Tulum
The Riviera Maya is a stretch of Caribbean coastline on Mexico’s northeastern Yucatán Peninsula, ending with Tulum. A coastal town known for its beaches and well-preserved ruins of an ancient Mayan port city, including El Castillo, perched on a rocky cliff above the white sand beach and turquoise sea. Near the ruins is the Parque Nacional Tulum, covered with mangroves and natural limestone sinkholes called cenotes. Today, it is more reminiscent of a trendy neighborhood in NY or LA with the influx of tourists and hotels, restaurants, and boutiques lining Highway 307. If possible, visit during May through October when the sea turtles are nesting. Here is our city guide to Tulum, Quintana Roo in Mexico’s Riviera Maya on the Yucatán Peninsula.
STAY
HOTEL ESENCIA Located between Cancun and Tulum lies a beautiful beachfront compound that was originally built for an Italian duchess. Make sure to book a visit to the Xpu-Ha Spa—they create all of their oils from the herbs grown in their garden. Afterward, sip a spicy avocado margarita from the beach bar or restaurant on the property.
UNICO 20°N 87°W Situated next to Hotel Esencia along the Riviera Maya, this all-inclusive resort includes private butlers and suites complete with hot tubs overlooking the sea.
CASA MALCA It was Pablo Escobar who unintentionally put boutique hotel Casa Malca on the radar. Its owner, art collector Lio Malca, purchased the abandoned mansion in 2013, which was previously owned by the infamous Colombian drug lord. Today, the hotel boasts a pool, restaurant, and art-filled interiors with pieces by KAWS and Keith Haring. Our favorite part is the entrance lined with vintage carpets, curtains made from hundreds of wedding dresses, and the always-open wooden doors with a direct view of the ocean.
THE NOMADE Set next door to Casa Malca, and complete with a beautiful private beach, delicious restaurants, and daily yoga classes.
PAPAYA PLAYA PROJECT An eco-resort in the jungle with private treehouse suites along Playa Pescadores beach with a restaurant, pool, spa, yoga, beach bar, and weekend events hosted by DJ’s—- including their popular Thai-inspired “full moon party.”
VILLAS LAS ESTRELLAS A boutique hotel with only 12 rooms situated a stone's throws away from the beach and the surrounding bars and restaurants in the area.
AZULIK The defining feature of this eco-resort is the restaurant, Kin Toh, set in a treehouse in the jungle. A spa, yoga, and traditional Mayan steam baths are also offered.
HABITAS A true escape located on a secluded beach near the Mayan ruins featuring musical performances, wellness retreats, mezcal tastings, and outdoor cinema nights (they even hosted one with Academy Award-winning Mexican director Alejandro Iñarritu).
BE TULUM A larger resort with stone, reclaimed wood, and glass decor and suites complete with plunge pools overlooking the ocean. The beach bar often hosts DJs and events with live music for guests.
MI AMOR As the name suggests, this romantic hotel is perfect for couples. Secluded in nature, it is set on a rocky cliff amidst a tropical forest with an infinity pool and spa.
MUKAN RESORT For a true adventure, take a 45-minute boat ride through mangrove forests and arrive at a tiny islet in the middle of the Sian Ka’an Biosphere, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This 9-room eco-resort offers snorkeling, paddle-boarding, kayaking, cenote-diving, fly-fishing, and tours of the reserve.
NEST Tucked away at the Southern end of Tulum Beach, Nest was one of the original properties. Founded by music industry veteran, James Chippendale— the minimalist rooms and private villa feature minimalist designs.
SANARÁ TULUM With a name translating to “you will heal”— this hotel aims to do just that through vinyasa yoga classes at the glass-enclosed studio or fresh meals at the beachside vegan restaurant.
JASHITA This boutique hotel is located as close to the shore as you can get, allowing for ample snorkeling around the coral reef.
LA ZEBRA Our favorite part about this hotel is the Sunday Argentine-style asado and salsa party offered weekly on the white sand beach.
