Santa Barbara
Santa Barbara is a city on the central California coast, with the Santa Ynez Mountains as a dramatic backdrop. Downtown, Mediterranean-style white stucco buildings with red-tile roofs reflect the city’s Spanish colonial heritage. Upscale boutiques and restaurants offering local wines and seasonal fare line State Street. On a nearby hill, Mission Santa Barbara, founded in 1786, houses Franciscan friars and a museum. Here is our guide to Santa Barbara, California.
STAY
BELMOND EL ENCANTO Perched on an olive tree-studded hillside overlooking the Pacific ocean, the Belmond El Encanto is more than deserving of its Forbes five-star accolades. The ninety-two-room hotel (consisting of Craftsman-style suites and freestanding bungalows) also has a full-service spa with water therapies, steam rooms, and local ingredient-inspired, seasonal treatments. Executive Chef Leo Andres Ayala takes full advantage of Santa Barbara’s bountiful produce offerings—including herbs from Ayala’s on-site herb garden and cheese made from the milk of the Belmond’s resident dairy cow, Ellie. 800 Alvarado Pl, Santa Barbara; belmond.com
ROSEWOOD MIRAMAR BEACH The hotel property dates back to 1876. There’s history here (it was formerly the storied Miramar by the Sea). Guest rooms are done up in easy-on-the-eyes shades of cream and blue, and each has a private terrace with deck chairs. 1759 S Jameson Ln, Montecito; rosewoodhotels.com
SAN YSIDRO RANCH A hotel with history— John and Jackie spent their honeymoon here and Sir Laurence Olivier and Vivien Leigh tied the knot in the gardens. Set against the Santa Ynez Mountains, on an olive and lavender tree-studded estate that was originally built as a citrus farm in the 19th century, you’ll find 41 secluded bungalows. Each cottage comes equipped with a fireplace, private patio (many have outdoor hot tubs and rain showers), and wonderful extras, like heated bathroom floors. Among many other things, the ranch is famous for its $130 “Montecito Margarita” made with Don Julio Real Añejo Tequila and Grand Marnier 150th Anniversary—mixed with agave and lime. Situated in the farm’s former citrus packing house, the stone-walled restaurant offers either creek or ocean views. 900 San Ysidro Ln, Montecito; sanysidroranch.com
RITZ-CARLTON BACARA With the Pacific Ocean on one side and the Santa Ynez Mountains on the other, The Ritz-Carlton Bacara, Santa Barbara, is not lacking in the natural beauty department. It’s the only resort in Santa Barbara with prime waterfront real estate (seventy-eight acres of it). The hotel will arrange surf or sailing lessons, there are hiking trails to see the region’s flora and fauna firsthand, and tide pools are ready for exploration with one of the expert naturalists. 8301 Hollister Ave, Santa Barbara; ritzcarlton.com
PALIHOUSE SANTA BARBARA The new Palihouse Santa Barbara is located in the heart of the historic Presidio neighborhood, perfect for a quiet, relaxing getaway with the cozy feel only a boutique property can deliver. Complete with Spanish Colonial-inspired architecture and warm textiles. Order a Palisade sangria to enjoy by the pool or head out on a Linus bicycle. 915 Garden St, Santa Barbara; palisociety.com
KIMPTON THE GOODLAND HOTEL A boutique hotel near Stearns Wharf and Goleta Beach. 5650 Calle Real, Goleta; thegoodland.com
HOTEL CALIFORNIAN On a palm tree-lined street, this upscale Spanish Colonial Revival hotel has elegant rooms with Moroccan accents, as well as a terrace cafe, and a Mediterranean restaurant with ocean views plus a pool, hot tub, and Moroccan-style spa. 36 State St, Santa Barbara; hotelcalifornian.com
FOUR SEASONS RESORT THE BILTMORE It's Located on Montecito's best beach, and made up of Spanish Colonial bungalows, and members-only Coral Casino Club, which boasts an Olympic-size swimming pool. 1260 Channel Dr, Santa Barbara; fourseasons.com
DINE | DRINK
LA SUPER RICA TAQUERIA A famous taco shop with fresh, Mexican food including tacos, tostadas, and salsas. 622 N Milpas St, Santa Barbara
BETTINA A casual spot for pizza from New York transplants. Order the classic margherita pie with blistered edges and sweet-sour tomato sauce, flecks of basil, and a drizzle of grassy olive oil, and glass of Brunello. No meal at Bettina is complete without an order of the cacio e pepe arancini. 1014 Coast Village Rd, Santa Barbara; bettinapizzeria.com
