San Francisco
Dolly Fritz by Slim Aarons, Palace of Fine Arts
From hippies in Haight Ashbury to tech startups in Silicon Valley to Billionaire’s Row in Pacific Heights— the scenic city of San Francisco and the surrounding Bay Area truly has something for everyone.
STAY
FAIRMONT Our perennial favorite hotel when visiting San Francisco, and quite possibly the most popular wedding venue in all of the city. The massive hotel sits at the top of Nob Hill and is home to an elegant restaurant, an afternoon tea service, and honeybee hives in the herb garden. However, our favorite part is the wonderfully kitschy Tonga Room and Hurricane Bar. A Tiki bar complete with a lagoon, live band, and a dance floor is the last thing you'd expect to see inside a Fairmont, yet we are so glad it exists.
FOUR SEASONS This elegant and airy space right in the middle of downtown San Francisco is ideally situated for walking around the heart of the city. The Yerba Buena Gardens are nearby and there is a stunning lap pool inside the hotel for when you need a break from sightseeing (there's also an Equinox gym).
ST. REGIS The hotel is steps from some of the city’s most notable sights (SFMOMA is right next door, so is the Jewish Contemporary Museum and Union Square). Plus, there's an onsite Remède spa.
RITZ CARLTON The Nob Hill location is the best part of this luxury hotel. Fisherman's Wharf, Union Square, and the Ferry Building are all within walking distance, and Chinatown is a block away.
THE SF PROPER The Mid Market district hotel boasts whimsical interiors by Kelly Wearstler, three dining destinations, stunning rooftop views.
1 HOTEL Situated across from The Ferry Building, the former Hotel Vitale will be reopened as a 1 Hotel in 2021. Stay tuned!
HOTEL ZETTA As part of the Viceroy Hotel Group, this boutique hotel in SoMA has the right amount of scene.
THE BUCHANAN An off-the-beaten-path Japantown location near some of Fillmore Street's best shopping and food. A Kimpton property with chic, understated décor and some of the most comfortable guest rooms in the city.
PALIHOTEL A part of the LA chain, this minimalist urban loft hotel is nestled right by heart-of-the-action Union Square with white brick walls, low-to-the-ground beds with warm striped throws, stylish mid-century-style chairs, and copper light fixtures. Fisher Loft restaurant on the second floor is open from breakfast to dinner.
THE BATTERY A Ken Fulk-designed private social club and hotel with14 sprawling rooms, several bars, a restaurant, and spa. Michael Birch and Xochi Torres, a couple of tech founders who came up with the concept, wish to promote diversity and community via strategic membership approvals.
THE CLIFT ROYAL SONESTA HOTEL This gem is over 100 years old, but the Philippe Starcke renovations are thoroughly modern. In the ornate lobby you'll find furniture pieces by Ray and Charles Eames and Salvador Dali. Downstairs, the plush Redwood Room is perfect for drinks and light bites.
DINE | DRINK
ATELIER CRENN Dominique Crenn’s three-Michelin-starred restaurant— breaking records as the first female chef in the US to receive three Michelin Stars.
NOPA Hands down the best burger in SF, and it is one of the few restaurants/bars open late!
SLANTED DOOR The Ferry Building location is closed, but the San Ramon location of this Vietnamese restaurant is open. The emphasis is on fresh and organic ingredients in a minimalist environment. There are also to-go options at Out the Door counter and a few sister restaurants including Out The Door on Bush Street.
HOG ISLAND OYSTER CO This Ferry Building mainstay draws a consistently big crowd for its oysters. There are three different variations of grilled oysters in addition to an oyster po’ boy that actually rivals the original.
SWAN OYSTER DEPOT This family-owned business has been open for almost a century, serving up fresh oysters, clams, crab, and a very famous clam chowder. Go for the Dungeness Crab Louie and the incredibly fresh oysters, which you order at the counter, preferably with a crisp Sauvignon Blanc.
BI-RITE MARKET & CREAMERY A local, organic and sustainable market with a seasonal deli with a changing menu. For a special treat, visit Bi-Rite’s creamery across the street serving local, organic ice cream. There's also a location on Divisadero Street.
BLUE BOTTLE COFFEE There are now ten locations strong in the bay area, with cafés in the Ferry Building, Hayes Valley, Heath Ceramics, Market Square, Mint Plaza, and on Sansome. There are two locations in Oakland, on Broadway and Webster St. The SFMOMA rooftop location is home to Chef Caitlin Freeman’s modern art desserts. Think: a loaf cake made to look like a Mondrian painting and cookies inspired by Richard Serra’s sculptures.
TARTINE BAKERY Get up early to beat the line waiting for a buttery, cinnamon-scented morning bun. Liz Prueitt and Chad Robertson’s bread is worth waiting for. Order the chocolate chip cookies to go!
STATE BIRD PROVISIONS Chef Stuart Brioza and his wife/partner Nicole Krasinski opened this dim-sum-focused restaurant back in 2012, which quickly became loved for its carts of gourmet dumplings and savory pancakes and a separate menu where you'll find the quail dish that gave the restaurant its name. It has been awarded multiple James Beard awards and is as popular as ever.
