Rio De Janeiro
“It is not the right angle that attracts me, nor the straight line, hard and inflexible, created by man. What attracts me is the free and sensual curve — the curve that I find in the mountains of my country, in the sinuous course of its rivers, in the body of the beloved women” - Oscar Niemeyer
UNESCO has named Rio as its first World Capital of Architecture for 2020, and for good reason. Rio is one of our favorite cities for design: from the pseudo-extraterrestrial Museum of Contemporary Art in Niterói, designed by the late Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer (the striking modernist building also served as the stage for Louis Vuitton’s Resort 2017 show) to his impressive Niterói Contemporary Art Museum to the undulating curves of its Burle Marx designed sidewalks. Some of our favorite current Brazilian architects working today include Isay Weinfeld, who has been tapped to design Chef Daniel Boulud’s new restaurant in One Vanderbilt in New York City, as well as his student Felipe Hess, and designers including the Campana Brothers.
STAY
HOTEL EMÍLIANO RIO A walnut Noguchi table greets you upon entering this understand hotel off the Avenue Atlântico in Copacabana. Elements of high design continue throughout the hotel, including the restaurant which features “Lampião” chairs designed by Arthur Casas, and launched during Salone Del Mobile in Milano. Biophilic vertical garden walls envelop the restaurant, successfully bringing the outside in. Escape to the rooftop infinity pool for unparalleled views.
HOTEL FASANO RIO Designed inside and out by Philippe Starck, Fasano incorporates ironwood from northern Brazil, white marble from Greece, onyx from China, and salvaged 19th-century Argentinian bricks. The hotel also includes a restaurant and bar with live music. The defining feature is the rooftop pool with sweeping views over the Burle Marx-designed boardwalk between Arpoador and Ipanema Beach and on to the Dois Irmãos Mountains.
COPACABANA PALACE, A BELMOND HOTEL Perhaps the best place to savor a caipirinha poolside and watch the sun descend over Copacabana Beach before heading to Restaurant Mee for dinner. This Art Deco Grande Dame was inspired by Côte d’Azur hotels, built by Joseph Gire in 1910, with a refurbishing by Michel Jouannet. It also had a starring role in the Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers film, Flying Down to Rio.
SANTA THERESA HOTEL RJ- M GALLERY In the heart of the hills of bohemian Santa Teresa, this restored plantation house is surrounded by an exotic garden teeming with colorful flowers, with a contemporary design courtesy of Studio Vitty and Sergio Rodrigues with custom-made pieces from local ateliers that complement traditional craft items sourced from indigenous peoples. We especially love the rooftop pool and bar at twilight. The sounds of samba drift up from the street and one can’t help but feel the rhythm of the night.
JANEIRO HOTEL Our favorite new hotel in Leblon by Osklen fashion designer Oscar Metsavaht with circular windows overlooking the Cagarras Islands from the restaurant and rooftop pool.
MAMA SHELTER The first Brazilian outpost of the Paris boutique hotel chain. Located in Santa Theresa with a bustling restaurant, bar, and terrace.
ARPOADOR HOTEL As the name implies, Arpoador is situated between Ipanema and Copacabana. Enjoy drinks and dinner at the beach bar and restaurant, Arp.
HOTEL NACIONAL Recently re-opened, this hotel was designed by Famed Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer. Hard to miss, it is set in a 34-story cylindrical glass tower with floor-to-ceiling windows and contemporary furnishings.
MAMA RUISA The so-called Sintra of Rio, this delightful boutique hotel in the hills of Santa Theresa is run by Jean Michel Ruis in a high-ceilinged 1871 mansion overlooking Guanabara Bay and Sugarloaf Mountain. The eclectic design reflects Ruis’s worldly sensibilities, bringing together Jean Cocteau drawings, Marimekko prints, Belle Époque china, and Madeleine Castaing fabrics with vintage furniture, historic maps, and contemporary artworks from Santa Teresa. Each of the seven rooms is uniquely decorated around a different theme- our personal favorite is The Carmen Miranda Suite, a colorful tribute to the Brazilian beauty.
