Sicily
Dining In Sicily, 1984, Slim Aarons, ©Getty Images
Sicily, the largest Mediterranean island, is just off the "toe" of Italy's "boot." Its rich history is reflected in sites like the Valley of the Temples, the well-preserved ruins of 7 monumental, Doric-style Greek temples, and in the Byzantine mosaics at the Cappella Palatina, a former royal chapel in capital city Palermo. On Sicily’s eastern edge is Mount Etna, one of Europe’s highest active volcanoes. Here is the VHS Ventures guide to Sicily, Italy.
STAY
ADLER SPA RESORT SICILIA The ADLER Spa Resort SICILIA lies on the sandy coast of the Agrigento province, surrounded by its own Garden of Eden and the green vegetation of the Torre Salsa nature reserve. Contrada Salsa, 92010 Siculiana AG, Italy; adler-resorts.com/en/adler-spa-resort-sicilia
SAN DOMENICO PALACE, FOUR SEASONS The setting of the second season of The White Lotus. While the historic building—originally a monastery, still visible through the original frescos preserved above rooms which have now been converted into lavish suites—has been a hotel since 1986, it reopened in 2021 as the Four Seasons’ new southern Italian jewel. With spectacular views across the bay and over to Mount Etna (best enjoyed by the infinity pool, Aperol spritz in hand), three restaurants, and a can’t-be-beat proximity to Taormina’s most popular shopping street, Corso Umberto, it blends Sicilian charm with the utmost luxury. Via S. Domenico, 5, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy; fourseasons.com/taormina
VILLA IGIEA Located in Palermo by the hotel group Rocco Forte—just far enough outside the city center to offer peace and quiet, but merely a 10-minute journey from Palermo’s breathtaking historical sites, Sicilian down-home cooking, and of course, the extraordinary architecture that blends epic Norman scale with Arabic flourishes. Via Belmonte, 43, 90142 Palermo PA, Italy; roccofortehotels.com/hotels-and-resorts/villa-igiea
MONACI DELLE TERRE NERE The spectacular Relais & Chateaux property situated in the heart of the Etna National Park, overlooking its volcanic slopes (the “terre nere” of the name translates as “black lands”). The rooms and villas scattered across its 60 acres of vineyards, olives groves, and rocky volcanic outcrop. Activities include botanical walks through the property’s fragrant herb gardens and endless fields of fruit trees, or more ambitious hikes across the dried lava slicks of Mount Etna. You can laze by the pool, with its sweeping views across the foothills of the volcano and out to the glittering expanse of the Ionian sea, take a morning yoga session, or arrange an in-room treatment. While the central building at Monaci is a striking 19th-century palazzo in a shade of dusty terracotta, each of the 27 rooms spread across the estate feels entirely individual, featuring everything from lava walls to a historic wine press to a cutting-edge floating bed. The real standout at Monaci is the world-class food and wine offering. As a member of the pioneering farm-to-fork Slow Food movement, the main restaurant, Locanda Nerello, is worth visiting even if you aren’t staying at the property, with the majority of produce being either sourced from the farm itself or local (and we mean local) suppliers, resulting in spectacularly fresh updates and riffs on Sicilian staples. Via Monaci, Via Pietralunga, sn, 95019 Zafferana Etnea CT, Italy; monacidelleterrenere.it
VILLA SANT’ANDREA A private villa converted by Belmond and overlooking the Bay of Mazzarò, with lush subtropical gardens first planted by its aristocratic owners in the 19th century and an atmospheric restaurant overlooking the water, the property recently opened Lido Villeggiatura: a family-friendly beach club accessible to both hotel and external guests for the day, complete with plush lounge beds shaded by picturesque blue-and-white umbrellas, private cabanas with butler service, and a beach bar where refreshing drinks and light bites can be savored throughout the day. A non-negotiable is the house-made granita served next to a warm brioche (order the almond or pistachio flavor), a classic Sicilian treat that’s the perfect late afternoon dessert. Via Nazionale, 137, 98039 Mare, ME, Italy; belmond.com/hotels/europe/italy/taormina/belmond-villa-sant-andrea
GRAND HOTEL TIMEO Sant Andrea’s sister hotel, also owned by Belmond, whose rich history as a gathering place for writers and intellectuals from D.H. Lawrence to Jean Cocteau to Truman Capote is matched only by its convenient location right next to the amphitheater and cable car. If time allows during your stay, book a treatment at the Dior Spa, Le Jardin Des Rêves, where appointments are offered in one of two private tree houses decorated in the brand’s Toile de Jouy wallpaper and nestled between the cypresses. Plan to arrive a little early to take in the beauty of the hotel’s lush six-acre gardens, with bougainvillea trellises spilling over the balconies and facades, and towering ferns and fragrant flora lining the gently sloped paths. Via Teatro Greco, 59, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy; belmond.com/hotels/europe/italy/taormina/belmond-grand-hotel-timeo
