Madrid
Flamenco Society, Madrid, Slim Aarons, 1957
Madrid is a city of elegant boulevards and expansive, manicured parks such as the Buen Retiro. It’s renowned for its rich repositories of European art, including the Prado Museum with works by Goya, Velázquez, and other Spanish masters. The heart of old Hapsburg Madrid is the portico-lined Plaza Mayor. Here is our guide to Madrid, Spain.
STAY
HOTEL WELLINGTON A grand hotel near the Buen Retiro Park with a well-stocked bar, gorgeous décor, a Clarins spa, outdoor pool, and a rooftop organic garden— one of the largest of its kind in Europe. Food-wise, there’s around-the-clock room service and on-site dining options ranging from sushi to classic Basque. C. de Velázquez, 8; hotel-wellington.com
MANDARIN ORIENTAL RITZ Occupying a massive Belle Epoch palace mere steps from the Prado that speaks to Madrid's illustrious history, the Ritz actually belongs to the Mandarin Oriental family of hotels, despite its name. The grand lobby, champagne bar, English-style tea room, and excellent Basque restaurant are all decked out with the grand flourishes of the early 20th century. The rooms are equally opulent, with rich tapestries, ornate rugs, and period furniture that oozes old-world charm. Pl. de la Lealtad, 5; mandarinoriental.com/en/madrid
THE PRINCIPAL A prime location at the intersection of Gran Via and Marqués de Valdeiglesias with museums, squares, parks, and shopping streets steps away. In stark contrast to the Art Deco façade, the guestrooms are all shades of grey, slick mid-century furniture, and the occasional burst of jewel-tones—clearly a testament to hotelier Pau Guardans penchant for marrying the old with the new. Conveniently, there are two restaurants on-site: Atico, the brainchild of two-Michelin star chef Ramón Freixa, is open 24/7, while La Terraza is the lush indoor-outdoor garden terrace attached to the hotel’s prized solarium—complete with lounge chairs and outdoor showers for cooling off. In place of a spa, there’s an intimate two-person wellness suite and sauna. C. del Marqués de Valdeiglesias, 1; theprincipalmadridhotel.com
AC SANTO MAURO Spread out over three elegant buildings that used to serve as the home of the Duke of Santo Mauro, this recently renovated boutique hotel is a love letter to the decadence and splendor of old Madrid. Inside, the former ballroom has been turned into a sweeping lobby and the library became La Biblioteca Restaurant, where you'll find an excellent menu of traditional Spanish cuisine. Meanwhile, the spacious guestrooms are done in comforting earth tones for maximum relaxation. Calle de Zurbano, 36; marriott.com/en-us/hotels/madlc-santo-mauro
HOTEL URSO If you book a room at Hotel Urso, consider carving a day out of your sightseeing itinerary to spend exploring everything this five-star property has to offer. Start with breakfast in bed or on a private balcony, then head down to the Natura Bissé spa. For dinner, The Table is a revolving pop-up experience that invites chefs from various world-class restaurants around Spain to take over both the kitchen and dining room. Meanwhile, The Conservatory is ideal for a traditional meal and its downstairs Urso Bar is the perfect spot for a nightcap. Hotel Urso also houses a wonderful restaurant, Media Racíon, guided by the same family that runs the beloved Madrilēnos establishment Cuenllas. Their modern interpretation of Spanish delights is worth an indulgent dinner. C. de Mejía Lequerica, 8; hotelurso.com
ROSEWOOD VILLA MAGNA A great choice for an extended stay, this former royal residence underwent a massive top-to-bottom revamp to turn it into the grand and welcoming city retreat it is today. Paired with exceptional service, the elegantly turned-out guestrooms are meant to serve as a home-away-from-home; Tse Yang restaurant, with its tufted booths and elevated Chinese comfort food menu, also helps the cause. P.º de la Castellana, 22; rosewoodhotels.com/en/villa-magna
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL MADRID Set in an 1880s building, this recently opened property is located in the city center near the Plaza Mayor. Visit Dani Brasserie's rooftop for views over Madrid. C. de Sevilla, 3; fourseasons.com/madrid
THE EDITION Central Madrid, steps away from Plaza Mayor, is now home to the newest ‘edition’ of Edition Hotels by Ian Schrager. The signature spiral staircase and Le Labo scent greets you upon entering. Pl. de Celenque, 2; marriott.com/en-us/hotels/madeb-the-madrid-edition
HERITAGE HOTEL This relais & chateaux property was built at the beginning of the 20th century and decorated in belle-époque style. The immaculate façade of the Heritage Hotel stands proudly in one of the most elegant districts of the Spanish capital. Today it houses a hotel that tastefully marries classicism with the urban environment. Designer Lorenzo Castillo has created a warm decor of lacquered wood, polychrome marble, and handmade wallpaper, which serves as a showcase for a magnificent collection of European antiques and artwork dating from the 18th and 19th centuries. In much the same way, chef Mario Sandoval, at the helm of Haroma Restaurant, elevates the finest ingredients through his eclectic and sophisticated cuisine. Calle de Diego de León, 43; heritagemadridhotel.com
HOTEL ORFILA In the heart of Madrid, just five minutes from the Museo del Prado, where Hieronymus Bosch’s masterpiece, The Garden of Earthly Delights, hangs among the paintings of Vélasquez, Titian and Rubens, another garden of delights awaits. The Hotel Orfila, a relais & chateaux property, and a small palace built in 1886, has the feel of an art gallery, with its period furniture, feature marble and superb trompe l’oeil effects in the green garden courtyard. In the 1920s, the hotel was made famous by the plays staged within its walls. Today, its flowered patio invites you to dine under the stars and its tea room is imbued with English chic. C. de Orfila, 6; hotelorfila.com
BLESS HOTEL Located in the Salamanca district, steps away from museums, designer shops, and nightlife, Bless Hotel Madrid stands out for its unique style and timeless design, capturing the essence of the capital. The hotel is distinguished by its sensory architecture, a modern design equipped with the most advanced technology. C. de Velázquez, 62; blesscollectionhotels.com/es/madrid
PALACIO DE LOS DUQUES, A GRAN MELIA HOTEL Located in the Habsburg district next to The Royal Palace, The Opera House, and The Cathedral. Inspired by Velazquez's masterpieces, this beautiful hotel combines two historic buildings – a 13th-century convent and the 19th-century Palace of Dukes of Granada de Ega – updated in an avant-garde style. Behind the magnificent Elizabethan façade, guests will find spacious rooms and luxurious suites, many of them specially designed for families. The expansive outdoors is a lush green sanctuary and constitutes the soul of the hotel, offering a relaxing solarium, a peaceful garden, and a cocktail bar with an exquisite range of contemporary cuisine. Cuesta de Sto. Domingo, 5; melia.com/en/hotels/spain/madrid/palacio-de-los-duques-gran-melia