PAN E VINO A classic Italian spot for delicious and seasonal Italian dishes in a warm, welcoming setting. Choose between the cozy interior or the vine-covered outdoor patio for lunch or dinner. 1482 E Valley Rd, Santa Barbara; panevinosb.com
MCCONNELL'S ICE CREAM Founded in Santa Barbara by a husband and wife team more than 70 years ago, McConnell’s still uses many of the same farms and purveyors they did when they first began. You’ll find flavors ranging from sea salt cookies and cream to lemon and marionberry, as well as top-notch traditional flavors like mint chip and vanilla bean. If you can’t make it to this shop, you can find pints in many upscale grocery stores, and also at LA outposts. mcconnells.com
MERCI Before she opened Merci in the lovely Montecito Country Mart, chef and owner Elizabeth Colling studied at the Ritz Escoffier School in Paris, followed by stints at Spago and Bastide. Order the French brown-butter-soaked waffles Suzette or the breakfast brioche and runny eggs with a side of toast and a smear of herby cheese instead of butter. 1028 Coast Village Rd, Santa Barbara; mercimontecito.com
HONOR BAR An elevated bar with a coleslaw-topped burger, crispy chicken sandwich, and kale salad. 1255 Coast Village, Santa Barbara; honorbar.com
LUCKY PENNY Excellent, wood-fired pizza, meatball sandwiches, and salads— perfect for a group to share. 127 Anacapa St, Santa Barbara; luckypennysb.com
THE LARK Tucked inside the beloved Santa Barbara Fish Market, and named after the overnight train that serviced this part of California for the first half of the last century (which also explains the vintage train booths). As evidenced by the generous portions of comfort food staples like deviled eggs, roasted chicken, and cheese fritters, the menu is designed to encourage sharing. The herbed popcorn, which magically appears at your table the second you sit downis a welcome surprise. 131 Anacapa St, Santa Barbara; thelarksb.com
SAKANA A sushi restaurant with fresh sashimi and an extensive sake list. 1046 Coast Village Rd, Santa Barbara; sb.sakanahe.com
JEANNINE'S A Santa Barbara institution, which started with Jeannine’s signature scones over 30 years ago. These days, the lobster Benedict and Kahlua-soaked banana French toast keep all three locations buzzing. The currant scones and homemade cookies are as good as ever. jeannines.com
MONTECITO COFFEE SHOP & SAN YSIDRO PHARMACY This cafe shares space with an old-time pharmacy. Order the pancakes! 1498 E Valley Rd, Santa Barbara; montecitocoffeeshop.com
SAMA SAMA KITCHEN Come here for quality Indonesian food made with fresh ingredients sourced solely from local farms. Start with the garlic wings and blistered shishito peppers, followed by the Mie Goreng noodles. 1208 State St, Santa Barbara; samasamakitchen.com
LOS ARROYOS Mexican food that is prepared fresh daily, using tried-and-true family recipes and local ingredients. The crab enchiladas and chimichanga burrito are particularly popular, There are also eight kinds of salsa. 1280 Coast Village Rd, Montecito; losarroyos.net
LUCKY'S STEAKHOUSE Lucky's is an all American restaurant with martinis, oysters, steamed artichokes with vinaigrette, and of course, the requisite steaks and chops. It has a great old-world Rat Pack vibe and it's open late. 1279 Coast Village Rd, Montecito; luckys-steakhouse.com
FINCH & FORK Fresh, California cuisine meets American classics at Finch and Fork, where the dishes are prepared simply. There are different daily specials (i.e. burger and beer, pork and cork) and just-caught seafood on the menu. 31 W Carrillo St, Santa Barbara; finchandforkrestaurant.com
BACKYARD BOWLS Specializing in hot porridge, acai bowls, and every manner of smoothie, this popular spot has four locations throughout Santa Barbara. The perfect pre or post surf snack. backyardbowls.com
SANTA BARBARA PUBLIC MARKET A gourmet market comprised of artisanal vendors specializing in local and sustainably-sourced fare. This means that it's essentially set up like the perfect pantry: There’s organic produce at Foragers Pantry, the freshest loaves at Crazy Good Bread, and organic meats at Belcampo. As far as prepared foods go, Flagstone Pantry serves up lunchtime basics like soups, salads, and sandwiches while Empty Bowl serves steamy noodle bowls and handmade dumplings. 38 W Victoria St, Santa Barbara; sbpublicmarket.com