SEVEN ROOMS VILLADORATA Often described as the crown jewel of the Val di Noto, Noto was rebuilt after a catastrophic 1693 earthquake and has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 2002 For those keen to immerse themselves in its 18th-century splendor, there’s arguably no better place to stay than at luxury boutique hotel in the heart of the old town and tucked away in the private courtyard of Palazzo Nicolaci. Venture off to the countryside for a night at the hotel’s sister property, the eco-resort Country House Villadorata.Set on a former vineyard, the 23-acre hotel is surrounded by almond trees and fragrant citrus and olive groves, which guests can wander through before tucking into dinner at W Villadorata, the hotel’s slow food restaurant helmed by Michelin-starred chef Viviana Varese. Via Camillo Benso Conte di Cavour, 53, 96017 Noto SR, Italy; sevenrooms.villadorata.com
IL SAN CORRADO DI NOTO If an oasis is what you seek, you’ll find it a few miles further south at an ancient masseria transformed into a boutique resort in 2022 in refined, minimalist taste. A Relais & Châteux property, the hotel’s magic lies in its white-washed expansiveness, with eight sprawling pool villas and 26 suites offering an unrivaled sense of seclusion and serenity both from and in the natural landscape. A short shuttle ride to the hotel’s private beach club provides a welcome escape from the heat, though, for more instant relief, you can take a quick dip in one of the property’s two pools immediately upon check-in. Indulge in a fine dining experience by reserving a table at the on-site restaurant, Principe di Belludia (which includes the impressively-stocked wine cellar, Cantina). Or, keep things casual at Osteria Casa Pasta, where wood-fired vegetables and freshly caught fish are served poolside under the stars. Wake up a little earlier than usual to play an energizing game of tennis on its grass court, or ease into the day with an intimate yoga session held in the gazebo before exploring the neighboring seaside charm of Ortigia and Marzamemi. Contrada Belludia SP51, 96017 Noto SR, Italy; ilsancorradodinoto.com
CAPOFARO There are few places better to appreciate the Aeolian pace of life than at which boasts one of the most breathtaking settings in all of Sicily. Just a 10-minute drive from the port at Santa Marina Salina (a quietly glamorous destination for restaurants and boutique shopping in its own right), the Relais & Chateaux hotel is perched at the edge of a clifftop, with the main building housed in a historic lighthouse that still glows in the evening, and the rest of the property’s 27 rooms spread across a series of whitewashed outbuildings, lending it a similar feel to the picturesque villages that dot the nearby coastline but entirely private. The interiors carry a subdued chic, decorated with breezy linen in gray and white and wicker furniture; wandering around the property, it’s clear that the visitors it attracts are as stylish as the surroundings. Isola di Salina, Comune di, Via Faro, 3, 98050 Malfa ME, Italy; capofaro.it
THERASIA RESORT If it’s a slightly glitzier experience you’re seeking from your Aeolian vacation (nobody does a glamorous holiday like the Italians, after all), then make a beeline for the island of Vulcano. Once again situated on a jaw-dropping location spread across the edge of a cliff face—there are multiple swimming pools that have been built into its jutting edges, which lead all the way down to the sea if you want to take a dip there, too. Then, there are the hotel’s four restaurants to try, two of which are Michelin-starred: first, Il Cappero, where impossibly fresh, playfully realized seafood fishes are the star and with unparalleled views over to the neighboring islands of Lipari and Salina; and I Tenerumi, located up a winding pathway at the back of the estate surrounded by greenery, and where you can sample an ever-changing seasonal menu of inventive vegetarian and vegan dishes by chef Davide Guidara, who was awarded the Michelin award for best young chef this year. As the sun dips below the horizon and fades into an impossibly scenic Aeolian sunset, you couldn’t find a better backdrop if you tried. Isola di Vulcano, 98050 Vulcanello ME, Italy; therasiaresort.it
SANBARTOMOLEO CASA E PUTIA A guesthouse with the spirit of an artists’ residency and the design choreography of a committed aesthete. The owners pulled the plug on city life in Milan and mobilized their dreams of breathing new, contemporary life into historical buildings, while honoring local craft and traditional materials. Minimalist, modern rooms with concrete flooring and white-washed walls are layered with traditional mahogany furniture, wrought iron chandeliers, and elaborate lace bed toppers—a consummate marriage of classical Catholicism and modern restraint. A balcony lined in joyful Sicilian tiles is the front-row seat at breakfast for a knockout view of San Bartolomeo and the town’s comings and goings below. Even if you don’t stay here, pop into the owner’s antique store directly underneath where lace toppers, brass figurines, and costume jewelry recall Sicily’s golden age. Via Matarazzo 9, Vico Giavatto 1, Scicli, Ragusa; sanbartolomeocasaeputia.it
GRAND HOTEL ET DES PALMES Located in the heart of the action in Palermo with generously sized rooms with club chairs and marble baths right next door to the beautiful 19th-century Teatro Politeama, home to Sicily’s orchestra. Check in, drop your bags, then do as the Palermitani and hit the food market. Via Roma, 398, 90139 Palermo PA, Italy; grandhotel-et-des-palmes.com
VILLA TASCA A 16th-century home surrounded by 20 acres of lush gardens with villas available to rent. Viale Regione Siciliana Sud-Est, 399, 90129 Palermo - Italy; villatasca.com
BAGLIO DONNA FRANCA This family-run estate in the Marsala region includes a charming hotel, restaurant and winery and has a fabulous swimming pool with views to the Tyrrhenian Sea. Contrada Florio, 1, 91025 Marsala TP, Italy; donnafranca.it.