GRAN HOTEL INGLES The first hotel to be built in Madrid, Gran Hotel Inglés dates back to 1886. Completely restored and renovated under the artistic direction of Rockwell Group, the hotel has become one of the finest properties in today’s Madrid. Situated in an incomparable location in the city center, it is near the cultural, commercial, and leisure areas of the capital. Among its many attributes is a sophisticated restaurant that combines traditional and innovative cuisine, as well as a comprehensive fitness center with top-of-the-line exercise equipment, offering, a varied program of services and activities, and a complete wellness area with a wide range of exclusive treatments and products. Calle de Echegaray, 8; granhotelingles.com
HOTEL FENIX Uniquely situated on the Plaza de Colón, Hotel Fenix, a Gran Melia Hotel is a reference of the finest in the city´s hotel industry. Its magnificent location in the exclusive Salamanca neighborhood, in the heart of the financial district and surrounded by the famous streets of Serrano, Velázquez, Goya and on the Paseo of la Castellana, allows guests to easily reach the city´s most emblematic attractions. It is only a 10-minute walk from the famous Gran Vía and museums like the Prado, the Reina Sofía, and the Thyssen. C. de Hermosilla, 2; melia.com/en/hotels/spain/madrid/fenix-gran-melia
DEAR HOTEL This 162-room boutique hotel is housed in a beautiful neoclassical building and is the perfect example of how perfectly contemporary design elements—minimal furniture, museum-white walls, and lots of high-tech gadgetry—can lend themselves to a traditional space. The rooms are kept purposefully stark, with the street-facing windows and scattered pops of grey serving as the sole decorative elements. Upstairs, on the 360-degree terrace, you’ll find the Sky Pool and the Nice to Meet You restaurant, which in addition to great tapas, cocktails, and music, offers the most intense sunsets and panoramic views of the Madrid skyline. C/ Gran Vía, 80; dearhotelmadrid.com
TÔTEM A boutique hotel set in a 19th-century building in Salamanca with an elegant cocktail bar and fashionable restaurant inspired by F. Scott Fitzgerald’s “The Beautiful and the Damned.” C. de Hermosilla, 23; totem-madrid.com
ME MADRID REINA VICTORIA Set in an elegant 1923 building with modern interiors, a spa, a trendy rooftop bar, and a refined restaurant offering traditional and modern-style tapas. C. del Príncipe, 14; melia.com/en/hotels/spain/madrid/me-madrid-reina-victoria
ONLY YOU An upscale boutique hotel, set in a former 19th-century palace, with a striking, contemporary restaurant offering a fusion menu, plus a trendy cocktail/tapas bar and a terrace. The hotel also offers a fitness room, Thai massages, and beauty treatments. C. del Barquillo, 21; onlyyouhotels.com
DINE
TEN CON TEN A lively tapas spot that serves classic dishes with a modern twist. Cl. de Ayala, 6; restaurantetenconten.com
SOBRINO DE BOTÍN A Spanish fixture since 1725, famous for its roast suckling pig mentioned in Hemingway’s “The Sun Also Rises.” C. de Cuchilleros, 17; botin.es
EL PARAGUAS Located on the elegant Calle de Jorge Juan in Salamanca, Asturian dishes like bean stew and fried veal with ham & cheese are served. C. de Jorge Juan, 16; elparaguas.com
FISMULER Gastronomy meets interior design in this restaurant with an austere retro-industrial feel. Despite this, the service and ambience is relaxed, with a menu that features pleasantly updated traditional cuisine. C. de Sagasta, 29; fismuler.com
LA MARUCA Elegant dining room specializing in meaty Cantabrian cuisine. We recommend the croquetas de bacalao and cheese tart. C. de Velázquez, 54; restaurantelamaruca.com
LA TRAINERA Oysters, lobster, and seafood platters in a long-established, nautically themed restaurant. Calle de Lagasca, 60; latrainera.es
QUINTIN Inventive Mediterranean food, plus breakfast, cocktails, and a market, in a revamped grocery store. C. de Jorge Juan, 17; ultramarinosquintin.es
LA MAQUINA Spanish meat and fish specialties in an elegant space with exposed brick walls and a separate bar. C. de Jorge Juan, 12; lamaquinajorgejuan.es
CHARRUA Uruguayan steakhouse with an extensive wine list in a polished, rustic-chic setting. C. del Conde de Xiquena; charruamadrid.com
LOBITO DEL MAR Acclaimed Spanish Chef Dani Garcia’s polished venue spotlighting creative seafood plates & desserts, plus cocktails & a robust wine list. C. de Jorge Juan, 10; grupodanigarcia.com/lobito-de-mar/madrid
LA PARRA A cozy, charming restaurant in Chamberí, known for its creative cuisine based on traditional recipes. Calle del Monte Esquinza, 34; restaurante-laparra.com
BEL MONDO Bright, whimsical eatery offering classic Italian provisions, a robust wine list & terrace seating. C. de Velázquez, 39; bigmammagroup.com/fr/trattorias/bel-mondo
CASA LUCIO Walking through the heavy-wood, tavern-style entryway to this eatery is akin to stepping into the Madrid of yesteryear—the plates are monogrammed, the waiters are suited-up, and the clientele spans politicians, locals, eccentrics, and the occasional royal. Casa Lucio is an olive oil soaked slice of the old-world, traditional yet incredibly refined with a classic menu of gastronomical favorites to match. Try the huevos estrellados—crispy, salty fried potatoes topped with broken runny eggs and be sure to linger over your desert for the all-important sobremesa (loosely translated as post-dinner debate and conversation) that keeps Madrileños firmly planted the table until the early hours. C. de la Cava Baja, 35; casalucio.es
AMAZONICO An opulent jungle-inspired restaurant in Salamanca by the gastronomic power couple behind El Paraguas and Ten con Ten. Hanging palms, lush jungle prints, and a circular sushi bar topped with exotic fruits and a luminous stuffed peacock — the work of the Catalan interior designer Lázaro Rosa-Violán. Chef Sandro Silva’s menu travels from his native Brazil to Japan by way of Argentina, India, China, and Peru. The result is creations like Hawaiian-style red tuna poke tartare with sesame, pineapple and toasted cashews, and raw scarlet shrimp yarikahua marinated in lime and yuzu with purple corn, in addition to fire-grilled meats and cocktails containing dragon fruit and sambucus flower. C. Jorge Juan, 20; restauranteamazonico.com
HERMANAS ARCE A bright, cozy cafe started by two sisters, hence the name. Perfect for Saturday brunch or working during the cafe while enjoying a cafecito and freshly-baked croissant, warm from the oven. C. Marqués de Monasterio, 6
ANA LASANTA Ana La Santa and Bosco de Lobos are two Madrid restaurants from En Compañia de Lobos, a restaurant group out of Barcelona that's a family affair. Owner Tomas Tarruella founded his first few restaurants with his mother, Rosa Maria Esteva, and while his new restaurant company is actually a solo venture, it lacks none of the creativity and excellent service his family originally became famous for. Chief among his new projects is this Salamanca spot, which offers traditional Spanish food including paella served alongside a quinoa salad, Mexican tortilla soup, and red curry with Iberian pork cheek. In keeping with family tradition, the bright, verdant, Scandinavian-inspired interiors were designed by Tarruella's sister, Sandra. C. del Príncipe, 14; encompaniadelobos.com/ana-la-santa/
