Athens
Greek fashion designer Dimitris Kritsas poses with four models against a backdrop of the ancient Doric temple to Poseidon at Sounion, July 1967, Slim Aarons.
Athens is the capital of Greece, and it was also at the heart of Ancient Greece. The city is still dominated by 5th-century BC landmarks, including the Acropolis, a hilltop citadel topped with ancient buildings like the colonnaded Parthenon temple. Today, the city is bursting with art, design, and culture. Here is our guide to Athens, Greece.
STAY
FOUR SEASONS ASTIR PALACE Formerly known as Astir Palace, this Four Seasons property features 74 acres of seaside property, including 3 private beaches, 3 pools, 5 tennis courts, a private pier for water-sports (kayaking, jet skiing, paddleboarding, and sailboarding), and most notably 8 restaurants with chef Bertrand Valegeas at the helm. There is also a state-of-the-art spa, which offers anti-aging caviar treatments. We especially love the gift shop offering exclusives from Greek designers. Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni; fourseasons.com/athens
HOTEL GRANDE BRETAGNE A truly grand hotel situated in the center of Syntagma Square where guests can view the changing of the guard outside of Parliament on Sundays at 11am. The rooftop pool offers views of Lycabettus Hill and the Acropolis. The retail shop includes Greek designs by Zeus + Dione, and guests can have a signature cocktail beneath an 18th-century tapestry of Alexander the Great at Alexander’s Bar. We especially recommend a facial at the spa- ask for Martha! 1 Vasileos Georgiou A, Syntagma Square Str, Athina; marriott.com/en-us/hotels/athlc-hotel-grande-bretagne-a-luxury-collection-hotel-athens
KING GEORGE ATHENS The 1930s King George, a Luxury Collection Hotel, with a rooftop pool and spa adjacent to the Hotel Grand Bretagne. 3 Vasileos Georgiou A, Pl. Sintagmatos Str; marriott.com/en-us/hotels/athgl-king-george-a-luxury-collection-hotel-athens
SAINT GEORGE LYCABETTUS A hotel with what might be the best view of Athens, the Saint George Lycabettus is located in the charming Kolonaki neighborhood with a rooftop restaurant, pool, spa, movie theatre, and art gallery. Kleomenous 2; sgl.gr
PERIANTH HOTEL Situated in Agia Eirini in the city's ancient quarters, the boutique design hotel was designed by renowned architectural firm K-Studio. Steeped in simplicity, the small hotel features contemporary works by Greek artists, such as Lito Kattou and Maria Papadimitriou, personally curated by the owner Anasthasia. Adding to its charm, the hotel's restaurant, Il Baretto, offers delicious Italian food, while sometimes doubling as a yoga space by Zen Center Athens. 2, Limpona Street; perianthhotel.com
NEW HOTEL The New Hotel is the latest property of the Yes! Hotels Group by renowned Greek art collector Dakis Joannou. In fact, the hotel features contemporary works from his Deste Foundation, including pieces by Jenny Holzer, Barbara Kruger, and Laurie Anderson. It is also the first hotel designed by Humberto and Fernando Campana, known as the Campana Brothers, who collaborated with architectural students from the University of Thessaly. The students worked with the Campana brothers to seek inspiration from Athenian culture, and upcycle materials including elements from the former Olympic Palace Hotel, the building’s previous tenant, and reinterpret modern design pieces. The rooftop restaurant offers stunning views of the city. Filellinon 16; donkeyhotels.gr/newhotel
ATHENSWAS A relatively new hotel at the base of the Acropolis in the heart of cobblestoned Plaka with a rooftop bar and restaurant providing local Grecian cuisine and stunning views of the Acropolis, the mountains, and the sea. Dionysiou Areopagitou 5; athenswas.gr
ELECTRA METROPOLIS A hotel is built on a 16th-century church with a rooftop pool, bar, and garden offering views of the acropolis. Mitropoleos 15, Athina; electrahotels.gr/hotels/electra-metropolis-athens
COCO-MAT In the heart of Kolonaki, designed by architect Emmanuel Lazarides, known for designing the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier outside the Greek Parliament. Falirou 5, Athina; athensbc.com
SHILA HOTEL An intimate 8 room boutique hotel in Kolonaki with suites filled with Greek artisanal products and a lush rooftop garden. Mantzarou 10; shila-athens.com
MIRAME A boutique hotel and rooftop with views of the Acropolis and Agora from the terrace. Ermou 118; mirameathens.com
DINE
ATHENEE A classic restaurant since 1939 on the corner of University and Bucharest in Plaka. Enjoy lunch al fresco after shopping nearby. Voukourestiou 9, Athina; atheneeathens.gr
DELTA A fine dining restaurant featuring contemporary Greek cuisine at the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Foundation. Leof. Andrea Siggrou 364; deltarestaurant.gr