HANDLEBAR COFFEE The owners, ex-competitive cyclists Aaron Olson and Kim Andersen, took up coffee roasting (using a vintage Probat roaster, no less) after the recession put their cycling careers on hold. Fast forward a few years and their creamy capps, cold brews, and killer almond-milk lattes have made their tiny coffee shop the go-to rest stop for riding groups (the wall outside is never without a stack of bikes) and pretty much anyone looking for a quality cup of a coffee and a low-key place to enjoy it. handlebarcoffee.com
DUNE COFFEE ROASTERS A popular Santa Barbara coffee spot serving up almond milk lattes and macchiatos. dunecoffee.com
BIBI JI Contemporary Indian cuisine is offered with a wine list in a relaxed setting lined with portraits. 734 State St, Santa Barbara; bibijisb.com
LOQUITA Farm–fresh Spanish tapas & craft cocktails are served at this busy haunt with a cozy vibe & a patio. 202 State St, Santa Barbara; loquitasb.com
OLIO E LIMONE Located in downtown Santa Barbara's historic arts district, serving artisanal Italian cuisine. 11 W Victoria St Ste. 17, Santa Barbara; olioelimone.com
ART | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
LOTUSLAND A truly unique botanical garden founded by singer turned botanical gardener Ganna Walska. She bought the property in 1941 and over the years transformed it with the help of several world-renowned landscape designers. Today, the garden continues her work by preserving her singular designs and continually expanding the stunning collections of exotic plants from all over the world. Cold Spring Rd, Montecito; lotusland.org
SANTA BARBARA MUSEUM OF ART Established in 1941, they have everything from Chagalls and Kandinskys to Rauschenbergs and Monets, but that's just a backdrop to excellent lectures, exhibits, and events. 1130 State St, Santa Barbara; sbma.net
SANTA BARBARA BOTANICAL GARDEN For nearly a century, these gardens have been preserving and celebrating California's endemic plant life, which spans over 78 acres, thanks to numerous gifts of land over the years. It is a great place to walk and wander, though they offer plenty of more structured, docent-led tours. There's also a Japanese teahouse on-site. 1212 Mission Canyon Rd, Santa Barbara; sbbg.org
SANTA BARBARA MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY Housed in Spanish Revival-style buildings on an extensive property with lush gardens, the museum is the home of an extensive collection of artifacts including a fantastic bird collection, a 72-foot Blue Whale skeleton that greets you upon entrance, and a planetarium. 2559 Puesta Del Sol, Santa Barbara; sbnature.org
MONARCH BUTTERFLY GROVE AT ELLWOOD MESA Hike through this protected grove to see trees covered with monarch butterflies from October- February. 7727 Hollister Ave, Goleta; cityofgoleta.org
SANTA BARBARA COUNTY COURTHOUSE Designed in the Spanish-Colonial style and completed in 1929, the fully operational Courthouse is an iconic Santa Barbara landmark with its distinctive four-faced clock tower, red tile roofs, elegant arches and verdant sunken garden and grounds. Visit the elaborate hand-painted murals inside and climb to the top of the clock tower for an incredible panoramic view of Santa Barbara and beyond. 500 E. Montecito Street; santabarbaraca.com
HIKES Inspiration Point is a relatively short hike that doesn't require a huge climb, and as its name suggests, there's pay-off for making it to the top, which include great views of the city, the ocean, and The Channel Islands. Meanwhile, Lizard's Mouth is up by Goleta, and is less of a hike and more of a place to go climb around on rocks by the ocean and take in the views.
BEACHES If you poll the locals, they always site Butterfly Beach and Hendry's Beach as the two favorites (which means that they're also popular). Butterfly Beach is in Montecito, directly across the road from The Biltmore: Parking spots are hard-won and there aren't a lot of amenities around, so bring a lunch and anything else you might need for the day. Hendry's on the other hand, is next to The Boathouse, which makes it ideal if you don't like to plan ahead.