RESTAURANT SACHA It doesn't get more classic than Sacha, an old-school Spanish restaurant that was originally started by a couple who named the place after their only son. As luck would have it, Sacha is now the head chef and proprietor, helming a menu that's become a staple for Madrid foodies. The offerings here change seasonally, but the selection always has its foundation in traditional Spanish cuisine, serving locally caught seafood, bold meat dishes, and classic tapas prepared using fresh, simple ingredients. Zona ajardinada, C. de Juan Hurtado de Mendoza, 11, Posterior; restaurantesacha.com
TABERNA LAREDA Taberna Laredo is our pick for authentic Spanish food that's modern and up-to-date without being overly fussy. In typical Spanish style, the upstairs space offers a full meal (and impressive wine list), while the downstairs is a tapas-only bar. Madrid is a city of night owls, so make a late reservation and watch locals belly up to the bar for well-executed cocktails and small dishes. Calle del Dr. Castelo, 30; tabernalaredo.com
LA TASTQUITA DE ENFRENTE A must-visit restaurant in Madrid to try Chef Juanjó Lopez's incredible Spanish food, the menu changes seasonally. Try the chef's tasting menu, and the wine to go with it. C. de la Ballesta, 6; https://www.latasquitadeenfrente.com/
TABERNA PEDRAZA The eclectic decor includes colorful, mismatched tiled floors, disparate chairs, flower arrangements, and a small open kitchen where you can see Chef Santiago Pedraza working his magic. Order the classics, like croquettes, tortilla, steak, and the dessert of the day. C. de Recoletos, 4; tabernapedraza.com
LA COCINA DE SAN ANTON La Cocina de San Anton is the restaurant on the roof of the beloved Mercado de San Anton, where locals do their shopping. There's an open terrace for alfresco dining when the weather cooperates, but even on chilly days, the wide windows on both sides of the restaurant offer gorgeous views of the city. The menu leans on classic Spanish dishes, with excellent jamón de bellota, steak tartare, and grilled octopus, served with generous pitchers of sangria. Terraza Mercado de San Antón, C. de Augusto Figueroa, 24, 3ª planta; osborne.es/es/restaurante-11-nudos-terraza-nordes
PLATEA MADRID Guidebooks often describe Platea Madrid as a food hall, but that description doesn't even begin to cover the experience, which brings together six Michelin-starred eateries in the same place. The first thing you'll notice is the space—a movie theater that's been completely renovated to create mezzanine-style platforms littered with tables and chairs (all within view of the stage itself, which remains intact and often hosts live musical performances). Each mezzanine offers several dining options, from tapas to pizza to seafood, supplemented by bars offering cocktails and wines for pairing. Calle de Goya, 5, 7; plateamadrid.com
TUK TUK Owned by two ex-pats, Tuk Tuk serves Asian street food that draws inspiration primarily from Bangkok, Saigon, and Hong Kong. Order the green curry, coconut rice, and chicken skewers. It's an excellent option for takeout, and vegetarians will appreciate the variety of options, too. There's a second location in the Chueca district. tuktukstreetfood.es
O’PAZO Opened in 1969, O'pazo was one of the first restaurants in Madrid to be awarded a Michelin star—the old-school seafood spot is actually still run by children of the original founder, Evaristo García. The interior, fresh off a remodel, captures everything that's wonderful about Madrid; the sleek, updated furnishings and soothing wood paneling are a perfect juxtaposition to the open kitchen, where ham hocks hang from the ceiling and the days' catch of seafood and shellfish is displayed on ice. C. de la Reina Mercedes, 20; opazo.es
EL PESCADOR Opened in 1975, El Pescador has a similar trajectory to nearby O'Pazo—both old-guard restaurants that pioneered the idea of serving fish so fresh that it didn't even need sauce, they've each stayed relevant with frequent renovations. At El Pescador, in particular, the interior has the potential to fool visitors that don't know the restaurant's historic pedigree—a clean concrete bar with stainless steel stools marks the entry to the restaurant, which is separated from the rest of the airy, modern restaurant by sheer chainlink curtains. As for the menu, you'll find minimally-treated fish and shellfish, served fresh and typically caught that morning. The shareable seafood platters are perfect for a big group. C. de José Ortega y Gasset, 75; marisqueriaelpescador.net
PANIC BAKERY Unlike other European cities, Madrid didn't boast much of a bread scene until graphic designer-turned bread baker Javier Marco came along with his artisanal sourdough and opened Panic in 2012. To this day, he sells six basic loaves, for which people continue to line up around the block, complemented by some incredible cakes baked by HomeCake. Sandwiches (bocatas) are also served here, along with traditional pan con tomate. Make sure to ask about their occasional bread baking workshops. C. del Conde Duque, 13
MERCADO DE LA PAZ A beautifully restored 140-year-old market that still retains its old-school, no-fuss neighborhood flavor. You'll find stall after stall of gourmet, fresh ingredients for home cooking plus a smattering of great prepared food stands. In fact, some of the city's best chefs come here in their spare time. Don't miss Casa Dani with its traditional, daily-changing tapas menu. Cl. de Ayala, 28B; mercadodelapaz.com
QUESERIA CULTIVO While Panic bakery next door brings artisanal bread into focus, the Queseria is all about artisanal cheeses from Spain and beyond. In their vast and heavenly vault you'll find a surprising variety of national cheeses across the spectrum, along with the very best of the rest of Europe. The shop is the work of three pioneering cheese producers coming together to raise awareness of their craft in Madrid. Not only do they bring rare regional varieties here, they also teach classes on everything from cheese-making to photography. queseriacultivo.com
MERCADO DE SAN MIGUEL As the last of the 19th-century iron markets in Madrid, this beautifully preserved monument operates just as it has for almost two centuries. Because it's such a fixture on the scene for both foodies and tourists, the prices at some of the stands are a little higher than at other local markets, but the quality and variety is pretty stunning. You'll find all the classic Spanish pantry necessities along with international gourmet goods, from fresh pasta to Russian caviar. If you don't mind the crowds, the best day to head here is Sunday, when locals head to the tapas stalls after a day strolling the nearby Rastro flea market. Pl. de San Miguel; mercadodesanmiguel.es
