Philadelphia
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania’s largest city, is notable for its rich history, on display at the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall (where the Declaration of Independence and Constitution were signed) and other American Revolutionary sites. Also iconic are the steps of the Philadelphia Museum of Art, immortalized by Sylvester Stallone’s triumphant run in the film "Rocky." Here is our travel guide to Philadelphia.
STAY
RITTENHOUSE HOTEL A luxury hotel across from Rittenhouse Square Park with a gym, an indoor pool, a steam room and a sauna, as well as 4 dining options, ranging from an upscale restaurant to a cocktail bar.
FITLER CLUB A members-only club and hotel with a fine dining restaurant, impressive art collection, garden, workspace, study, and spa with an incredibly well-trained team of massage therapists.
FOUR SEASONS A recently opened property opposite Logan Square with an impressive rooftop pool and 360-degree views of the city.
THE RITZ The Ritz is the gold standard of hotels in Philadelphia. The lobby is housed in the rotunda building that was completed in 1908 as a model of Rome’s Pantheon, using 9,000 tons of Georgia marble—by the same architectural firm behind the first MSG and Washington Square Arch in NYC, as well as the Boston Symphony Hall. (The interior marble was largely sourced from the same Italian quarry as Michelangelo’s David.) First the company home of the Girard Trust Company president E.B. Morris, the rotunda building went on to house the Girard Trust Corn Exchange, and later two different banks, before being converted into a hotel in 2000. The Ritz rooms are in the partner tower, which was designed by the same firm in 1923, and grew from eight to thirty stories in 1931.
WM. MULHERIN'S SONS A former whiskey factory turned boutique hotel. Each of the four rooms are spacious and feature custom woodworking and furniture that marries with the original detailing of the space. The attention to detail makes it feel like you're spending the night in a chic artists' loft.
LOKAL HOTEL Tucked into the Old City’s historic quarter, the six-room, apartment-style Lokal offers a pared-back, minimalist vibe with a mix of mid-century modern furniture and thoughtfully selected found objects from local flea markets.
LE MERIDIEN Located smack in the middle of the city, the slick outpost of Le Meridien is the ideal home base from which to take in the city’s most notable sights—Philadelphia Museum of Art, Rittenhouse Square, and the Liberty Bell are nearby. T
HOTEL PALOMAR An eclectic (and eco-friendly) offering, housed in a former 1920s Art Deco building just blocks from Rittenhouse Square.
HOTEL MONACO The sister hotel to Hotel Palomar, near Lokal in the historic district, and close to the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall, and the Betsy Ross House. This whimsical boutique hotel is housed in an iconic building commissioned by the estate of Stephen Girard, a renowned mariner and one of the richest Americans in history. Inspired by Girard’s travels, the property offers serious sensory overload, from ornate check-in desks set against a backdrop of traditional Japanese calligraphy brushes to rooms featuring Chinese-inspired red-lacquered cabinets and heavily patterned carpets. The decor is a wonderful, eclectic swirl offering the perfect antithesis to the historic buildings it overlooks (Independence Hall is just across the street). It’s also home to two of Philly’s hottest dining spots—the Red Owl Tavern and Stratus, the city’s foremost rooftop bar.
ROOST RITTENHOUSE Housed in a handsome turn-of-the-century edifice, this boutique property allows guests unique insight into living like a local. Each of the 27 units is kitted out with midcentury-inspired furniture, full kitchens, and in-unit washers and dryers.
DINE | DRINK
ZAHAV James Beard Award-winning chef Michael Solomonov, who was born in Israel and raised in Pittsburgh, is the star of this iconic Philadelphia restaurant. Go for the pre-fixe menu, a sampling of amazing mezze and Israeli-style grilled meats and veggies.
VETRI Marc Vetri is the chef/founder of Philadelphia's critically acclaimed Vetri Cucina. A Philadelphia native, Vetri founded the restaurant in 1998 with his business partner, Jeff Benjamin, to universal acclaim.
PIZZERIA VETRI The dough here is so delicious that you can easily make a meal of the crusts alone—or order a Rotolo as an appetizer. The Napoletano-style pies cover all the toppings bases—margherita, porchetta, even a tuna.
PALIZZI SOCIAL CLUB Located in South Philly, originally founded in 1918, and proclaimed “the best pizza in America” by Bon Appetit.
