Santa Fe
Santa Fe, New Mexico’s capital, sits in the Sangre de Cristo foothills. It’s renowned for its Pueblo-style architecture and art scene, including the Georgia O’Keefe museum. Founded as a Spanish colony in 1610, it has at its heart the traditional Plaza. The surrounding historic district’s crooked streets wind past adobe landmarks including the Palace of the Governors.
STAY
BISHOP’S LODGE Set on 450 acres bordering the Santa Fe National Forest, this upscale spa resort by Auberge Resorts features individually decorated rooms and suites with Santa Fe-style decor, kiva fireplaces, and balconies. The spa is known for its Native American-inspired treatments. Amenities include tennis courts, a fitness center, an outdoor pool, and a contemporary American restaurant. 1297 Bishops Lodge Rd; aubergeresorts.com/bishopslodge
FOUR SEASONS RESORT RANCHO ENCANTADO Sprawled across fifty-seven acres in the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo mountains, overlooking the Rio Grande River Valley, this modern, Southwest-inspired property features a fine-dining restaurant with contemporary American cuisine inspired by New Mexico, plus a bar with an outdoor terrace. Other amenities include an outdoor pool, a hot tub, a spa, and a fitness center. 198 NM-592; fourseasons.com/santafe
ROSEWOOD INN OF THE ANASAZI Located in the heart of the Plaza, this boutique hotel by Rosewood is located in a renovated penitentiary. Textiles, paintings, carvings, and baskets handmade by local Native American talent fill this intimate space, where adobe walls, rich wood floors, and kiva fireplaces are found in every room. 113 Washington Ave; rosewoodhotels.com/en/inn-of-the-anasazi-santa-fe
INN OF THE FIVE GRACES The well-traveled owners, Ira and Sylvia Seret, named the hotel after the Tibetan philosophy that we are all lucky to have five senses (graces) with which to experience the world: sight, sound, touch, smell, and taste. Each suite is ornamented with tile mosaics and Afghan and Tibetan artifacts. The hotel is next to the oldest house and oldest church in America. 150 E De Vargas St; fivegraces.com
ST. FRANCIS HOTEL Named for the city's patron saint, and holding the all-important distinction of being Santa Fe's oldest hotel, the St. Francis is one of Santa Fe's many historic landmarks. The design here takes great pains to honor the style of early Franciscan missionary settlers, with features like an antique baptismal font in the lobby, candles along the walkways, and iron crosses hung in the stairwells. 210 Don Gaspar Ave; hotelstfrancis.com
LA POSADA One of several allegedly haunted hotels in Santa Fe. The resort and spa, rooted in 1880 and located mere blocks from The Plaza, has lots of options — including casita-style two-bedroom suites that overlook the gardens — and a cozy, multi-room library bar. 330 E Palace Ave; marriott.com/en-us/hotels/saflc-la-posada-de-santa-fe
EL REY COURT Housed in a motel that was first established in 1936, the property combines retro charm with modern amenities. The hotel bar, La Reina, serves up an impressive selection of mezcal and tequila, attracting a local crowd. The sizable outdoor pool is just the thing after a hike, and Thursday through Sunday, sourdough pizza is served up by Tender Fire Kitchen. 1862 Cerrillos Rd; elreycourt.com
LORETTO INN The Inn & Spa at Loretto is located in the heart of the Plaza in a huge adobe building, complete with a bar, restaurant and shops. 211 Old Santa Fe Trail; hotelloretto.com
EAT
DOLINA Chef and Owner Annamaria Brezna was born in Slovakia and serves up Eastern European specialties for breakfast and lunch at this cozy cafe and restaurant. 402 N Guadalupe St, dolinasantafe.com
THE SHED Housed in the original 1692 adobe home and courtyard of the Spanish Royal Family. The prince bought eighteen rooms built around three patios, and established his family here. Since 1953, The Shed has been owned by the same family, and their New Mexican recipes haven’t wavered. 113 1/2 E Palace Ave; sfshed.com
TUNE UP A husband and wife run snug, fuschia-walled neighborhood restaurant with a menu that includes El Salvadorian Pupusas, New Mexican Green Chile Stew, lamb tacos, chile relleno, enchiladas, and caesar salad. The counter holds jars of agua frescas and Mexican wedding cookies. 1115 Hickox St; tuneupsantafe.com