LA PLUMERIA A sweet bed and breakfast in the old centre of the seaside village Cefalù. Sunny rooms, a lovely courtyard for breakfast and it’s only a short stroll to the beach; Corso Ruggero, 185, 90015 Cefalù PA, Italy; laplumeriahotel.it
HOTEL RAVISI This boutique hotel is housed in a restored 19th-century whitewashed farmhouse in the village of Malfa on Salina, one of the Aeolian islands. lt features pretty terraced gardens, an infinity pool, wonderful cooking and magnificent views across to Stromboli island. Via Roma, 66, 98050 Malfa ME, Italy; hotelravesi.it.
CHARME HOTEL HENRY’S HOUSE This slightly eccentric but delightful family-run hotel is situated in a beautiful old palazzo right on the harbour at Ortigia, on Syracuse. The home-cooked breakfast is sensational. Via Castello Maniace, 68, 96100 Siracusa SR, Italy; hotelhenryshouse.com.
DIMORA DELLE BALZE An abandoned 19th-century castle just north of the baroque town of Noto is available to rent after a scrupulous nine-year restoration project. The estate’s masseria soul remains fully intact, its freckled grey walls and earthy, tiled rooms blending seamlessly into the surrounding prairie-like scrub and lush, rolling woodlands. Sun-dappled courtyards decorated with wrought iron day beds and large terra-cotta pots lead into pared-down pastel-hued bedrooms, more courtyards, and a light-filled dining room where local cheeses, meats, apricot pastries, and brioche spill across a farmhouse table for breakfast.
ZASH BOUTIQUE HOTEL AND SPA Wrapped in acres of labyrinthine citrus groves beneath looming Mount Etna, Zash Boutique Hotel & Spa was once the summer retreat for Catania’s nobility and now thrusts guests back to a time where nature called the shots, through a contemporary prism, as one of the best hotels in Sicily. Honoring its past life as a Palmento, the cool innards of the main house (a peachy, peeling vestige of grand Sicily) now pose as a smart, destination restaurant, below it, a dimly lit spa gurgles and steams, echoing the volcanic surroundings. This is one of Sicily’s lesser-known hotels, a favorite with Italians wrapped in fluffy towels, oscillating between spa and pool (sliced into volcanic rock with contemporary finesse), before tucking into Guiseppe Raciti’s signature uovo poche croccante and soul-stirring pasta plates. SP2/I-II, 60, 95018 Riposto CT, Italy; zash.it
THE ASHBEE HOTEL A Leading Hotel of the World, The Ashbee Hotel is set in a peaceful 20th-century Sicilian villa in the heart of Taormina. In the early 1900s, Colonel Shaw-Hellier commissioned architect Charles Robert Ashbee, an English designer and entrepreneur and key figure of the Arts & Craft movement, to design the original house. Just few steps from the main street and chic boutiques of Taormina, the hotel offers easy access to the top restaurants, main theaters, museums and key points of the artistic and historic heritage of the city. Today, this newly revitalized property offers some of the finest accommodation in Sicily, with everything the sophisticated traveler requires for a relaxing stay. Viale S. Pancrazio, 46, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy; theashbeehotel.com
DINE | DRINK
ANTICA FOCACCERIA SAN FRANCISCO A historic restaurant with a large area of outdoor seating in a beautifully lit piazza in front of the church of San Francesco. Try a sampling of the fresh flatbreads. Via Alessandro Paternostro, 58, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy; anticafocacceria.it/it
TRATTORIA CORONA A family-owned locals only seafood restaurant with a great wine list. Try the seafood pastas with swordfish. Via Guglielmo Marconi, 9, 90141 Palermo PA, Italy; coronatrattoria.com
OSTERIA DEI VESPRI Fish dishes & pasta, plus an extensive wine list, in a stone-lined space or at courtyard tables. Piazza Croce dei Vespri, 6, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy; osteriadeivespri.it
OSTERIA BALLARO Sicilian antipasti, pasta & mains with a creative twist, in the former stables of a medieval palace. Via Calascibetta, 25, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy; osteriaballaro.it
OSTERIA NONNA DORA Buzzing local landmark offering hearty regional plates in a traditionally furnished dining room. Via E.Lombardi, 7/8, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy
TRATTORIA TRAPANI A traditional family-run restaurant with Sicilian specialties. P.za Giulio Cesare, 16, 90127 Palermo PA, Italy;
OSTERIA DEI VESPRI Fish dishes & pasta, plus an extensive wine list, in a stone-lined space or at courtyard tables. Piazza Croce dei Vespri, 6, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy; osteriadeivespri.it
L’OTTAVA NOTA Located in the city’s cosmopolitan Kalsa district and known for ceviche or amberjack tataki. Inventive, artfully plated Sicilian cuisine, plus wine pairings, in a minimalist setting. Via Butera, 55, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy; ristoranteottavanota.it