WM. MULHERIN'S SONS Set in a hundred-year-old former whiskey blending and bottling facility, Wm. Mulherin’s Sons was brilliantly restored and designed, blending pre-prohibition details and vibes with modern touches. The wood-fired menu is driven by pizzas and charred meats, with ideally sharable small plates like roasted cauliflower and seafood crudos. Four rooms in the historic building are now open as a boutique hotel by the same name.
DIZENGOFF One of two Israeli restaurants helmed by Chef Michael Solomonov.
NAM PHUONG and CAFÉ DIEM Two of the best Vietnamese spots in the tristate area.
FITZ AND STARTS Two chefs cooking simple all-day fare in an artsy, brick-walled corner storefront.
DI BRUNO BROS A specialty store on Chestnut Street with a large selection of meat and cheese.
THE FAMOUS 4TH STREET DELI Good old-fashioned comfort food like matzo ball soup and chocolate chip cookies.
FEDERAL DONUTS Famous fried chicken and coffee.
FRANKLIN FOUNTAIN An old-fashioned candy shop and ice cream parlor.
SHANE CANDIES Restored by the brother team behind Franklin Fountain to mirror the original confectionary—in business on and off since 1863. Their claim to fame: “clear toy” candies, made on-site, where they also craft bonbons, fudge, perfect marshmallow hot chocolate, and so much more, from scratch.
LA COLOMBE Todd Carmichael has coffee in his roots. Well before founding La Colombe in Philly, a boutique coffee company and café that has sparked a sort of coffee revolution, with its canned draft lattes and pure black varieties, he lived in Seattle where he worked at a café that later became Starbucks. The businessman and traveler partnered with JP Iberti to start La Colombe with the goal of bringing sustainable, good coffee to the masses. In Philly, you can sip their brews at their locations in Fishtown, Rittenhouse Square (their first brick-and-mortar shop), Dilworth Plaza, and Independence Mall.
RIVAL BROS. COFFEE A cozy, casual local coffee shop.
VEDGE A vegan restaurant with standout dishes like stuffed avocado, country-fried kohlrabi, and eggplant braciole, and an extensive wine and cocktail list.
DOUBLE KNOT A hybrid cafe/Japanese fusion restaurant that’s open all day—from morning espressos to banh mi, pork buns, robatayaki-style meat, and handrolls throughout the day. Cocktails are poured into the night at the intimate, speakeasy-like basement bar.
FORK Part of the same restaurant group as High Street on Hudson in NYC, helmed by Chef Jeremy Hansen. Handmade pastas are coupled with grilled lobster, dry-aged steak, bitter green salads, and other seasonal dishes. Fork also does a Sunday brunch that showcases more of the acclaimed pastry/bread program, too.
V STREET From the same people behind Vedge, V Street is a similarly impressive and a popular vegetable-forward dining spot. Brunch options include pho French dip, waffles with sesame butter, blackberries, and ponzu, a side of Peruvian home fries, and purple sweet potato ice great with orange granita, coconut whip, and picked pineapple for dessert.
EL VEZ El Vez is a reliably lively spot perfect for a group. The fairly extensive menu offers everything from crab and cactus salsa to a kale salad with vegan caesar dressing and cashew “parmesan” to sweet corn and poblano empanadas. Margaritas here are excellent—you can't go wrong with the classic, but they're known for the frozen blood orange.
AMIS An Italian restaurant by Jeff Benjamin, Marc Vetri, Brad Spence, and Jeff Michaud. Order the baked pecorino with almond honey and the bucatini with almond pesto.
HUNGRY PIGEON Tucked into a small corner of Fabric Row, with eclectic decor including birdcages, charming, mismatched silverware, vintage furniture, and brick accent walls. Helmed by co-owners Scott Schroeder and Pat O’Malley who serve up delicious pastries including flaky chocolate croissants, banana bread sticky buns and buttermilk biscuits. Dinner serves an excellent spaccatelli and mushrooms, grilled eggplant, and a grilled half chicken with quinoa tabouli.
TALULA'S DAILY A casual lunch spot in Washington Square, which turns into an intimate 30-seat nightly supper club with a tasting menu. Recent menu highlights include a sweet potato soup with ginger marshmallow, duck salad, and avender polenta cake with rosemary ice cream.