EMBASSY Opened in 1931 by French émigré Margarita Kearney Taylor, this old-school café brought the concept of British high tea to Madrid. For almost a century, this is where the city's hoi polloi gathered along with diplomats from the nearby embassies the café gets its name from. It was also apparently a meeting place for Allied spies during the war. Though Margarita is long gone, her shop remains as ladylike as ever with velvet cushions and touches of chinoiserie throughout. While there's a restaurant downstairs, the real highlight is the tea salon upstairs where tea, coffee, and Spanish hot chocolate are served with a selection of old-fashioned pastries. C. de Blanca de Castilla, 5; embassy.es
CLUB MATADOR Occupying a historic apartment in the swanky Salamanca neighborhood, this members-only club is Madrid's version of Soho House. Started by the creative team behind the Matador magazine, it offers all of the amenities you'd expect from a private club, including cultural events, live music, art exhibitions, a screening room, and a well-curated cultural program with lectures and workshops. The restaurant menu focuses on traditional Spanish cuisine while the bar has an ambitious craft cocktail program, bringing in mixologists and guest bartenders from all over Europe. Take your cocktail into the cozy library, which is stocked with books and magazines from the noir genre. C. de Jorge Juan, 5; clubmatador.com
BAR COCK Opened in 1921 in a former brothel, Bar Cock is one of the oldest in the city. Historically, it has been a hangout for Madrid's creatives, and a late-night spot for everyone from Frank Sinatra to Pedro Almodóvar to Francis Bacon, who according to bar legend came here for his final martini. C. de la Reina, 16
LOLINA This tiny bar is cluttered with vintage furniture (each table is surrounded by eclectic, mismatched chairs) set in front of a backdrop of '60s-style wallpaper. They actually serve food and cocktails all day, but we like it best for drinks in the evening, when the relaxed vibe lends itself nicely to snuggling up on one of the cozy leather couches in the back. C. del Espíritu Santo, 9; lolinacafe.com
D STAGE Two-Michelin-star winning D-STAgE serves guests 12-to-17 course meals of haute cuisine in its brick-exposed dining room. C. de Regueros, 8, 2; dstageconcept.com
LA DUQUESITA A chic pasteleria with delicous palmares cookies, ideal for breakfast or a snack. C. de Fernando VI, 2; laduquesita.es
FICUS BAR A fashionable locale serving cocktails in a white-walled space with greenery, a retail shop, and stylish decor. C. de Santo Tomé, 8; ficusbar.com
LA MALLORQUINA A must stop in the Puerta del Sol for ice cream, cakes, violet sweets & other traditional Madrid confections in a landmark cafe from 1894. They also have a new Salamanca locale. Prta del Sol, 8; pastelerialamallorquina.es
MACERA The local spot for craft gin cocktails. C. de San Mateo, 21; maceradrinks.com
CASA FIDEL Casa Fidel serves simple, traditional Spanish classics using local, high-quality vegetables, meat, fish, and fruit. As close to a home-cooked meal as can find in Madrid. C. de El Escorial, 6
EL RINCÓN Similar to Casa Fidel, Spanish home cooking at its best. There are only a few tables and three menu options including a fish of the day. Calle de Don Ramón de la Cruz, 88; elrincondejaen.com
LA ARDOSA Dip under the iconic bar to grab a seat in the main dining area. Sip on a glass of Vermouth poured from the tap and nibble on a pincho or slice of tortilla and a bowl of Salmorejo, the creamier cousin of gazpacho. C. de Colón, 13; grupoardosa.es/la-ardosa
CASA MACARENO Casa Macareno is the kind of address that you prefer to keep to yourself and not see mentioned in the guides: a brasserie and tapas bar both very classic and very fashionable, the setting perfect for a cold beer with a few olives or a four-course dinner. Two locals Julián Lara and Sergio Ochoa, took over this historic establishment in 2016 and kept as many elements as possible of the original wine bar and restaurant, which opened in 1920. The century-old facade has remained intact, with the cheerfully colored tiles typical of old Madrid taverns. The suckling pig is a star - although the waiters, on the other hand, prefer the pork cheek. Have a glass or two drawn from the fine selection of house wines, and finish with a vermouth or gin and tonic. A classic meal in a classically Spanish setting. C. de San Vicente Ferrer, 44; casamacareno.com
SALMON GURU
On Friday and Saturday evenings, long lines form on Calle Echegaray to enter and experience the cocktails designed by the famous bartender Diego Cabrera. Book seats in front of the preparation table to closely observe the “cocktail sessions” of Diego Cabrera and his team, who invent new drinks according to their inspiration. The decor designed by the studio Madrid in Love is also an attraction in itself. It evokes a diffuse dream, that of a New York bar from the 1960s, with leopard-print lampshades and animal skulls adorning a pretty polished wood living room. Calle de Echegaray, 21; salmonguru.es
PUM PUM CAFE After a revitalization campaign, the Lavapiés neighborhood has been transformed into one of Madrid’s hippest neighborhoods. Opened in a small red-brick atelier, Pum Pum Café is popular with bohemian-inflected locals, who flock here on weekends for brunch. C. de Tribulete, 6; pumpumcafe.com
EL IMPARCIAL A restaurant, bar, and concept shop in an elegant two-story manor house that once held the offices of the newspaper “El Imparcial.” C. del Duque de Alba, 4; elimparcialmadrid.com
CAFE COMERCIAL Opened for the first time in 1887 and renovated in 2017, serving famous churros con chocolate. Gta. de Bilbao, 7; cafecomercialmadrid.com
CHOCOLATERÍA SAN GINÉS Churros con chocolate are served from the green wood-paneled interior of this cafe from 1884. Pasadizo de San Ginés, 5; chocolateriasangines.com
LA CHURRERÍA MADRID 1883 The café holds the holy honor of being the oldest churrería in this capital city. Order a batch of warm churros and dip them in their signature thick hot chocolate. C. del Espíritu Santo, 8; churreriamadrid1883.es
LA VENENCIA A sepia-toned sherry bar frequented by Hemingway that has hardly changed in 70 years. Tipping and taking photos are still strictly forbidden — remnants of the bar’s time as a Republican haunt during the Spanish Civil War — and the only drink on offer is sherry: exquisite, honey-hued, and poured from hulking oakwood casks, same as it ever was. Calle de Echegaray, 7; lavenencia.com
CELSO Y MANOLO A modern tapas bar with a preserved 1950s-era bar and floor tiles, and menu featuring reworked classics like grilled organic Cantabrian veal ribs with chimichurri or the chuletón de tomate, a luscious layering of avocado, mango, papaya, olive oil and fresh herbs on a half heirloom tomato. 28004, C. de la Libertad, 1; https://celsoymanolo.es/
MISIÓN CAFE A Scandinavian-inspired coffee shop serves light dishes, including spicy chickpeas on toast with a dollop of sour cream. C. de los Reyes, 5; mision.cafe
TIPOS INFAMES Sip wine while you browse books at this wine shop and independent bookstore. C. de San Joaquín, 3; tiposinfames.com