ROSEWOOD MAYAKOBA Located in Playa Del Carmen, about an hour’s drive from Tulum. This beachfront resort is surrounded by lush jungle near golf clubs with outdoor infinity pools, an Italian restaurant, a tequila library, and an amazing spa called Sense. Try and stay in the suites on stilts over the lagoon if possible.
PALAFITOS Also located in Playa Del Carmen, this resort offers only Overwater Bungalows sitting atop the turquoise waters of Maroma Beach.
CHABLÉ MAROMA On the crystalline waters of Maroma Beach featuring fine-dining restaurants, outdoor pools, a spa, and a private beach club on white sand where you can snorkel in the second largest coral reef in the world.
BELMOND MAROMA RESORT & SPA Originally the residence of an architect, Belmond Maroma in Solidarad is set on a barrier reef with crystal clear water close to Mayan ruins. The signature treatment at the spa is a volcanic Mayan steam bath known as Temazcal.
BANYAN TREE MAYAKOBA Located next to the Rosewood Hotel, Fairmont Hotel, and El Camaléon Mayakoba Golf Course. Every villa has a private pool opening out onto lagoons and a white-sand beach.
CASA PUEBLO BOCA PAILA Set between a leafy stretch of Highway 15 and the beach in Tulum, this design hotel features private gardens, terraces, balconies, a breezy, thatched-roof restaurant with a bar, and an outdoor pool surrounded by colorful tiles and potted plants.
DINE | DRINK
HARTWOOD
Hartwood is likely the most famous restaurant in the Riviera Maya. It even boasts a best-selling cookbook with an intro by Alice Waters herself. Chef Eric Werner from Brooklyn’s award-winning Vinegar Hill House restaurant moved to Tulum with his wife and opened this outdoor restaurant featuring an open fire grill, and specialties including the grilled fish of the day.
ANTOJITOS LA CHIAPANECA The place to go for authentic tacos al pastor (when you tire of green juice and vegan fare in Tulum).
ROSA NEGRA A Mexican restaurant in the center of Tulum with craft cocktails and stays open later than its neighbors.
GITANO After its success in the jungles of Tulum, Gitano has popped up in New York City and Miami Beach. Set in a private beach club in the Parque Nacional, this palo-santo scented bar, restaurant, and lounge features Mexican food and live music.
CASA JAGUAR A restaurant located deep in the heart of Tulum´s jungle. Browse the boutique while waiting for your reservation. Their sister restaurant, Todos Santos Bar, features live music on Tuesday nights, a boutique, and a cafe.
POSADA MARGHERITA A popular Italian restaurant within a beachside hotel of the same name with an assortment of focaccias and house-made pasta.
ARCA Former Noma Chef Jose Luis Hinostroza serves up wood-fired entrees including a fillet with tamarind and pastilla-laced marrow, served with grilled bread from a sourdough starter made from pulque, and desserts including cacao pods filled with chocolate mousse and toasted sesame.
ART | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
CHICHEN ITZA The pyramid and ruins consist of the remains of a pre-Hispanic city, one of the new seven wonders of the modern world, and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Have lunch at Ku’uk or the Peruvian restaurant La Peruano facing Parque Santa Lucia. The nearby Fundación de Artistas is a nonprofit multidisciplinary art space and organization for the arts with a café and library.
TULUM MAYAN RUINS As well as being the only Mayan city built on a coast, Tulum was one of the few protected by a wall, a fortification that helped preserve the seaport. Hike up to the steep Castillo, or castle, perched on the edge of a 12-meter limestone cliff, overlooking the Caribbean coast. Make sure to peer inside the Temple of the Frescoes to see a mural painted in three sections: the first level represents the Mayan world of the dead, the middle is that of the living, and the final, highest piece, is of the creator and rain gods.