A’CUNCUMA Founded in 2012 by Vincenzo Pinto it then passed into the hands of Chef Gianfilippo Gatto. A simple and intimate restaurant situated in Palermo's historic centre. The key attraction here is the quality of the cuisine, which features colorful dishes, and a tasting menu that journeys through the flavors of Sicily from both the sea and the earth. Via Judica, 21, 90134 Palermo PA, Italy; acuncumarestaurant.com
MERCATO DEL CAPO The city’s lesser-known market where locals go and where irresistible wafts of zucchini fritti, panelle, and arancini greet clued-up wanderers. Mercato del Capo, Via Cappuccinelle, Palermo, PA, Italy
I SEGRETI DEL CHIOSTRO A fervently traditional cake and pastry shop in the Santa Caterina convent courtyard, known for its cannoli (try the pistachio topping). Piazza Bellini, 33, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy; isegretidelchiostro.shop
FERRO DI CAVALLO A family-run Sicilian institution since WWII, for local classics like pasta con sardi (anchovy pasta) and melanzane alla norma, which you'll likely know better as eggplant parm. Via Venezia, 20, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy; ferrodicavallopalermo.it
PICCOLO NAPOLI A superb fish restaurant for dinner serving heaping portions of sea urchin spaghetti. It's so close to the Palermo shore that you can practically smell the sea from its small dining room, a scent that will linger long after you fly out the next morning. Piazzetta Mulino a Vento, 4, 90139 Palermo PA, Italy
TRATTORIA DA SALVO One of many Palermo restaurants offering a delicious antipasto table at lunch. Eat right on the bustling street; via Torremuzza 19, 90133, Palermo
CAFFÉ SICILIA A name which may ring a bell for those who watched Chef’s Table: Pastry. In the town center, a visit to the outwardly unassuming 124-year-old Caffè Sicilia, whose fourth-generation co-owner, Corrado Assenza, serves almond-milk granita and cappuccino ghiacciato (iced coffee with almond milk granita), is a must. The Ferran Adrià of pastry, Assenza is constantly evolving his confections, which might include hazelnut sponge cake with pumpkin puree or peach marmalade with a dusting of dark chocolate. Dessert, like the town’s architectural mix and local dialect, defies easy cultural classification, reflecting the French, Greek, Roman, Arab, and North African influences that distinguish Sicily from the rest of Italy. If you're lucky, the server will direct you to a lesser-known specialty: fresh buffalo mozzarella “broken open with your hands, never with a fork,” and topped with citrusy bergamot jam. Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 125, Noto 96017; caffesicilia.it
PASTICCERIA CAPPELLO If you’re looking for something sweet, Sicilian pastries are of course the stuff of legend, from cannoli to ricotta-stuffed cassatelle. A perennial favorite and something of a Palermo institution is conveniently found just steps from the tourist hotspot of the Palazzo dei Normanni, which serves all the classic Sicilian dolci along with their famous setteveli cake, featuring seven layers of chocolate and hazelnuts. pasticceriacappello.it
OTTO GELENG The Otto Geleng restaurant at Grand Hotel Timeo in Taormina features just eight tables overlooking the Bay of Naxos with spectacular views of Etna and inventive riffs on traditional Sicilian dishes by chef Roberto Toro. Via Teatro Greco, 59, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy; belmond.com/dining/europe/italy/taormina/otto-geleng
ST. GEORGE BY HEINZ BECK Headed up by one of the youngest Michelin-star chefs in Italy, Delfo Schiaffino. situated in The Ashbee Hotel, an early-20C villa. Viale S. Pancrazio, 46, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy; theashbeehotel.it/menu-st-george-restaurant-by-heinz-beck/
LA PASTICCERRIA ROBERTO The place to go for authentic cannolis! From the Antica Pasticceria Siciliana of Michele, head pastry chef at the Hotel San Domenico in the 1960s, the Laboratorio Pasticceria Roberto was born. His name is linked to the history of pastry shops in Taormina, and his legacy has been carried on by the Chemi family, in particular by his son Roberto together with his children Erika and Omar. If you are looking for the best place to enjoy fresh and delicious cannoli, you are in the right place! Corso Umberto I, 87 - 98039 Taormina (ME); labpasticceriaroberto.com