LA SUITE BY DUSSOL Situated next to Barra da Tijuca, this intimate property with a rooftop helipad attracts a discreet clientele drawn to the tranquillity of its greenery, ocean vistas, and infinity pool. The 1968 residence, originally designed by José Zanine Caldas, was updated recently… and we especially love that each suite is named after the color of the marble used in the bathtubs.
DINE | DRINK
APRAZÍVEL Book a table at sunset and thank us later. Brazilian cuisine & cachaça are produced in this country-home setting with gardens and views of Rio from the hilltops of Santa Theresa.
SUSHI LEBLON A Leblon staple for over ten years, serving creative, contemporary Japanese dishes in a cozy setting complete with a veranda and an aquarium.
OLYMPE An upscale French restaurant by Chef Claude Troisgros who carries on the torch of nouvelle cuisine that his father Pierre helped ignite, marrying French techniques with Brazilian ingredients at his restaurant at the foot of Corcovado Mountain.
OTEQUE After running acclaimed restaurant Epice in São Paulo, Alberto Landgraf moved to Rio de Janeiro and opened the two Michelin star Oteque, complete with modern décor and an open kitchen serving an eight-course menu featuring local produce.
CONFEITARIA COLOMBO Resplendent in historic Art Nouveau decor in the city center- complete with French stained glass, brocaded Belgian mirrors, and Portuguese tiles. Order a cafézinho and a brigadeiro and soak in the splendor. A smaller location can be found in the Forte de Copacabana.
VERO GELATO A popular spot in Ipanema for gelato using all-natural ingredients. We recommend the Maracuja flavor!
BAR E RESTAURANTE URCA Order a caipi and bowl of moqueca with a side of bolinho de bacalhau and take a seat on the cobbled wall of the boardwalk. Cheer on the teenagers playing futebol on the beach.
BARETTO-LONDRA A cozy English pub in the back of the Fasano Hotel with live music in the evening.
EMILE RESTAURANT An upscale Italian restaurant in the Hotel Emiliano featuring “Lampião” chairs designed by Arthur Casas and a vertical living garden wall.
RIO SCENARIUM The place for live samba music in the trendy Lapa district.
LASAI A Basque-inspired modern restaurant in Botafogo by Chef Rafa Costa e Silv Rafa Costa e Silva (formerly of the Michelin-starred Mugaritz in Spain).
BAR DO MINEIRO The cure for indulging in one too many caipirinhas is a hearty bowl of feijoada (a meat and bean stew) served on Sundays at this Santa Theresa staple.
BIRA DE GUARATIBA RESTAURANTE Forty minutes down the coast in Barra de Guaratiba, dine amidst the trees under the thatched-roof of this seafood restaurant with a view.
ACADEMIA DA CACHACA Take your pick from more than 80 types of cachaça at this Leblon landmark.
BAR BUKOWSKI As the name suggests, the renegade spirit of its namesake novelist lives on at this raucous Rio bar in a historic mansion with a garden and vinyl record collection.
COMUNA A multi-cultural space in “BotaSoho,” it is part bar, restaurant, bookstore, and art space, and host to live music, book releases, and art exhibitions.
GALERIA CAFE A jewelry store by day and nightclub by night in Ipanema.
CASA DA MATRIZ A ramshackle house turned two-story dance club once owned by the proprietor’s grandparents and filled with arcade games.
CLUBE DOS DEMOCRÁTICOS For a traditional option, this samba bar by the Orquestra Republicanahas been around since 1867- lessons are available.
CIRCO VOADOR The Flying Circus is a concert venue with a palm-tree-lined terrace in Lapa.
CASA DA FEIJOADO Another option to try the famed traditional Brazilian stew on a Sunday afternoon.
GURUMÉ A Japanese restaurant designed by Thiago Bernardes with Brazilian teak throughout the dining room.
BIBI SUCOS A casual chain serving the best acai bowls, fresh juice and coconut water, and delicious sandwiches. bibisucos.com.br/
BAR BRACARENSE A great place to go after the beach in Leblon for bolinho de bacalhau and ice cold beer. R. José Linhares, 85
TALHO CAPIXABA A breakfast spot in Leblon serving artisanal breads and homemade pastries. Av. Ataulfo de Paiva; talhocapixaba.com.br
BAR SOBE A local spot for authentic Brazilian food and cocktails. R. Pacheco Leão, 724
ARTS | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
JARDIM BOTÂNICO Arrive early to avoid the tourists and sit at the poolside cafe of the Parque Lage under the welcoming arms of Cristo Redentor. Originally planted as a royal nursery for nineteenth-century Prince Dom João VI, the gardens’ more than 13,000 species of plants and trees are the backdrop for monkeys, toucans, and other fauna in this verdant paradise.