TALULA'S GARDEN As its name suggests, the place to be is in the garden—twinkling lights and lush greenery throughout. The farm-to-table menu, from deviled eggs three ways for brunch (topped with pickled beets, fresh crab, and bacon) to sustainably sourced salmon tabbouleh for dinner, and an excellent wine and cheese selection.
HIGH STREET MARKET Chef Eli Kulp’s artisanal bread and pastry restaurant.
VERNICK Chef-owner Gregory Vernick’s namesake Rittenhouse Square restaurant. There’s an entire corner of the menu dedicated to beautifully plated toasts as well as grilled black sea bass with spicy broccoli and saffron, and small Maryland crab on toast, plus simple wood-fired Amish chicken and a fish of the day.
GOLDIE FALAFEL A vegan falafel shop paired with tahini and fries. Perfect for a quick lunch.
ROOT RESTO & WINE BAR A tapas spot in Fishtown neighborhood, serving up an American twist on Italian and Spanish small plates including black cavatelli and lamb chops with lemon and mint. They also serve an impressive cheese plate with local selections from Pennsylvania and Vermont and further variations from Spain.
HARP & CROWN Husband and wife team Michael and Nina Schulson opened this seasonal American restaurant in a renovated space with a bowling alley and pizza place on the lower level.
MISSION TAQUERIA Perched on the second floor above sister restaurant Oyster House, Mission has a bright, welcoming space filled with white picnic tables. Ceviche, chicken mole tacos, and churros are all on the menu.
BARBUZZO A tiny Mediterranean spot serving up incredible pizzas (think: red grapes, secret sauce, gorgonzola, arugula, prosciutto, toasted walnuts, and vincotto). They're also known for their budoinos.
BUTCHER BAR PHILLY Meat hooks line the ceiling of this split-level space with a meat heavy menu, hence the name.
PIZZERIA BEDDIA Baker Joe Beddia makes all the dough by hand and sells out daily. Line up early for what many consider to be some of the best pies in the country.
TOWNSEND Helmed by chef Townsend Wentz, set in a townhouse, and serving up a five-course tasting menu.
CHARLEY DOVE A cozy Mediterranean restaurant with specials including grilled baby octopus, watermelon with feta cheese, and potato-crusted ahi.
TWENTY MANNING A neighborhood spot that is ieal for date night. Try the prepped burger, veggie stir-fry, and and berry cobbler.
SURAYA An enormous Lebanese market in Fishtown with a bakery, cafe and restaurant serving some of the best Levantine eats you’ll find anywhere. From the simplest things (baba ghanoush and fresh, warm pita) to whole grilled chicken marinated in sumac to lamb sausages rich with coriander, cinnamon and clove to a full cocktail list and a beautiful dining room full of warmth and people, this is a mecca of Middle Eastern dining.
MOSHULU One of the world's largest original remaining windjammer sailing ships, the Moshulu also doubles as a floating restaurant. You can learn about her journeys, such as carrying nitrate from Germany and coal from Australia, and since it's docked in Penn's Landing, it's close to other museum ships USS Becuna and USS Olympia.
READING TERMINAL MARKET Philadelphia has a long market history, the first informal iterations having appeared in the 1680’s. Reading Terminal was formed from a few different markets and opened in 1892; train service began the following year. The last train left Reading Terminal in 1984, but the market lives on. Today, people come here for excellent produce, meat, cheese, specialty chocolate, flowers, and soft pretzels from Miller’s Twist.
ULTIMO COFFEE NEWBOLD Ultimo was early to the Philadelphia coffee scene and remains a favorite. They share a roof with a specialty craft beer shop called Brew. Ultimo now has a roastery/lab in this neighborhood, too.
WECKERLY An ice cream parlor inFishtown by husband-and-wife duo Andy and Jen Satinsky. The organic cream comes from Seven Stars Farm in Chester County and the eggs from nearby Sandy Ridge—plus they’ll incorporate fresh and in-season ingredients, so no two batches are totally alike. This summer, standouts included blueberry breakfast (cinnamon toast oat ice cream plus blueberry swirl) and summer jam, a chocolate ice cream with marshmallow fluff.
COOK In an intimate, 16-seat exhibition space, local chefs like Malik Ali of the Dutch, Matt Kemp of Shoon Sushi, and Peter Scarola of R2L offer cooking lessons and events once a month. They also sell an assortment of cookbooks, kitchen gadgets, and produce from Fishtown-based Green Aisle Grocery.