TISCHI TOSCHI A cozy restaurant with local cuisine. Luca Casablanca, the chef and owner of Tischi Toschi, commands this two-storey trattoria with an idiosyncratic wit, and can be spotted on most nights eating here, accompanied by his diminutive dog. His intelligent menu is a panoply of modern Sicilian fare, from whole artichoke, crisp with just a smattering of flour, to his take on the traditional local aubergine dish caponata, but with almonds and seasoned with a little cocoa powder. Every morsel of pecorino baked with garlic, oregano and parsley was mopped up with bread. No wonder Yotam Ottolenghi previously declared on Instagram that "Everything's superb at Tischi Toschi".Vico Cuscona-Paladini, 98039, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy; tischitoschitaormina.com
MORGANA Taormina may be small, but there is still much to enjoy after dusk. Morgana is the town's hotspot, especially during the film festival, when it attracts starlets with its extensive drinks selection and mixologist's skill. The proprietor Guido Spinello changes the garden every year, which becomes a big event in the town's calendar, and is an intimate space in which to enjoy an expertly made gin and tonic, or a Negroni against the dying embers of sunset. Go early, as queues will form from midnight, when the dancing begins. Scesa Morgana, 4, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy; morganataormina.it.
PRESTIPINO CAFÉ Start your morning here with a traditional cafe con brioche il gelato and granita. Via Etnea, 30/32 - 95124 Catania; prestipinocafe.com
BAM BAR Sicilians abroad grow misty-eyed at the mention of granita, but what is a snack for us is in fact their breakfast, and served with a generously sized brioche bun. Bam Bar is the local's favorite hangout, where grown men sit under the awning, surveying the piazza, while tucking into the town's best granita – coffee-flavored, with whipped cream and a fluffy brioche. Via di Giovanni, 45, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy
BAR GARIBALDI Visit at 8pm for aperitivo. 91022 Castelvetrano, Trapani, Italy
DUOMO Chef Ciccio Sultano provides an intimate portrait of Sicily at this restaurant situated just a stone’s throw from the Duomo di San Giorgio in the heart of Ibla, one of the most charming historic centers in Sicily. Drawing on his deep knowledge of the region, he creates some of the island’s most spectacular cuisine, which is served in comfortable, intimate dining rooms. There are two tasting menus, from which dishes can also be chosen à la carte. We highly recommend the pasta with sea urchin, chard and hazelnuts. via Cap. Bocchieri 31, Ragusa, 97100, Italy; cicciosultano.it
MARIA GRAMMATICO PASTICCERIA This pastry shop in Erice is famous for cakes and marzipan, which you can eat in a beautiful courtyard garden; Via Vittorio Emanuele, 14, 91016 Erice TP, Italy; mariagrammatico.it
WUNDERBAR CAFFÉ Taormina’s landmark restaurant and cafe is certainly wonderful for the views, but the old-fashioned waiters can be abrupt; wunderbarcaffe.it
ART | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
CAMERA DELLE MERAVIGLIE A recently discovered secret chamber with beautiful Arabic inscriptions and art lining the walls. Via Porta di Castro, 90134 Palermo PA, Italy
PALAZZO VALGUERNERA GANGI Palazzo Gangi in Palermo's historic center is famous for its appearance in Luchino Visconti's "The Leopard" dance scene. Piazza Croce dei Vespri, 6, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy
MUSEO PALAZZO BRANCHIFORTE The Palazzo Branciforte is a Renaissance-style aristocratic palace located on Via Bara dell'Olivella, in the historic center of Palermo. Largo Gae Aulenti, 2, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy; palazzobranciforte.it
TEATRO MASSIMO The Teatro Massimo Vittorio Emanuele is an opera house and opera company located on the Piazza Verdi in Palermo, Sicily. It was dedicated to King Victor Emanuel II. It is the biggest in Italy, and one of the largest of Europe, renowned for its perfect acoustics. P.za Giuseppe Verdi, 90138 Palermo PA, Italy; teatromassimo.it
DONNAFUGATA, CONTESSA ENTELLINA Donnafugata meaning “the woman who fled” is a winery and tasting room by Giacomo and Gabriella Rallo, a fourth-generation family with over 170 years of experience in quality wine. Dolce & Gabbana designed special bottles of Rose, which are for sale. SS624, Km 60, 90030 Palermo PA, Italy; donnafugata.it
ANNA TASCA LANZA COOKING SCHOOL For the last 30 years, Anna Tasca Lanza has attracted the likes of Alice Waters and the late Julia Child–so we know it’s the real deal. What began as a project on her family’s 19th-century Sicilian villa became a true farm-to-table way of learning and cooking, where every student learns as much about the garden and sources of the ingredients as they do about cooking them. After her passing in 2006, Anna Tasca’s daughter, Fabrizia, took over the school, making sure to honor her mother’s practices. Courses include everything from a one-day class to a five-day workshop, and range from lessons in horticulture and cheese making to wine production to coffee roasting. There’s also a 10-week program available if you’re looking for something more intensive. Contrada Regaleali, località Case Vecchie, 93010 Vallelunga Pratameno CL, Italy; annatascalanza.com