IZANAMI The izakaya restaurant at Ten Thousand Waves Spa has panoramic windows, tatami rooms, lanterns, and a waterfall entryway. The menu includes sake braised shimeji mushrooms, Wagyu steak, and housemade tofu with garlic and chive. The Michelin-Starred restaurant uses ingredients that can only be sourced locally. 21 Ten Thousand Waves Way; tenthousandwaves.com
JOSEPH’S Elevated New American fare is served in a warm setting with a refined farmhouse feel and eclectic art. Try the glazed duck confit and Marlin sashimi. 428 Agua Fria St; josephsofsantafe.com
VINAIGRETTE All ingredients are grown on its farm just outside of Santa Fe, which can be seen in the incredible flavors of the lettuces and vegetables. Don’t miss the kale caesar salad with Marcona almonds and parmesan. 709 Don Cubero Alley; vinaigretteonline.com
ICONIK The go-to coffee spot in Santa Fe with a number of vegan and gluten-free options— try the avocado toast, which arrives with a hint of spice and topped with tomatoes. iconikcoffee.com
MANOLLA A female-founded health cafe offering up a robust smoothie selection along with casual vegetarian and vegan fare. Eat on the patio or take your meal to-go for a picnic lunch. Pick up a bag of their homemade granola to take home with you. 223 Canyon Rd; manollacafe.com
CAFE PASQUAL'S
This iconic corner cafe serves up New Mexican cuisine made from local and organic ingredients in a cozy, art-filled environment. At dinner, start with plantain chips and a roasted peach salad then go for Napo’s Pupusa. Breakfast highlights include griddled polenta with the area’s famous red chile, plus a breakfast burrito. 121 Don Gaspar Ave; pasquals.com
SHAKE FOUNDATION Famous for its green chile cheeseburger and shakes made from local Taos Cow ice cream with flavors that change daily, ranging from standard vanilla and chocolate to lavender and salted caramel. 631 Cerrillos Rd; shakefoundation.com
DOWNTOWN SUBSCRIPTION A local coffee and pastry shop. 376 Garcia St
KAKAWA CHOCOLATE HOUSE ANew Mexican chocolate shop that specializes in drinking chocolate. kakawachocolates.com
MODERN GENERAL Modern General is a hybrid of a general store, juice bar, and bakery in one. The walls of the airy, barn-like space are filled with items for the home (tools, books, kitchen gadgets, office supplies), garden (overalls, seeds, tools), and foodstuffs like gourmet mustards, staples like sugar and flour, and homemade pies that are famous in the neighborhood. In the back, there's a juice bar with plenty of healthy snacks and lunch items, all sourced from Wade's farm. 637 Cerrillos Rd; moderngeneralfeedandseed.com
OHORI COFFEE Family-owned Ohori's has been in operation since the original founder Susan Ohori (who learned to roast beans from Alfred Peet of Peet's Coffee) first claimed the space in 1984. The owners here are passionate about coffee, meticulously sourcing beans and roasting them in Santa Fe. ohoriscoffee.com
THE TEAHOUSE This neighborhood spot at the end of Canyon Road is a favorite for their selection of teas, which line the walls of the small entry. 821 Canyon Rd; teahousesantafe.com
TIA SOPHIA’S A downtown diner-style spot serving classic New Mexican fare. Their breakfast burrito—a hearty combination of bacon and hash browns wrapped in a soft flour tortilla and topped with a poached egg, chiles, and melted cheese—is the order here. tiasophias.com
ELOISA Named after Chef Sedlar’s grandmother, who was Georgia O’Keeffe’s personal chef for 15 years, the menu is full of traditional favorites including Frito pie, chile rellenos, calabacitas, and carne adovada. The space in the Drury Plaza Hotel is bright with gray and white touches of exposed brick, hardwood floors, and marble. eloisasantafe.com
RADISH & RYE The bar at this aptly named New American restaurant is curated by mixologist/sommelier Quinn Mark Stephenson, and offers more than 50 varieties of bourbon. Chef David Gaspar de Alba’s menu of fresh, seasonal fare, inspired by finds from the local farmers market, is an equally powerful draw. Try the corn chowder with bone marrow and green chili, smoked black ribs, and steak tartare with alabria chili, lime oil, and quail yoke. 505 Cerrillos Rd; radishandrye.com
COYOTE CAFE & CANTINA Head to the rooftop cantina for their famous margaritas, live music, and sunset views. 132 W Water St; coyotecafe.com
CLAFOUTIS A charming French bakery and café right outside downtown has a breakfast menu that's blessedly pared down to a few egg dishes, crêpes, and waffles. 132 W Water S; clafoutis.biz