NITERÓI CONTEMPORARY ART MUSEUM (MAC) Don’t be deterred by traffic as this sits a bit outside of Rio proper. It is well worth the journey, especially if you can catch the sun setting from this Oscar Niemeyer masterpiece.
TEATRO POPULAR DE NITERÓI A performing arts theatre with undulating white and yellow curves and spiral staircases by architect and wunderkind Oscar Niemeyer. In addition to theater, the building is home to a variety of arts programs, from dance to photography as well as workshops and artist residencies.
MUSEUS DO BENJAMIN CONSTANT The former residence of politician and military officer Benjamin Constant and contains his original furniture and personal belongings, as well as beautiful gardens overlooking the neighborhood of Santa Teresa.
MOSTEIRO DE SÃO BENTO One of the best examples of Brazilian colonial architecture, the Mosteiro de São Bento was completed in 1671 and remains an abbey today. A plan exterior reveals an ornately gilded jewel box of an interior.
MUSEU DE ARTE MODERNA DO RIO DE JANEIRO The concrete Museu de Arte Moderna do Rio de Janeiro in Flamengo Park was designed by Affonso Eduardo Reidy and completed in 1955. The angular external pillars and large windows overlook a garden, designed by Roberto Burle Marx.
PÃO DE AÇÚCAR Sugarloaf Mountain is accessible by cable cars, but we suggest hiking down to see the marmosets peaking out from the trees!
FORT COPACABANA A military base open to the public, containing the Museu Histórico do Exército and a small outpost of Confeitaria Colombo.
PARQUE DAS RUÍNAS A public park in Santa Theresa with an art gallery and bar built around the ruins of a mansion, and a venue for live outdoor concerts.
JOCKEY CLUB One of Brazil’s largest and loveliest racetracks with a great view of the mountains and Corcovado, the Joquei Clube (Jockey Club) seats 35,000, and lies on the Gávea side of Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, opposite Praça Santos Dumont. Races are held on Mondays, Tuesdays, Saturdays, and Sundays. The big event is the Brazilian Grand Prix (Grande Prêmio Brasil), usually held on the first or second Sunday in June.
MUSEU DO AMANHÃ Designed by Spanish neo-futuristic architect Santiago Calatrava, The Museum of Tomorrow is a science museum built on the waterfront at Pier Maua.
SÍTIO BURLE MARX The former property of renowned landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx with lush grounds, as expected, and artwork.
CRISTO REDENTOR The definitive feature of Rio De Janeiro’s landscape, this Art Deco statue of Jesus Christ was created by Polish-French sculptor Paul Landowski and built by Brazilian engineer Heitor da Silva Costa in collaboration with French engineer Albert Caquot. Romanian sculptor Gheorghe Leonida fashioned the face. Touristy, yes, but a trek up Corcovado mountain is a must-visit for first-timers in Rio.
CASA FIRJAN An incredible Beaux-Arts villa from 1910 built by the French architect Joseph Gire, who also designed the Copacabana Palace Hotel.
INSTITUTO MOREIRA SALLES Once home to Walter Moreira Salles, a Brazilian banking heir, former ambassador to the United States, and prolific photo collector- the historic site contains only a portion of Salles’s 900,000 images and books. The lush landscaping of the institute alone is worth a visit.
ILHA FISCAL Completed in 1889 by engineer Adolfo del Vecchio, Ilha Fiscal is a neo-Gothic, green palace on Guanabara Bay. Originally built to house port operations, the building is now home to a museum of cultural history overseen by the Brazilian navy.
IGREJA DE NOSSA SENHORA DA PENHA A Catholic church built atop a cliff in 1728, Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Penha offers some of the best views of Rio. If you are after a workout, climbing 382 steps is required to get to the top (or you can take a free tram).