ZUNI CAFE The menu at this classic French-slash-Italian restaurant changes daily but the delicious food remains a constant. The specialties are the whole roast chicken (made-to-order) and the bread salad.
CHEZ PANISSE Alice Waters began the organic, sustainably sourced "California cuisine" trend back in 1972. She even founded The Edible Schoolyard Project to empower children to make healthy, eco-friendly food decisions. Chez Panisse, her much-respected bistro in Berkeley, is an institution and known for its impeccably prepared, seasonal fare in an unassuming Arts and Crafts building, which is also home to a casual a la cart cafe.
COWGIRL CREAMERY Cowgirl Creamery is the brainchild of Sue Conley and Peggy Smith. The Ferry Building cheese shop stocks the best selection of local and international cheeses alongside their own varieties. Their triple cream Mt. Tam is their signature.
DANDELION CHOCOLATE This chocolate factory in the middle of San Francisco actually makes chocolate from scratch- relying on high-quality bean varieties and just a touch of sugar (every bar has 70% chocolate to 30% sugar). Buy freshly baked pastries and sample all the house varieties at the on-site café or request a guided tour of the factory.
MISSION CHINESE FOOD The original outpost (there's one in NYC) is a hole in the wall, but the food is outstanding. Order the Asian chicken salad!
CHINA LIVE A culinary and cultural destination in the heart of Chinatown with a restaurant, bar, & market.
SPQR SPQR focuses on traditional Italian dishes which include fresh, house-made pasta.
COTOGNA Cotogna serves up Northern Italian fare using the highest quality ingredients from nearby markets. Try to reserve the Chef's Table in front of the open kitchen!
MOURAD Michelin Star Moroccan food with a California twist & extensive wine options in a modern setting.
KOKKARI A classic, upscale Greek restaurant with traditional fare (order the salad). The hole-in-the-wall private dining room here feels like a secluded wine cellar— cozy and perfect for smaller groups.
COI Minimalist foodie mecca using local ingredients in avant-garde Californian-French tasting menus.
MISTER JIUS World-class Chinese food in the heart of San Francisco's Chinatown by Chef Brandon Jew who takes a modern approach to traditional Chinese food, which earned him a Michelin star in his first year.
SONS & DAUGHTERS An intimate, 28-seat restaurant with an open kitchen and tasting menu featuring locally grown ingredients (much of whicht comes from the restaurant's Santa Cruz farm) prepared in unexpected ways. The wine program is just as impressive as the food.
HUMPHREY SLOCOMBE Try a scoop of their Blue Bottle Vietnamese coffee ice cream!
LAI HONG LOUNGE An authentic spot for delicious dim-sum.
MAMA’S Wait in line for some classic breakfast offerings at this cozy American restaurant.
LA TAQUERIA The best burritos in San Francisco!
ART | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
SF MOMA With more exhibition space than even New York’s Museum of Modern Art, SF MoMA includes a generous loan from collectors Doris and Donald Fisher, whose collection comprises a survey of contemporary American art that starts in the 1980s and continues to today—visitors can expect to see Chuck Close, Andy Warhol, and Ellsworth Kelly well represented, plus a strong showing of German art from that timeframe. There are also plenty of other must-sees, including an expansive outdoor living wall, a room full of Clyfford Still behemoths, and Richard Serra sculptures.
DE YOUNG MUSEUM The de Young Museum has a significant collection of Asian Art and celebrated holdings in sculpture, painting, and works on paper. The new Herzog & de Meuron-designed building and corresponding landscaping have made it into one of the most significant architectural destinations in the country. Even if you don't have time to stroll through the exhibitions, it's worth a trip to walk through their gorgeous grounds in Golden Gate Park. Don’t miss James Turrell’s “Three Gems” Skyscape in the park behind the museum!
MISSION DOLORES Mission Dolores is the city's oldest standing building, and it is a gentle but firm reminder of San Francisco's long and fascinating history. Built in 1776, the mission has a simple exterior but a more opulent space for quiet prayer inside; a visit will feel like stepping into tiny old European churches, but with a distinctly California sensibility.
BOTANICAL GARDEN When you visit the De Young Museum in Golden Gate Park, it's worth a stop at San Francisco's Botanical Gardens. They have a beautiful area featuring native California plants, but you can also find a significant Magnolia collection, an Andean cloud forest, and a succulent garden.
THE PALACE OF FINE ARTS The Palace of Fine Arts in the Marina District of San Francisco, California is a monumental structure originally constructed for the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition in order to exhibit works of art. Completely rebuilt from 1964 to 1974, it is the only structure from the Exposition that survives on site. Today it is home to a theatre.
CRISSY FIELD A former U.S. Army airfield, it is now part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. Historically part of the Presidio of San Francisco, Crissy Field closed as an airfield after 1974. It is now a scenic spot for surfers and picnic-goers.