VINEYARDS
CORKS N CROWNS This popular wine and beer tasting room makes short work of tasting way too many varietals from the Santa Ynez valley—and the best part, is they only source from award-wining wineries, meaning there are no doozies in the flights. Located in The Funk Zone. 32 Anacapa St, Santa Barbara; https://www.corksandcrowns.com/
FOLDED HILLS WINERY A tasting room in Montecito’s Lower Village, a short walk from the Miramar. The family-run Folded Hills winery grows its vines—organically—in the Santa Ynez Valley. 2323 Old Coast Hwy, Gaviota; foldedhills.com
STOLPMAN VINEYARDS Tucked away on an outcropping of limestone, this family-owned vineyard focuses on Syrah and Roussanne grapes, which they tend through sustainable and natural dry farming techniques. They take just as much care post harvest, using native fermentation techniques whenever possible. While they only offer private tours of the vineyard, they have tasting rooms in both Los Olivos and Lompoc. 2434 Alamo Pintado Ave, Los Olivos; stolpmanvineyards.com
THE BLACKJACK TASTING ROOM This famous (and Robert Parker approved) winery has a busy tasting room that’s open daily. Beyond their own wines, the owners have collected some of the best wines from California and all over the world for guests to try. 2205 Alamo Pintado Rd, Solvang; blackjackranch.com
SEA SMOKE Some of the best wine in the area comes from this winery in the Santa Rita Hills. Produced by a small team of six, the winery does not offer tastings, however they do recommend visiting Taste of Santa Rita Hills in nearby Lompoc to try Sea Smoke’s Pinot Noir and other hard-to-get wines of the area. seasmoke.com
SHOP
THE WEBSTER The Webster opened its first permanent hotel boutique in the Rosewood Miramar Beach, offering unique jewelry and designer brands. 1759 S Jameson Ln, Montecito; thewebster.us
GARDE The understated craft feel that permeates this Shaker-style 1920s barn is pure California. Garde is speckled with local ceramics and minimalist furniture by German and Belgian designers, like Hanns-Peter Krafft, alongside exquisite rugs by Faye Toogood. 2280 Lillie Ave, Summerland; gardeshop.com
UPSTAIRS AT PIERRE LAFOND Downstairs at Pierre Lafond you'll find a pint-size grocery store with a takeaway counter and basic coffee; upstairs, you'll find a rambling warren of rooms devoted to everything from coffee table books, to Mini Rodini onesies, to Il Bisonte wallets and Paul Smith socks. 516 San Ysidro Rd, Montecito; shopupstairs.com
HUDSON GRACE The original Hudson Grace is in San Francisco: There, Monelle Totah (Williams-Sonoma, Banana Republic) and Gary McNatton (Gap), turn out a very specific, pristine, and simple sensibility, evidenced by clean-lined pitchers, sturdy cutting boards, and a house line of linen napkins. They are now three boutiques strong in California—including one in the Montecito Country Mart—where you'll find the same mix, including Cire Trudon candles, white lacquer salt mills, and Laguoile corkscrews. Country Mart, 1014 Coast Village Road Suite F Montecito, Santa Barbara; hudsongracesf.com
MAISON K A fragrant outdoor garden of lavender, agave, and olive trees, planted by owner Kimberly Phillips Hayes. Inside you’ll find a considered, travel-inspired collection of home goods like Astier de Villatte candles, airy embroidered dresses, straw hats, Italian leather woven bags, and other imports. 1253 Coast Village Rd, Santa Barbara; maisonkstyle.com
MICHAEL HASKEL ANTIQUES A quaint Montecito-based antique shop. 539 San Ysidro Rd, Montecito
MATE GALLERY Styled like an old-world ship cabin—complete with wood paneled walls, rope-wrapped surf boards, paintings of light houses, and vintage anchors in the Montecito Country Mart. 1024 Coast Village Rd, Santa Barbara; mategallery.com
DIANI Diani has been a Santa Barbara mainstay for years, though despite its longevity, it's lost none of its edge: Isabel Marant, Mother, and Tome indicate the type of designers you'll find on the racks, which are airy and perfectly curated. There's a Diani shoe boutique in the same complex as well as the new, Diani Living, which is devoted to really beautiful place settings, linens, and treasures from around the world (the owner, Caroline Diani, was born in Kenya and raised in England, which explains the global slant). 1324 State St, Santa Barbara; dianiboutique.com
JENNI KAYNE There are actually two Jenni Kayne's in Montecito—one houses the women's collection, and the other two-story spot is part home goods shop and part kids boutique. 525 San Ysidro Rd Ste H, Montecito; jennikayne.com
TECOLOTE BOOK SHOP A Santa Barbara classic, this bookstore has been around for almost 100 years and is a local gem. They carry all the standards, and if you’re on the lookout for a book that’s out of print, Tecolote is happy try and find it for you. 1470 E Valley Rd #52, Santa Barbara; https://www.tecolotebookshop.com/
KYLE IRWIN Kyle Irwin is responsible for the interiors of some of Santa Barbara’s most elegant homes. With a great mix of antiques and contemporary finds. kyleirwindesign.com
C'EST CHEESE A cheese store and gourmet market with delicious homemade bread as well as Belgian waffles and a decadent Truffle grilled cheese. 827 Santa Barbara St, Santa Barbara; cheeseshopsb.com
THE BLUE DOOR An antique store with mid-century tableware to modern paintings. 4 E Yanonali St, Santa Barbara; thebluedoorsb.com
MONTECITO COUNTRY MART A boutique carrying George, Malia Mills, Calypso, and Space N.K. Apothecary. 1016 Coast Village Rd, Montecito; montecitocountrymart.com
Text: Veronica H. Speck Photo: Slim Aarons, ©Getty Images