CASA DE CANOAS Oscar Niemeyer designed Casa das Canoas as a private home for his family from 1951-1965. It features plenty of his signature curved lines and glass walls.
CATEDRAL METROPOLITANA DE SÃO SEBASTIÃO Finished in 1979, the Catedral Metropolitana de São Sebastiäo is the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese in Rio. A modern interpretation of Mayan pyramids designed by Edgar Fonseca, it features four rectangular stained-glass windows that soar 210 feet from floor to ceiling. A sight to be seen!
CARIOCA AQUEDUCT Near the New Cathedral, the impressive Aqueduct was built to carry fresh water from the Carioca River to the city. Inaugurated in 1750, the aqueduct was deactivated by the end of the 19th century, and though it no longer carries water, it now serves as the Santa Teresa Tramway.
ARPOADOR Our preferred place to surf or catch sunrise and sunset in between Ipanema and Copacabana Beach. Prainha Beach between Recreio dos Bandeirantes and Grumari is another great option.
ESCADARIA SELARON Dodge tourists and walk up and down these famous brightly colored steps by Chilean-born artist Jorge Selarón who claimed it was his “tribute to the Brazilian people."
BIBLIOTECA NACIONAL The largest library in Latin America (and the seventh-largest in the world). This is one of our favorite places to escape into in Rio- the ornate interiors rival those of the city’s opulent homes and hotels.
SHOP
GRANADO You can't miss a visit to the traditional “Carioca” perfumery, Granado, founded in 1870 by José Antonio Coxito, and visited by Emperor Pedro II.
OSKLEN Designer Oskar Metsavaht founded the Brazilian fashion brand along with OM.Art Studio. He also serves as a UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador and Honorary Consul of the Republic of Estonia in Rio de Janeiro. Recently, the multi-hyphenate designer added Hotelier to his resume with the opening of the stylish Janeiro Hotel in Leblon.
SCHUTZ A contemporary Brazilian shoe brand with global locations.
ANDREA MARQUES This Brazilian label's flair for ultra-feminine, sleek, sophisticated design includes shapes crafted from flowing fabrics and sensual materials. A palette of vibrant hues punctuated with bold prints and intricate detailing lends the finishing touch to this elegant collection.
ADRIANA DEGREAS São Paulo-based designer Adriana Degreas launched her eponymous beachwear label in 2001, reinterpreting vintage codes to create an aesthetic that evokes modern femininity and grace. True to the label’s South American roots, the collections draw on the founder’s Brazilian heritage with graphic patterns in vibrant hues, while tortoiseshell buckles and beads bringing a free-spirited, retro mood to shimmering lamé and ruched textures. Expect beautifully cut swimwear and elegant cover-ups in vivid colors and playful prints that echo the energetic atmosphere of Rio’s beaches.
LENNY NIEMEYER No stranger to design, she married Oscar Niemeyer’s nephew, Lenny Niemeyer creates luxury beachwear & swimwear, which hug a woman's curves in all the right places.
FARM RIO You can now step into a Farm Rio boutique in Soho in Manhattan, but the brand was originally born here in Rio.
SPA
SPA AT THE FASANO HOTEL After a day spent hiking or surfing or a late night of dancing, we recommend the hot stone treatment with products by Vichy.
DAY & WEEKEND TRIPS
BÚZIOS Armação dos Búzios is a popular Brazilian resort destination to the east of Rio de Janeiro, known for surfing and water sports. The cobbled Rua das Pedras is the center of dining and nightlife.
PARATY Paraty is a small colonial town on Brazil's Costa Verde between Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo with cobblestone streets and 17th-18th-century buildings dating to its time as a port city during the Brazilian Gold Rush.
INHOTIM The Inhotim Museum is home to one of the largest foundations of contemporary art in Brazil and one of the largest outdoor art centers in Latin America. It was founded by the former mining magnate Bernardo Paz in 2004 to house his personal art collection.
TRANCOSO Likened to Tulum, this tranquil beach town is 2 1/2 hours from Rio. Once a small fishing village, the town is now known for its beaches and eco-friendly appeal.
Text: Veronica H. Speck Photo: Slim Aarons, © Getty Images