SENSE A romantic rooftop restaurant on the 7th floor of AthensWas Design Hotel with an open kitchen an Acropolis views. Dionysiou Areopagitou 5; senserestaurants.com
CHERCHEZ LA FEMME While the city doesn't feature too many breakfast hotspots, Athenians often take to a quaint cafe for a strong coffee, and maybe a cigarette. Despite its decidedly French name, Cherchez la femme offers a traditional Greek coffee, prepared in a hovoli coffee machine, which dates back to the 7th century. Mitropoleos 46; cherchezlafemme.gr
ATLANTIKOS
Tucked away in a hidden alley, Atlantikos is a local spot for fresh fish from the nearby Central Fish Market. Their specialty is a fish sandwich with a side of patates (fries). Avliton 7
TAKIS BAKERY Opened in the 1970s by a couple from Thessalonika, Takis Bakery has been family-run for three generations and produces more than 50 varieties of Greek and international breads, cakes, and pies, including Greek sourdough, choriatiko (village) loaf, French baguettes, koulouris (similar to a pretzel), and dark Bavarian rye bread. For sweets, try the lemon drizzle pound cake, carrot cake, or the double-decker daily special. A cult destination in the Acropolis neighborhood, Takis gets extremely crowded on weekends and holidays. Misaraliotou 14
LOTTE CAFE BISTROT Lotte owner Theodora Athanasopoulou is an actress by trade, but she opened this café, tucked away east of the Acropolis, as a side project. Named after Goethe’s Charlotte in The Sorrows of Young Werther, the result is a cozy gathering place for the Athenian creative class, where jazz and swing music play while people spill out onto the flowery corner terrace, drinking organic Greek wine and signature cocktails and dining on traditional Greek pies, cakes, and sweets all homemade by Athanasopoulou’s mother. Tsami Karatasou 2
COULEUR LOCALE Nestled in a quaint arcade in Monastiraki, Couleur Locale operates on multiple levels: There’s a ground floor inside the covered passageway that’s an easy hangout to munch on snacks, salads, tortillas, and coffee whereas the third floor is open-air—an urban haven by day, animated bar scene by night—with stunning views and an extensive cocktail menu. Normanou 3; couleurlocaleathens.com
SEYCHELLES
A local favorite that sits on an open square with Greek specialties prepared with seasonal ingredients from small local producers. Keramikou 49; seychellesathens.gr
NOLAN A newcomer to the Pláka neighborhood, serving metropolitan comfort food inspired by owner Kostas Pissiotis’s globe-trotting and Greek-Japanese chef Sotiris Kontizas’s passion for “real food that makes people happy.” Emerging architect Manos Babounis has combined classic materials such as mosaics, marble, and wood in a modern way to create a space that is both comfortable and elegant. Voulis 31 - 33; nolanverse.com/nolan-2
GUARANTEE SANDWICH
A petite sandwich shop run by Giannis and his family with an extensive menu or the option to make your own. Veikou 41; toguarantee.gr
TA KARAMANLIDIKA TOU FANI A traditional taverna serving the best of local cuisine. Doubling as a deli, the restaurant offers the best of Greek gastronomy: Greek salads, local meats and cheeses, mezze platters, meatballs, chickpea soups, grilled meats, yogurt with honey, and more. Evripidou 52; karamanlidika.gr
OUZERI TOU LAKI
A hidden tavern serving locally sourced fresh fish to Athenians. Elpidos 16; ouzeritoulaki.info
LITTLE TREE BOOKS AND COFFEE
A book shop and cafe that serves coffee, sandwiches, desserts, and wine with lots of sidewalk seating. Despite being close to the Acropolis, it's a quiet little place to sit and read or chat or people watch. The book shop stocks Greek and occasionally English titles. Kavalloti 2
LELOS
A quiet corner cafe on a shady pedestrian street with large windows. Try the homemade lemonade. Tripou 2
ARCHONTIKO CAFE
A traditional kafeneio (coffee shop) that acts as a neighborhood common space. People come to play cards or tavli, drink a coffee or a raki, ouzo, or tsipouro, and either people watch or have heated conversations (mostly political). A place where older men spend their mornings or afternoons. Unnamed Rd, Chlomatiana
TO KOUKI
In a pedestrian street full of cafes and bars, To Kouki is a good spot for a coffee or lunch. It's a relaxed and welcoming place with friendly service and good Greek food. Geor. Olimpiou 5-9
AVOCADO
As the name suggests, avocado is the main ingredient here, but the menu is diverse and seasonal. Order the “Go Green” juice to start. Nikis 30
KALYVAS SOUVLAKI
A family-run spot for the popular Greek meat snack. Dimitrakopoulou 91-93, G Olymbiou 10
AVLI
Walk down a narrow street in Psirri, and you will see a small door that opens into an old Athenian courtyard (avli) with a Cycladic touch.. The food traditional Greek taverna fare, including satisfying salads. The avli in and of itself is an attraction: you can close the door and leave busy Psirri behind. Ag. Dimitriou 12
