Megève
“What I love about the Alps is après-ski,” says Daniel Boulud, the New York–based chef who grew up in nearby Lyon. “Sitting in front of a fireplace, eating raclette and charcuterie, and finishing with a génépi, the strong, disgustingly delicious pine-needle alcohol that’s typical of the Savoie.”
Megève is a ski resort village in the Alps of southeastern France, in the Mont Blanc massif. It offers downhill runs, snow parks, and cross-country trails, with links to La Giettaz. The area features rustic-chic chalets, upmarket hotels, and designer boutiques. Its pedestrian center has cobbled medieval streets. In summer, trails lead through green forests and meadows, and up to Mont d’Arbois for panoramic views.
The resort town has the Rothschilds to thank for turning it into a glamorous international retreat. During World War I, Noémie de Rothschild headed to the Swiss village of St. Moritz for a break from wartime Paris, but experiencing discrimination, she decided to create her own French ski resort in Megève in1924, which is now Les Chalets du Mont d'Arbois.
“Everybody knew one another—it was like a club,” Paris-born, New York-based interior designer Robert Couturier recalls of his youth in Megève. “My grandmother had a chalet, and I spent all my Christmas and Easter holidays there until I was 25. We learned how to ski, we took skating lessons, and we had Chocolat Viennois at Madame Vouillon, the best pastry shop in town. The rhythm of life there was slow and luxurious.”
STAY
COEUR DE MEGÈVE As the name implies, this new hotel is located in the heart of the village, with decor by Sybille de Margerie and a spa by Tata Harper. The traditional Alpine restaurant uses only local ingredients, and the best part is that it is within walking distance of the slopes!
FOUR SEASONS MEGÈVE The Four Seasons offers two properties in Megève: the Four Seasons Hotel on the top of Mont d’Arbois and Les Chalets at the bottom.
FLOCONS DE SEL This Relais & Châteaux alpine property nestled in the mountains is operated by Kristine & Emmanuel Renaut with a 3 Michelin Star restaurant.
LES FERMES DE MARIE Set in a cluster of farmhouses on a hillside, this beautiful hotel offers views of Mont Blanc, but we come for the luxurious spa complete with saunas, a hammam, an indoor pool, and a hot tub.
HÔTEL LE FER À CHEVAL A 5-star hotel with two restaurants & a spa, conveniently located only 350 meters from the Chamois gondola lift in the village center.
ALPAGA HÔTELS & CHALETS A member of La Collection HEH (Les Hôtels d'en Haut), which includes properties in Val Thorens, Courcheval, Saint Raphaël, Lourmarin, and Bonnieux. Alpaga offers a modern, contemporary take on alpine style with airy, chic rooms surrounded by the mountains.
LE CHALET BLANC A large chalet just a few steps from the Place du Village with close proximity to the ice skating rink.
DINE | DRINK
L’ALPETTE The perfect place for indulging in the après-ski Savoyard specialty, Tartiflette, a gratin of local Reblochon cheese, ham, and potatoes.
LA TABLE DU TRAPPEUR A cozy, traditional restaurant inside the Chalet Saint George with trapping decor bedecking the wooden walls.
LA DAME DE PIC- LE 1920 Chef Anne Sophie Pic’s restaurant within the Four Seasons Hotel.
LES ENFANTS TERRIBLES The restaurant inside L'Hôtel Mont-Blanc lures you in thanks to a mural painting by Jean Cocteau, whose novel Les Enfants Terribles gave the restaurant its namesake. The highlight of the menu is a European interpretation of the lobster roll, an East Coast U.S, specialty.
L'IDÈAL 1850 The wine list at this casual lunch spot on the slopes highlights the Compagnie Vinicole Edmond de Rothschild Heritage’s estates.
LES MANDARINES The oldest high-altitude restaurant in France makes for the perfect spot for lunch on the slopes with a scenic view.
LA RAVIÈRE Hard to find as it is tucked away in the trees, but worth the journey for the delicious Alsatian food, including Tarte Flambee.
LE VIEUX MEGÈVE A traditional Savoyard restaurant with specialties including fondue, raclette, and tartiflette.
FLOCONS DE SEL Operated by husband and wife duo, Kristine and Emmanuel Renaut, this 3 Michelin Star restaurant is a dining experience truly “worth a special journey.”
FLOCONS VILLAGE A casual alternative to Flocons de Sel located in the heart of Megeve.
CLUB DU MONT D'ARBOIS Supremely located at the base of the slopes of Mont d’ Arbois and perfect for a quick bite after skiing in winter or golfing in summer.
CLUB DE JAZZ LES CINQ RUES The spot in town to have a glass of vin chaud and listen to jazz. Make sure to make a reservation or arrive early as it gets crowded as the night wears on…
LE CHAMOIS Traditional Alpine Restaurant in Megève with fondue, raclette, pierrade, tartiflette, tartichèvre, and a hearty burger.
LADURÈE The Megève outpost of the Parisian bakery…. we especially love the special ski-print packaging.
PATISSERIE LE COMPTOIR DU PÈRE SOTIEU Pick up a Galette de Rois during January and marron glacé to satisfy your sweet tooth all year round.
ARTS | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
SKI Megeve is part of the Evasion Mont Blanc ski area - the 4th largest in France. There are three main ski areas: Rochebrune, Le Jaillet, and Mont D'arbois, which offer 325 km of pistes.
JAILLET LUGE During summer months, children and adults alike can take a ride down the toboggan run at Jaillet.
LAC DE JAVEN HIKE During summer, the hike to Lake Javen is a scenic way to spend the day. Pack a picnic and enjoy the view of the emerald lake. Horseback riding, mountain biking, fishing, and golf are also available.
MUSEE DE MEGÈVE Visiting a museum might not be the first thing that comes to mind when visiting Megève, but we recommend this one. Located right in the heart of the historic center, the Museum of Megève is in the authentic frame of the former House of Charity building of the XVIIth century endowed with a baroque chapel. Last time we were there, a delightful exhibition on the evolution of Ski Fashion was on display.
SHOP
ALLARD The creator of the Fuseau style of stirrup ski pants in 1930 with a prime location next to Hermès and the Christmas Tree in the town square.
FORMES ET UTOPIE Visit for striking furnishings by young European designers.
BLU & BERRY A boutique carrying the latest fashions from French Designers including Isabel Marant and Céline.
SPA
PURE ALTITUDE SPA AT LES FERMES DE MARIE The Pure Altitude Spa at Les Fermes de Marie is the flagship Spa of the Made in the Alps label. After a long day on the slopes, treat yourself to a massage followed by a soak in the Ofuro bath tubs.
TATA HARPER SPA AT COUER DE MEGÈVE Book a relaxing treatment using exclusively organic, plant-based ingredients at the Tata Harper Spa in the new Coeur de Megève hotel.
Text: Veronica H. Speck Photo: Slim Aarons, © Getty Images