Puerto Rico
Caribe Hilton in San Juan, Slim Aarons, 1956
Puerto Rico is a Caribbean island and unincorporated U.S. territory with a diverse landscape including mountains, waterfalls, a bioluminescent bay, and the El Yunque tropical rainforest. In the capital, San Juan, the Isla Verde area is known for resorts and casinos whereas Old San Juan features cobblestone streets lined with colorful Spanish colonial buildings and El Morro and La Fortaleza— massive, centuries-old fortresses. The small island has also churned out an astonishing number of reggaeton and pop singers, including: Bad Bunny, Ozuna, Wisin, Luis Fonsi, Don Omar, Daddy Yankee, and of course, Ricky Martin. Here is our guide to Puerto Rico.
STAY
DORADO BEACH, A RITZ-CARLTON RESERVE Originally opened by Laurance S. Rockefeller as a resort and nature sanctuary in 1958. This extensive property on Dorado Beach includes a number of outdoor activities ranging from hiking trails to golf courses; however, our favorite part is the Spa, which features steam rooms, plunge pools, and even a treehouse for massages.
ST. REGIS BAHIA BEACH RESORT Set in a tropical rainforest with guided tours led by local marine biologists, as well as a bird sanctuary, bike paths, a Spa, an oceanfront golf course, and personal butler service.
EL BLOK HOTEL Puerto Rican architect Nataniel Fuster designed the Brutalist-style hotel. Inspired by the coral reefs of Vieques, natural light streams through cutouts in the concrete walls, creating shadows, and mimicking the feeling of being underwater. A rooftop bar and infinity pool is the setting for live bands, DJs, and locals alike,
O:LV FIFTY FIVE HOTEL A new boutique hotel with a rooftop pool offering views of the Condado Lagoon.
EL CONVENTO HOTEL A converted convent dating back to the 1600s located at 100 Calle del Cristo, and complete with a rooftop plunge pool
LA CONCHA RENAISSANCE RESORT Sea-view balconies, swimming pools, and Sixties decor set the scene at this hotel.
CONDADO VANDERBILT HOTEL A classic option on Condado Beach with Chef Juan Jose Cuevas's1919 Restaurant on the property.
FAIRMONT EL SAN JUAN On Isla Verde Beach near downtown San Juan with a spa and ocean villas.
DINE | DRINK
COCINA ABIERTA Chef Martin Louzao’s Condado restaurant has a menu composed of five acts: appetizer, vegetable, seafood, poultry or pasta, and red meat. Select one dish from each in order to create a custom tasting menu. Sommelier Arturo Campos will suggest multiple wines for every dish— from classics if you want to play it safe to wild cards if you have a taste for adventure.
1919 A fine dining restaurant inside the historic Condado Vanderbilt Hotel. Chef Juan Jose Cuevas crafts his menu in collaboration with local farmers.
MARMALDADE Iowa native Peter Schintler opened Marmalade and offers an innovative farm-to-table menu with standouts including a lobster risotto, and the signature tiny white bean soup topped with black truffles.
BARRACHINA “If you like piña coladas…” Barrachina bar in Viejo San Juan claims Spanish bartender Don Ramon Portas Mingot created the famous Piña Colada colada here in 1963. The Caribe Hilton Hotel in Isla Verde also claims its bartender Ramón "Monchito" Marrero created the Piña Colada here in 1954. No matter where you choose to sip the pineapple coconut cocktail, the minute the sweet syrup meets your lips you can’t help but feel like you are on holiday.
CAFE MANOLÍN A1950s-style diner and breakfast institution, frozen in time, serving simple Creole food at 251 Calle San Justo in Old San Juan.
CAFÉ CUATRO SOMBRAS Order a cafecito made with locally grown and roasted coffee beans at 259 Calle Recinto Sur.
LA FACTORIA A speakeasy in the Old City, filled with locals and tourists alike.
PLAZA DEL MERCADO A food market in the middle of the La Placita main square, and the perfect place to try an alcapurria (yucca fritter) or a local fruit juice.
JOSE ENRIQUE Chef Jose Enrique's eponymous restaurant is one of the best, and thus the hardest to reserve, tables in town.
SANTAELLA Serving"cocina criolla" at 219 Calle Canals, also by Chef Jose Enrique. Have a nightcap next door at JungleBird, located at number 254, a cheeky tiki bar owned by the same folks as La Factoria.
EL BAR BERO On Calle Loíza, El Bar Bero is housed in a former barbershop, furnished with vintage barber chairs. Patrons can pick their libations from a chalkboard menu— try the refreshing El Bigote de Luigi made with gin and garnished with fresh basil.
VIA APPIA This local eatery has been serving classic Italian meals since 1976— their speciality is pizza with Spanish chorizo and calzones.
ART | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
EL YUNQUE The only tropical rain forest in the US— one with over 29,000 acres and an exotic landscape of flora and fauna to explore, including the impressive La Coca waterfall.
BAHÍA BIOLUMINESCENTE There are only five ecosystems in the world where the concentration plankton is high enough to be considered bioluminescent bays, and Puerto Rico is home to three of them— Mosquito Bay in Vieques, Laguna Grande in Fajardo, and La Parguera in Lajas. Rent a kayak or glass-bottom boat with the option to scuba dive or snorkel.
SURF Puerto Rico has some of the best spots in the world for surfing, and the island hosts many pro competitions. We recommend Rincon and the local Rincon Surf Resort for lessons and accommodation.
SALINAS DE CABO ROJA The salt flats of the “red cape” have a pink hue due to an abundance of brine shrimp on the salt flats. The perfect photo-opp.
CASTILLO SAN FELIPE DEL MORRO Old San Juan is considered one of the best-preserved examples of Spanish Colonial architecture. Explore the cobblestone streets, and make sure to visit one of the oldest (and largest) Spanish-built forts in the New World. Del Morro fended off both the British and the Dutch in the 16th and 17th centuries. A walk along the top of La Muralla offers scenic views of the Atlantic Ocean.
LA FORTALEZA Also known as El Palacio de Santa Catalina, this is the oldest governor's mansion in the Western Hemisphere and the original fort for the city, built in 1533. Have a picnic in the moorish-style gardens.
MUSEO DE ARTE DE PUERTO RICO Considered by many to be the finest collection of modern and contemporary art in the Caribbean, this former hospital turned art museum is complete with a peaceful sculpture garden. Among its permanent collection are works by Victor Vázquez, Eric Tabales (creator of the building’s five-story stained-glass rear exterior wall), and Jorge Zeno, and outside lie sculptures by Pablo Rubio, María Elena Perales, and others surrounding a beautiful reflecting pool with fish.
CULEBRA A 45-minute boat trip delivers you to Culebra, an island in a sheltered bay, and the perfect locale for snorkeling, swimming, and sunbathing alongside a stretch of beautiful sand on the uninhabited islet of Culebrita. Zoni, Flamenco, and Playa Tortuga beach are also equally scenic.
CENTRO DE BELLAS ARTES LUIS A. FERRE Performances over the past year have included Hamilton (with Lin Manuel Miranda himself) as well as the Puerto Rico Symphony Orchestra concerts. Have a pre or post-show dinner on the terrace of The Casita Miramar restaurant.
Text: Veronica H. Speck Photo: Slim Aarons, © Getty Images