OI THESSALOS
A simple place with tasty traditional Greek dishes, and occasional live performances. During the summer, they have tables outside on a terrace next to a church. Melenikou 2
CAFE AVISSINIA
An old bistro situated in a square full of antique shops. The food is delicious, authentic Greek recipes and carefully picked ingredients. From mid-September to mid-June there is live music on the weekends. Kinetou 7; cafeavissinia.net
CAFE NUMISMATIC MUSEUM
A garden surrounded by aromatic plants and reproductions of ancient statues in the courtyard entrance of the Nomismatiko Museum by architect Ernst Ziller. On Thursdays, enjoy a live jazz performance. 12 Leoforos Venizelou Eleftheriou; nummus.gr/en/refreshment-room-cafe
TAVERNA MOSCHOS VAGIA
The only view here is the open kitchen, run by the Moschos family offering fresh fish, vegetables, and french fries with a side of garlic puree. Leoforos Eirinis 19 & Elenis, Tavros
LOUIS CAFE
An all-day cafe serving mezze and local beer, ouzo or raki. Locals play tavli at nearby tables. Leonidou 87
VARESIS TAVERN
An old-school taverna run by a family serving traditional Greek cuisine. Theatrou 5
THE CRETAN
Right on Syntagma square, this very simple taverna sits in an unexpected location. After exiting the 9th-floor elevator of an office building, you are greeted by Mr Yiannis (from Crete) and his canteen-like taverna on a retro terrace with an excellent view. Classics include Greek salad, meatballs, sausages, omelets, and french fries accompanied by wine or raki. Karagiorgi Servias 2;
OIKONOMOU
A cozy spot in a corner building from 1918 (which is also the home of the owner Kostas), this restaurant offers home-cooked food like they used to do in the 30s. Simple, tasty, and traditional with ingredients that Kostas chooses himself from local vendors. We recommend the lamb. Kidantidon 32; tavernaoikonomou.gr
ARISTON BAKERY
Try the traditional kourou (dough) pies. Voulis 10
DEXAMENI OUZERI
Near the outskirts of Mount Lycabettus, the Dexameni square is one of the most beautiful spaces in central Athens. An outdoor cinema, a quasi abandoned playground, the outdoor ouzeri of the same name, and this small square sit on the ancient cistern. Dexameni Ouzeri was built in the early 1900s and was the favorite of many well-known Greek writers and poets at the time. It closed (like many businesses) for a few years at the beginning of the financial crisis of 2009 and reopened in 2012 under new management that respected the original concept and atmosphere. The tables are all outdoors and sit on a very wide and steep sidewalk that leads down to the square. People visit from early in the morning for coffee until late at night for food and drinks. The menu is based on the mezedes way of eating which means that its purpose is simply to accompany the alcohol. Nevertheless, all plates are delicious, traditional, sometimes with a modern twist, always satisfactory. It's crowded most of the time, especially on hot summer days as you can feel a slight breeze while drinking a cold beer. Also, it's a great place to observe others, especially people going up and down the slope or coming in and out of the cinema. The chic Kolonaki people are the best viewing in my opinion. Plateia Dexamenis
HYTRA The menu is based around traditional Greek herbs and spices in a sleek space with Acropolis views on the 6th floor of the Onassis Arts Center. 1, Petrou Kokkali STR; hytra.gr
BLACK DUCK GARDEN Laid-back café with garden seating serving brunch staples & local dishes, plus coffee & cocktails. 5, loannou Paparrigopoulou 7; blackduck.gr
AREA 51 A lively coffeehouse featuring brunch fare & cocktails on a terrace. 14 Naxou Street, Industrial Area
ERGON HOUSE A gourmet food hall at the bottom and rooftop restaurant with a terrace at the top, this is one of our favorite spots day or night. 23, Mitropoleos Street; ergonfoods.com/ergon-house-athens
SPONDI Spondi sits just off a small, bustling square behind the marble-built Panathenaic Stadium, and is a discreet, intimate place with two charming dining rooms and a terrace. Pirronos 5; spondi.gr/en
BALTHAZAR GARDEN A popular locale for cocktails, Mediterranean cuisine & a sushi bar in an 1897 mansion with gardens. Tsocha 27; balthazar.gr
CTC A stylish outdoor dining space with an 11 course ‘Voyage’ through Greece’s culinary history. Plateon 15; ctc-restaurant.com
ALERIA Stylish contemporary restaurant in a neoclassical villa & courtyard serving inventive Mediterranean cuisine. Meg. Alexandrou 57; aleria.gr
VEZENE Contemporary eatery offering wood-fired Greek regional plates & seafood plus a Sunday roast menu. Vrasida 11; vezene.gr
FUGA Set within the lush gardens of Athens Concert Hall, Fuga is a scenic and stylish eatery. Petrou Kokkali 1; fugarestaurant.gr
