping at home by Slim Aarons

In 1937, photographer Cecil Beaton summed up a trip to Palm Beach as: “Tennis, swimming, lunch. Golf, drinks, dinner. The Patio. Bradley’s. Bed.” 80 years later, there may be some new stores on Worth Avenue, but the Beaton-described spirit of Palm Beach is the same: a place of retro luxury where leisure sports and tropical tradition reign supreme. Here is our guide to Palm Beach.

STAY

THE BREAKERS An iconic and historic resort located on the ocean in the middle of town, walking distance from both famed shopping on Worth Avenue. Dripping with quintessential Palm Beach charm, the rooms are outfitted in chic, happy design schemes: think bamboo beds and bountiful botanical prints. Incredibly family-friendly, the resort offers beach service, tennis, golf, a kid’s club, and more. The building has a long history: after fires ravaged the original property in both 1903 and 1925, Breakers founder Henry M. Flagler, of Standard Oil fame reopened the property in 1926 with help from New York architects Schultze and Weaver—the same creative minds who brought to life iconic hotels such as the Pierre, and Park Avenue’s Waldorf Astoria. Recently renovated, the hotel maintains much of its original integrity (the ceilings in the lobby entrance are not to be missed—nor are the legendary Christmas decorations).

THE COLONY Opened in 1947, this iconic pink hotel has hosted everyone from Frank Sinatra to the Duke and Duchess of Windsor. A recent $18 million renovation by famed designer Carleton Varney managed to retain the old-school charm of the hotel while brightening the property’s ninety rooms and suites with a fresh palette of classic Florida Pantones: aqua, lemon yellow, azalea pink, golf-course green. Rooms are done up in classic Palm Beach style, but they’ve been updated with gleaming marble bathrooms and Ortigia Sicilia toiletries. Artist and Vogue alum Kate Schelter, a darling of the fashion world, helped out with the rebranding; her chic Sea Grape print adorns everything from matchboxes to stationery. When you’re having lunch by the pool (we suggest the Caesar salad and key lime pie), you’ll feel as if you’re living in a Slim Aarons photo. Grab one of the hotel’s white bikes and pedal along the six-mile paved Lake Trail, which winds past colossal mansions, or ask a pink-shirted bellhop to ferry you to the beach in a pink-and-green golf cart (along with complimentary pink striped chairs and a beach umbrella). There’s no gym, but guests have access to the palm-lined seven-court Seaview Park Tennis Center nearby.

BRAZILIAN COURT Elegant Spanish Colonial architecture and a lush tropical courtyard mingle with warm ocean breezes at the boutique hotel. A historic landmark infused with Art Deco 1920’s glamour, the private, 80-room enclave is a classic Palm Beach getaway—bringing together stunning, high-style accommodations and impeccable service for an unforgettable experience. Café Boulud is the on-site Daniel Boulud restaurant— order the signature cosmopolitan and passion fruit soufflé.

THE EAU PALM BEACH A ten-minute drive from Worth Avenue, it’s complete with one of the best and most awarded spas in the country, with accommodations designed by Jonathan Adler. One of only two Forbes Five Star resorts in Palm Beach (the other is The Breakers) and eight in Florida, as well as a AAA Five Diamond Resort, the Eau is all about customer service. Much of the staff has been there for 20-plus years, giving the hotel a familiar feel from the second you step into the entryway’s roundabout portico.

WHITE ELEPHANT PALM BEACH The original White Elephant hotel in Nantucket is a legendary locale, so it’s no surprise that their recently opened Palm Beach outpost is the talk of the town. The hotel’s contemporary interpretation of Mediterranean-revival architecture reflects the pulse and excitement of Palm Beach, while capturing the spirit of a stately home—allowing for a cozy, boutique feel. The building, established in 1924, was renovated by Boston-based Elkus Manfredi Architects to include 13 deluxe rooms and 19 suites, including The Park Suite, which was recently awarded "Best Suite" in by the Gold Key Awards for Excellence in Hospitality Design. 