PALAZZO BUTERA The Palazzo Butera is a Baroque-style aristocratic palace located facing the Mediterranean in the ancient quarter of Kalsa of central Palermo. It has been reopened as a museum. Via Butera, 8, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy; palazzobutera.it
TEATRO GARIBALDI The Garibaldi Theatre offers a varied program including prose, dance, classical music, shows for young people and cultural events. Via Carmine, 15, 91026 Mazara del Vallo TP, Italy
ORATORIO DI SAN LORENZO Famous for its Caravaggio altarpiece, this Baroque oratory in Palermo is located near the Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi, in the quarter of the Kalsa, within the historic center. Via Immacolatella, 5, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy; amicimuseisiciliani.it/amicideimusei/
PALAZZO CASTELLUCCIO An 18th-century palace that French filmmaker Jean-Louis Remilleux acquired in 2011 and spent four years restoring. Via Camillo Benso Conte di Cavour, 10, 96017 Noto SR, Italy; palazzocastelluccio.it
VALLEY OF THE TEMPLES Near the town of Agrigento—as well as the ruins of the ancient cities of Segesta and Selinunte on the island’s west coast—offer some of the best-preserved and most jaw-dropping examples of ancient Greek architecture outside of the Acropolis. 92100, Agrigento, Italy; parcovalledeitempli.it
VILLA ROMANA DEL CASALE A short drive from the charming town of Piazza Armerina, offer an insight into the whimsical decor of an ancient holiday home, from exotic animals being transported from Africa to Europe to bikini-clad gymnasts. SP90, 94015 Piazza Armerina EN, Italy; Villaromanadelcasale.it
PALAZZO RISO In Palermo, a contemporary art museum housing a number of works by artists from the arte povera movement of the 1960s and ’70s including Jannis Kounellis, Carla Accardi, and Giovanni Anselmo, as well as international artists such as Richard Long and Christian Boltanski. (For bibliophiles, there’s also a well-curated bookshop and a cafe.) Via Vittorio Emanuele, 365, 90134 Palermo PA; museoartecontemporanea.it
FRANCESCO PANTALEONE ARTE CONTEMPORANEA A contemporary art museum founded in 2013 showcasing Sicilian artists. Via Vittorio Emanuele, 303, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy; fpac.it
NUVOLE INCONTRI D’ARTE An art gallery founded in 1996 by a group of artists and is located along the historic streets of Vicolo Ragusi, near Quattro Canti. Vicolo Ragusi 35 (angolo Via Del Celso 14), 90134 Palermo PA, Italy;
RIZZUTO GALLERY A contemporary art gallery in Palermo. Via Maletto, 5, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy; rizzutogallery.com
PUBLIC GARDENS OF TAORMINA Once privately owned, which likely accounts for the feeling of intimacy and attention to detail that is so present as you walk through them. Walk the paths surrounded by magnolias, hibiscus and bougainvillea for a quiet break from the busier streets of the town. The peaceful setting also makes for a great picnic spot, so grab some provisions from the shops in town and find your perfect spot amongst the greenery. traveltaormina.com/en/monuments/public-gardens-taormina
CASA BARBADORO | DIODOROS Enjoy an authentic pasta making cooking class after a visit to the Valley of Temples. Via Giuseppe la Loggia, 92100 Agrigento AG, Italy; authmycookie.com
FONDAZIONE PUGLISI COSENTIN A cultural center in Catania. Via Vittorio Emanuele II, 120, 95131 Catania CT, Italy; fondazionepuglisicosentino.it
CHIESA DEL GESÙ The Church of the Gesù is the mother church of the Society of Jesus, a Catholic religious order. Officially named Chiesa del Santissimo Nome di Gesù, its façade is "the first truly baroque façade", introducing the baroque style into architecture. Piazza del Gesù, 00186 Roma RM, Italy; chiesadelgesu.org
MONREALE CATHEDRAL Palermo’s epic cathedral stands like a golden halo atop a hill overlooking the city. A trip to this gold-red-and-blue church—whose grounds are studded with palms and whose arches nod to the Arab influence you’ll find all over the island—is non-negotiable even for those who swear they've had their fill of European churches. Piazza Guglielmo II, 1, 90046 Monreale PA, Italy; duomomonreale.com
PLANETA WINERY One of Sicily's premier wine estates, is an easy day trip from Palermo. The estate, run by the powerful Planeta family—who have six vineyards throughout the island—has 720 acres of chardonnay and nero d'avola vines, a modern tasting room, and an excellent vineyard-side restaurant (don't miss a glimpse of their 16th-century farmhouse which has been in the family for 17 generations).