NIKKEI JARDIN A Peruvian restaurant in the heart of the Kolonaki neighborhood of Athens. Ksanthipou 10 & Dinokratous 1
FITA A seafood spot with minimalist decor from the chefs of Seychelles. Ntourm 1
MYSTIKOS KIPOS Meaning “Secret Garden,” this Greek taverna is set in a charming courtyard. Karaoli Dimitriou 21, Chalandri
LOKALI TERRACE A brick-lined eatery serving cocktails, coffee & standard Greek fare with laid-back ambiance. Sarri 44, Athina
NOAH Eclectic, bohemian indoor-outdoor eatery with brunch, cocktails & creative bites, plus live DJ sets. Πάρκο Ελευθερίας, Evzonon; noah-athens.gr
DIPORTO An old-school taverna without a menu. The ambiance is subpar, but the food makes up for it. Sokratous 9 &, Theatrou 2; greekgastronomyguide.gr/item/taverna-to-diporto-attiki
MARGARO A taverna with 5 things on the menu by the port, specializing in fresh fish. Leof. Chatzikiriakou 126; margaro-restaurant.com
PAPAIOANNOU RESTAURANT A chic seafood place on the water in Piraeus. Akti Koumoundourou 42, Pireas; papaioannou-restaurants.com
KANÁRIA Delicious small plates are the specialty here. Kanari 119, Moschato; takanaria.gr
O KOSTAS The best spot for souvlaki! Filellinon 7
BIRDMAN A delicious Greek Japanese restaurant, specializing in yakitori. Voulis 35; birdman.gr
L’ABREUVOIR An old-school chic french restaurant. Xenokratous 51
BARBOUNAKI A delicious upscale Greek food chain. Charitos 39B; barbounaki.gr
ARISTON The best place for a classic cheese pie near the Acropolis. Voulis 10
KORA BAKERY Serves up the best sourdough bread and viennoiseries. Panagiotou Anagnostopoulou 44; korabakery.com
ANANA A coffee shop in a Bauhaus building. Praxitelous 33; anana.coffee
ATHENS CENTRAL MARKET Stroll past seafood towers, giant cuts of meat, and locals doing their weekly shopping. Νο68 Βαρβακειος Αγορα
THE OLD TAVERNA OF PSARAS Traditional Greek food in 2 old stone mansions also offering a large, tree-shaded open terrace. Erotokritou &, Erechtheos 16; psaras-taverna.gr
ITHAKI Sophisticated venue in the Athens Riviera with a terrace & sea views specializing in Mediterranean & Asian fusion cuisine. Agias Filotheis 2; oldithaki.com
DRINK
TERAS A day-to-night bar with exhibitions, set in a courtyard. Theodoritou Vresthenis 45; teras-athens.gr
PALEO Located in an old warehouse in Piraeus, Giannis Kaimenakis created his vision of a hybrid wine store and restaurant with wines from Italy, Spain, France, and Greece, which can be paired with cheese and charcuterie. The perfect nightcap after gallery hopping. Polidefkous 39
HETEROCLITO A wine bar in the historical center of Athens, right on Mitropoleos Square. Fokionos 2; heteroclito.gr
BARRETT A bar on the border of the Monastiraki flea market and Psyri with different DJs every night, and a crowd composed of artists and musicians. There is also an art gallery upstairs with new exhibits every month or two. Last month the owners opened Syd Records, a music store, right next door. Protogenous 11; barrett-athens.gr
SIX D.O.G.S.
Standing for “six degrees of global separation,” Six D.O.G.S is a cultural entertainment center open day and night, inside and out. A pioneer on side streets near Monastiraki and Psyri, it has come to be a veritable hub for live music, DJs, and other performers, both local and international. In 2015, the founders launched Six D.O.G.S Records. The venue also coincidentally houses three resident actual dogs: Markos, Gilda, and Hawaii. Avramiotou 6-8
DRUPES AND DRIPS A wine bar immediately to the left of Takis Bakery, on a small one-block street. Managed by one of Takis’s sons, Artémis, this atmospheric spot serves fresh juices and Redd artisan coffee in the morning, transforming into a cicchetteria in the afternoon, serving charcuterie and cheese, organic Nissos beer from Tinos island, as well as the requisite Campari spritz for aperitivo purists. Zitrou 20
CANTINA SOCIAL
A tiny bar turned dance club. Leokoriou 8
PALIO RADIOFONO
Palio Radiofono (Old Radio) is a low-lit, well-stocked bar that plays jazz until very late into the night. The crowd is a mix of locals and tourists. Athanasiou Diakou 12
GALAXY BAR
An old-school classic bar hidden in a galleria in the center of the city. A place for spirits, quality music, and faithful aficionados. Stadiou 10
KOTAROU
Kottarou derives from the Greek word for chicken. Back in the day, Kota referred to a tavern that used to be a chicken coop. Today, it is a bit of an underground place, only open in the winter, where the light comes only from the candles. At a certain point in the night, musicians will play and the owners Giannis and Lenio will join in, singing or dancing. Αγίας Σοφίας 43 και, Didimotichou; kotarou.gr
IPITOU STREET
Every Athenian has been to the small Ipitou pedestrian street at least once. There are three bars worth visiting: Ipitou the Bar, Blue Bird and Kiki de Grece, but first start with a drink across the street at Oinoscent Wine Bar.
