Palm Springs
Poolside Gossip by Slim Aarons at The Kaufmann House by Richard Neutra, 1970
Palm Springs, a city in the Sonoran Desert of southern California, is known for its hot springs, stylish hotels, golf courses, and spas. It's also noted for its many fine examples of midcentury-modern architecture. Its core shopping district along Palm Canyon Drive features vintage boutiques, interior design shops, and restaurants. The surrounding Coachella Valley offers hiking, biking, and horseback riding trails.
STAY
THE PARKER PALM SPRINGS Designed by Jonathan Adler, this resort is in the heart of downtown Palm Springs. Behind the large Breeze Block facade lies a restaurant and terrace, bohemian bar, outdoor pool, tennis court, lawn games, and a spa.
L’ HORIZON Built in 1952 by renowned architect William F. Cody, the midcentury modern hotel was a favorite celebrity destination spot in the 50s and 60s. The current resort has been updated by Steven Herman, bringing back the glamour of the Hollywood golden age.
THE ACE A trendy alternative to the grand resorts with a popular restaurant and bar.
THE RITZ-CARLTON RANCHO MIRAGE Sunset views from the terrace overlooking the whole of the Coachella Valley are par none.
CASA CODY A new property by the Cassetta Group, Casa Cody is a charming B&B dating from the 1920s, set in lush gardens with views of the San Jacinto mountains.
THE SANDS A Moroccan-inspired hotel designed by Martyn Lawrence Bullard, offering a twist on the Tennis and Racquet Clubs of the 50’s and 60’s in Palm Springs.
THE WALDORF ASTORIA LA QUINTA A sprawling resort in La Quinta by The Waldorf Astoria featuring golf courses, tennis courts, pools, restaurants, and bars.
TWO BUNCH PALMS RESORT & SPA A resort dating from 1930 set on 77 acres featuring a natural grotto, hot spring pools, swimming pools, and tennis courts, as well as a farm-to-table restaurant.
TWIN PALMS “SINATRA HOUSE” Commissioned by Frank Sinatra and designed by E. Stewart Williams, Twin Palms was the singer’s holiday house. It is now available to rent for events or stays.
THE COLONY PALMS HOTEL A 1930s Moroccan-style hotel with perfect poolside cabanas for basking under the hot desert sun. We also recommend the Purple Palm restaurant, named after the infamous Purple Gang mob.
HOLIDAY HOUSE This boutique hotel was originally designed by architect Herbert W. Burns. Today, it has been reimagined by interior designer Mark D. Sikes. The property features midcentury-inspired elements centered around Gio Ponti’s tile-work, and includes works by David Hockney, Roy Liechtenstein, Herb Ritts, Alex Katz and Mr. Brainwash, with a garden sculpture by Donald Sultan.
LA SERENA VILLAS Updated by architect Maya Sung, these 1930s hacienda-style bungalows sit at the base of the San Jacinto Mountains steps away from Palm Canyon Drive. Each villa includes a patio, claw-foot tub, fire-pit, and pool.
DINE | DRINK
COPLEY’S ON PALM CANYON Set on Cary Grant’s former estate, this romantic restaurant offers a charming garden with a view.
MELVYN'S A favorite of the Rat Pack back in the day, Melvyn’s & The Casablanca Lounge still plays live music and offers classic cocktails on the terrace.
PAPPY & HARRIETS You can smell the barbecue and hear the live music from miles away at this rustic eatery in Pioneertown. Check the event schedule and plan accordingly- even Paul McCartney has performed at this intimate venue.
SHIELD’S DATE FARM No trip to Palm Springs is complete without a stop for a Date Shake at Shield’s, which opened in 1924. Date Palms were originally brought to the California Desert from Egypt, Algeria, and the Persian Gulf in the 1800s. Today, 85% of U.S. Dates are from the Coachella Valley, derived predominately from the 14,000 offshoots of the Deglet Noor variety of Date imported from Algeria. The prodigious output of the oasis of the Coachella Valley rivaled that of the Middle East itself, and created such abundance, that new descriptions such as “Allah’s Garden” were coined. To this day, the city of Indio hosts an annual Date Festival.
SHERMAN’S DELI The only spot for NYC-style deli fare from bagels and lox to babka.
CHEEKY’S A popular breakfast and brunch spot with everything from cinnamon rolls to chilaquiles.
THE PURPLE PALM Set within The Colony Palms Hotel, The Purple Palm, is a Moroccan-themed restaurant designed by Martyn Lawrence Bullard.
LAS CASUELAS TERRAZA A classic spot with multiple locations for Mexican Food.