BEACHES
Of course, a holiday wouldn’t be a holiday without a dip in the ocean—and once again, Sicily has you more than covered. To find its best beaches, there are two regions worth exploring. First and foremost, there are the pristine sandy shores of the island’s west coast, most notably around the cities of Trapani and Marsala, lapped by turquoise-blue Mediterranean waters that stay warm even into the fall. (Some of the best-known include San Vito lo Capo, Tonnara di Scopello, Cala Marinella, and Marakaiobbo, but for more intrepid explorers there are plenty of more off-the-beaten-track coves to be discovered too.) The other place to find some of the island’s most gorgeous swimming destinations is at its southwestern tip in the provinces of Ragusa and Siracusa, with many in tricky-to-reach spots that more than reward the extra effort, such as the picture-postcard Calamosche or the nearby and slightly more accessible Marianelli. And if you’re in the region and feeling particularly adventurous, take a trip to the Cavagrande del Cassibile nature reserve, an enormous canyon full of scenic trekking trails that remains one of Sicily’s best-kept secrets. The ultimate highlight? After a long journey deep into the valley, you’ll find a network of crystal-clear lakes, waterfalls, and rock pools to cool off as the sun begins to fall behind the top of the canyon. Venture to the southeastern coast, however, and the car-free Vendicari Reserve spanning the island’s tip from Noto to Marzamemi is a protected paradise of secluded coves and glorious blonde beaches. The wildlife rises to this extraordinary setting of endless dunes, glassy water, and saline lagoons, with migratory birds and pink flamingos filling the sky in spring and autumn. Marianelli, with its bath-warm shallows, and Calamosche’s wild stretch of beach are both a little tricky to reach—but the best things in life usually are.
SHOP
ORTIGIA Italian soap and fragrance company. Beautiful colours and scents. Perfumes, creams, soaps, candles with natural ingredients and olive oil of Sicily. ortigiasicilia.com
FOLK BY MAGDA MASANO The third-generation artisan fashions decorative home pieces from lava stone, marble, and ceramics, all of which (like Magda) are deeply connected to the island, whispering stories of its tumultuous past and showcasing a rich heritage of craftsmanship. Come here for pudding plates honoring Minnuzze di Sant’Agata (sweet cakes prepared each February by Catanians as a symbol of fertility), glazed lava stone chess sets, and the Testa di Moro (a ubiquitous Sicilian symbol), as well as pastel-hued bummulu jugs nodding to a history of Arabic influence. Via S. Michele, 17- 19, 95131 Catania CT, Italy; magdamasano.it
GALLERIA LO MAGNO Curations support young, emerging artists as well as showcasing the works of a more established coterie. Works on display include Francesco Balsamo’s juxtaposed prints and verse, and Rossana Taormina’s exploration of memory through an intriguing mix of photography and embroidery. Via Risorgimento, 93, 97015 Modica RG, Italy; lomagnoartecontemporanea.it
ANTICA DOLCERIA BONAJUTO Upscale chocolatier selling dark chocolate bars & pastries to take away or eat outside. Corso Umberto I, 159, 97015 Modica RG, Italy; bonajuto.it
LA VUCCIRIA An ancient, large market or bazaar area and neighborhood, with shops and tables selling products, produce, and foodstuffs in Palermo. Piazza Caracciolo, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy
BALLARÒ The fish and farmers' market winding through alleys and tiny piazzas just north of the city center, about a ten-minute walk from the hotel. The place is an urban circus of vendors squawking out the prices of whole baby sharks and eggplant to those passing by, halal butchers carving up carcasses, and mounds of divine Sicilian pistachios and almonds. The tastiest snack is right at the end where stands sell traditional fried chickpea fritters, called panelle, for a euro; they pair brilliantly with the cold beer on tap at the outdoor bars nearby.