AU REVOIR
This is one of the oldest bars in Athens. The building, the decor, and (some) of the people have remained the same since 1957. The bar itself was designed by prominent modernist architect, Aristomenis Proveleggios, one of Pikionis' students and a close Le Corbusier collaborator. Dimly lit and furnished with small green sofas and classic cocktails. 28is Oktovriou 136
ROMANTSO
Romantso acts both as an incubator for start-up companies within the creative industry and as a cultural center, organizing and hosting events: exhibitions, concerts, workshops, parties. It’s a meeting spot for young artists and creative professionals. Anaxagora 3; romantso.gr
RAFIKI
Rafiki restaurant and bar sits in a corner shop front with very tall glass windows and doors on all sides. Simple and minimal with some mezes and raki. It gets very lively at night, especially, in Summer when they host glentia which means live music and dance nights with traditional music. Pellis 22
BATMAN
A go-to after-bar in Athens since the late 1980s; this minuscule bar started out as a hangout for musicians to have a drink after a gig and has evolved into a refuge for all nocturnal creatures. The music: Greek folk and rebetika songs from the 1960s to the 1990's selected by Batman (the owner) himself is the main ingredient that shapes this place. Sometimes, musicians will take up their instruments and play live and everyone will sing along. 117 43, Theodoritou Vresthenis 40
UPUPA EPOPS A bar and restaurant with a tavern and scenic outdoor courtyard with tiled flooring. Alkminis 7; upupaepopsthebar.gr
ARTS | CULTURE | ACTIVITIES
ACROPOLIS MUSEUM
Focused on the findings of the Acropolis, the museum is located only a few meters away from the Parthenon which is visible from all levels through glass walls. Visitors can speak with the museum’s archaeologist/hosts about the exhibition, the museum itself, and life in antiquity in relation to modern society. Guided tours are recommended, especially on Friday nights when it's less crowded. Visit the museum before the Parthenon for a better understanding of the monument and its history. Dionysiou Areopagitou 15; theacropolismuseum.gr
ACROPOLIS The Acropolis of Athens is an ancient citadel located on a rocky outcrop above the city of Athens and contains the remains of several ancient buildings of great architectural and historical significance, the most famous being the Parthenon. Arrive early to avoid the crowds. Athens 105 58, Greece
DESTE Deste Foundation, Centre for Contemporary Art is an arts foundation in Nea Ionia, a northern suburb of Athens, Greece. Housing the art collection of Greek businessman Dakis Joannou, it organizes exhibitions with the collection and commissions new work by emerging and established international contemporary artists. Filellinon 11, Nea Ionia
ETHNIKOS KIPOS NATIONAL GARDEN The National Garden is a public park in the center of Athens between the districts of Kolonaki and Pangrati, directly behind the Greek Parliament. Leof. Vasilisis Amalias 1
STAVROS NIARCHOS FOUNDATION
SNFCC is an impressive multifunctional arts, education, and entertainment complex. Home to the Greek National Opera and the Greek National Library this immense ‘park’ was designed by Renzo Piano and built over an abandoned seafront. From the roof, you can see the entire city from Piraeus and beyond while sitting in a garden of 200.000 square meters. Leof. Andrea Siggrou 364, Kallithea
NUMISMATIC MUSEUM The Numismatic Museum of Athens is one of the most important museums in Greece and it houses a collection of over 500,000 coins, medals, gems, weights, stamps and related artefacts from 1400BC to modern times. We especially love the charming courtyard garden in the front. Ιλίου Μέλαθρον, Ελ. Βενιζέλου, Panepistimiou 12
VARVAKIOS MARKET & AVISSINIAS SQUARE If you're looking to immerse yourself in authentic Athenian culture, look no further than a casual stroll through the Varvakios market. The market is a favorite among locals and offers the best of local produce: fruits and veggies, meats, fresh fish, spices. A little further, the Avissinias square flea market offers vintage knick-knacks and more, from ceramics and wood furniture to leather goods. Νο68 Βαρβακειος Αγορα, Athina
NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM
The largest archaeological museum in Greece and one of the most important museums in the world devoted to ancient Greek art, from prehistory to late antiquity. In the south wing, you’ll find the Epigraphical Museum of Athens. The coffee shop in its yard is the perfect place for a break. 28is Oktovriou 44, Athina; namuseum.gr
MIKROKOSMOS
This hidden movie theatre is the last of its kind in Koukaki. Tickets start from 5€ and the screening schedule consists of independent and cult films from Greece. Check the schedule or take a leap of faith in line with their catchphrase: "We don't just show movies, we suggest movies.” Leof. Andrea Siggrou 106; mikrokosmoscinema.gr
MISTER 100
This old-school billiard spot (named after legendary Belgian billiards player Raymond Ceulemans) has been a Koukaki reference since 1995. It has American pool and French billiard tables and (mostly) elderly men playing. It serves cheap drinks and basic snacks. Πλατεία Ηρώων Πολυτεχνείου 6 17674
ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM OF PIRAEUS Often overlooked, even by locals, perhaps because they think that once you've visited the National Museum in Athens you've seen everything there is to see in Piraeus. Wrong: the bronze antiquities collection here is phenomenal. Char. Trikoupi 31, Pireas; piraeus.org/museum
MUNICIPAL ART GALLERY
The gallery's collections feature visual works of over 3,000 artists that have contributed to the formation of 20th-century modern Greek art. The building itself is a piece of art (designed by Christian Hansen in 1833). Besides the permanent collection, the gallery presents exhibitions and other activities such as free guided tours of sites, with themes such as ‘Old Neighbourhoods of Athens’. After you visit, hang around the square and visit the Blue Parrot for a drink or wonderful Seychelles for food. Λεωνιδίου & Μυλλέρου Μεταξουργείο Τ.Κ, 104 36; athensmuseums.net/museum
GREEK FILM ARCHIVE
The Film Archive sits in a post-World War II building that used to house a car repair shop with little architectural value on its own but had a certain sentimental and historical value due to the open-air movie theatre Lais, which operated on its rooftop from 1948 to 1975. Today, the building has two small movie theatres, one open-air, an exhibition area and an archive room. Very interesting screenings of the most emblematic creators, homages, and festivals. Also, the place feels very cozy and the staff is friendly and kind. Meg. Alexandrou 136; tainiothiki.gr
TV CONTROL CENTER
TV Control, or KET in Greek, is a venue with good live music performances, art, theatre, readings, and video projections. Kiprou 91Α; polychorosket.gr
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART (EMST) Recently reopened in the old FIX Brewery building, Athens first brewery built in 1957, it symbolizes a new chapter of modernity in the city’s long, rich artistic history. Designed by famous architect Takis Zenetos, one of the major creators of post-war modernism in Greece. The permanent collection consists of Greek and international contemporary artworks, growing and evolving since 2016. Λεωφ. Καλλιρρόης και Αμβρ. Φραντζή (πρώην εργοστάσιο, Leof. Andrea Siggrou 51-53; emst.gr
LALAOUNIS JEWELRY MUSEUM A decorative arts haven tucked away in a mansion, showcases 40 years of ornate baubles crafted by Lalaounis, the celebrated Greek goldsmith. His pieces, which have adorned many a glamorous celebrity through the decades, double as artifacts with their thoughtful, intricate references to nature and bygone civilizations. Kallisperi 12; lalaounis-jewelrymuseum.gr
PANATHENAIC STADIUM The Panathenaic Stadium was re-built for the first modern Olympics in Athens in 1896. It's made entirely of white marble and is one of the oldest stadiums in the world. Leof. Vasileos Konstantinou; panathenaicstadium.gr
CINE THISSION It doesn’t get more authentic and picturesque than watching a film at this open-air theater in the lively neoclassical neighborhood of Thissio, next to the Ancient Agora. In operation since 1935, it’s one of the oldest outdoor cinema in Athens. If by chance you don’t like the movie, you will be placated by the view of the Acropolis. Try the owners’ special drinks and snacks—they are homemade, a detail that sets them apart from other outdoor cinemas in town. Apostolou Pavlou 7; cine-thisio.gr
ODEON OF HERODES ATTICUS The Odeon of Herodes Atticus is a stone Roman theater structure located on the southwest slope of the Acropolis of Athens, Greece completed in 161 AD and then renovated in 1950. Dionysiou Areopagitou; odysseus.culture.gr
GHIKA GALLERY The building at 3 Kriezotou Street belonged to the artist Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghika who donated it to the Benaki Museum during his lifetime. The original structure, commissioned by Alexander Hadjikyriakos around 1932, comprised a ground floor and five upper floors. Designed by the architect Kostas Kitsikis, a professor at the National Technical University of Athens (NTUA), it was a typical example of an interwar apartment block. Kriezotou 3; benaki.org
KERAMEIKOS CEMETERY Kerameikos also known by its Latinized form Ceramicus, is a beautiful and lesser-visited site in Athens located to the northwest of the Acropolis. Ermou 148; odysseus.culture.gr
AGIOS GEORGIOS CHURCH At the top of Lycabettus Hill is the church of Agios Georgios (St. George.) A stunning whitewashed church, which dates back to 1870. Athens 114 71, Greece
FIRST CEMETERY OF ATHENS The official cemetery of the City of Athens and the first to be built. It opened in 1837 and soon became a prestigious cemetery for Greeks and foreigners. The cemetery is located behind the Temple of Olympian Zeus and the Panathinaiko Stadium in central Athens. XP7P+CF, Logginou 3; cem.cityofathens.gr/1st_cemetery
LITTLE METROPOLIS CHURCH The Little Metropolis, formally the Church of St. Eleutherios or Panagia Gorgoepikoos, is a Byzantine church located at the Mitropoleos square, next to the Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens. Plateía Mitropóleos 8
ROMAN AGORA The Roman Agora was the ancient public square raised during the Roman period in Athens. It was one of the main meeting points in the city and it once housed the central market. Polignotou 3; odysseus.culture.gr
ANAFIOTIKA A charming neighborhood with cobblestone streets and restaurants lining the streets, each with a terrace overlooking the Acropolis.