CENOTES The Riviera Maya has over 2,600 cenotes, many of which were used as Mayan spiritual sites, including the Cenote Sagrado— a water-filled limestone sinkhole at the pre-Columbian Chichen Itza. Popular Tulum options include Dos Ojos and Gran Cenote, but we prefer the hidden gem, Nicte-Ha.
CHUNYAXCHE LAGOON Take a boat from Tulum and spend the afternoon floating down the freshwater canals.
EK’ BALAM A Yucatec-Maya archaeological site in Temozón. Unlike Chichen Itza, you can still climb the great Acropolis pyramid at Ek Balam, for dramatic views of the Riviera Maya.
AKUMAL Akumal Beach has white sands, a coral reef, and warm waters rich in marine life, including sea turtles.
SHOP
COQUI COQUI The original Coqui Coqui Hotel has now closed, but it can be credited with putting Tulum on the map. Founded by Creative Director, Nicholas Melville, hotels and perfumeries are now located in Coba, Merida, Valladolid, Izamal, and even Bora Bora. The Coqui Coqui Cobá Papholchac Residence & Spa location is approximately 45 minutes from Tulum and the signature scent is a lime and mint menli fragrance that reflects the lush garden, which has both plants growing there. After shopping the selection of Oficios Artesano’s clothing and choosing a parfum to take home, linger at the outdoor restaurant, and spend the afternoon exploring the city of Coba, which includes the ruins of one of the most important archaeological sites associated with ancient Mayan civilization. If you have time— the spa has an incredible cocoa scrub and wrap.
CARAVANA The place to purchase cover-ups for a beach day in Tulum.
WINE NOT You’ll spot this Tulum wine bar by the pink-painted palm trees flanking the entrance to the hut.
DAY & WEEKEND TRIPS
MÉRIDA The capital of the Yucatán state has cobblestone streets lined with pastel-colored buildings from the early 1900s. Shop at the Mercado Lucas de Gálvez, say a prayer or light a candle at the Catedral de Mérida (one of the oldest in the Americas), and visit the Governor’s Palace. Check into the century-old colonial home, Coqui Coqui complete with a spa, restaurant and perfumerie or Casa Azul, a refurbished mansion that dates back to the 19th century. Another option 30 minutes outside of the city is Chablé Yucatan, spread across 750 acres with a contemporary building centered around a cenote in the lush Mayan forest. Incorporating walls from a 19th-century hacienda with modern amenities including restaurants, a spa, gym, an outdoor infinity pool, a sauna, and a steam room. Ixi’im Restaurant sources ingredients from the on-site gardens, and houses an expansive cellar showcasing the largest private tequila collection in the world (over 3,000 bottles). Dine on local dishes at La Tradición by one of the region’s most celebrated chefs, David Cetina. Apoala in Santa Lucia square serves Oaxacan-style food using local ingredients, including a smooth house mezcal. Request a table on the terrace and enjoy live performances on Thursday nights. Mercado 60 is a new food market with stalls selling everything from pizza to craft beer. Cenotes are the jewels of the region, these sparkling swimming holes, which are linked by an underground river system, are unique to the Yucatán and Quintana Roo. For a locals-only, hidden beach— visit Sisal about an hour away. On Friday evenings, the city’s main town square transforms into a platform for the ancient Mayan game pok-ta-pok. Players dress in traditional outfits and attempt to strike a ball through a ring without using their hands or feet. Don’t leave before the final round, when they set the ball alight and continue to play. Beyond Mérida, the region is home to some of the most important archaeological sites in the country, including the ancient Mayan city Uxmal with an impressive pyramid that dates back to the sixth century. Then, check into any number of age-old haciendas, including Hacienda Temozon , Hacienda San Jose and Hacienda Santa Rosa. A word of advice—-visit Mérida sooner rather than later as it has become known as “the new San Miguel de Allende” due to an influx of tourism.