GERONIMO Located on a quiet section of Canyon Road with a sophisticated Southwester-style dining room, serving traditional dishes like elk tenderloin and ahi tuna. 724 Canyon Rd; geronimorestaurant.com
PAPER DOSA Chef Paulraj Karuppasamy and his wife Nellie Tischler serve up Indian food with a twist including a white truffle masala dosa and a traditional chicken curry. 551 W Cordova Rd; paper-dosa.com
SWEETWATER HARVEST KITCHEN Soma Franks and Fiona Wong opened Sweetwater in 2012, in a warm, high-ceilinged, barn-like building; here, Edison bulbs are suspended from the ceiling, and diners gather around a long community table with a planter in the center. Like the warm modernism of the space, their menu offers creative takes on veggie-based comfort foods (like eggs baked in a scalloped, cross-wise slice of acorn squash, or rainbow paleo plates with every color represented). 1512 Pacheco St Bldg B; sweetwatersf.com
TENDER FIRE The restaurant at El Rey Court, serving up sourdough pizza. 1862 Cerrillos Rd; tenderfirekitchen.com
THE COMPOUND New American fine dining with Southwestern influences in a cozy adobe home setting. 653 Canyon Rd; compoundrestaurant.com
LA CHOZA A casual eatery with colorful decor serving tacos, burritos, and more with a separate vegetarian menu. 905 Alarid St; lachozasf.com
PALOMA Upmarket Mexican cuisine and creative cocktails are showcased in a rustic-chic space with an intimate bar. 401 S Guadalupe St; palomasantafe.com/
DRINK
SECRETO The bar at the St. Francis Hotel. Order the Smoked Sage Margarita. 210 Don Gaspar Ave; hotelstfrancis.com
THE DRAGON ROOM Located at the Pink Adobe, The Dragon Room is an old-school Santa Fe favorite with a fireplace and fire pit, colorful walls, and bizarre, dragon-themed art. 406 Old Santa Fe Trail, thepinkadobe.com/dragonroom
SANTA FE SPIRITS A distillery in Santa Fe that has a tasting room on the East Side, where they fold their handmade liquors into perfectly-made signature drinks from martinis to manhattans. santafespirits.com
SKY COFFEE A menu of classic coffee shop beverages, baked goods, and cafe fare in a modern, industrial setting. 1609a Alcaldesa St; skysantafe.com
ARTS | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
THE GEORGIA O'KEEFE MUSEUM The most extensive and cohesive collection of O’Keeffe’s work anywhere in the world. Works from each of her series — from the New York cityscapes to the paintings of mountains, flowers, and bones are on view. 217 Johnson St; okeeffemuseum.org
THE GEORGIA O’KEEFE HOME & STUDIO Georgia O’Keeffe first visited the village of Abiquiú in 1931, and nearly two decades later made it her permanent home. Located 60 miles northwest of Santa Fe, the home is open to the public for guided tours seasonally with advance reservations. okeeffemuseum.org
GHOST RANCH An hour outside of Santa Fe where Georgia O’Keeffe once had a home and studio. A trail ride by reservation only is the only way to catch a glimpse of the artist’s former residence. ghostranch.org
SITE SANTA FE A contemporary art museum, which has shown artists including Marina Abramović, Louise Bourgeois, Ed Ruscha, Bruce Nauman, and Roni Horn. The first thing you’ll notice about SITE is its façade: Designed by Los Angeles-based architect Greg Lynn, the structure’s exterior is a work of art in and of itself. 1606 Paseo de Peralta; sitesantafe.org
SANTA FE FARMER'S MARKET The Santa Fe Farmers Market takes place at the Railyard on Saturday and Tuesday mornings, and offers locally raised, free-range meats and eggs, organic bread, berries, shishito peppers and greens, and soaps made of goat milk and lavender. 1607 Paseo de Peralta, Suite A; santafefarmersmarket.com
SANTUARIO DE CHIMAYO Built in 1984, the Chimayo Sanctuary has a dirt floor and holy well that the locals believe heals everything from heartbreak to cancer. You can buy small vessels of it in the gift shop. 15 Santuario Dr; holychimayo.us
THE SANTA FE INDIAN MARKET The Santa Fe Indian Market is the mecca for art from indigenous artists across several tribes in North America. Buy one-of-a-kind pottery, jewelry, art, and textiles. swaia.org
MEOW WOLF Meow Wolf is a gallery with interactive art installations comprised of different mediums such as video, sculpture, painting, and photography. The complex also doubles as a performance space and an education center for children. 1352 Rufina Circle; meowwolf.com