1862 DRY BAR The most revered cocktail bar in Malasaña with the best gin and tonics. C. del Pez, 27.
AARDE An airy, upscale eatery offering a global menu with an African twist, plus cocktails & terrace seating. Pl. de la Independencia, 10; aarde.es
CRISTINA ORIA A restaurant by Chef Cristina Oria and a home design store in one in Salamanca. cristinaoria.com
BIBO DANI GARCIA The Madrid outpost of Chef Dani Garcia’s hospitality Group. Located on the “Paseo de la Castellana” with 7000 light bulbs covering its walls replicating the lighting of the Malaga Fair. The theme of traveling is reflected in the large hot air balloon that hangs over the bar and in the international menu. P.º de la Castellana, 52; grupodanigarcia.com
NUMA POMPILIO RISTORANTE An upscale Italian restaurant with a heated courtyard & a long menu of pasta, fish & meat dishes. C. de Velázquez, 18; restaurantenuma.com
MAMA FRAMBOISE The place for French and German pastries in Madrid. Calle Fernando VI 23
BAR TOMATE Located in Salamanca, this neighborhood spot is open from 8:30 in the morning, serving tapas, light breakfast, and excellent coffee, until midnight, when a DJ and an excellent cocktail menu make it one of the neighborhoods more well-attended bars. While the classic tapas are always a good choice, they're also known for wood-fired pizzas. C. de Fernando el Santo, 26; grupotragaluz.com/restaurante/bar-tomate
TONI2 Convivial stop with couches, a curved bar, and a big treble clef, hosting piano singalongs. Calle del Almte, 9; toni2.es
AZOTEA DEL CÍRCULO DE BELLAS ARTES Formerly known as Tartan, Azotea Circulo del Bellas Artes is a rooftop bar located on top of the Circulo de Bellas Artes (the Fine Arts Building). Make a dinner reservation and travel up to the top for the opportunity to see panoramic views of the city— perfect for sunset. Azotea del Círculo de Bellas Artes de Madrid, C. del Marqués de Casa Riera, 2; azoteadelcirculo.com
BALBISIANA An artisanal cafe and pastry shop with beautiful, handmade cakes featuring fruit and flowers. balbisiana.com
SALA DE DESPIECE Upscale tapas in a buzzy bar styled like a market butcher shop, with bench & counter seating. C/ de Ponzano, 11; saladedespiece.com
BARRUTIA Y EL NUEVE Intimate, comfy space offering traditional, homestyle recipes & a take-out option. Calle de Sta. Teresa, 9; tabernabarrutiayel9
EL BAJIO Founded by renowned Mexican Chef Carmen “Titita” Ramirez Degollado, this is the first outpost of El Bajio outside of Mexico. The family also operates Casa Carmen in New York City. C. de El Españoleto, 10, Chamberí, 28010; restauranteelbajio.es
MYKA A frozen greek yogurt shop with modern, airy decor. The perfect respite after eating heaving Spanish food! C. de José Ortega y Gasset, 44, Salamanca
CHARRUA Uruguayan steakhouse with an extensive wine list in a polished, rustic-chic setting. C. del Conde de Xiquena, 4, Centro; charruamadrid.com
ART | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
MUSEO DEL PRADO Nearly 200 years old, this is one of the best museums in Spain—if not the world—reflecting the tastes (and astonishing wealth) of the Spanish court through the centuries. The collection dates back to the 16th century and Spain's world dominance at the time shows with the sheer value of many of its holdings, including major pieces by Titian, Fra Angelico, Velázquez, and El Greco. C. de Ruiz de Alarcón, 23; museodelprado.es
BUEN RETIRO A royal retreat until the 19th-century, the city's main park is dotted with evidence of its princely origins, whether it's the Paseo de la Argentina with its flank of royal statues, the Palacio de Cristal, a former greenhouse for rare species from the Philippines (now an art space curated by the Reina Sofía), or the 18th-century Neoclassical observatory. Today it's simply where locals gravitate for a dose of the outdoors. The park bustles with visitors year-round and offers numerous activities, thanks to outdoor Flamenco concerts, new exhibits, boat rides on the man-made Estanque lake, and the rose garden. esmadrid.com/informacion-turistica/parque-del-retiro
MUSEO THYSSEN-BORNEMISZA The collection of works housed in this 18th-century palace represent the lifetime passion of Swiss collector Heinrich Thyssen-Bornemisza and his Spanish wife Carmen. While Heinrich and his German father August focused on everything from the Gothic period to major Dutch works of the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries, Carmen's collection brings in significant Modern American, Expressionist, and Impressionist works, making the museum a wonderful survey of art through the centuries—certainly the most complete in Spain. Though it's now owned by the Spanish state, it still retains the feel of a private family collection with artwork displayed on salmon pink walls, as dictated by Carmen herself. P.º del Prado, 8; museothyssen.org
CENTRO DE ARTE REINA SOFIA The permanent collection includes works by modern Spanish masters like Picasso, including his Guernica as well as works by Miró, Dalí, Eduardo Chillida, and Antoni Tàpies. The Reina Sofía is also a major contemporary art institution both within and outside its Jean Nouvel-designed walls. Head to the museum for its contextualized permanent collection of Spanish and international masters, and then go to the Parque del Retiro to check out the exhibitions at the Palacio de Cristal and Palacio de Velázquez. C. de Sta. Isabel, 52; museoreinasofia.es
MUSEO SOROLLO The Museum Sorolla features work by the artist Joaquín Sorolla, as well as by members of his family such as his daughter Elena. The building was originally the artist's house and was converted into a museum after the death of his widow. P.º del Gral. Martínez Campos, 37; culturaydeporte.gob.es/msorolla
GALERIA DE LAS COLECCIONES REALES Opened in 2023, this new museum is located beside the Royal Palace of Madrid. The building is dug out of rock, from the Campo del Moro gardens to the Armería square. Its aim is to display the richness, excellence and diversity of the Royal Collections as well as serve as a showcase for all the Royal Sites. C. de Bailén, s/n, Centro, 28013; galeriadelascoleccionesreales.es
CASA DE CAMPO Casa de Campo translates to country home, and did indeed once house the royal hunting lodge—in fact, you can still spot deer and rabbits. While it's been engulfed by the city, it still feels much like an escape, and an enormous one at that: There are winding bike trails, a boating lake, Madrid's zoo and aquarium, along with a massive, rollercoaster-laden amusement park. And, If you take the cableway in, you'll also benefit from some of the best views of Madrid down below. P.º de la Prta del Ángel, 1; madrid.es/portales/munimadrid/es/Inicio/El-Ayuntamiento/Parques-y-jardines/Patrimonio-Verde/Parques-en-Madrid/Parque-de-la-Casa-de-Campo