HEADHOUSE FARMERS MARKET A year-round farmers' market that features more than 40 local vendors offering some of the best produce from the surrounding area. Located in the historic Society Hill neighborhood and Run by The Food Trust, a Philadelphia-based non-profit that works to make fresh, healthy food accessible in the city, this is one of Philly's largest and most popular markets.
FRANKLIN'S It was once the site of one of the largest-running underground alcohol operations during prohibition, using "The Franklin Mortgage & Investment Company" as its front. The drinks still run today, but with a much more artisanal bent: The bar staff serves up some of the best cocktails in the city, including an Old Fashioned that can't be missed.
1 TIPPLING PLACE Furnished with a variety of antiques and estate sale finds like floral couches and leather chairs, this cozy bar is manned by owner Anne Frey, a local institution who makes all of her cocktails from scratch, with syrups that are mixed-in house and ingredients that change with the seasons.
STANDARD TAP A gastropub with a large draft beer selection with indulgent classics like chicken pie and pulled pork sandwiches.
MCGILLIN'S OLDE ALE HOUSE Open since 1860, this local Irish bar is a classic.
FRANKFORD HALL A German-style beer garden with ample outdoor seating, German beer served in steins, giant pretzels, schnitzel, and six different types of sausages.
PHILLY STYLE BAGELS According to bakers Collin Shapiro and Jonathon Zilber, a “Philly Style Bagel” means boiling the dough in beer-spiked water. The result is crispy on the outside and doughy on the inside with a delicate malty flavor. Try sesame, poppy, garlic, onion, salt, everything, or a plain bagel simply toasted with spread such as smoked salmon.
HOP SING LAUNDROMAT Noted for having one of the most diverse drink menus in the nation, this speakeasy is located behind a nondescript metal door on a Chinatown street. There’s no signage, no phone number, and no website. The odd yet intriguing design features a vestibule with church pews and a penny-covered floor, while the bar is swathed in red and decorated with old-world portraits and vintage lanterns.
SUGA The latest venture of James Beard Award–winning chef Susanna Foo and son Gabriel, this Rittenhouse eatery features an impressive design heralded by a floor-to-ceiling mural of a Mongolian woman—an homage to chef Foo’s Mongolian roots. Menu items include Mongolian lamb, Mapo tofu, and Parmesan-crusted dumplings.
ARTS | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
BARNES FOUNDATION The Barnes Collection was originally established in 1922 by Albert Barnes, a Philadelphia businessman who amassed a stunning collection of impressionist, post-impressionist, and early modern paintings—including significant works by Renoir, Cézanne, Matisse, Picasso, and Rousseau. In 2012, Barnes’ namesake foundation opened a stunning new campus building that devotes 93,000 square feet to storage, conservation, education, and exhibition space, which makes his stunning collection more accessible than ever. Equally as special is the arboretum located at the Barnes’s original home in Merion, Pennsylvania, nestled in the heart of Philadelphia’s suburban Main Line.
RODIN MUSEUM 120 sculptures of artist Auguste Rodin are on display inside and outside in the gorgeous formal French garden. It’s the largest public collection of the sculptor’s work outside of Paris.
PHILADELPHIA MUSEUM OF ART The PMA might be famous for the “Rocky Steps;” however, the works inside are equally impressive. It is the third largest art museum in the country so plan to spend a significant amount of time.
CHANTICLEER GARDEN A stunning oasis located in Wayne, Pennsylvania. It’s set on the grounds of the former Rosengarten estate and was once deemed ”America’s most inspiring garden” by Garden Design.
MORRIS ARBORETUM A Victorian arboretum with ninety-two acres of English gardens. As part of the University of Pennsylvania (about a 30-minute drive outside of the city), it offers educational classes on horticulture throughout the year.
PHILADELPHIA ORCHESTRA Lauded as one of the most renowned orchestras in the nation–and world, the Philadelphia Orchestra has been a destination for culture enthusiasts since its inception in 1900. It’s helmed by conductor Yannick Nézet-Séguin, who is only the eighth music director of the symphony, a fact that speaks to its tenacity and caliber. One of the noteworthy aspects of seeing this symphony is experiencing the Kimmel Center: an architecturally-iconic building designed by Raphael Vinoly that sits along the Avenue of the Arts, the center of Philly’s bustling performing arts community.