HELLENIC PARLIAMENT The Hellenic Parliament, also known as the Parliament of the Hellenes or Greek Parliament, is the Parliament of Greece, located in the Old Royal Palace, overlooking Syntagma Square in Athens. Μέγαρο, Voulis; hellenicparliament.gr
BENIZELOS MANSION The house of the Benizelos family, constructed most likely in the first half of the 18th century, is the last surviving konaki in Athens and one of the few examples of such mansions preserved in southern Greece. Adrianou 96; archontiko-mpenizelon.gr/en/the-benizelos-mansion
CYCLADIC MUSEUM
The largest and most complete collections of Cycladic antiquities. An incredible collection of Cycladic art (and hence history), of Cypriot art, and of Ancient Greek artworks. The main exhibition changes regularly. Exit via the gift shop, which is stocked with objects made by contemporary artists inspired by the museum. Neofitou Douka 4; cycladic.gr
CARWAN GALLERY A leading international contemporary design gallery with a focus on promoting and producing cutting-edge collectible design from the Near East region and beyond. After nearly a decade of activities in Beirut, Lebanon and its participation in more than 50 international exhibitions, the gallery has relocated in Athens, Greece in September 2020 in the area of the port of Piraeus. Polidefkous 39; carwan-gallery.com
GAGOSIAN GALLERY A global gallery specializing in modern and contemporary art with eighteen locations, including Athens. 22, Anapiron Polemou Street; gagosian.com/locations/athens-anapiron-polemou-street
THE BREEDER GALLERY
The avant-garde gallery of Athens. The owners, Georges and Stathis have an eye for young talent. Iasonos 45; thebreedersystem.com
HOT WHEELS
Hugo Wheeler presents the work of emerging artists (local and not) in an art space they've curated in the same building as their own home that they share with some good friends. Just opposite the University and the National Archeological Museum and near Omonoia and Exarcheia neighborhoods, this typical neo-classical Athenian building seems like the right place to present what's going on in the arts. hosted at TOSITSA3, Tositsa 3; hotwheelsgallery.eu
REBECCA CAMHI GALLERY
For almost 20 years, this gallery has been a point of reference for contemporary art. It often hosts events such as lectures, workshops, book launches and the like. Rebecca is an icon in Athens. Leonidou 9; rebeccacamhi.com
ATHENS CONSERVATOIRE
The Athens Conservatoire, Odeion Athinon, is the oldest educational institution for the performing arts in modern Greece, founded as a non-profit organization in 1871. Some of Greece’s most renowned musical personalities graduated from here including Nikos Skalkottas, Maria Callas, Mikis Theodorakis and Dimitris Sgouros. The iconic Bauhaus building, designed by Ioannis Despotopoulos, is a cultural hub for contemporary arts and cultural events. Ρηγίλλης &, Vasileos Georgiou B 17-19; athensconservatoire.gr
ONASSIS CULTURAL CENTER
One of the most interesting contemporary buildings with spaces for theatre and music performances, dance, and exhibitions. The curators invite artists from different countries and cultures from around the world and at the same time they support and promote Greek artists. On the rooftop stands, the Michelin starred Hytra restaurant. Leof. Andrea Siggrou 107; onassis.org
DORA STRATOU DANCE
Greek folk dance classes for all levels and all ages. Also, free lectures on dance, dance music, dance costumes, ethnography. If you don't want to learn the dances, you can just pop in and look at the costumes. Athens 117 41; grdance.org
SHOP
MONASTIRAKI MARKET The Monastiraki flea market is the place to be on Sunday to buy antiques with local Athenians. While Athens’ Monastiraki Flea Market is—in theory—open seven days a week, it’s only really worth your time on Sunday mornings, when jewelry makers and artisans set up their stalls for the day. Avoid the main strip on Ifestou, where you’ll likely find yourself sifting through souvenir junk rather than one-of-a-kind antiques, and explore the side streets for trinkets sold by palaiopoleia (second-hand dealers). Ifestou
ANCIENT GREEK SANDALS Ancient Greek Sandals are handmade locally by skilled craftsmen using traditional techniques that have existed for centuries. A raw, yet feminine aesthetic distinguishes this new sandal brand. The chemical-free, natural tan leather ages beautifully with time and wear. The collection is inspired by ancient Greek Gods and myths, pottery, jewelry, and sculpture. 3-5 Kolokotroni, Voulis &, 1st Floor; ancient-greek-sandals.com
NAXOS APOTHECARY Naxos brings together Homeopathy and Phytotherapy with the uniqueness of Greek herbs and natural cosmetics. Homeopathy remedies, tailor-made natural skincare solutions, Greek products of high nutritional value, as well as personalized food supplements are all part of the products and services offered in this one-of-its-kind combination of a herbal pharmacy and a concept store, right at the heart of the city. The island of Naxos becomes a point of reference as various elements within the space ‘narrate’ the culture and history of the Cycladic island. Κολοκοτρώνη 3-5 &, Voulis; ny.thenaxosapothecary.com
DANNY SHOP Our favorite shoe boutique to shop for Castaner espadrilles from Spain and Venetian velvet slippers. Iraklitou 17
THE TREASURE BOX Truly a treasure box of vintage dresses and jeans, something for everyone. treasurehouse.gr