CINE DORE This iconic movie theater is the home of the Spanish national film archive, which makes it a good spot to catch art house films. It also houses a pretty comprehensive shop for film nerds, though even non-filmophiles will appreciate the restored, Art Nouveau architectural details, evidenced by the old-fashioned café, red velvet theater interiors, and incredibly detailed ceilings. C. de Sta. Isabel, 3; culturaydeporte.gob.es
MADRID RIO A city redevelopment project of gargantuan proportions, this 10km stretch of green space along the city's Manzanares riverbank replaces the former M-30 freeway, which now runs underground. Its completion in 2011 brought local Madrileños back to the riverbed with a system of restored bridge monuments, new footbridges, or Cáscaras, an urban beach for sunbathers, 17 new playgrounds, and kayak docks. It also stitched neighborhoods like Arganzuela, Carabanchel, and La Latina—once dissected by the city's traffic—back together, making them all completely walkable. Rent a bike or stroll the riverbank to check out the park's features, such as the fruit tree arboretum recreating that of the formal royal palace, or the pine walk which is almost directly above the now-submerged M-30. All of this is the work of an impressive, 4-year collaboration between the Dutch firm West8 and Madrid's own MRIO. esmadrid.com/en/tourist-information/madrid-rio-park
REAL ACADEMIA DE BELLAS ARTES DE SAN FERNANDO The site of Spain's main art academy for centuries is today a pretty comprehensive museum for anyone interested in Spanish art history. It's often overlooked in favor of the much splashier Prado, which makes a visit here all the quieter and more enjoyable. Not only do its vast holdings include much of the artwork made during its time as an academy, including several important paintings and etchings by Goya, it's also been the benefactor of several major collections, including that of the Jesuits when they were expelled by the monarchy. This is a particularly notable destination for those interested in religious art history from the Renaissance on. C. de Alcalá, 13; realacademiabellasartessanfernando.com
MATADERO A slaughterhouse for most of the 20th century (hence the name), the Matadero today is a bustling hub for multitudinous arts pursuits. Drop by on any given day for an awe-inspiring spectrum of cultural activity: take a urban cycling course, catch a documentary at the Cineteca movie complex, check out the latest design show at the Central de Diseño, catch a concert at the Nave 16, or take the kids to an experimental reading session at the Casa del Lector. Along with presenting the latest in contemporary art and culture, the Matadero is also a hub for creatives, offering workspaces and residencies across a variety of disciplines. Pl. de Legazpi, 8; mataderomadrid.org
CAIXAFORUM The Caixa is a necessary contemporary counterpart to the Prado, Reina Sofía, and Thyssen museums. In high contrast to the centuries-old palaces those institutions inhabit, the contemporary collections here are housed in an industrial warehouse that's been reinterpreted by Herzog and de Meuron. Fittingly, you can expect cutting-edge exhibitions of pieces from the last 30 years. Like the now-iconic vertical garden at its entrance, the museum literally breathes fresh air into the neighborhood dominated by the old-guard art institutions. P.º del Prado, 36; caixaforum.org
MUSEO CERRALBO The Marquis of Cerralbo lived in this palace in the 19th and 20th centuries and designed everything from the staircase to the displays, to the gardens he sketched out himself. Today his absolutely over-the-top vision (he always hoped it would become a museum) remains faithfully intact complete with his collection of masterpieces by Spanish greats like El Greco and Zúrbaran, early photography, and Japanese armor from the Edo period. C. de Ventura Rodríguez, 17; culturaydeporte.gob.es
MUSEO LÁZARO GALDIANO Off the beaten path from the so-called Golden Triangle comprised of the Thyssen, El Prado, and the Reina Sofia, this private collection is well worth the side trip. Beyond the individual pieces, which include decorative art over the centuries along with several works by Goya, Lucas Cranach, Velázquez, and the like, it's the way this collection, amassed by banker, publisher, and collector José Lázaro Galdiano himself, is displayed in his former mansion. While it's not a house museum per se, the collections are grouped in a way that has the feel of an old stately mansion mixed with a cabinet of curiosities. Galdiano is well-loved in Spain for having bought back many important Spanish artworks that were almost lost during the Spanish Civil War. C. de Serrano, 122; museolazarogaldiano.es
BOA MISTURA Madrid is renowned for her museums and despite the city’s classical overtones, street art—which oftentimes acts as visual commentary of the civic, political, and cultural overtones of a society—is alive and well with Boa Mistura—a multidisciplinary art collective. Made up of five creatives—friends since their teens when they would graffiti their neighborhood—their art, so decidedly in the public realm is intended to make a statement, to be community building, and to disrupt the notion that graffiti is vandalism. A guide can steward you through many of their large-scale murals that dot the city. More of their work is to be found in places as disparate as the favelas of Brazil and the Venice Biennale. boamistura.com
MUSEUM OF ROMANTICISM Tucked into a pink, 18-century mansion, the Museum of Romanticism sheds light on the day-to-day life of Madrid’s high bourgeoisie during the Romantic period. It’s a fitting way to start a visit to Salesas, giving you context for the lives that unfolded in the barrio’s now repurposed mansions during their heyday. Locals love its courtyard garden, which serves as a calm, cool respite from the beautiful chaos of the neighborhood. C. de San Mateo, 13; culturaydeporte.gob.es/mromanticismo
CHURCH OF SANTA BÁRBARA Presididing over Plaza de las Salesas next to the former Salesas Reales Convent. Both landmarks were also built during the 18th-century in the neo-classical style; the latter now serves as the Tribunal Supremo, the highest court in Spain. Walk into the church and around to the Plaza Ville de París to take in one of Madrid’s most beautiful (and often-overlooked) sights before popping out at Plaza de Colón. Calle del Gral. Castaños, 2; parroquiadesantabarbara.es
FUNDACIÓN MAPFRE A permanent collection of works from Surrealist artist Joan Miró anchor rotating exhibitions that connect Spanish art to wider cultural and artistic movements. P.º de Recoletos, 23; fundacionmapfre.org
CENTRO CULTURAL FLAMENCO A museum that also puts on mesmerizing flamenco shows in a small theater every evening. C. del Conde de Xiquena, 6; flamencocultural.com
PARQUE EL CAPRICHO A park on the outskirts of Madrid with a privately-owned palace by the Duchess of Osuna. Explore the labyrinth-like garden. P.º de la Alameda de Osuna, 25; madrid.es