IZAMAL Izamal is another “pueblo magico” translating to “dew that falls from the heavens." Known colloquially as the "La Ciudad Amarilla" or "The Yellow City"— rumor has it Izamal was painted a golden hue in honor of Pope John Paul II’s visit to its Catholic convent in 1993; however, many buildings were already covered in the sun-kissed shade. Stay at Coqui Coqui’s Casa de Los Santos, eat at Kinich, and shop at Taller Maya.
COBÁ A small town with ruins, cenotes, and Punta Laguna monkey sanctuary on the banks of a large swim-friendly lagoon with excellent bird-watching. Stay at the Coqui Coqui Coba Residence and Spa complete with a restaurant with ingredients sourced from a local farm, perfumeria, and a boutique on-site.
VALLADOLID This “pueblo magico” is considered by many to be a “mini Mérida.” Enjoy strolling through the palm-filled plaza past the Convent of San Bernardino de Siena. Stay at Coqui Coqui’s flagship retreat within a XVI century building on Calzada de Los Frailes, one of the most beautiful streets (and the best for shopping) in Valladolid, and select a signature fragrance. In fact, Valladolid has an important history grounded in the art of perfume-making. During the colonization of the New World, the Franciscan friars were commissioned by the queen of Spain to collect flowers, woods, and exotic herbs with the help of the Mayans. The repertoire varied little by little, and eventually, they created a botanical catalog with the most unique Yucatan-born formulas for cologne, emulsions and scents, which were used to perfume the entire Spanish Empire for almost 300 years. Another accommodation option in the center of town is La Casa del Mayordomo, a small Bed & Breakfast next to Candelaria park. Stop by for a juice, breakfast, or lunch at Yerbabuena de Sisal or dinner at Taberna de los Frailes— try the flor de jamaica mezcal cocktail, fish poached in chaya broth or the spicy longaniza local sausage. El Atrio del Mayab or El Meson del Marques located respectively on the south and north sides of the square both have lovely garden patios and menus with staples such as papadzules, ceviche, and conchinita pibil. Shop at the new outpost of Tulum-based brand La Troupe or Hacienda Montaecristo for locally made luxury rebozo scarves, woven silk dresses, and handmade leather accessories. Zaci Cenote is located just northeast of the main square and there is a restaurant at the top with botanas— small delicious snacks that accompany all drinks. The local Mercado displays exotic fruit and tamales, as does the La Palapita de los Tamales.
ISLA MUJERES Translating to the “Island of Women” due to its storied past. In Pre-Columbian times, the island was sacred to the Mayan goddess of childbirth and medicine, Ixchel. When the Spanish arrived in the 16th century they aptly named it "Isla Mujeres" in recognition of the many images of goddesses. Today, the island in the Caribbean Sea off the coast from Cancún is known for its beaches including the popular Playa Norte, snorkeling, scuba diving in the coral reefs, swimming with whale sharks, and the Punta Sur lighthouse, Mayan temple remains, and a sea turtle sanctuary. Cozumel island is another excellent diving destination.
HOLBOX An island off the north coast of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula reached by a two-hour taxi ride from Cancun airport, followed by a half-hour ferry trip, often filled with reggae musicians playing live music. Stay at the contemporary Punta Caliza by architecture firm Estudio Macias Peredo, and built almost entirely out of red cedar grown over three decades by the owners from Guadalajara. Another option is CasaSandra Art Hotel by Cuban artist Sandra Pérez who transformed her own private escape into a chic boutique. The hotel’s candlelit restaurant, Esencia, serves fresh fish accompanied by Mexican wines from Valle de Guadalupe. The Saturday Cuban nights are the place to be for salsa dancing on the beach. Order the whole roasted seabass stuffed with lime, garlic, and rosemary, at Luuma, and shop at Le Bazaar boutique next door. Indulge in the popular lobster pizza at Edelyn and saunter over to Casa Las Tortugas for rooftop mezcal cocktails at sunset.
Text: Veronica H. Speck Photo: Slim Aarons, © Getty Images