ASPEN SANTA FE BALLET As the name suggests, Aspen Santa Fe Ballet (ASFB) has two home cities, a hybrid business model that allows two cities that might not be able to support a full ballet company on their own to experience high-quality contemporary ballet for half the year. 550 St Michaels Dr; aspensantafeballet.com
CANYON ROAD GALLERIES Walking along this half-mile stretch of galleries in the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains is the surest way to take in as much of Santa Fe’s local art scene as possible. Native American art, historical and contemporary Latino art, and international folk art all coexist as part of an array of more than a hundred shops showcasing paintings, sculptures, hand-made jewelry, and pottery. visitcanyonroad.com
SANTA FE OPERA From this opera company’s stunning open-air theater, you can see the Jemez Mountains to the west, the Sangre de Cristo Mountains to the east, and rolling hills to the south. 301 Opera Dr; santafeopera.org
JEAN COCTEAU CINEMA Local celebrity American author George R. R. Martin purchased this 1970s-style movie theater a few years ago, and the single-screen plays a wonderful selection of avant-garde and indie films. 418 Montezuma Ave; jeancocteaucinema.com
LORETTO CHAPEL Legend has it that when the Loretto Chapel was first built, the choir above the main space could only be accessed by a rickety ladder, because the tiny church was so tight on space. In hopes of a better solution, the Sisters of the Chapel prayed to St. Joseph, the patron saint of carpenters—a few months later, an unnamed craftsman arrived and built a beautiful spiral staircase, only to leave without giving his name or asking for payment. Today, architects and mechanics consider the staircase to be a structural marvel, as it contains two full rotations with no central support. 207 Old Santa Fe Trail; lorettochapel.com
SHOP
VISVIM A Japanese menswear brand founded by Hiroki Nakamura in Ura-Harajuku in 2001. 222 Shelby St; visvim.tv
SANTA FE VINTAGE A warehouse space, open by appointment only, which sits on the outskirts of town, and holds an incredible collection of vintage denim, t-shirts, and swathes of indigo-dyed fabric, Western wear, and outerwear. santafevintage.com
SANTA FE VINTAGE OUTPOST What used to be an appointment-only showroom on the outskirts of town is now a large shop just blocks away from the Plaza. Scott Corey’s carefully curated shop, filled with vintage American flannels, jean jackets, and leather goods. You’ll also find a selection of vintage jewelry in addition to pieces by the Outpost’s co-owner, designer Julienne Barth. 202 E Palace Ave; santafevintageoutpost.store
DOUBLE TAKE A three-wing store with one wing for consignment “contemporary” clothing, one for Western wear, and one for designer and vintage pieces, such as furs, beaded bags, and well-priced, eccentric clothing from the last few decades. 320 Aztec St; santafedoubletake.com
DOODLET'S A retro toy story and gift shop selling a wide selection of trinkets. 120 Don Gaspar Ave; doodlets.com
SHIPROCK Located above the Plaza, showcasing an impressive selection of woven textiles, Zuni Fetishes, Native American pottery, and vintage sterling silver and turquoise jewelry. Shiprock Gallery was inspired by the New Mexican town of the same name, which is located on the Navajo reservation where founder and fifth-generation art dealer Jed Foutz was raised. Foutz specializes in the work of Native American artists, with cases and cases of turquoise jewelry and a much-photographed "rug room" with a huge selection of original weavings (in addition to historic pieces, he shows new exhibitions of work by living artists, which often include painting, photography, and sculpture). 53 Old Santa Fe Trail; shiprocksantafe.com
KESHI Keshi is lined with glass cases of Zuni Fetishes — small, carved stone animals and figures that are an integral part of the Zuni Pueblo. Each animal, carved from a semi-precious stone, represents a different virtue or symbol of intention — protection, courage, love, motivation, etc. The store sources their fetishes directly from the Zuni people. 227 Don Gaspar Ave; keshi.com
SERET AND SONS Founder Ira Seret spent more than fifteen years living in Afghanistan, buying and designing for everyone from Oscar de la Renta to Bloomingdales, and amassing a huge collection of stunning rugs and textiles. The store he runs with his wife is filled with the kinds of upholstered furniture, carpets, and home accessories you won't find anywhere else. Their most accessible showroom is really the Inn of Five Graces, which they decorated for the opening in 1996. 224 Galisteo St; seretandsons.org