TORRES BLANCAS
A mixed-use concrete building in Madrid, Spain designed in 1961 by Spanish architect, Francisco Javier Sáenz de Oiza. The structure is a noted example of Spanish Organicism. Spanish industrialist Juan Huarte commissioned the project which initially included two residential towers. Avenida de América, 37
GALERIA ALVARO ALCÁZAR A small gallery that represents international artists, especially sculptors. C. de Ferrer del Río, 5; galeriaalvaroalcazar.com
LA CASA ENCENDIDA Exhibitions, concerts, and talks are hosted in this grand early-20th-century Neo-Mudéjar building. Rda. de Valencia, 2; lacasaencendida.es
LA TABACALERA DE LAVAPIÉS A mixed-use cultural space and social center in a derelict multilevel tobacco factory. Today, the mural-splashed structure houses a bar, library, kitchen, community garden, and patio space. latabacalera.net
CORRAL DE LA MORERÍA Nightly flamenco performances and Spanish tapas are served at this Madrid institution. C. de la Moreria, 17; corraldelamoreria.com
REAL MADRID Support Madrid’s local team, the Real Madrid Club de Fútbol commonly known as Real Madrid, by attending a soccer match at the Santiago Bernabéu Stadium, the second-largest stadium in Spain. realmadrid.com
FUNDACION JUAN MARCH This private foundation was founded in the ’50s by Juan March, Spain’s richest man at the time, and also has spaces in Palma and Cuenca that host talks, performances, and exhibitions. It was recommended to me by a friend and the architecture of the building is a draw itself—in Madrid designed in the ’70s by architect José Luis Picardo in the Salamanca district—and has a few big garden sculptures I loved. While there’s no heavy hitter artists inside, it’s more about the architecture of the place and the curatorial vision. I enjoyed an exhibit there about the Pre-Columbian influences on modernism. Calle de Castelló, 77, Salamanca, 28006; https://www.march.es/es
SHOP
EL RASTRO Spain’s largest flea market has been unfurling across La Latina neighborhood for half a millennium. Named for the trail of blood left by slaughtered cattle on the way to the tanneries, the teeming market offers everything from vintage furs and antiques to mismatched silverware, craft items, hand-me-down curios, synthetic flamenco frocks, and midcentury modern furniture. hesmadrid.com/en/shopping/el-rastro
BERENIS The original location of this shop is in El Rastro neighborhood, with all the vintage design dealers, but if you ask the owner about the lesser-known second location, they’ll take you across the street, down an unsuspecting hallway and into a massive glass atrium filled with the most tasteful curation of vintage furniture and art among their own contemporary designs. Endlessly inspiring. You may catch them in the process: during my last visit, they were compiling a range of collected vintage tiles to assemble flooring patterns for a local hotelier. C/ de la Ribera de Curtidores, 29, Centro, 28005
LA FABRICA This sprawling multi-functional space sits in the heart of Madrid’s cultural center and makes for the perfect place to catch your breath from hours of museum hopping. After a Mediterranean-inflected lunch at the modern, light-filled café (while you’re there, ask to see the dinner menu and make a reservation on the spot if the pasta and hearty fish dishes appeal), stop by the photography-only exhibition space and supporting bookstore. Finish by picking up a bottle of a Spanish red, artisan-crafted leather clutch, or a piece of artisan-made silver jewelry at the meticulously curated concept shop supporting local design talent. 450 Massachusetts Ave; lafabricacentral.com
ANTIGUA CASA CRESPO A famed four-generation espadrille shop with rows of wooden cubbies packed to the rafters with traditional rope-soled, canvas espadrilles (or alpargatas, as they’re known to the locals) in every conceivable color and silhouette. Calle del Divino Pastor, 29; antiguacasacrespo.com
CASTAÑER The Castañer family has been reinventing the espadrille since 1927. In the late ‘60s, the brand gained prominence after creating the first jute-soled wedge for Yves Saint Laurent – an iconic summer style. Calle de Claudio Coello, 51; castaner.com
FLABELUS Venetian slippers inspired in the Italian design of the furlane, yet made in Spain using traditional espadrille techniques. C. de Hermosilla, 35; flabelus.com
OLD JEFFREY Men’s clothing store, inspired by travel— surfing and safari to be exact. C. de Velázquez, 19; oldjeffrey.com
KIKEKELLER Malasaña has been a neighborhood on the rise for a while now, due in large part to the presence of hybrid operations like Kikekeller. Part retail store, part art gallery, part bar, it's buzzing from early in the morning until late into the night. Owners Kike and Celia are constantly changing around the shop, bringing new offerings into the retail space, rearranging the furniture, and switching out the art exhibitions, so no two visits are the same. kikekeller.com
FARMACIA DELEUZE ISASI Holding court in the same stunning Baroque space since the 1870s, this fully functioning pharmacy is one of the few places in the city to see the ornate gilded moldings, grand chandeliers, and painted ceilings of the time in person—not to mention, filling a prescription or stocking up on over-the-counter gems you can only find in a European drugstore. C. de San Bernardo, 39
LOEWE What started out as a small artisan-run leather goods manufacturer in the 1840’s has morphed into a universally adored, 100+ stores strong luxury brand. Staying true to its heritage, the Madrid flagship is still the heart and soul of the brand: In addition to the signature candy-colored purses and wallets, come here for shoes, jewelry, scarves, ready-to-wear, and more, all donning the iconic Loewe logo. Just down the street, the Gran Via shop often hosts pop-up art exhibits and limited edition collections. C. de Serrano, 34; loewe.com
RUGHARA It’s impossible to talk about indie furniture/décor/gallery hybrid Casa Quiroga, without mentioning its big sister, Rughara, as the two are actually an extension of each other, both physically and conceptually. Rughara’s particular brand of quirky, mix-and-match merchandising, which incorporates racks of clothing, themed displays of home accessories, and a curated assortment of vintage furniture proved to be so popular with the local artsy types that an expansion into the neighboring storefront was inevitable. The resulting space serves as a showroom for more vintage wares, local designer goods, and the occasional performance and meeting space for the aforementioned artsy types. C. de Sta. Feliciana, 9; rughara.com