LANDS END LOOKOUT Lands End is a scenic lookout within the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. Numerous hiking trails follow the former railbeds of the Ferries and Cliff House Railway down to the shore. Additionally, Lands End contains the ruins of the Sutro Baths, and numerous shipwrecks, which are visible at low tides from the Coastal Trail and Mile Rock.
GOLDEN GATE PARK Golden Gate Park is a large urban park containing The Conservatory of Flowers, California Academy of Sciences, The de Young Museum, Japanese Tea Garden, SF Botanical Garden, Stow Lake and Strawberry Hill, Spreckles Lake and the Model Yacht Facility, The Dutch and Murphy Windmills, and the Beach Chalet.
PRESIDIO PARK The Presidio is home to one of the nation's finest collections of fortifications, landscapes, buildings, structures and artifacts related to military history. It also embraces the oldest national cemetery on the West Coast, the final resting place of many Medal of Honor awardees.
ALCATRAZ ISLAND Alcatraz Island is located in San Francisco Bay with a lighthouse, a military fortification, a military prison, and a federal prison, which you can tour.
LOMBARD STREET Lombard Street is an east-west street in San Francisco, California that is famous for a steep, one-block section with eight hairpin turns. Stretching from The Presidio east to The Embarcadero, most of the street's western segment is a major thoroughfare designated as part of U.S. Route 101.
COIT TOWER Coit Tower is a 210-foot tower in the Telegraph Hill neighborhood offering panoramic views over the city and the bay. The tower, in the city's Pioneer Park, was built between 1932 and 1933 upon Lillie Hitchcock Coit's bequest to beautify the city of San Francisco.
YERBA BUENA CENTER FOR THE ARTS Yerba Buena Center for the Arts is a multi-disciplinary contemporary arts center in Yerba Buena Gardens featuring visual art, performance, and film/video that celebrates local, national, and international artists and the Bay Area's diverse communities.
THE PAINTED LADIES One of the most photographed locations in San Francisco, Alamo Square's famous "postcard row" at Hayes and Steiner Streets features a row of Victorian and Edwardian houses painted in pastel colors.
SHOP
THE FUTURE PERFECT The Pacific Heights location of the NY and LA design gallery is located in a multi-level space with a garden. Roll & Hill's geometric lighting fixtures and gemstone-hued Arflex seating is on display as well as seasonal exhibitions.
HEATH CERAMICS A true mid-century American icon, Heath has been producing beautiful modern and minimal tableware and tiles since 1948. In fact, it's part of the permanent collection in New York's MoMA—and graces many a table across the Los Angeles restaurant scape. The store, like the products, is modern and minimal, with wooden shelves, concrete floors and a lot of space to browse. Besides the Heath line, they've selected a handful of designers to showcase. There are multiple locations in the SF area, including an outpost in the Ferry Building and a factory store in Sausalito.
FERRY BUILDING This gorgeous building right on the Embarcadero houses some of San Francisco's most notable food merchants including Hog Island Oyster Company, Cowgirl Creamery's Artisan Cheese Shop, and Blue Bottle Coffee. There is also an outdoor farmers market on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays.
HERO SHOP The brainchild of former Vogue editor Emily Holt. It’s certainly the city’s coolest concept store, carrying designers like Rosie Assoulin, Creatures of the Wind, and Of Rare Origin.
VEER & WANDER An apothecary and salon focused on a simple approach to beauty through exceptional craftsmanship.
LE POINT A small concept store based in San Francisco stocking emerging and contemporary brands from the US and Europe.
DAY TRIPS
SAUSALITO Stay at Cavallo Point nestled at the foot of the Golden Gate bridge. Fort Baker is spread out over Sausalito. This 142-room lodge, healing arts center, and spa, are spread out over a cluster of Colonial buildings that meet and exceed all of LEED's sustainability requirements. Another option is The Inn Above Tide— the ferry out of the San Francisco docks is right at the entrance to this 31-room Sausalito inn. The clean, modern rooms with working fireplaces and glass decks are designed with floor-to-ceiling windows to make the most of the panoramic bay views. Dine at Fish, a sustainable seafood restaurant with food sourced by local fishermen with the protection of wild fish populations in mind. There's even an on-site fish market for at-home cooks. Another option is Sushi Ran complete with an almost all-wood interior, sushi bar with fresh fish delivered daily by local fishermen or shipped in from Tokyo’s Tsukiji market. Shop at the flagship Heath Ceramics.
POINT REYES Enjoy oysters at sunset on the dock of Nick’s Cove in Marin County.
MUIR WOODS Muir Woods National Monument is part of California’s Golden Gate National Recreation Area, north of San Francisco— known for its towering old-growth redwood trees.
HALF-MOON BAY A scenic 45-minute drive south of San Francisco lands you in Half Moon Bay. Enjoy a round of golf at the Half Moon Bay Golf Links followed by drinks at sunset from the vast oceanfront terrace of The Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay.
Photo: Slim Aarons © Getty Images Text: Veronica H. Speck