DRINK | DINE

SANT AMBROEUS The design of the Palm Beach location of the Milanese chain is inspired by the Gran Caffé's of the 1950's in Italy, a mix of clean modern lines with a warm traditional atmosphere. Stop in for a cappuccino or cornetto in the morning or aperitif in the evening.

CAFÉ BOULUD Chef Daniel Boulud's award-winning restaurant in the heart of the historic Brazilian Court Hotel, steps from Worth Avenue.

BUCCAN Chef Clay Conley is behind Buccan, Imoto, the Sandwich Shop, and Grato. You can’t go wrong with any of them, but his first, the small-plate bistro Buccan, is especially delicious. The ingredient-driven menu is always changing, and if you’re lucky, it’ll include chilled Florida pink shrimp with avocado and mango, ramp crostini with whipped burrata, Florida snapper, or sweet-corn agnolotti.

PIZZA AL FRESCO As the name suggests, brick-oven pizza is served under the leafy canopy of century-old banyan trees in this gorgeous courtyard garden off of Worth Avenue.

SEAFOOD BAR AT THE BREAKERS Watch the rolling waves at this oceanfront, nautical-themed restaurant nestled in the Breakers, the stunning Italian Renaissance–style landmark property. Have a drink at the thirty-six-foot aquarium bar as the fish flit all around.

LE BILBOQUET A New York City favorite known for its raucous parties and excellent Cajun chicken, just opened its Worth Avenue iteration.

LA GOULUE A treasured Manhattan institution, opened up in 2020, offering up its signature French cuisine with a side of gorgeous scenery.

PALM BEACH GRILL AND HONOR BAR A buzzing bar scene and the perfect place to begin or end your evening.

CARRIAGE HOUSE A private, members-only club outfitted by international interior designer Luis Bustamante and modeled after 5 Hertford Street, the famed Mayfair supper club.

GREEN'S PHARMACY Dine like a true local at this old-fashioned luncheonette and pharmacy. In fact, JFK used to take his coffee at the Green’s luncheonette counter.

SURFSIDE DINER A casual, local spot for diner favorites like eggs, bacon, and pancakes.

ART | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES

FLAGLER HOUSE MUSEUM When it was completed in 1902, the New York Herald proclaimed that Whitehall, Henry Flagler's Gilded Age estate in Palm Beach, was "more wonderful than any palace in Europe, grander and more magnificent than any other private dwelling in the world." Today, Whitehall is a National Historic Landmark and is open to the public as the Flagler Museum, offering self-guided tours, changing exhibitions, and special programs.

NORTON MUSEUM OF ART The sleek Norton Museum of Art recently underwent a massive $100 million expansion, courtesy of star architect Sir Norman Foster. It’s easy to while away a day here, with over 8,200 works in five curatorial departments (and don’t miss the stunning new sculpture garden). American art is particularly well represented; pieces by Edward Hopper, Georgia O’Keeffe, and Jackson Pollock, among many others, fill the walls.

GAVLAK GALLERY This spare, light-flooded gallery, which has another location in Los Angeles, represents over twenty cutting-edge contemporary artists, including Judith Eisler, Jose Alvarez, and T. J. Wilcox. Since the venue opened in 2005, founder Sarah Gavlak has been a champion of female and LGBTQ artists.

THE SOCIETY OF THE FOUR ARTS A non-profit founded in 1936 that provides truly rich cultural programming—not to mention it’s housed in an utterly magnificent historic Addison Mizner building. Check the roster for an impressive array of guest speakers, films, concerts, and art exhibitions, and don’t miss the gorgeous sculpture and botanical gardens.

THE KRAVIS CENTER FOR THE PERFORMING ARTS Enjoy outdoor jazz performances.

BEACH WALK The best way to fulfill an architecture lover’s dreams is a beach walk alongside the historic estates designed by Marion Sims Wyeth, Maurice Fatio and Joseph Urban in plain view—keep an eye out for famous homes such as Estée Lauder’s big white estate, still in use with the family today, and the former Kennedy compound, recently restored as a private residence.