LA CENTRAL This handsome bookshop occupies a stately renovated townhouse, so the architecture is an elegant (if fittingly mismatched) mix of Baroque arches and streamlined modern walls and skylights that span three levels in addition to a basement-level event space. The adorable children's section, for example, occupies the former chapel and boasts a ceiling complete with gold-trimmed domes painted with images of angels and cherubs. The entire shop is always buzzing thanks to a cozy cafe, a rooftop bar (on Thursdays you're likely to find a band performing live music), and a packed schedule of events that brings in writers and lecturers from all over Europe. lacentral.com
MALABABA For the kinds of unique accessories you always want to bring back from a trip abroad, head to one of Malababa's two locations (one in Salamanca and one in Chueca). Designer Ana Carrasco produces her entire line of bags, jewelry, and shoes in Spain, employing local artisans for every step of the process, from tanning the leather to sewing the bags. Expect a range of styles, from delicate beaded jewelry to chunky leather boots to clutches adorned with bold geodesic clasps. malababa.com
MASSCOB Spanish designer couple Marga Massanet and Jacobo Cobián only have two retail stores; in addition to the Madrid shop, you can find them in their beachy hometown of La Coruña along the Northern coast. Both outposts are done in modern, streamlined, warm wood interiors with light fixtures that look like glowing orbs descending from the ceiling. And that's before you've even begun to look through the racks of the quintessentially Spanish women's dresses and separates. Expect flowy, loose shapes made in natural-feeling linens and vintage patterns, all inspired by La Coruña's beachy, tanned aesthetic and the laid-back lifestyle that goes with it. C. de Puigcerda, 2; masscob.com
PANTA RHEI This crowded bookshop specializes in the visual arts—you can rely on them to carry publications from recent exhibitions or monographs from living artists, shelved alongside books on graphic design, marketing, art, and fashion. The emphasis on visuals is well complemented by the in-house gallery, which shows different works by Spanish illustrators every few months. C. de Hernán Cortés, 7; panta-rhei.es
PEZ Chueca hasn't always been the amazing shopping district it is today—it was thanks to pioneers like Patricia Salas and Beatriz Mezquíriz, who opened their destination shop here in 2004, that the area became such a hotbed of fashion and culture. Pez specializes in splurge-worthy items from some of Europe's best designers, showcasing elegant shoes from Italy, forward-thinking staples from Belgium, and the best representatives of their native Spain. The interior, which is clean and white save for vintage wooden farm tables and exposed wooden beams in the ceiling, is an appropriate backdrop for the spot-on edit. Some of the best souvenirs, though, are from Cacao Sampaka, home to the barrio’s finest chocolate truffles. With unlikely flavors like olive oil, saffron and black truffle, these sweet treats are worth sneaking into your suitcase. C. de Regueros, 15; pez-pez.es
ABANUC A beautiful perfumery housed in a narrow former book store. Pl. de las Salesas, 10; abanuc.com
LA STUDIO Filled with unique pieces of furniture, lamps, and antiques. Calle de Castelló, 8; lastudio.es
LA EUROPEA An antique store with unique, rustic furniture. It’s very well selected. It’s a bit more exclusive; what you find there is quite different. I bought three African lamps made of wicker for my personal garden porch. C. de S. Gregorio, 17; laeuropea.es
MINI This boutique carries Nordic brands like Acne Studios as well as some Danish and Belgian labels. minishopmadrid.com
FLORES CARLOS DE TROYA A petit flower shop offering flowers of the day and bouquets made to order by the florist. Calle de Diego de León, 61
ULISSES MERIDA
A former stylist for DelPozo and Creative Director of Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, Merida opened his namesake flagship boutique and workshop, which also offers a tailoring service for its private clients, as well as a capsule collection of wedding dresses. The concrete floor space, located in the center of Madrid, is a converted garage on three floors, and allows Ulises to host exhibitions, artistic installations or other cultural events. ulisesmerida.com
ES FASCINANTE A boutique and curated platform celebrating slow fashion and art made in Spain. C. del Conde de Aranda, 22, bajo derecha; es-fascinante.com
TADO A tiny ceramics shop run by a French woman who fell in love with Madrid. It’s a hidden gem, void of any tourists, with a beautifully curated mix of objects; you can’t help but walk in and begin assembling a pile to take home with you. The pieces are sourced from all over the world and reasonably valued. And the owner wraps everything with love, writing names on each tag so you can learn more about the artists. Calle de Echegaray, 31, Centro, 28014
TRISTAN DOMECQ CASA Step into the designer’s world, and you just may see him—his home store offers a mix of his own collection and vintage pieces, and his design firm’s office sits right above. My favorite spotting was a vintage Italian rattan side chair. Calle de Castelló, 59, Salamanca; tristandomecq.com/casa
SPORTIVO This is the second, brand-new location of an existing menswear boutique. Display tables are suspended in midair by wires, with exposed concrete and architectural columns; the design of the shop is worth a visit itself. They offer labels like A Kind of Guise and President’s—it’s like a Spanish Barneys. C. del Conde Duque, 20, Centro, 28015; sportivostore.com
IKB 191 The Spanish have a way of utilizing a blank canvas—crisp white walls and ivory upholstery—to envelop splashes of sumptuous color within. This shop sells a mix of mid-century furniture, brass lighting and ceramic objects. C. del Barquillo, 11, Centro, 28004; ikb191.es
MARIA DE LA ORDEN Spanish socialite Maria de la Orden’s unique and fashionable clothing boutique. Cl. de Ayala, 46, Salamanca, 28001; mariadelaorden.com
SPA | WELLNESS
HAMMAM AL ANDALUS Housed in an excavated cellar, this Turkish-style hammam occupies a candlelit, beautifully restored space. Work your way through a series of hot and cold baths before settling in for the signature Kessa-glove scrub and massage combination treatment. The communal baths and tea room are unisex, so you’re welcome to relax with your significant other. C. de Atocha, 14; madrid.hammamalandalus.com
TRACY ANDERSON METHOD The famous American fitness instructor opened her first studio outside of the United States in the renovated LaMarca building in Madrid’s Barrio de Justicia neighborhood. Like Anderson’s other state-of-the-art studios, the Spanish iteration includes the Iso-Kinetic bands, the Super G floor, and the signature humidity familiar to regulars as well as a tight edit of fitness apparel and accessories. C. de Fernando VI, 10, Local 1; tracyanderson.com
Text: Veronica H. Speck Photo: Slim Aarons / Getty Images