ANTONIO LO TURCO A unique antique store in Taormina. Corso Umberto, 106, 980 39 Taormina ME, Italy
IL SANDALO CAPRESE Create custom leather sandals at a great price. Their cobbler measures and makes each pair on site, and with their wide variety of styles and colors, there's a little something for everyone.
DAY TRIPS
PANTELLERIA Perhaps best-known internationally for serving as the backdrop to Luca Guadagnino’s decadent 2015 psychological drama A Bigger Splash, starring Tilda Swinton swanning around the island’s epic landscapes. Mere decades ago the island was barely known outside of Italy, gaining international recognition partly thanks to Giorgio Armani’s dramatic, sprawling estate on the north side of the island, while other celebrity vacationers in the past have included Madonna, Julia Roberts, and Sting. With its wild winds, windy roads, and rugged landscape, it’s often said that Pantelleria is “the island with no beaches,” although there are dozens upon dozens of stunning coves in which to take a dip. Stay at the stunning hotel Sikelia located near the charming town of Scauri on the island’s south side. Blending the earthy minimalism of the traditional dammusi they were built from with more opulent touches like Frette linens and contemporary artworks, the holistic aesthetic vision for the hotel—spearheaded by its colorful owner, former basketball player Giulia Gelmetti—beautifully echo the colors and textures of the island itself. A highlight here is the dining, which manages to add gourmet flourishes while still remaining unfussy, with a particular highlight, inevitably, being the seafood. Under the guidance of Executive Chef Diego Battaglia, the restaurant’s food offering reflects Pantelleria’s unique location which actually hems closer to that of Tunisia than Sicily itself, incorporating Arab and North African elements into his riffs on the classic Sicilian ingredients of sea urchin, red prawns, and swordfish. Make sure you spend an evening at the hotel’s vineyard, Coste Ghirlanda—located a mere 10-minute drive away—where you can watch the stars before taking in a tasting menu under the care of chef Luca Mastromattei. If you make it all the way to Pantelleria, make sure you stop by Osteria il Principe e il Pirata near the idyllic village of Gadir, known to be a favorite of Giorgio Armani’s whenever he hosts guests at his nearby holiday home. Start with grilled octopus or mackerel before enjoying homemade linguine or tagliolini with fresh seafood—all caught off the coast that morning, naturally.
ISOLA BELLA A tiny island off the coast of Taormina that was purchased by the Region of Sicily and turned into a nature reserve. A small stretch of sand attaches it to the beach on the mainland, so you can walk there (though you may have to wade through shallow water depending on the tides). While you need to purchase a ticket to explore the full island, the view of it from the beach is quite breathtaking—brace yourself for eclectic European crowds, but they only add to the experience. There are plenty of beach clubs and restaurants dotted across the shoreline, so it's the perfect place for lunch or for a late afternoon cocktail.
ORTIGIA The small Baroque island of Ortigia, the historic center of Syracuse, is widely considered one of the most beautiful destinations in Sicily. Inhabited for over 3,000 years and renowned for its Greek heritage, it is a UNESCO landmark for its "remarkable testimony of the Mediterranean cultures over the centuries” and makes for a perfect weekend escape in any season. Dotted with impressive church facades, outdoor restaurants, elegant piazzas and surrounded by a crystalline sea, Ortigia is more manicured than Catania, less overrun that Taormina and as delicious as Palermo.
SPA
IRENE FORTE SPA Right on the ocean near Palermo, Verdura Resort is serene, relaxing, and all out luxurious. The stunning Irene Forte Spa, surrounded by olive trees and orange groves, is a playground of thalassotherapy pools, Finnish saunas, steam rooms, and more, but the facials are next-level. Each one uses Forte’s luxe, clean skin care line—made with botanicals sourced on Verdura’s own organic farm. We love the Etna Age-Defying Facial—90 minutes of cleansing, toning, and exfoliation, face massage, lymphatic drainage (they use cold volcanic stones sourced from Etna mountain), and a moisture-bomb hyaluronic acid treatment to seal it all in. You’ll walk out totally relaxed, refreshed, with a luminous glow. S.S. 115 Km 131, Sicily; ireneforteskincare.com