NATIONAL CONSTITUTION With a slew of interactive exhibits, this museum delivers on its promise of educating, and offering an engaging dialogue about the Constitution. Past exhibits, like Powers of the President, have looked at the nature of executive power under the Constitution as it has been defined through the legacies of George Washington, Abraham Lincoln, FDR, and Richard Nixon.
LIBERTY BELL The Liberty Bell is one of the most iconic symbols of American sovereignty. Nearby historic sites include Independence Hall (where the Declaration of Independence and Constitution were signed), Carpenters’ Hall (where Congress met while Philadelphia was the capital), Christ Church (where George Washington and Benjamin Franklin once had assigned pews), and the Betsy Ross House (where the building’s namesake sewed an early American flag).
BOAT HOUSE ROW When the Shuylkill Navy was founded back in 1858, each of the member rowing clubs built stunning boathouses along the river to host trainings and, of course, house their boats. Today, the Navy is active as ever, hosting regattas for every level of skill and competition, and the gorgeous houses (which are lit up with lights in the evenings) still stand, in excellent condition. The best view of the houses, and regattas, is from the Schuylkill River Trail, which is equally perfect for long bike rides into the suburbs or quick morning walks, cup of coffee in hand.
RITTENHOUSE SQUARE While most cities have some type of a public square, it's safe to say many aren't as historic as Rittenhouse Square. One of the five original city squares created by William Penn, it's named after the renowned inventor and astronomer David Rittenhouse. Some of the city's most beautiful homes surround it, many dating back to the mid-1800s.
EASTERN STATE PENITENTIARY With its dramatic gothic architecture (complete with gargoyles and dark grey stone) now crumbling, it’s no wonder Eastern State Penitentiary is believed to be haunted. During the day, tours are offered where visitors can learn about the famous escapes, prisoners (Al Capone stayed here), and the Quaker philosophies that guided the architecture and programming in its earliest days.
SHOP
RIKUMO One of the most lauded boutique stores in all of Philadelphia. Helmed by husband-and-wife team Kaz and Yuka Morihata, Rikumo brings the most gorgeous Japanese textiles, ceramics, teas, and more to a tiny, light-filled shop on Walnut Street.
MEADOWSWEET MERCANTILE Located in Old City, with a highly curated selection of vintage. Joan Shepp and Knit Wit are other options offering luxury brands.
CONVERSION An eclectic selection of reclaimed furniture, which shows off the best of Philly’s handmade scene. You can even make a custom piece here if inspiration strikes.
SELECT SHOP 215 A curated home goods space carrying everything from palo santo incense and unique fragrances to notebooks, paper goods, and prints ready to be framed.
ULISES An art bookstore located in the North Philly area of Fishtown, which is part store and part venue, with selected readings, signings, and events held in the minimal, chic space.
TERRAIN Decor for the home and garden, with several locations throughout the US, though this is the original. To shop here is more like a visit to an envy-inducing English estate garden where everything is for sale, including an impressive inventory of plants for all seasons.
LITTLE HOUSE SHOP English garden planters, charming home decor items, and a bevy of plants, flowers, and trees as well as sets of vintage silver can be found here.
PROVENANCE With a reverence for old historic pieces, the craftsman team can transform virtually any space, turning anything into functional, stunning pieces.
EGAN DAY Tucked in an 1800s brownstone, this streamlined, thoughtful fine jewelry store is an unexpected oasis from the city. The space, outfitted with furniture from BDDW, is meant to evoke the look and feel of taking a walk in a garden. The pieces are minimal, inventive, and unique, with each one with a unique architectural bent.
BARIO NEAL Designers Page Neal and Anna Bario have been making ethically sourced jewelry for more than ten years. Moved by a desire to created pieces that are sustainable and progressive. The designs are unique and include materials that are responsibly sourced, including fairmined and reclaimed metals and conflict-free, fully traceable diamonds.
VAGABOND This boutique stocks hard-to-find, smaller label women's clothing, vintage pieces, edgy jewelry, plus a small selection of home accessories.
SHOP SIXTY-FIVE A Rittenhouse boutique helmed by a former fashion editor.
ART IN THE AGE A cocktail bar and boutique with bottles, books, and tools.
STARS AND STRIPES Located in the former parish house of a decommissioned Gothic Revival church, this concept store sells American-made home, men’s, and women’s wares against a backdrop of ornate leaded-glass windows and original wood detailing.
Text: Veronica H. Speck