FOLKLORE Former New Yorker Kelly Dye moved to Santa Fe and opened Folklore, a storefront that conveys her passion for sustainably-minded design. In addition to natural beauty products, Folklore carries home goods, clothing, and jewelry. 370 Garcia St; shop-folklore.com
COLLECTED WORKS BOOKSTORE A cozy bookstore with a fireplace, plenty of seating, poetry readings, and a well-stocked children’s section. 202 Galisteo St; collectedworksbookstore.com
WHISKEY AND CLAY Whiskey & Clay founder Kimmy Rohrs began to “throw down on the wheel” after a breakup. That first pottery class ultimately inspired a successful pottery career, and a storefront in Santa Fe. Earthen tones meet must-touch textures in Rohrs’ plates, mugs, vases, and bowls. 1703 Lena St; whiskeyandclay.com
LUCCHESE Lucchese was started by a pair of Sicilian brothers who applied their Italian leather shoemaking training to cowboy boots in Texas back in the 1800s. They still make the best luxury cowboy boots on the market, with only two stores outside of Texas—in Santa Fe and Nashville. 57 Old Santa Fe Trail; lucchese.com
DESIGN WAREHOUSE Design Warehouse offers modern, mid-century, and Scandinavian designs. The showroom on Marcy Street has some great furniture, but it's also a worthy stop for gifts including a selection of books, kitchen tools, and office supplies. 130 Lincoln Ave; designwarehousesantafe.com
CORSINI BROTHERS Specializing in menswear, they carry a great mix of prim cashmere sweaters, tailored dinner jackets, and leather accessories like belts and shoes. 107 W San Francisco St.
THE GOOD STUFF CAFE VINYL A tiny shop with a well-curated selection of used books and records that can be purchased for a song. 401 W San Francisco St
THE RAVEN A large shop filled with new and pre-owned high-end furniture, lighting, garden decor and unique housewares. 1225 Cerrillos Rd; theravensantafe.com
SPIRIT A women’s clothing store downtown near the Plaza featuring local and international designers. 109 W San Francisco St
TIN-NEE-ANN TRADING CO The place for authentic Navajo jewelry. 923 Cerrillos Rd.
SPA
TEN THOUSAND WAVES SPA Perched on top of a hillside just ten minutes from downtown Santa Fe, this spa is one of the best places in the area to unwind. This tranquil oasis was opened in 1981 to introduce Japanese-style bathing to the city; today, a variety of massage, skincare, and spa treatments are on offer. The real draw here is the outdoor hot tubs, which capitalize on the simple, healing power of sitting in hot water while surrounded by nature. 21 Ten Thousand Waves Way; tenthousandwaves.com
OJO CALIENTE Archaeologists can confirm that people have been drawn to the waters at Ojo Caliente for thousands of years: the hot springs are surrounded by the ruins of structures and terraces built by ancient cultures. It's been an important gathering place for every culture that's inhabited these lands since, from the Native American ancestors of those ancient cultures to the Spaniards to the New Age hippies of the '70s. Now, the springs are surrounded by a fully developed resort and spa. 50 Los Banos Drive; ojosparesorts.com/spa
SPA AT LORETTO The spa at the Loretto Inn (next door to the Loretto chapel) offers facials and milk baths, couples massages, plus a room outfitted with a Vichy shower for water therapy. If you only have time for one treatment, get a pedicure in one of their profoundly comfortable zero-gravity chairs. 211 Old Santa Fe Trail; hotelloretto.com
DAY & WEEKEND TRIPS
TAOS SKI VALLEY Located in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains eighteen miles northeast of the town of Taos, the Taos Ski Valley is best known as a ski resort, though there's plenty to keep families busy here in the summer, too. In addition to skiing and snowboarding, you can opt for climbing, fishing, hiking, horseback riding, mountain biking, rafting, or llama trekking. (Yes, llama trekking.) You can also stop for a mid-day hot chocolate at the Phoenix Grill, grab a drink at the Martini Tree Bar, or order a meal made from produce handpicked from local Taos farms at Rhoda’s restaurant. While it's a great destination in its own right, Taos makes for a convenient day trip from Santa Fe.
Text: Veronica H. Speck