THE PINK CABANA Set inside The Sands Hotel, The Pink Cabana is an all-day restaurant featuring a Mediterranean menu with, you guessed it, pink decorative accents and cabanas.
BAR CECIL Bar Cecil is a love letter to Cecil Beaton's vision of life and art. 1555 S Palm Canyon Dr, Palm Springs; barcecil.com
ARTS | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
SUNNYLANDS CENTER & GARDENS For over 40 years, Ambassadors Walter and Leonore Annenberg welcomed political, business, educational, and entertainment leaders to Sunnylands, their 200-acre winter home in Rancho Mirage, California. In 2001, the couple established The Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands to preserve the estate as a place where world leaders could meet to discuss issues of national and international importance. Today, tours of the historic home and vast gardens are offered.
MODERNISM TOUR Palm Springs is a mecca for fans of mid-century architecture and design, especially during the annual Modernism Week each Spring, where private properties that are typically closed to the public open their doors. Another option is The Modern Tour led by local expert Michael Stern. If you prefer to go at your own pace, the self-guided Palm Springs Modernism Tour is just right. You will make stops at the Albert Frey-designed Tramway Gas Station (now the Palm Springs Visitor Center), the Donald Wexler-designed, Alexander Steel House and Dinah Shore Estate, the William Krisel-designed 970 East Racquet Club. the Richard Neutra designed Grace Miller House on Palm Canyon Drive, Swiss Miss-style homes, Frank Sinatr’’s “Twin Palms” by E. Stewart Williams, Bob Hope and Arthur Elrod’s house by John Lautner, The Alexander Estate or "The House of Tomorrow” where Elvis Presley honeymooned, and of course the Kaufmann House by Richard Neutra, the setting for the icon “Poolside Gossip” photo by Slim Aarons.
JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK Straddling the Colorado and Mojave Desert, Joshua Tree National Park takes its name from trees that dot the landscape.
SALTON SEA The Salton Sea is actually a lake, which was created by the inflow of water from the Colorado River in 1905. In the 1950s and 60s, the area became a resort destination until the 80s when it became polluted and contaminated. Today, it still a tourist attraction, but the mirage is best seen from the car with the windows rolled up to avoid the less than favorable smell!
PALM SPRINGS AERIAL TRAMWAY MOUNTAIN STATION The world’s largest rotating tram car travels over two-and-one-half miles along the breathtaking cliffs of Chino Canyon, transporting riders to the pristine wilderness of the Mt. San Jacinto State Park. Once you reach the Mountain Station with an elevation of 8,516 feet, enjoy a drastic weather change, two restaurants, observation decks, natural history museum, two documentary theaters, a gift shop, and over 50 miles of hiking trails.
PIONEERTOWN Actor Dick Curtis created the town in 1946 as an 1880’s themed Old West living, breathing motion-picture set. Today, you can stroll the ranches, shops, and restaurants including Pappy & Harriets for barbecue.
THE LIVING DESERT A zoo specializing in desert wildlife and gardens.
THE THERMAL CLUB A members-only racetrack with a club, restaurant, and villas. Also worth a visit is the BMW Performance School adjacent to The Thermal Club.
INDIAN CANYONS HIKE A scenic hiking or horseback riding trail with palm trees and waterfalls in the middle of the desert- truly an oasis.
CACTUS TO CLOUDS TRAIL Not for the faint of heart, the Cactus to Clouds Trail begins in Palm Springs, California, and ascends to San Jacinto Peak. With a net elevation gain of roughly 10,300 feet, it has one of the greatest elevation increases among day-hike routes in the United States.
PALM SPRINGS ART MUSEUM Displaying a permanent collection of over 12,000 objects rooted in modern and contemporary art, architecture, and design, the museum is a must-see.
MOORTEN BOTANICAL GARDENS Specializing in cacti and desert plants, this privately-owned arboretum was created to share the beauty and extraordinary varieties of desert plants with visitors.
INTEGRATRON SOUND BATHS A 38ft tall cupola structure designed by ufologist and contactee George Van Tassel who claimed the Integratron was capable of rejuvenation, anti-gravity, and time travel. See for yourself at this desert spaceship.
ELDORADO POLO CLUB Indio is home to many polo clubs with Eldorado being one of the largest in the U.S. The season runs from January- March.
INDIAN WELLS TENNIS GARDEN The year-round tennis club is open to the public, and plays host to the world’s largest combined men’s and women’s tennis tournament – the BNP Paribas Open.
SHOP
EL PASEO The Fifth Avenue or Rodeo Drive of Palm Springs with luxury boutiques and restaurants.
THE FINE ART OF DESIGN One of many vintage stores in Palm Springs with designer labels.
Photos: Slim Aarons, © Getty Images