KING KONG VINTAGE A second-floor studio stocked with curated vintage clothes in Plaka. Kolokotroni 62; kingkongathensvintage.gr
FREE SHOP Free Shop is a multi-brand boutique that has remained at the epicenter of the Greek fashion retail scene since its founding in 1970. Skoufa 17; freeshop.gr
GREECE IS FOR LOVERS Appropriately conceived at the foot of the Acropolis hill and operational for a decade, Greece Is for Lovers proposes attractive contemporary products with a signature aesthetic that combines kitsch and luxe. Its pieces—many of them one-offs or in limited edition—are designed by Thanos Karampatsos and Christina Kotsilelou, and handmade by local craftsmen. greeceisforlovers.com
TSANTILIS GALLERY An antique store located in the heart of Athens serving collectors, designers, and private museums. Sekeri 5; artmodern.gr
ATTICA A large department store in the heart of Plaka with local Greek and international designers. Panepistimiou 9; atticadps.gr
ZEUS & DIONE ZEUS+DIONE is a popular Greek contemporary brand that was conceived as a creative nod to the rich Hellenic tradition, seen from a fresh and contemporary standpoint with references to mythology. Voukourestiou 6; zeusndione.com
FORGET ME NOT This gift shop in the heart of Pláka features products and designs from more than 150 Greek brands and artists, architects, and graphic designers. Highlights include: Ancient Greek Sandals, lifestyle brand Zeus + Dione, Zylo handcrafted wooden eyewear, and new all-natural beard grooming products by Hommer. Adrianou 100; forgetmenotathens.gr
DAPHNIS AND CHLOE
Daphnis and Chloe founder Evangelia Koutsovoulou works with scientists to analyze rare cultivars and test for essential oils, resulting in some of the finest-quality culinary Mediterranean herbs and spices on the market today. Mandrokleous 19; daphnisandchloe.com
LEMONI BOOKSHOP
A tiny bookshop in Thissio where you can sit outside and read on the terrace. 118 51, Iraklidon 22; lemoni.gr/bookshop
POLITEIA BOOKSHOP
Politeia is Plato's most known title, referred to in English as The Republic. This is one of the oldest bookstores in Athens, located near the university. Asklipiou 1-3; politeianet.gr
IOANNA KOURBELA
Ioanna's minimalist view on fashion has the Greek spirit at its core. Charming clothing selection. Adrianou 109; kourbela.com
MELISSINOS ART
Third generation sandal-makers, the Melissinos family continue to combine art and craft with practicality in this well-known shoe shop. If you want to buy Greek sandals, this is the classic choice. Keep in mind that if you need custom sandals, it may take some time. Tzireon 16; melissinos-art.com
ELLINIKA KALOUDIA Stamatis stocks his tempting grocery with local treats like fig spread, herbal Oreánthi teas, and sea salt from the island of Kythira that drum up nostalgia for all those memorable vacation meals when platters of stuffed grape leaves were fixtures at the lunch table. Chatzichristou 8; ellinikakaloudia.gr
OLGIANNA MELISSINOS SANDALS Handcrafted leather sandals, belts, bags & accessories since 1920. Normanou 7; melissinos-sandals.gr
SPA
GRANDE BRETAGNE An indoor pool, amethyst grotto, sauna, steam room, laconium, ice fountain, mud chamber, and more are found at the Spa at the Hotel Grande Bretagne. 1 Vasileos Georgiou A, Syntagma Square Str; marriott.com/en-us/hotels/athlc-hotel-grande-bretagne-a-luxury-collection-hotel-athens
ASTIR PALACE, FOUR SEASONS Inspired by the teachings of Hippocrates, the Spa highlights seasonal rituals, ancient remedies and timeless wellness secrets. Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni; fourseasons.com/athens
YOGA
Athens Zen Centre teaches Yoga Satyananda. English speaking instructors. Very well located. Great garden on top. They also teach Japanese martial arts. LU Creative Studio teaches Hatha yoga. English speaking instructors. In a beautiful neoclassical building in Thissio, they offer more than yoga classes as they organize many different workshops as well. Lynn Roulo, an American Kundalini Yoga instructor living in Athens. You should try to book for the night class on the Acropolis roof deck, an all-level class by donation that overlooks the Parthenon.
AL HAMMAM
This hammam sits in the quieter part of the very busy and touristic Plaka neighborhood. Here you can steam and wash in the communal bathhouse and have a massage or treatment solo or in pairs. Tripodon 16; alhammam.gr
DAY & WEEKEND TRIPS
HYDRA Hydra is an easy two-hour ferry from the port of Piraeus in Athens. You will arrive to the marble port beneath the bell tower and instantly be on island time. There are no cars allowed on the islands so a donkey or horse is at your service. We recommend staying at the Four Seasons, Leto, Hydra Hotel, Orloff Hotel, Cotomattae, or Hydroussa Hotel. Visit Dakis Joannou’s Deste Contemporary Art Foundation (perhaps you will see his yacht painted by Jeff Koons in the harbor too). Catch sunset from the terrace of Hydronetta, Spilia,Techne, Sunset Bar or the classic Pirate Bar before dinner at Omilos. Swim at Castello or charter a boat to a private beach to snorkel or dive amongst the shipwrecks.
GLYFADA Fashionable Glyfada is known for sandy Glyfada Beach and for the domed St. Constantine and Helen Orthodox Cathedral, set on a tree-lined square overlooking the Aegean Sea south of Athens. International designers, local boutiques, jewelry stores and galleries add to a chic beachside vibe. Clustered around the waterfront boulevard are seafood tavernas, fine dining restaurants and stylish late-night cocktail bars.