SHOP

ROYAL POINCIANA PLAZA The Royal Poinciana Plaza, a luxe indoor/outdoor shopping enclave framed around two lush, leafy courtyards, was designed by famed architect John Volk in the ’50s and recently revamped. There are plenty of inventive, high-end boutiques, among them Kirna Zabête, Assouline, and Zadig & Voltaire. After shopping, hit Sant Ambroeus for a cup of sublime gelato or visit blue-chip art galleries like Aquavella.

WORTH AVENUE Worth Avenue’s sumptuous palm-lined shopping district has both big names (Gucci, Chanel) and local institutions (Leta Austin Foster for sublime children’s clothes, Lindroth Design for housewares, like block-print table linens in sunny colors). One of the newest shops is LaunchPad, a living-room-like store that offers a revolving roster of clothing, accessories, and home décor. The founders—two former fashion editors—seek out emerging brands from all over the world, many of which are otherwise available only online. Recent offerings include floaty dresses from Laura Garcia, elegant striped sweaters from NYC’s La Ligne, and colorful beaded jewelry from local artisan Allegra Fanjul. Yet arguably the best part about Palm Beach shopping is its vintage stores. The Church Mouse, located just north of Worth, is 4,500 square feet of heaven—from vintage Hermes bags and Chanel blazers to one-of-a-kind china, quirky lamps, and everything in between.

ANTIQUE ROW Two city blocks worth of antique furniture stores with roots that date back to the 1960s and beyond. Ranging in style from rattan and wicker island finds to opulent Louis XIV, there is something for everyone in this true treasure trove—particularly perfect for anyone who appreciates a bit of patina. First up on the must-see list is Casa Gusto, a space filled with antiques, objets d’art curated with—you guessed it—gusto. Helmed by proprietor Cris Briger and her two sons, Augie and Charlie, Casa Gusto opened its doors on Georgia Avenue in 2018. The beloved space is filled with goods both old and new, gathered and invented, from around the globe. For absolutely perfect vintage rattan at any price (and tons of rare pieces by Mario Lopez Torres, in which they specialize), pop into Circa Who. Head to James & Jeffrey for beautifully crafted pieces from the 18th and 19th Century, Faustina Pace Antiques & Interiors for well-curated mid-century and French and Swedish country style items (think: worn antique clay decanters) and Authentic Provence for just that: touted as “the leading source of fine European garden antiques, reclaimed building materials and period furniture,” they do not disappoint. On the theme of Provence, head into Blue Provence once back on the island, a favorite for sandwiches on hearty baguette and delicious éclairs. For beautiful hostess gifts, interior designer Amanda Lindroth’s island store on South County Road has all the essentials with none of the fuss. In the same vein with a global, layered bent, internationally renowned AD100 interior designer Alessandra Branca recently opened her shop, Casa Branca, on Worth Avenue, showcasing her beautiful array of fabrics, wallpapers, antiques, porcelain and more, with her signature elegance and warm panache. And what began as a small D. Porthault linen boutique in 1985 emerged into one of the preeminent tabletop retailers today: Mary Mahoney. An institution on Worth Avenue in existence for three decades, it’s a must-do for anyone who covets exotic dinnerware or sparkling flatware (brides, take note of their exceptional registry offering). Il Papiro, the famed Florentine stationery, has its last remaining U.S. outpost on Worth Avenue—head here for notebooks and unique handmade stationery. And for those who want to take part in the Palm Beach tradition of monogramming everything (truly, everything), Lori Jayne is your girl.

KEMBLE INTERIORS Spend any time in Palm Beach and you’ll soon decide you need more color and whimsy in your life. When this happens, proceed directly to the charming, ivy-covered Kemble Interiors shop, recently opened by designers Celerie Kemble and her mom, Mimi McMakin. You’ll want to snap up everything from colorful, elegant Indian tunics to sweet seashell votives to rattan lamps to the shop’s famous pineapple sconces.

Text: Veronica H. Speck Photo: Slim Aarons, © Getty Images